m:mm: 


'i     >!■    ■;■    ■ 


A 'Trip  fo  The 
Hawaiian  Island 

WITH  THE 
PRESS  CONGRESS  OF  THE  WORLD 


By  Orville  Elder 


\ 


t^^^jL^r^ 


KAMEHAMEHA    1. — IN    STONE,    HONOLULU 

He  consolidated  the  several  tribes  of  the  Hawaiian  Island 
into  one  kingdom. 

(At    the   foot   of   the   statue  a  faithful    worshiper.) 


A  TRIP 


TO   THE 


Hawaiian  Islands 

WITH  THE 

PRESS  CONGRESS  OF  THE  WORLD 


BY 
ORVILLE  ELDER 


PUBLISHED  BY 

The  Evening  Journal 

WASHINGTON,  IOWA 


COPYRIGHT    1922 
ELDER.    SHANNON   &   CO. 


G 


TO 

Josephine  and  Dave 

Who  Stayed  at  Home  While  I  Wandered 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Letter     1 — On  the  Way  to  Hawaii 15 

Letter     2 — Rolling   Through    Kansas 18 

Letter     3 — In   New    Mexico 21 

Letter     4 — At    Albuquerque    24 

Letter     5 — 'More  About  Albuquerque 27 

Letter     6 — At  the  Grand  Canyon 31 

Letter     7 — Down  Bright  Angel  Trial 35 

Letter    8 — Along  the  Way 44 

Letter     9 — A  Few  Hours  in  Frisco 48 

Letter  10 — At    Sea 53 

Letter  11 — Peggy    Transfers 57 

Letter  12 — The    Matsonia 63 

Letter  13 — Water,  Water  Everywhere 69 

Letter  14 — Drawing  Near  to  Land 73 

Letter  15 — On   Land  Again 76 

Letter  16 — The  First  Day  on  Shore 81 

Letter  17 — The  First  Day  on  Shore   (Continued) 87 

Letter  18 — First  Session  of  Congress 92 

Letter  19 — Touring    the    Islands 9  8 

Letter  20 — An   Evening  at   Hilo ' 104 

Letter  21 — Along  the  Coast  of  Hawaii 110 

Letter  22 — The  Volcano   Kilauea 113 

Letter  23 — The  Volcano  Kilauea    (Continuedi 118 

Letter  24 — -The  Volcano  Kilauea    (Continued) 124 

Letter  25 — Volcanic    Pranks 132 

Letter  26 — Kilauea   in   Daylight 138 

Letter  27 — Mr.   Kawasaki   Talks 143 

Letter  28 — The  House  by  the  Sun 150 

Letter  29 — The  World's   Press   Congress 161 

Letter  30 — Seventeen  Varieties 169 

Letter  31 — The    Leprosarium    174 

Letter  32 — Our    Hawaiian    Army 184 

Letter  33 — A   Beautiful    Temple 190 

Letter  34 — A  Visit  to  Pearl  Harbor 198 

Letter  35 — A  Friend  at  Court 207 

Letter  36 — The   Plantations   and    Old    Hawaii 213 

Letter  37 — A  Rotary  Meeting 220 

Letter  38 — "The   Yellow   Jacket" 227 

Letter  39 — Incidentals    234 

Letter  40 — The   Maui    Sail^ 242 

Letter  41 — A    New   World 249 

Letter  42 — On  Land  Again 259 

At   Home 266 

Delegates  and  Guests — Press  Congress  of  World 268 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Frontispiece — Kamehameha    I 4 

Grand  Canyon.  Colorado  River 37 

Down    Bright  Angel  Trail 41 

Indian    Woman    Weaving    Blanket 45 

"Peggy"     58 

The    Matsonia 65 

Walter  Williams 91 

Group    on    Matsonia 99 

A  Hilo  Beauty 105 

Halemaumau 114 

On  Edge  of  Halemaumau 119 

"Peggy"  and  "Bill" 126 

James    Wright    Brown 165 

Swimming  at  Waikiki   Beach 168 

Some  Shady  Nook 192 

A  Beautiful  Temple 195 

Native  Hawaiian  Boys 211 

A   Pineapple   Field 214 

Hula  Hula  Dancers 217 

Gov.  Wallace  R.  Farrington 225 

Cal.  and  Mrs.  Edward  F.  Lawson 238 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Goldthwaite 244 

"Where  the  Tall  Corn  Grows" 246 

"After  the   Ball  W^as   Over" 258 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frank  C.  Edgecombe 264 


PREFACE 


Tliree  weeks  time  in  Hawaii  is  not  long- 
enough  for  one-  to  see  and  know  all  about 
Hawaii,  but  the  conditions  under  which  the 
writer  moved  while  there  made  it  possible  for 
him  to  see  a  great  deal  in  a  short  while.  The 
letters  which  comprise  this  little  volume  were 
written  on  train,  on  boat,  in  hotel  room,  or 
wherever  it  was  possible  to  find  footing  for  a 
small  portable  typewriter  and  pound  off  a  few 
lines.  They  are  published  in  this  compact  form, 
not  because  tliey  are  entitled  to  any  great  con- 
sideration from  the  reading  public,  but  because 
I  found  it  impossible  to  supply  the  demand  for 
exchange  copies,  of  our  paper — The  Evening 
Journal,  Washington,  Iowa — containing  the  let- 
ters. My  product  became  too  voluminous  for 
exchange  circulation.  I  desire  in  this  connec- 
tion to  acknowledge  the  very  great  debt  which, 
in  common  with  the  many  other  World's  Press 
Congress  delegates,  I  owe  to  the  various  Hawai- 
ian committees  who  saw  to  it  that  there  was 
not  a  dull  moment  during  our  stay  on  the  is- 
lands. The  newspapers  of  Hawaii,  the  various 
Commercial  and  Social  Organizations;  the  Chin- 
ese Society;  the  Japanese  publications  and  peo- 
ple; the  native  Hawaiians;  the  heads  of  the 
leading  industries  of  the  islands;  the  officials 
of  the  Hawaiian  territory,  of  the  cities  of  Hon- 


ohilu,  llilo,  Knliuliii,  ^\^•lial^l;l,  W'alluku,  IjU- 
liaina  and  llic  iiiultitiidc  of  oUkt  kindly  dis- 
]10S(m1  citizoiis  who  coiili-ibiitcMl  oi'  tlicii"  iiiiic 
aiul  tlicii"  sid)stan(*('  to  mak'c  us  ]];\\v  a  ^ood 
lime.  TlicN'  arc  all  i^'ood  follows;  lU'ver  to  l)e 
f org'otton ;  always  to  be  r('iiieml)ered  with  "grati- 
tude by  the  delegates  to  tlie  Press  Cono-ress  of 
the  AVorld.     Alolia! 

orvillp:  elder 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  15 


Li^rrTEH  I. 

On  the  Way  to  Hawaii 

Somewhere    in    Kansas,    September    30,    1921 

This  is  the  story  of  a  trip  to  the  World's 
Press  Congress,  to  be  held  in  Hawaii,  Oahu, 
Hawaii  territory,  October  16tli  to  21st.  The 
World's  Press  CongTess  is  an  international  as- 
sociation and  the  program  will  be  internation- 
al in  character.  In  the  seat  jnst  ahead  of  me  is 
a  gentleman  from  Athens,  Greece.  His  English 
is  rather  ])roken,  bnt  that  does  not  interfere 
with  his  appearing  like  a  very  intelligent  and 
highly  cnltnred  gentleman. 

We  left  Chicago  Thursday  evening,  the  29th, 
and  we  are  jnst  now  leaving  Kansas  City.  We 
are  traveling  in  a  special  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  train,  all  Pullman  cars,  with  diner, 
buffet  and  observation  cars  attached.  We  could 
ask  for  no  more  luxurious  accommodations  or 
more  genteel  personal  service.  And  the  "eats!" 
Well,  it's  just  the  same  as  if  Mr.  and  Mrs.  "Fred 
Harvey"  were  both  traveling  with  us  and  pre- 
siding over  the  table  themselves. 

We  will  not  stop  for  any  length  of  time  un- 
til we  reach  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado 
where  we  will  remain  for  a  day,  taking  in  as 
much  of  the  grandeur  of  that  scenic  wonder  as 
a  day  will  permit.  We  are  supposed  to  reach 
San  Francisco  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  October 
and  sail  at  about  4  p.  m.  of  the  same  day. 

Our  ship  outgoing  w^ill  be  the  Matsonia,  an 
American  vessel  of  the  Matson  Navigation  Co. 
lines.  It  will  take  about  six  days  of  water  trav- 
el to  reach  Honolulu  and  a  few  days  will  be 
spent  there  before  the  Congress  program  is  pre- 


16  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

sented.  The  entertainment  featnres  of  the  trip 
include  a  tour  of  the  islands  with  exceptional 
advantages  for  seeing  the  interesting  sights  of 
this  distant  part  of  the  United  States. 

Yes,  along  with  its  other  conveniences  our 
train  carries  barber  shop  and  valet  service  for 
men  and  women.  Most  of  us  don't  know  what 
valet  service  is,  but  we're  not  confessing  our 
ignorance.  I  overheard  one  gentleman  say  that 
he  and  his  wife  had  brought  their  dress  clothes. 
He  thought  maybe  they  would  "dress"  for  din- 
ner on  the  boat.  Clearly  some  of  us  are  out  of 
our;  class,  but  that  need  not  interfere  with  our 
fun.  On  one  other  boat  trip  which  I  took  years 
ago  we  discovered  that  in  fact,  there  is  not  so 
much  dressing  for  dinner  as  there  is  "undress- 


in. 2'." 


I  have  found  but  two  other  Iowa  peo])le  on 
the  train  so  far.  They  are  Golthwaite  of  Boone 
and  Medary  of  Waukon.  Mr.  Medary  was  on 
the  trip  to  Panama  with  the  National  Editorial 
Association  a  few  years  ago.  At  that  time 
he  and  I  became  ac<|uainted.  It  lias  been  a  ])leas- 
ure  to  renew  that  ac<|uaintance.  However,  there 
is  little  formality  in  evidence  here.  Erstwhile 
strang(*rs  Avill  soon  be  long  time  ac(|uaintances, 
and  there  will  be  a  noticeable  relaxation  of  re- 
straint as  the  delegates  draw  nearer  and  nearer 
together  around  the  deck  railings  s]:)eaking  the 
interesting,  explosive  language  common  to  most 
land  lul)bers  on  their  first  voyage  away  out  up- 
on the  deep  blue  sea. 

Perhaps  a  word  more  about  the  Press  (  on- 
gress  will  not  be  out  of  place  at  this  time.  The 
ideal  of  the  Congress  is  "world  peace."  The 
great  ]mblishers  of  this  country  as  well  as  of 
other  countries  realize  that  peace  among  the 
newspapers  of  the  country  will  mean  world 
j-eace,  oi-  a  nearer  approach  to  it.     They  know 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  17 

that  the  Press,  in  a  large  way,  is  llie  audience 
that  st.iiuls  around  tlie  possible  belligerents  and 
"sieks"  them  on.  The  press  "stii's"  up,  or  it 
"(|uiets  down,"  ])acifies.  The  mendjers  of  this 
Congress  feel  that  the  furtherance  of  interna- 
tional journalistie  amity  will  do  mueli  toward 
making  world  i)eace  more  nearly  ]^ossible.  Our 
readers  will  agree  with  us  that  tlie  ideal  is  a 
good  one. 

I  feel  that  all  such  movements  as  this  World 
Press  Congress  tend  to  make  our  world  a  bet- 
ter woi'ld.  We  have  yet  a  great  deal  of  our 
aboriginal  savagery  to  get  out  of  our  systems 
before  we  will  anyways  nearly  be  fit  for  para- 
dise. These  efforts  to  establish  an  understand- 
ing among  the  nations  of  the  world  is  a  right 
direction  movement. 

I  have  just  taken  a  moment  to  speak  to  our 
Grreek  friend  in  the  seat  ahead.  His  name  is 
Coutoui)is,  and  he  is  the  publisher  of  the  "Nea 
Ewas,"  (New  Greece),  Athens.  He  left  Greece 
in  Julv  and  he  goes  clear  around  on  his  way 
home,  via  Japan,  China,  India,  Egypt,  etc.  He 
is  one  of  the  speakers  at  the  Congress  and  we 
look  for  some  "good  gravy"  from  Greece. 


18  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  II. 
Rolling-  Through  Kansas 

still    in   Kansas,    September   30,    1921 

Passing  through  Topeka,  Kansas,  Gov. 
Henry  Allen  was  clown  to  the  train  to  see  Mrs. 
Allen  off  with  the  delegates  to  the  Congress. 
Henry,  like  Andy  Gump,  will  now  have  the  op- 
])ortnnity  to  do  as  he  pleases  for  a  few  days. 
Governor  Allen  has  too  nineh  business  on  hands 
to  go  on  the  trip.  He  is  a  i)ublislier  though  and 
as  such  could  easily  qualify  for  the  journey. 
Since  he  can't  go,  he's  sending  the  "missus," 
which  is  at  least  the  next  best  thing,  if  not  the 
best. 

Speaking  of  the  governor  makes  one  think 
of  his  Industrial  Court  plan,  an  honest  effort  to 
get  justice  for  both  capital  and  labor  without 
disturbing  that  more  important  justice  to  the 
general  public.  This  Industrial  Court  arrange- 
ment in  iKansas  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being 
in  ill  favor  at  times  with  both  labor  and  ca]jital, 
with  some  of  both  industrial  divisions  always 
grouchv  over  the  alleged  interference  of  the  In- 
dustrial Court  with  their  liberties. 

At  present  Alexander  Howat,  president  of 
the  Kansas  Miners  organization  is  under  sen- 
tence to  jail  for  defying  the  Industrial  Court 
order  and  calling  the  miners  to  strike.  He  says 
he  is  going  to  go  to  jail  and  stay  there  until  the 
Industrial  Court  law  is  taken  off  the  statute 
books  of  Kansas.  When  the  ]iower  to  call 
strikes  is  taken  away  from  Alexander  there 
isn't  much  left  for  him  to  do. 

Gov.  Allen  states  that  there  are  some  $50,- 
000,000.00  a  year  paid  out  in  salaries  to  such 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  19 


iiu'ii  as  llowat,  and  lie  is  not  sui'itriscd  that  tliey 
liate  to  see  tlieir  ,iol)s  jeopardized.  But,  tlie  tie 
ii|»  of  business  which  causes  the  great  mass  of 
tile  ])eo|)le  to  suffer  princii)ally,  while  a  small 
perceuta<;e  of  the  i)eople  re]U'eseuted  by  the  par- 
ticular owners  and  lal)orers  affected  are  quar- 
leiini;-,  is  a  public  menace,  uufair  in  every  way 
to  the  majority,  which  should  be  considered 
first  and  so  this  Industrial  Court  bars  strikes 
and  lockouts  and  forces  the  disputants  into 
court  for  the  settlement  of  their  differences. 

In  theory  the  Industrial  Court  idea  is  cer- 
tainly rif^ht.  Such  dis|)utes  as  it  seeks  to  settle 
are  disputes  that  ought  to  be  settled  by  peace- 
a))le  means  without  a  general  disturbance  of 
business  and  without  people  suffering.  That's 
what  courts  are  for  and  the  courts  are  our  final 
resort;  if  they  fail,  we  might  just  as  well  shut 
up  sho}i.  Some  such  system  as  that  devised  by 
Governor  Allen  must  eventually  be  put  into  o]> 
eration  in  this  country  if  we  are  to  retain  any 
semblance  of  industrial  order  permanently. 

Althougii  it  is  persistently  asserted  that  the 
miners  have  in  almost  all  instances  been  the 
beneficiaries  in  the  Industrial  Court  decisions 
yet  it  is  still  the  fact  that  they  fight  the  law, 
encouraged  by  such  leaders  as  Howat,  who  can 
very  easily  find  plenty  of  ammunition  with 
which  to  l)ombard  that  policy  which  threatens 
his  job  and  promises  the  eventual  elimination 
of  the  strike  as  a  means  of  forcing  a  surrender 
in  favor  of  the  striker.  Governor  Allen  is  em- 
phatically of  the  reasonable  opinion  that  any 
system  of  industrial  disordei-  that  permits  the 
health,  safety  and  comfort  of  the  many  to  be 
deliberately  disturbed  by  the  few  is  a  wrong- 
system  and  he  insists  upon  court  settlement.  I^p 
to  date  he  has  been  able  to  get  by  witli  it,  but 
he  has  a  fight  on  his  hands. 


20  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

This  is  evening'  of  tlie  first  day  out.  All  day 
we  have  been  riiniiiiig  through  Kansas.  Now 
it  is  western  Kansas  with  its  oceans  of  great 
flat  fields,  from  which  splendid  crops  have  l)een 
raised  this  year.  As  an  agricultnral  state, 
though,  Kansas  has  felt  the  sting  of  low  prices 
for  farm  i)rodncts  even  as  we  have  felt  them. 
Talking  with  a  Kansas  man  this  afternoon  he 
led  me  to  believe  that  the  people  of  Kansas  have 
had  just  about  the  same  experiences  that  we 
have  had.  They  have  suffered,  but  they  are 
not  dismayed.  As  this  Kansas  man  remarked: 
"We  always  have  to  sober  u})  after  a  drunk," 
and  there  is  an  unfailing  reaction  as  a  part  of 
the  sobering  process.  The  wonder  is  that  the 
reaction  was  not  worse. 


WITH    WORLDS   PRESS  CONGRESS  21 


LF/rTER  III. 
In  New  Mexico 

En    Route,    October    1,    l'.t21 

All  of  yesterday,  Friday,  we  traveled  thru 
Kansas.  Some  time  last  ni.^lit  we  left  Kansas, 
crossed  a  corner  of  Colorado  and  now  we  are 
traveling-  tlirongli  the  monntains  of  New  Mex- 
ico. We  have  just  passed  thronoh  Glorieta,  the 
head  of  Glorieta  pass,  at  an  altitude  of  7421.  It 
is  Glorieta  in  name  only,  unless  there  are  cer- 
tain specially  glorious  features,  not  in  visual 
evidence,  that  take  precedence  over  the  artifi- 
cial structure  of  the  alleged  village. 

But,  the  mountains  are  interesting;  great 
oceans  of  mountains,  covered  with  scrubby 
pines,  some  high,  some  low,  some  thickly  wood- 
ed, some  sparsely  wooded.  Rocks  everywhere; 
thrown  about  carelessly.  Rocks  of  all  sizes,  as 
small  as  a  pigeon  egg,  as  large  as  a  box  car.  The 
grass  is  dry,  the  shrubbery  brown.  Goats  are 
the  only  domestic  animals  in  large  evidence.  An 
occasional  cow  in  sight;  a  few  burros;  a  scrawny 
horse,  cdobe  huts  here  and  there,  scattered  thru 
the  hills;  a  little  patch  of  corn  once  in  awhile, 
indicating  that  some  ambitious  Mexican  had 
sought  to  grow  a  little  forage  for  his  family  of 
domestics,  but  all  in  all  it  is  pretty  barren.  _  A 
fellow  traveler  voiced  the  opinion  this  morning 
that  ''this  certainly  is  God's  country — no  one 
else  would  want  it. " 

Be  that  as  it  may,  it  has  its  purpose  in  the 
world;  if  none  other,  it  serves  to  make  the  in- 
dividuals who  pass  this  way  feel  what  an  insig- 
nificant i)art  of  creation,  from  the  bulk  point  of 
view,  man  is.    There  seems  no  end  to  the  great 


22  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

sweeps  of  roek-strewii,  and  pine-decorated 
space.  They  must  have  been  brave  soldiers  in- 
deed who  first  penetrated  these  vastnesses. 

We  have,  once  in  a  while  found  tlie  old  Santa 
Fe  trail  running  along  by  our  side.  It  is  a  good 
tourist  road  they  say,  one  of  the  best  cross-con- 
tinent higliways.  There  are  a  great  many 
points  along  the  way,  though,  where  a  shortage 
of  gasoline  would  leave  an  autoist  in  an  embar- 
rassing predicament. 

Now  we  are  just  leaving  Apache  canyon. 
This,  our  little  guide  book  tells  us,  is  the  only 
place  on  the  railroad  where  it  cuts  through  the 
oldest  strata  of  the  Rockies;  and  this  little  pass 
was  the  scene  of  a  brave  effort  on  the  part  of 
the  Mexicans  to  stop  the  progress  of  the  Amer- 
ican army  in  its  invasion  of  Mexico  in  1846.  It 
is  said,  too,  that  one  of  the  most  important  of 
the  westei-n  battles  of  the  Civil  war  was  fought 
near  here. 

At  Lam\-  we  stopped  a  few  moments;  just 
long  enough  for  our  party  to  make  a  hasty  in- 
spection of  the  little  hotel  called  the  El  Ortiz. 
It  is  a  quaint  little  structure,  Mexican  style,  the 
beams  in  the  ceiling  taken  from  an  old  mission. 
The  floors  are  car})eted  with  rare  Indian  blan- 
kets; the  walls  hung  with  interesting  old  time 
]^a lutings,  the  subjects  being  Spanish  and  Mex- 
ican in  character.  There  is  a  beautiful  inner 
court  around  which  is  l)uilt  the  lodging  rooms 
of  the  hotel.  The  outer  walls  are  adobe.  The 
structure  is  artistically  scjuatty  and  in  the  whole 
it  functions  as  something  decidedly  different. 
Wandering  through  and  around  it,  one  begins 
to  feel  as  if  he  is  strangely  away  from  home. 
One  lady  remarked:  "And  yesterday  this  time 
we  were  in  Kansas  City — it  seems  a  thousand 


J ) 


years  ago. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  railwav  track — 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  23 

we  are  traveling'  slowly  now — we  see  an  ndobe 
house,  a  fodder  covered  barn,  all  one  story,  a 
scanty  ])atcli  of  corn,  the  fodder  shocked,  in 
small  tepees,  A  little  Mexican  boy  is  skinning 
the  cat  from  a  hitch  rack,  a  dark  skinned  wom- 
an watches  the  train  roll  by  without  acknowl- 
edging the  hand  wave  greetings  from  the  car 
windows;  a  prairie  dog  stands  rigid  sentinel  by 
the  side  of  his  happy  home.  As  far  beyond  as 
we  can  see  stretch  undulating  hills  rising  high- 
er and  higher  until  they  merge  into  a  great 
range  of  treeless  mountains — the  Great  Divide. 


24  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  IV. 
At  Albuquerque,  New  Mexico 

En    Route,    October    1,    1921 

We  spent  three  lioiirs  at  Albuquerque,  New 
Mex.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  western 
cities;  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  the  United 
States.  The  local  authorities  insist  that  civil- 
ization here  antedates  any  other  civilizations  in 
the  United  States.  We  take  no  issue  with  them; 
we  are  strangers  in  this  country. 

Why  not  be  nice  and  genteel,  always,  in  the 
presence  of  benefactors.  These  Albuquertiue 
people  fed  us  liberally  of  the  best  in  the  land 
and  took  us  about  through  their  interesting 
city.  It  was  not  for  us  to  deny  the  longevity 
which  they  ascribe  to  themselves  and  theirs.  We 
agreed  with  them  complacently,  and  admitted 
that  all  signs  indicate  that  Santa  Pe,  the  Al- 
buquerque rival  in  enterprising  claims  for  an- 
tiquity is  undoubtedly  a  pretender  only. 

Of  course  our  stay  in  Albuquerque  was  en- 
joyed. Stepping  off  the  train  with  friend  Med- 
ary  from  Waukon  we  were  greeted  by  a  tall, 
slender  gentleman  who  was  passing  out  Albu- 
querque Journals,  FREE  of  charge.  AVe  each 
took  one.  We  have  easily  acquired  the  habit 
of  taking  every  free  thing  offered  us  and  ask- 
ing no  questions.  They  are  scarce  enough  with- 
out entering  into  any  controversy  concerning 
them. 

*'Do  you  know  a  fellow  aroiind  here  by  the 
name  of  Carl  McGee?"  friend  Medary  asked  of 
the  liberal  man  with  the  arm  full  of  papers. 

"I  am  he,"  responded  the  ])hilanthropist, 
"and  von  are  Ed  Medarv." 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  25 


'I'lurc  >()ii  li;i\('  it!  We  attached  ourselves 
to  Kd's  rriciid  ;iiid  lie  ti'otted  us  around  all  over 
the  city  in  his  Cole  eight. 

All)U(|uer(|U('  is  a  "health  resort."  It  is  one 
of  tile  most  popuhir  resorts  for  tliose  who  are 
tlireatened  witli  tul)ereulosis  tliat  tliere  is  in 
the  country.  The  city  lies  liigli  and  dry.  There 
is  littU^  rainfall,  only  seven  inches  a  year,  and 
tliat  all  comes  in  July  and  August.  The  sani- 
tariums are  beautifully  located,  and  well  pat- 
ronized. There  are  several  thousand  peo])le 
here  for  their  health  all  the  while.  That  helps 
to  sup])oi"t  the  town.  Looking  over  the  sur- 
rounding country  one  wonders  if  the  city  has 
any  other  supjiorts. 

The  New  Mexico  state  university  is  here. 
The  buildings  are  built  in  typical  Mexican  style. 
A  new  dormitory  which  is  just  being  completed 
is  constructed  in  the  Pueblo  style  of  architec- 
ture. A  Metliodist  school  for  Indian  children  is 
an  interesting  structure  and  down  in  the  "old 
town"  we  found  the  adobe  houses  knit  closely 
together,  facing  narrow  streets  that  we  would 
call  narrow  alleys  in  our  Iowa  towns.  There  is 
not  much  about  the  external  appenrance  of 
these  buildings  to  recommend  them  to  us  as  de- 
sirable homes,  but  under  those  squat  roofs  and 
within  those  mud  covered  walls  the  romances 
and  tragedies  of  human  life  work  themselves 
out  just  as  effectually  as  they  do  in  the  palaces 
of  kings' and  queens.  There  is,  in  all  probabil- 
ity, just  as  much  real  ha])piness  in  a  New  Mexi- 
can Indian  home  as  there  is  in  any  other  aver- 
age home  in  the  world.  It's  all  in  getting  used 
to  it! 

At  the  door  of  the  Indian  store,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  depot  and  eating  house  at  Albu- 
querque, a  dozen  or  so  Indian  boys  and  girls, 
men  and  women  await  the  arrival  of  each  train 


26  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

and  its  brigade  of  tourists.  They  liave  Indian 
wares  to  sell,  little  clay  baskets,  bows  and  ar- 
rows, moccasins,  flint  arrow  heads,  etc.,  etc. 
These  Indians  are  attired  in  native  costmne.  Of 
course  they  make  an  interesting-  appearance. 
They  add  romance  and  atmosphere  to  the  j^lace. 

One  of  the  men  in  charge  of  the  store  i)oint- 
ed  out  to  me  several  of  the  Indian  girls  and  boys 
in  tliis  gron})  who  were  well  educated  in  Eng- 
lish, splendid  masters  of  our  tongue.  They  had 
been  sent  to  high  school,  some  to  college.  Com- 
ing home,  they  soon  went  back  to  their  shawls 
and  their  blankets,  their  red  ribbons,  and  their 
lazy  habits.  Indian  college  graduates  wrap 
their  l)lankets  about  them  and  sleep  every  night 
on  the  brick  i)latform  of  the  Santa  Fe  dei^ot  at 
Albuquerque.  Well  educated  Indian  girls  come 
every  day  to  the  trains  to  sell  their  little  trin- 
kets. They  sit  lazily  about  until  the  trains 
come.  They  never  ask  if  trains  are  late.  They 
sit  down  and  wait,  wait,  wait.  There  is  no  hur- 
ry. They  have  all  the  time  there  is.  Thev  take 
it.  ' 

These  educated  Indian  boys  and  girls  are  not 
disposed  to  be  very  communicative.  They  will 
not  talk  to  strangers,  excepting  in  an  effort  to 
sell  their  wares,  and  then  they  speak  few  w^ords 
and  brokenh^  They  know  THEY  are  curiosi- 
ties. Education  has  taught  them  that.  They 
resent  the  tourists'  attitude  and  apparently  hold 
our  civilization  and  its  foibles  in  contempt. 
They  cannot  get  away  from  the  inheritances  of 
centuries.  They  believe  in,  and  live,  the  sim- 
ple life.  To  them  much  of  civilization  is  vanity. 
In  that  intuition  thev  have  outwitted  the  world. 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  27 


LETTKI?   \'. 
More  About  Albuquerque 

En    Route,    October    3,    1921 

From  our  little  ftuide  book  we  read  that  Al- 
biKiuerquo  was  founded  in  1701,  by  Don  Pedro 
Rodriguez  y  Cubero.  It  is  not  probable  that 
there  are  any  i^eople  in  Washington,  Iowa,  now, 
who  remenilier  the  event  or  knew  Don  Pedro, 
but  local  authorities  in  Albuquerque  insist  that 
their  city  as  an  established  center  dates  back 
farther  than  1701,  in  fact,  back  prior  to  1605, 
the  year  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico,  claims  to  have 
been  born.  But,  as  we  said  in  our  former  com- 
ment on  this  controversy,  it  is  none  of  ours,  fight 
it  out  yourselves,  boys. 

The  Albuquerque  patriot  claims  that  the 
Pueblo  Indians  have  lived  in  Albuquerque  as  a 
village  for  many  centuries.  The  Pueblo  Indians 
they  explain  have  always  been  a  peaceably  in- 
clined, industrious  people,  cultivating  the  soil 
diligently  for  many,  many  hundreds  of  years. 
Their  deadly  enemies  were  the  Apache  and 
Navajo  Indians  who  didn't  believe  in  work  in 
their  tribes  if  they  could  profit  off  the  labors  of 
other  tribes.  So,  they  generally  waited  until 
fall,  wlien  the  crops  were  all  harvested,  then 
they  went  foraging  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Pueb- 
los. That  is,  they  fell  upon  the  Pueblos  and 
smote  them  hip  and  thigh  and  gathered  in  all 
the  spoils  they  could. 

Naturally  the  Pueblos  disliked  the  Apache- 
Navajo  system.  The  fall  visits  annoyed  them, 
perturbed  them,  kept  them  nervous  both  night 
and  day.  There  came  a  time  when  the  Span- 
iards moved  northward  from  old  Mexico  and 


28  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

with  them  the  Pueblos  made  terms.  They  traded 
their  favor  to  the  Spaniards  for  Spanish  help 
in  fii>hting  off  the  Apaches  and  Navajos.  That 
helped  some.  After  that  combination  the  Pueb- 
los lived  more  contentedly  and  the  Ai)ac]ies- 
Navajos  found  foraging  more  difficult.  On  the 
theory  that  Albuquerque  was  founded  by  the 
Pueblos,  long  before  our  friend  above  named  ar- 
rived, the  local  old  timer  of  Albuquerque  bases 
his  claim  of  greater  organized  antiquity  for  Al- 
buquerque than  for  Santa  Fe.  But,  as  we  have 
previously  observed,  what  is  that  to  you  and 
me  with  the  price  of  egg  sandwiches  the  same 
in  both  cities! 

And  talking  about  old  age!  In  that  wonder- 
ful museum  at  Albuquerque,  among  the  multi- 
tude of  relics,  modern  and  otlierwise,  there  are 
specimens  of  sections  from  the  petrified  trees 
found  in  a  number  of  places  in  Arizona.  The 
trees  are,  many  of  them,  "agatized."  Geol- 
ogists state  that  it  has  been  millions  of  years 
since  those  trees  were  growing  trees.  They  fell 
millions  of  years  ago,  were  umler  the  oceans 
many  tliousands  of  centuries  before  Adam  was 
born.  The  waters  moved  away  from  the  face  of 
the  earth  and  there  grew  over  these  long  inun- 
dated trees  a  soil  wliicli  covered  them  for  many 
more  thousands  of  years  and  then  there  came 
another  change  in  the  great  scheme  of  things 
and  the  covering  from  these  trees  of  so  long, 
long  ago  was  gradually  washed  and  scraped 
away  by  the  elements.  When  they  came  to  the 
light  of  day  again,  after  millions  of  years  in 
darkness,  they  were  petrified  to  the  very  heart, 
and  the  polished  face  of  these  tree  relics  shows 
it  as  a  most  beautiful  agate.  Here  is  age,  that 
is  age! 

There  is  an  old  Spanish  mission  church  that 
was  erected  in  1735  that  we  visited,  too,  but  we 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  29 

didn't  <^o  ill — it  wasn't  Sunday.  From  tlio  out- 
side, tliouf;-!!,  llic  antiquity  of  the  structure  was 
ai)i)arent  in  spots.  In  other  spots  it  looked  as 
if  it  had  been  modernized  some.  The  adobe 
homes  and  stores  give  out  an  unmistakable  at- 
mosi)liere  of  age,  down  in  the  "old  town,"  but 
up  in  the  heart  of  the  city  the  buildings  are 
modern  and  there  is  an  air  of  prosperity  about 
the  town,  the  basis  of  which  is,  however,  the 
constant  inflow  of  money  from  health  seekers 
and  tourists. 

In  Albu(iuerque,  too,  we  gained  some  inter- 
esting information  about  our  only  woman  "con- 
gressman," Miss  Alice  Robertson.  Mr.  McGee 
lived  for  several  years  in  Oklahoma  and  knew 
the  lady.  She  originally  went  to  Oklalioma  as 
a  Presbyterian  missionary  to  work  among  the 
Indians.  In  that  capacity  she  made  a  wide 
friendly  ac<piaintance.  During  the  Roosevelt 
administration  Miss  Robertson  was  on  the  side 
of  the  Indians  in  a  spirited  movement  led  by 
President  Roosevelt  to  see  that  the  Indian  gets 
fair  play.  President  Roosevelt  became  well  ac- 
(piainted  with  her  and  when  the  opportunity 
came  appointed  her  postmistress  of  Muskogee, 
disregarding  all  political  urgings. 

As  postmistress  she  became  more  widely 
known  and  was  as  widely  liked.  The  congress- 
ional district  in  which  she  lived  was  Democrat- 
ic, but  in  the  late  campaign  Miss  Robertson  won 
because  of  her  wide  favorable  acquaintance. 
She  never  ceased  her  missionary  work,  had 
raised  a  number  of  girls  from  girlhood,  |)utting 
them  through  school  and  the  story  of  her  use- 
fulness spread  over  the  district,  resulting  in  her 
election.  Her  unfailing  friendship  for  the  In- 
dians and  her  uncompromising  efforts  in  their 
behalf  always  endeared  her  to  the  whole  people. 
As  a  member  of  congress  she  evidences  those 


30  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


same  common  sense  traits  of  cliaracter  that  dis- 
tingiiislied  her  in  her  less  spectacnlar  earlier 
career. 


WITH    WOltl.D'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  31 


lkttf:r  VI. 

At  the  Grand  Canyon 

En    Route,    October    3,    1921 

This  is  Monday,  Oct.  the  ord.  We  passed 
tliroiio-li  Needles,  California,  early  this  morning, 
crossing  the  Colorado  river,  the  divide  between 
Arizona  and  California,  a  little  while  earlier. 
Now  we  are  ci-ossing  one  of  our  deserts;  it  is  a 
stretch  of  some  160  miles,  covered  with  sage 
brush,  where  there  is  any  covering  excepting 
sand.  The  anto  road,  the  Santa  Fe  trail,  still 
follows  ns  and  tonrists  can  be  seen  every  few 
moments  gliding  merrily  along.  The  road  is 
well  marked.  Just  a  little  while  ago  I  noticed 
a  big  sign  "2  Miles  to  Robert's  Garage."  Soon 
we  were  there,  and  another  sign  said  "Oasis 
Garage." 

Tlie  town  was  Ludlow  and  after  a  long 
stretch  of  sage  and  sand  scenery,  with  the  low 
mountains  in  the  distance,  it  was  a  relief  to  see 
the  pretty  little  "oasis."  Date  palms  were  in 
profusion,  as  were  other  semi-tropical  foliage 
and  shrubbery  with  which  I  am  not  familiar. 
A  number  of  tourist  cars  were  "gassing"  up 
l^reparatory  to  the  continuation  of  their  respec- 
tive trips,  east  or  west.  Auto  cross-continent 
travel  ]s  assuming  immense  proportions. 

At  Grand  Canyon  yesterday  they  gave  out 
the  information  that  during  the  vear  ending 
Oct.  1st,  1921,  6-1,000  tourists  had  visited  the 
canyon,  at  least  half  of  them  auto  tourists.  It 
seems  more  comfortable  on  the  train,  but,  auto 
touring  is  increasing,  so  some  must  like  it;  in 
fact  many  must  like  it.  We  exi)ect  to  be  in  San 
Francisco  tomorrow  morning,  sto])ping  at  Bak- 


V2,  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


ersville  this  evening'  for  a  conple  of  hours.  Bak- 
ersville  is  an  oil  town. 

We  spent  yesterday  at  the  Grand  Canyon. 
We  arrived  there  some  time  dnring  the  pre- 
ceding- night.  I  awoke  early  and  got  up.  Only 
the  gentleman  from  Greece  preceded  me.  He, 
too,  is  trying*  to  see  all  he  can  see.  We  asked 
the  ])or[er  about  the  location  of  the  canyon  and 
he  told  us  to  step  up  over  the  hill  and  look.  That 
we  did.  What  we  saw  there  is  no  use  of  trying 
to  describe.  The  Grand  Canyon  is  one  of  those 
indescribable  things.  It  was  never  intended 
to  be  described.  Attempted  descriptions  are 
hollow  things  at  best,  even  when  the  subjects 
are  small,  but  when  the  subject  is  ^uch  a  thing 
as  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado,  then 
words  lose  their  usefulness.  The  gentleman 
from  Greece  remarked  after  looking  a  little 
while:     "It's  a  miracle." 

We  started  walking  and  walked  to  the  left 
until  we  came  to  the  head  of  Bright  Angel  trail, 
down  which  those  of  us  who  dare  were  later  to 
make  the  journey  to  the  bottom  of  the  canyon. 
Then  we  turned  to  the  right  and  traveled  on 
and  on  around  the  rim  stepping  out  at  the  var- 
ious points  of  observation  to  get  the  "view." 
We  followed  the  narrow  trail  farther  and  farth- 
er and  farther,  forgetful  of  breakfast,  forgetful 
of  everything  excei)ting  the  desire  to  see  from 
still  another  point,  and  still  another. 

We  came  to  "Point  Grandeur" — later  we 
learned  that  this  was  one  of  the  most  splendid 
vantage  points  from  wdiich  to  view  the  vaiied 
beauties  of  the  canyon.  Clean  white  clouds  were 
deep  below  us  drifting  about  between  the  walls 
of  the  canyon  like  vagabond  balloons.  The  sun 
slowly  rising  tii)ped  the  distant  peaks  with  its 
magic  colorings;  rising  higher  it  glorified  the 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  33 


clouds  and  slowly  invaded  ilio  deeper  chasms 
of  tlie  canyon. 

In  the  presence  of  tliis  hu^Q,  nnspeakably 
beautiful  spectacle  one  can  do  little  more  than 
breathe  qnickly  and  think  strange  thoughts. 
This  is  a  canyon,  tribntaried  by  Inmdreds  of 
other  canyons,  each  one  of  the  smaller  can^^ons 
world  wonders  in  themselves.  This  is  a  canyon 
into  which  you  can  throw  all  the  other  canyons 
in  the  world  and  still  have  room  for  more  and 
more.  This  is  a  canyon  in  which  many  of  the 
big  mountains  of  the  world  might  be  forgetfully 
buried. 

"Nothing  like  it  anywhere  else  in  the 
world,"  said  the  gentleman  from  Greece.  We 
turned  back  and  arrived  at  the  hotel  just  in 
time  to  join  the  party  that  was  preparing  for 
the  descent  into  the  canyon.  We  had  had  no 
breakfast,  but  they  wouldn't  wait  for  us  to  eat. 
Only  twenty-one  of  our  party  of  nearly  a  hun- 
dred cared  to  "take  the  chance"  as  some  ex- 
pressed it  of  making  the  trip  down.  We  were 
of  the  twenty-one,  and  to  be  perfectly  fair  we 
should  state  that  a  fit  person  can  go  down  into 
the  Grand  Canyon  without  any  particular  dan- 
ger. But,  there  is  some  danger,  of  course,  as 
our  party  discovered.  One  lady  of  our  party, 
Mrs.  B.  C.  Dows,  of  Sioux  Falls,  South  Dakota, 
fell  from  her  mule,  when  about  600  feet  down 
the  trail  and  was  so  badly  hurt  that  help  had  to 
be  summoned  from  the  summit  to  cany  her 
back  to  the  hotel. 

Fortunately  the  accident  happened  at  one 
of  the  comparatively  safe  places.  There  are 
thousands  of  places  on  the  trail,  where,  had  she 
fallen,  she  would  have  tumbled,  and  tumbled  on 
down  and  down,  perhaps  a  hundred,  possibly  a 
thousand,  two  thousand  feet.  The  ten  people 
of  which  our  group  was  composed  were  ahead 


34  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


of  the  party  in  which  the  accident  occurred  so 
we  knew  nothing-  of  it  until  Ave  were  safely  back. 
Accidents  here  are  extremely  rare.  As  a 
friend  remarked,  though,  one  should  know  ones 
self  before  attempting  such  a  trip — a  seven 
mile  ride,  down  a  trail  so  narrow  as  three  feet 
at  some  points,  and  to  a  depth  of  4500  feet  be- 
low the  starting  point.  There  are  two  places 
on  the  trail  where  the  travelers  dismount  and 
lead  their  mules,  hugging  the  walls  particularly 
close  in  an  effort  to  go  down  deliberately.  The 
precipitate  descent  is  not  recommended  by 
those  familiar  with  the  geological  formation 
hereabouts. 


WITH    WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  35 


LETTER  VII. 
Down  Bright  Angel  Trail 

En  Route,   October  3,    1921 

The  evening  before  we  reached  the  Grand 
Canyon  I  had  a  conversation  with  the  brake- 
man  on  the  train  and  asked  him  about  the  can- 
yon. He  had  been  to  see  it  often.  ''I  go  just 
as  often  as  I  can,"  he  said.  "It  grows  on  a  fel- 
low. It  is  never  the  same  as  it  was  before. 
Whenever  I  meet  one  of  these  near  infidels  I 
want  to  take  him  over  to  the  canyon  and  say, 
'look  at  that.'  If  there's  anything  in  the  world 
that  will  make  a  fellow  believe  in  a  Creator, 
that's  it." 

Since  I  appeared  interested  the  brakeman 
talked  volubly  and  very  interestingly.  His  part- 
ing injunction  was:  "Don't  you  fail  to  go  down 
into  the  canyon.  You  don 't  know  what  it  is  un- 
less you  do  and  even  then  you  don 't  know  it  all. 
And  don 't  be  afraid.  Lots  of  them  will  tell  you 
it's  dangerous,  but  it  isn't  if  you  just  take  care 
— put  your  trust  in  the  mule.  He  don 't  want  to 
fall  any  more  than  you  do. ' ' 

I  asked  him  about  the  width  of  the  trail  and 
the  precipitous  drops:  "There  isn't  a  place  on 
the  trail  where  it's  less  than  three  feet  wide," 
he  said,  "and  the  longest  sheer  drop  on  the  trail 
is  not  more  than  sixty  feet  straight  down." 

That  was  encouraging.  I  learned  afterwards 
that  no  doubt  the  brakeman  was  correct  in  his 
figures.  The  trail  was  so  built  that  one  would 
not,  were  he  to  slip  off,  drop  more  than  sixty 
feet  straight  down  at  any  point.  At  hundreds 
of  other  points,  were  he  to  slip  off  the  trail,  he 
would  i)robably  not  drop  more  than  forty  or 


36  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDb 


fifty  feet  before  he  liit  some  outstanding;  rock 
and  bounced  off  to  another  and  another  on  down 
to  a  possible  depth  of  two  or  three  thousand 
feet. 

It  is  an  encouraging  thought  to  prospective 
travelers  of  the  Bright  Angel  trail  to  remember 
that  if  they  do  start  to  fall  from  the  trail 
into  the  canyon  they  will  not  fall  the  whole 
distance  without  interruption;  there  will  be 
slight  delays  in  the  descent.  An  occasional  fiftv 
ton  boulder  sticking  its  nose  a  few  feet  from 
the  face  of  the  precipice  will  greet  you  as  you 
go,  ])ermitting  you  to  bump  gently  against  it 
and  then  roll  on  another  couple  of  hundred 
rods  to  other  ])layful  boulders.  The  brakeman's 
recommendation  convinced  me  that  I  wanted  to 
see  it  all  and  so,  after  the  Greek  gentleman 
and  I  got  back  from  our  walk  we  secured  tick- 
ets and  were  soon  on  the  way  down,  mule  back. 
I  drew  a  splendidly  tempered  mule,  good  sized, 
considerate,  thoughtful,  patient,  deliberate,  un- 
afraid, Eeady  to  start  we  made  a  caravan  of 
eleven,  with  the  guide. 

Bright  Angel  trail  from  the  top  of  the  Grand 
Oanyon  walls  to  the  Colorado  river  below 
doesn't  tarry  unnecessarily  near  the  top.  It 
leads  right  down.  The  traveler  dojsn't  see  just 
where  he  is  going  but  he  is  on  the  way.  The 
path  is  a  zigzag  path  the  greater  part  of  the 
way  and  the  riders  ])usli  manfully  upon  the 
horns  of  the  saddles  to  prevent  ]ntching  over 
the  heads  of  their  mounts.  Always  the  path 
is  upon  the  ragged  edge  of  the  mountain,  the 
trail  some  places  being  built  into  the  rocks  or 
sus]iended  over  abrupt  w^alls  by  bridges  sup- 
ported from  steel  bars  drilled  into  the  stone 
walls. 

The  brakeman's  admonition  to  imt  my  trust 
in  tlie  mule  was  not  lost  on  me.     I  did  even  so, 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS 


37 


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38  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

iiUK'li  of  the  time  allowing  the  rein  to  hang 
loosely,  while  I  held  on  to  the  saddle  carefully 
and  leaned  toward  the  high  side. 

These  mules  seem  always  to  be  Imngry  and 
it  was  frequently  a  trifle  disconcerting  when 
mine  would  lean  out  and  reach  for  a  piece  of 
twig  hanging  over  the  down  side  of  the  trail. 
He  had  a  way,  as  did  all  the  other  mules,  of  ig- 
noring the  scenery  and  hunting  always  for  an 
opportunity  to  bite  something  that  hung  out 
over  a  precipice.  And  then  the  turns  at  the  so- 
called  corners!  The  mule  would  walk  right  on 
as  if  he  were  going  to  step  over  the  corner  out 
into  nothing,  and  then,  just  at  the  moment  when 
one  closes  his  eyes  and  begins  to  say,  "Now^  I 
lay  me,"  Mr.  Mule  gives  a  little  flip  of  his  body, 
balances  on  his  rear  feet  and  swings  around  into 
the  trail  in  nice  shape. 

The  reader  should  remember  at  all  times  that 
from  the  top  of  the  canyon  to  the  bottom,  over 
Bright  Angel  trail,  is  a  drop  of  4500  feet.  The 
trail  is  apparently  down  the  face  of  the  canyon. 
Of  course  it  isn't.  Looking  down  one  does  not 
see.  how  it  is  possible  that  there  is  a  trail  there. 
Looking  up  it  seems  equally  impossible,  more 
so. 

In  the  descent  of  4500  feet  about  seven  miles 
are  traveled,  but  five  of  those  miles  no  doubt 
carry  four  thousand  feet  of  the  decline,  there 
being  at  least  a  mile  across  a  plateau,  between 
the  upper  and  lower  canyons,  and  about  one 
more  mile  of  slight  decline  in  the  bed  of  a  dry 
.stream. 

Looking  from  above  into  the  canyon  one 
can  but  dimly  see  lower  canyons  which  are, 
in  fact,  as  stupendous  in  proportions  as  is 
tlie  upper  part  of  the  great  gash  in  the  earth. 
Going  down,  a  great  wall  of  rather  white  rock, 
a  softer  stone,  perhaps  sand  stone,  reared  itself 


WITH   WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  39 


to  OTir  left.  We  came  down  between  a  huge  rift 
in  tliis  formation.  We  speculated  between  cliills 
on  how  high  this  particular  precipice  was. 
When  we  got  down  to  where  the  formation 
changed  and  we  were  at  the  beginning  of  a  red 
stone  level,  we  found  a  mark  explaining  that 
we  had  made  1000  feet  of  the  trip  down. 

Then  it  was  down,  down,  for  another  thou- 
sand feet  or  so  until  we  had  got  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  red  formation,  when  we  struck  the 
plateau  and  rode  across  it,  then  on  down,  down, 
down  around  the  cork  screw  part  of  the  trail 
where  we  had  to  lead  our  mules  and  lean  back 
to  keep  from  falling  over.  Down  the  next  two 
thousand  feet  and  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
bed  of  a  waterless  stream  with  sheer  granite 
Avails  close  on  each  side  reaching  eighteen  hun- 
dred to  two  thousand  feet  above. 

We  followed  the  bed  of  that  stream  down 
through  the  tributary  canyon  for  perhaps  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  before  we  finally  turned  out 
into  the  Colorado  river  canyon  proper.  And 
there  we  faced  the  great  walls  of  the  opposite 
side,  equally  high,  equally  commanding  in  ap- 
pearance and  presenting  an  entirely  different 
view  from  anything  else  we  had  seen. 

Below,  the  yellow  river  rushes  along,  con- 
tinuing today  as  it  has  through  a  thousand 
centuries  its  task  of  hewing  deeper  and  deeper 
into  the  heart  of  the  earth.  When  it  has  torn 
its  course  to  sea  level  the  canyon  will  then  be 
such  a  spectacle  as  will  make  today's  eighth 
wonder  of  the  world  seem  insignificant  as  com- 
])ared  to  the  final  product.  But  you  and  I  will 
not  see  that.  It  will  take  another  hundred 
thousands  of  years  or  so  for  the  Colorado  to 
accomplish  its  ultimate  aim.  In  the  meantime 
let's  enjoy  it  as  it  is. 

How  I  wish  I  had  words  with  which  to  make 


40  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


our  readers  feel  the  mysterious  grandeur  of  the 
scenes  in  this  canyon.  Rocks,  rocks,  rocks! 
Millions  and  billions  and  trillions  of  tons  of 
rocks,  thrown  here  and  there  and  everywhere 
as  if  the  gods  had  gone  mad  and  hurled  mount- 
ains at  each  other.  And  those  canyons:  the 
great  big  canyon  and  its  little  canyons,  the 
smaller  models  being  in  themselves  so  great  as 
to  bring  a  great  spell  of  quiet  over  us  as  we 
invaded  their  depths. 

Our  little  caravan  marched  on  in  silence, 
each  one  wrapped  in  deeply  stirring  emotions. 
The  beat  of  the  hoofs  of  our  mounts  upon  the 
rocky  path  over  the  smoothly  worn  stones  in 
the  bed  of  the  once  deepl}^  flowing  stream  struck 
upon  the  side  walls  and  rang  out  sliarply  and 
clearly,  but  we  know  they  were  but  as  the  trick- 
ling of  a  gentle  stream  in  the  great  vastness  of 
the  precipitous  heights.  We  were  in  a  world 
of  weird  wonders.  We  were  insignificant  insects 
wending  our  curious  wavs  into  the  sacred 
haunts  of  the  spirits  of  big  things. 

I  remembered  what  the  brakeman  said: 
''Look  at  that  and  say  there  ain't  no  God,  will 
y'!"  and  I  will  not.  Looking  "at  that"  one 
sees  God  everywhere,  and  one  appreciates  more 
and  more  the  works  of  God  and  of  God 's  hand- 
maiden, Nature,  who  moves  in  a  mysterious,  de- 
liberate, painstaking,  Init  never  faltering  way, 
"His  wonders  to  perform."  And  this  Grapd 
Canyon  of  the  Colorado  is  a  wonder  of  wonders. 
The' flowing  waters  have  teeth  of  steel.  They 
are  savvying  deep  into  the  heart  of  the  earth  and 
as  they  go  deeper  and  deeper  they  spread  out 
before  the  eyes  of  wondering  man  such  a  pan- 
orama of  beauty  as  makes  us  pause.  Go  on 
mule.  T  put  my  trust  in  thee  and  thou  hast 
failed  me  not! 

After  lunch  on  the  bank  of  the  Colorado,  un- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS 


41 


THE   START   DOWN   BRIGHT  ANGEL   TRAIL 

Four  thousand  five   hundred  feet  descent  to  the   Grand 
Canyon    of   the    Colorado    River 


der  a  wall  of  granite  that  towered  some  thou- 
sand feet  over  onr  heads  affordino-  a  grateful 
shade  from  the  sun  which  beat  very  "hotly" 
u])on  ns  in  the  narrow  canyon,  we  ]irepared  for 
the  trip  back  to  the  top.  This  trij)  was  to  be 
a  less  painful  one  to  us  although  a  more  diffi- 
cult one  for  the  mules.  The  mules  seemed  to 
sense  that  fact  for  they  seemed  -a  little  more 
peevish  when  we  again  apin^oached  them  pre- 
paratory to  the  start.    Getting  a  little  too  close 


4  2  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

to  one  of  the  female  mules  of  the  party  she 
gently  waved  a  hind  foot  at  me  in  a  consider- 
ate warning  to  keep  my  distance. 

Here,  too,  our  guide  asked  me  a  very  im- 
pertinent question,  or  so  it  seemed  to  me.  Pre- 
viously, during  the  day,  as  we  stopi^ed  briefly  at 
a  point  in  our  descent  I  had  asked  him  why 
some  effort  was  not  made  by  breeders  of  horses 
and  mules  to  produce  a  species  of  animal  that 
would  have  longer  legs  in  front  than  behind. 
This  suggestion  w^as  entirely  apropos  as  our 
reader  will  readily  see.  If  a  mule  could  be  pro- 
duced that  liad  front  legs,  say  eight  inches 
longer  than  his  rear  legs,  then  the  riders  could 
rest  more  comfortably  going  down  mountain 
sides.  The  riding  level  would  be  more  nearly 
maintained.  Now  as  we  started  up  hill  at  an 
angle  of  something  like  forty-five  degrees,  the 
guide  aroused  himself  long  enough  from  his 
somewhat  painful  vocal  reticence  to  ask  me  in 

rather  contemptuous  tones:    "What  in  the 

would  you  do  now  with  your  mule  with  the  long- 
front  legs." 

I  did  not  deign  to  answer  him.  Anyone  with 
common  sense  knows  that  if  a  mule  with  long 
front  legs  could  be  procured,  it  would  be  equally 
easy  to  produce  one  with  long  rear  legs  and 
then  tourists  could  ride  down  the  mountain  on 
mules  with  long  legs  in  front  and  up  the  mount- 
ain on  mules  with  long  legs  behind.  The  prob- 
lem is  a  comparatively  simple  one  in  breeding. 
Cross  a  mule  with  a  kangaroo  and  get  an  animal 
with  long  rear  legs,  or  cross  him  with  a  giraffe 
and  get  an  animal  with  long  front  legs.  Ther^^ 
are  a  lot  of  ignorant  people  in  this  w^orld. 

But  what  a  wonderful  trip  back  that  was. 
On  we  went,  mile  after  mile,  persistently  com- 
ing up  against  impenetrable  walls  and  just  as 
persistently  penetrating  them.     Thousands  of 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  43 


feet  above  us  we  could  see  the  El  Tovar  liotel 
From  which  we  had  started,  and  it  seemed  as  if 
we  would  never  reach  it  again,  but  we  did,  after 
hours  of  painful  riding  and  it  seemed  good  to 
once  more  be  on  top.  We  had,  however,  made  a 
trip  which,  because  of  its  various  thrills,  will 
never  be  forgotten  and  one  which  gave  to  us  a 
view  of  the  Grand  Canyon  that  can  be  had  by 
no  other  means.  You  have  to  go  down  into  it 
to  see  it. 

In  onr  group  who  made  the  descent  were  Mr. 
James  W.  Brown,  of  the  Editor  and  Publisher, 
New  York  City,  and  his  wife  "Pickles;"  Bill 
Smith,  of  Tlie  Sun,  Waukegan,  111.;  J.  H.  Zerby, 
Pottsville,  Pa.,  Republican  and  his  two  sisters, 
Elizabeth  and  Mildred;  Miss  Mary  Hersey,  Mil- 
ton, Mass.;  Tliales  Coutoupis,  Athens;  the 
writer  and  two  or  three  others  wliose  real  names 
I  don't  remember  at  this  moment. 

It  was  Mr.  Brown  who  offended  our  group 
mightily.  Often,  just  when  we  were  enwrapped 
in  the  most  transcendently  inspiring  emotions 
as  we  view'ed  the  stupendous  wonders  of  the 
canyon  tlie  cpiiet  of  our  ruminations  wonld  be 
disturbed  by  the  harsh  reverl)erations  of  a 
man's  voice  calling  "Pickles,  oh  Pi-i-i-ickles!" 
It  was  James  Wright  Brown  calling  his  wife. 


44  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  VIII. 
Along-  the  Way 

En    Route,    October    4,    1921 

One  of  the  very  interesting-  things  at  the 
Grrand  Canyon  station  is  tlie  Hopi  House,  a  min- 
iature Indian  pueblo,  built  of  small  stone  slabs, 
an  exact  reproduction  of  the  old  liomes  of  the 
Hopi  Indians.  Inside  are  the  furnishings  of  an 
Indian  home,  in  one  part  of  the  ho  rise,  while  the 
other  part  is  used  as  a  museum  and  as  an  In- 
dian store.  This  l)uilding  was  erected  about 
twenty  years  ago,  but  it  was  built  by  Indians 
and  it  is  a  faithful  reproduction  of  the  old 
homes  in  which  these  advanced  Indians  lived 
before  America  Avas  discovered.  It  is  interest- 
ing especially  because  of  its  uniqueness  and  its 
atmosphere  of  antiquity. 

At  c'.bout  5 :30  of  the  evening  we  were  there 
the  Indians  of  the  Grand  Canyon  vicinity  put 
on  a  special  dance  for  the  benefit  of  the  visitors. 
It  was  watched  with  absorbing  interest  by  all, 
and  it  certainly  was  an  exhibition  of  physical 
agility  and  endurance,  such  as  one  rarely  sees. 
One  apparently  very  old  Indian  took  part  in 
the  dance,  and  in  response  to  an  inquiry  as  to 
how  he  could  stand  such  vigorous  exercise  at 
his  age  he  said  that  the  "dancing  keeps  me 
young.''  Strangely  enough  we  do  not  remem- 
ber of  ever  having  seen  the  Indian  women  par- 
ticipating in  these  festivities;  they  do,  though, 
no  doubt,  l)ut  it  is  not  on  record  that  they  have 
yet  adopted  the  civilized  forms  of  dancing  in 
which,  as  Abe  Martin  says,  "nothing  is  l)arred 
excepting  the  toe  hold."  We  doubt  very  much 
if  old  chief  "Scalded  Face"  would  be  living 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS 


45 


now  had  lie  been  I'cnrcd  on  our  modern  i'orins 
of  dancing',  in  wliicli  one  is  said  to  iive  at  a  mile 
a  minute  rate.  Old  "Scalded  Face"  lives  the 
simple  life,  com])aratively. 

We  left  Grand  Canyon  al)Out  ten  o'clock  at 
niglit  and  made  no  other  stop  of  length  until 
about  four  o'clock  Monday  afternoon,  when  we 
reached  Bakersfield,  California,  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  of  the  medium  sized  towns  in  the 
state.    It  is  a  mining  and  oil  center  and  a  drive 


INDIAN    WOMAN   WEAVING   A    BLANKET 

over  the  city  under  the  auspices  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  of  that  city  was  one  of  the  most 
delightful  of  our  experiences  so  far.  We  were 
taken  out  to  one  of  the  oil  fields  where  there 
are  three  thousand  producing  oil  wells  and  then 
shown  about  town.  Of  course  they  have  a  court 
house,  a  library,  a  city  hall,  a  park,  a  hospital, 
a  high  school,  a  Ford  garage,  an  "old  town" 
and  a  new  town,  and  they  showed  them  all  to 
us  with  a  commendable  pride.  Maybe  we  en- 
vied them  a  little. 


46  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Tlie  hospitality  of  the  Bakersfield  men  was 
genuine  and  all  inclusive,  and  we  could  not  get 
away  from  that  little  city  without  feeling  that 
in  deed  and  in  truth  the  California  way  is  a 
real  way.  In  a  city  near  which  the  pay  for  oil 
labor  alone  is  $50,000.00  a  day,  it  is  not  sur- 
prising that  there  are  things  doing  all  the  while. 
They  speak  of  millions  where  we  speak  of  thou- 
sands. They  happen  to  be  one  of  the  very 
wealthy  centers  of  the  state  and  the  town  and 
the  citizenship  reflect  it. 

From  Bakersfield  we  went  directly  to  San 
Francisco,  winding  up  our  long  rid(3  not  so  very 
much  the  worse  for  wear  because  the  trip  had 
been  enlivened  by  frequent  stops  at  interesting 
points  and  there  had  been  such  a  variety  of  ex- 
periences with  so  much  to  see  that  was  new  and 
interesting  that  we  did  not  have  time  to  get 
tired.  The  Santa  Fe  service  all  along  the  line 
has  been  fine.  Having  such  a  large  party  they 
]nit  a  special  man  on  the  train  to  help  in  car- 
ing for  the  wants  of  the  people  and  he,  ' '  Tom ' ' 
was  everywhere  present  when  he  was  wanted 
and  at  all  times  most  cordial  and  obliging.  One 
dared  not  mention  a  want  in  his  presence  un- 
less he  expected  to  see  it  gratified  if  such  a 
thing  was  reasonable  and  possible. 

Another  Iowa  man  has  joined  us,  Eugene 
Kelley  of  the  Sioux  City,  Iowa,  Tribune.  We 
have  quite  an  Iowa  delegation  now.  New  York 
seems  to  have  the  largest  delegation  of  all  the 
states,  though.  Dean  Williams  of  the  Columbia 
School  of  Journalism,  the  present  president  of 
the  World's  Press  Congress,  and  his  party 
joined  us  at  Kansas  City.  We  arrived  in  San 
Francisco  at  about  8  o'clock  in  the  morning 
and  it  was  immediately  apparent  that  the  few 
liours  to  be  spent  in  that  city  were  to  be  hours 
chuck  full  of  business  and  pleasure.     The  sail- 


WITH    WORLD'S    PRESS    CONGRESS  47 

in^-  lioiir  was  four  o'clock  p.  m.  and  it  doesn't 
take  four  o'clock  long  to  come  when  one  is  busy 
in  a  big  city. 


48  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  IX. 
A  Few  Hours  in  Frisco 

En  Route,    October   5,    1921 

Frequently  I  had  heard  of  tlie  ''San  Fran- 
cisco Way,"  or  the  "California  Way."  Now 
I  at  least  know  something  ahont  what  the 
"San  Francisco  Way"  means.  We  arriv- 
ed at  Ferry  Point,  across  the  bay  from 
San  Francisco  Tnesday  morning,  Oct.  4th,  at 
ahont  7:30  o'clock.  Getting  off  the  train  there 
we  waited  a  little  while  for  the  ferry  to  arrive 
and  when  it  did  arrive  there  came  "with  it  a  del- 
egation of  San  Francisco  men  who  threw  the 
gates  of  the  city  wide  open. 

This  was  the  printed  program  passed  ont  to 
each  member  of  onr  ]iarty  as  we  arrived: 

9:00  a.  m. — Press  party  disembarks  from 
ferry  at  San  Francisco  ferry  station,  and  after 
assembling  in  rotunda  of  ferry  building  take 
automobiles. 

9:30  to  10:30 — Men  of  party  at  Olympic 
club,  women  of  party  at  Woman's  Athletic 
Club,  for  personal  comfort  after  trip,  a  short 
swim  for  those  who  desire  it. 

10:30  a.  m. — Re-assemble  in  automobiles 
for  trip  around  San  Francisco. 

12:00  to  2:00  p.  m. — Special  complimentary 
luncheon  to  party  at  the  Cliff  House. 

2:00  to  3:30  p.  m. — Party  to  continue  on 
sight-seeing  tour.  Committeemen  will  be  con- 
trolled by  the  desires  of  the  party  in  their 
respective   automobiles. 

4:00  p.  m. — Escort  party  by  automobiles  to 
S.  S.  Matsonia,  pier  30  for  embarkation  for 
Honolulu. 

We  quote  the  above,  just  to  show  the  "San 
Francisco  Way."  First  to  the  Clubs  where 
those  who  wished  to  might  bathe,  go  swimming, 
etc.    At  the  Olympic  club  a  number  of  us  took 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  49 

advantage  oi'  the  sug'gestion  that  wo  try  the 
pool.  It  is  a  wonderfully  pretty  pool,  marble 
lined  thronghont,  with  sea  water  at  a  very 
agreeable  temjieratnre  in  any  depths  desired. 
Anyone  who  has  ever  been  able  to  paddle 
around  just  a  little  in  soft  water  need  not  fear 
sea  waiei".  It  holds  one  up.  In  wading  around 
througli  the  shallower  water  I  stepped  on  a 
sharp  incline,  a  little  slippery,  and  before  I 
knew  it  I  was  off  into  water  so  deep  that  it 
was  swim  or  stay  in.  I  swam  out  without  hoist- 
ing the  distress  flag  toward  the  frlendh^  guard 
who  was  near  by. 

Many  of  the  men,  and  no  doubt  many  of  the 
women,  too,  took  advantage  of  that  delightful 
opportunity,  which  prompted  a  city  speaker 
later  in  the  day  to  make  the  comment  that  San 
Francisco  was  on  this  occasion  entertaining  the 
*' cleanest  body"  of  Journalists  that  had  ever 
visited  the  cit}".  This  speaker  also  called  the 
especial  attention  of  the  people  in  liis  audience 
to  the  precautions  in  hygiene  and  sanitation 
that  are  taken  by  the  officials  of  the  city  when 
they  have  visitors  whose  cleanliness  is  not  en- 
tirely unquestioned. 

Well,  let  them  have  all  the  fun  they  want  to 
about  it,  the  fact  was  the  baths  were  needed 
and  were  appreciated,  as  were  the  other  court- 
esies of  those  wonderful  clubs.  Judging  from 
appearances,  we  would  surmise  that  one  must 
be  a  millionaire  at  least  in  order  to  keep  the 
pace  of  members  of  the  Olympic  club.  This 
body  of  poor  newspaper  men  M^ere  given  a  taste 
of  high  life  for  a  few  moments,  anyway. 

After  that  came  the  ride  about  the  city  and 
it  was  some  ride,  done  in  some  style:  In  the 
forward  car  were  Mayor  Rolph,  his  chief  of 
police,  one  or  two  other  city  notables  and  Presi- 
dent Williams  of  the  Press  Congress.    This  car 


50  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


was  dr  iped  at  the  rear  with  oiir  national  colors 
and  on  the  running'  board  at  either  side  police 
officers  stood  in  readiness  for  any  emergency. 
At  tlie  rear  filed  the  some  fifteen  cars  carrying 
the  W(/rld  press  delegates.  Frisco  was  ours! 
Wherever  we  went,  others  less  favored  stopped 
to  look.  Street  cars  trembled  in  our  presence 
and  hanghtily  driven  limousines  pulled  up  when 
our  procession  struck  the  street.  "Ah,"  said 
I  to  myself,  "  'I  am  Sir  Oracle,  when  I  speak 
let  no  dog  bark.'  "  Later  on,  though,  after  the 
day  was  gone  and  as  the  quiet  of  night  settled 
down  upon  us,  far  out  upon  the  waves  of  the 
wide  reaching  sea,  I  thought  of  another  quo- 
tation, one  that  I  think  of  oftener  and  oftener 
with  the  death  of  the  days  and  weeks  and 
months:  "Vanity  of  vanities,  all  is  vanity,  say- 
eth  the  preacher." 

All  large  cities  are  much  the  same.  I  know 
of  no  big  city  in  the  XTnited  States  or  elsewhere 
that  doesn't  have  something  that  is  considered 
the  biggest,  the  best,  the  prettiest,  the  most  re- 
markable, the  longest,  the  cleanest  there  is  in 
the  world.  Of  course,  San  Francisco  is  a  big 
city,  a  beautiful  city,  a  delightful  city  to  live 
in.  So,  in  fact,  are  most  all  cities  m  the  United 
States.  Where  one  is  at  home,  has  friends  and 
a  family  whom  he  loves,  and  who  love  him, 
where  health  is  fairly  good  and  a  comfortable 
existence  secured,  that  is  the  most  beautiful 
place  in  the  world! 

It  is  easy  enough,  then,  to  conceive  how 
many  people  may  look  upon  San  Francisco  as 
the  most  beautiful  place  in  the  w^orld  to  live 
in.  They  live  there  and  all  that  they  have,  and 
love,  in  life  is  there,  so  to  them  Frisco  is  the 
loveliest  of  the  lovely.  It  is  a  bpautiful  city, 
built  upon  a  thousand  hills  it  seemed  to  us.  And 
we  had  an  excellent  chance  to  see.     We  were 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS   CONGRESS  51 

led  1  lir:)ii,i;li  (lie  most  l)',';miirnl  sli'ct'ls  and.  parks 
and  into  the  riiicsi  rc.-idctilial  ([iiailcrs,  and  fin- 
ally t'oi-  '*  1iiii('Ikm;ii  "  (diiiiio]-,  at  oiii"  house)  we 
were  taken  to  tlie  Cliff  house  by  the  sea  side. 

Yes,  it  was  a  diuuei-  iu  k-e(^])iii,<>'  with  the 
other  pxtravai^'ances  of  the  day  and  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  San  Franeisco  Clianibev  of  Com- 
merce. After  the  dinner  there  were  addresses 
by  tlie  president  of  the  Cliamber  of  Commerce, 
Mayor  Rol]>]i  and  Editor  De  Young,  of  the  San 
Francisco  Clironicle.  Of  our  jiarty  the  follow- 
ing s])oke:  \'irgilio  K.  Beteta,  Guatemala,  (^ol. 
Frederic  W.  Ija\vson,  London,  England,  Ex-Sen- 
ator F.  P,  Glass,  Birmingham,  Alabama,  and 
Dean  Walter  Williams,  Columbia,  Mo. 

The  after  dinner  program  was  ilie  usual  ex- 
change of  courtesies,  the  speakers  all  speaking 
briefly,  the  key  note  of  all  the  remarks  center- 
ing in  the  thought  that  the  get  together  idea 
is  the  idea  to  be  emphasized  now,  the  world 
over.  It  is  recognized  that  the  World  Press 
Congress  is  intended  to  be  an  international  ef- 
fort among  newspapers  to  do  their  part  toward 
creating  more  cordial  relations  between  the  dif- 
ferent peoples  of  the  world,  through  the  press 
medium. 

After  the  dinner  and  the  toasts  the  tour  of 
the  city  was  continued  down  through  Golden 
Gate  Park  and  over  the  drive  that  leads  some 
two  thousand  feet  above  the  city  around  the 
twin  ])oaks.  From  that  beautiful  cement  drive 
one  gets  such  a  view  of  the  city  as  tends  almost 
to  make  even  the  lover  of  other  lands  and  other 
cities  admit  that  such  spectacles  are  very,  very 
rare. 

So  cordial  were  these  San  Francisco  people, 
and  so  tenacious  in  their  hold  upon  us  that  even 
those  of  us  who  had  wished  to  do  a  little  shop- 
ping in  the  city,  buy  a  pair  of  clean  socks,  a 


52  A  TRIP  TO   THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


liair  pill,  or  two,  a  shirt,  send  a  telegram,  or 
drop  a  ])icture  postal,  were  deprived  of  those 
joys.  We  were  landed  at  Pier  30  with  barely 
twenty  minntes  in  which  to  make  the  final  ar- 
rangements for  sailing. 

This  writer  had  his  small  amount  of  l)aggage 
still  nneheeked  and  "nnaboard;"  ;ind  a  broken 
typewriter  sent  up  town  to  be  repaired  had  not 
yet  made  its  appearance  at  the  dock;  and  the 
manager  of  our  party  had  my  tickets,  if  any 
were  to  lie  had,  for  I  had  been  so  late  in  mak- 
ing tlio  final  decision  to  go  on  the  trip  that  I 
had  not  been  fully  provided  for  in  advance. 

But,  all  was  well!  "Tom"  soon  came 
"moseying  along"  with  my  tj^pewriter,  "no 
charges  at  all,  glad  to  be  of  service  to  you;"  I 
found  my  luggage  and  a  pleasant  mannered 
porter  grabJied  it  and  started  shii)ward. 

"I'll  drop  your  bags  aft  on  the  upi)er  deck, 
sir,"  he  said  and  hurried  away. 

I  soon  found  Will  Wilke,  the  manager  of 
our  party,  densely  surrounded  liy  a  grou])  of 
anxious  individuals.  I  butted  in  long  enough  to 
find  tliat  I  was  really  l)Ooked  for  the  voyage 
and  got  my  tickets.  I  then  tried  to  find  a  ]ilace 
from  v.iiich  to  send  a  telegram  to  the  "dear 
ones  at  home"  to  advise  them  that  we  were  at 
the  edge  of  the  pond,  but  there  was  no  office 
near  enough  for  me  to  attempt  to  reach  at  that 
late  moment,  and  it  was  too  late  to  send  for  a 
messenger. 

"I  tliink  I  can  make  it  all  right,"  said  a 
young  man  in  ship  uniform  near  by.  "I'm 
chief  bell  boy,  and  you  can  settle  with  me  when 
we  get  out."  Away  he  went  on  the  run,  and  I 
hope*  the  folks  at  home  heard  from  us;  we  tried 
to  reach  them  anvwav." 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  53 


LETTER  X. 
At  Sea 

October    6,    1921 

Last  night  on  ship  board,  42()  miles  from 
San  Erancisco,  I  heard  over  wireless  telephone 
a  phonograph  record  played  from  the  top  of  the 
Fairmont  hotel  in  San  Erancisco.  We  heard  a 
man  sing,  and  a  few  hours  before,  Mayor  Rolpli 
had  telephoned  the  baseball  scores  to  the  ship. 
Wireless  telephony  seems  marvelous,  more  mar- 
velous than  wireless  telegraphy.  Somehow,  we 
can  conceive  of  jarring  the  ether  currents  in 
such  a  manner  that  dots  and  dashes  may  be  re- 
produced by  means  of  a  sympathetic  recorder, 
but  to  send  the  human  voice  through  the  air, 
hundreds  of  miles,  with  nothing  to  ride  on  but 
invisible  currents  of  electrically  charged  atmos- 
phere, that  seems  a  miracle.  It  really  seems  but 
a  short  while  since  the  regular  telephone  was 
a  curiosity  in  the  old  home  town. 

To  the  right  and  to  the  left,  before  and  be- 
hind us  the  beautiful  sea  stretches  its  face  to 
the  horizon  limits.  It  is  a  deep  blue  sea  today. 
We  are  now  the  third  day  out  from  Erisco  and 
are  getting  into  warmer  weather.  The  sea  is 
so  calm  and  the  ship  moves  so  steadily  that  one 
hardly  realizes  that  we  are  moving  unless  one 
looks  out  over  the  water.  But  we  are  moving, 
moving  right  along.  We  haven't  stopped  since 
we  left  Erisco  and  we  have  seen  no  land  since 
we  were  some  few  miles  out  from  the  Golden 
Gate  and  we  will  see  no  land  for  three  days  more, 
or  until  we  are  at  the  gates  of  Honolulu  if  we 
follow  our  appointed  course.       An  Australian 


54  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


stcaiuer  was  in  siglit  all  day  vestoi'day  and  all 
last  night,  but  now  she  is  behind  lis  below  the 
horizon.  She  is  traveling  on  a  slower  schedule. 
Tomorrow  we  expect  to  meet  a  steamer  l)ound 
for  "home"  and  we  may  trade  mail.  The  north- 
ward bound  vessel  will  get  a  big  bundle  of  it 
from  this  shi]). 

We  left  San  Francisco  at  four  o'clock  the 
evening  of  the  4tli,  Tuesday.  The  sailing  was 
picturesque.  There  seems  to  be  a  sort  of  I'om- 
ance  about  sea  going  that  makes  the  occasion 
one  that  appeals  strongly  to  the  sentimental 
emotions. 

The  Press  Congress  people  were  all  bedecked 
with  gaudily  colored  jiaper  collars.  People  from 
the  dock  and  from  the  ship  threw  out  long 
streamers  of  paper  ribbon  in  variagated  colors ; 
boys  and  girls,  young  men  and  young  women, 
older  people,  too,  hang  over  the  deck  railings 
waving  their  hands  and  shouting  last  messages. 
The  whistle  blows  a  short  blast,  the  gang- 
1)1  ank  is  di'agged  down,  the  steamer  swings 
slowly  away  from  dock  and  we're  off. 

I  hasten  to  search  out  my  state  room  to  find 
who  my  companions  are  to  be.  There  are  three 
beds  in  each  state  room  and  naturally  one  would 
wonder  who  was  to  share  his  apartments  during 
the  six  day  voyage.  It's  a  rather  intimate  re- 
lationship; lots  of  chance  for  quarreling,  for 
crowding,  for  greed.  In  the  state  room  I  find 
one  of  my  companions  there  ahead  of  me.  He 
is  Ludvig  Saxe,  Christiania,  Norway,  of  the 
"Verdens  Gang;"  our  other  companion  we  soon 
learn  is,  by  strange  and  not  unhappy  chance, 
our  Greek  friend  Thales  Coutoupis,  with  whom 
I  had  visited  so  pleasantly  on  the  train  and  who 
had  been  in  our  party  in  its  descent  of  Bright 
Angel  trail  at  Grand  Canyon. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  55 


Mr,  Saxc  and  Alt'.  Coutoupis  liave  the  lower 
berths,  I  tlie  one  upper,  because  ol'  my  dehiy  in 
bookiiij;'.  Mr.  Saxe  immediately  begins  insist- 
ing that  lie  should  take  the  upper  because  he 
is  lighter  in  weight  than  I.  He  s])eaks  a  ])retty 
good  Englisli  and  is  more  easily  understood  than 
is  our  Greek  friend.  I  assured  him  ihat  I  would 
be  content  to  take  just  exactly  what  I  had 
drawn;  that  he  is  entitled  to  his  lower  by  prior- 
ity right  and  that  I  would  not  think  of  taking 
his  better  location  away  from  him.  I  have  won- 
dered since  if  there  could  have  possibly 
been  any  method  in  Mr.  Saxe's  madness.  They 
do  say  that  in  case  of  sickness  in  the  upper 
berth  the  man  below  is  in  great  danger.  I 
haven't  been  sick  yet,  so  Mr.  Saxe  has  not  been 
disturbed. 

The  dining  service  on  our  steamer  is  very 
fine,  too  fine  for  some  evidently,  for  they  are 
not  regular  in  attendance.  Some  have  been  to 
the  dining  room  but  once;  others  appear  per- 
iodically, peck  gently  at  the  food  and  then  hie 
themselves  out  into  the  fresh  air,  or  back  to 
their  berths.  It  makes  me  think  of  the  state- 
ment of  the  individual  with  us  on  a  former 
ocean  trip  who  claimed  that  he  had  gotten  so 
sick  the  first  few  days  out  that  he  threw  up 
stuff  that  he  had  eaten  when  he  was  a  child. 
There  is  lots  of  good  food  wasted  at  sea. 
Wasted?  Well,  I'm  not  sure,  behind  the  boat, 
now  almost  700  miles  out,  there  are  still  follow- 
ing us,  big  birds,  gulls  I  presume,  who  live,  it 
is  said,  upon  the  offal  from  the  vessel.  They 
certainly  have  good  picking  the  first  few  days 
out. 

The  gulls  are  marvellous  birds.  In  them  you 
have  a  stabilized  form  of  airplane.  They  are 
more  than  that,  they  are  hydroplanes,  too.  They 


56  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

light  upon  the  water,  rest  there,  rise  again, 
catch  up  with  the  ship,  skim  along  over  the 
waves,  apparently  tipping  them  with  their 
wings,  and  oh,  they  lead  a  merry  life,  free  from 
every  care  in  the  world  and  fearless  of  wind 
and  wave.  It  is  about  six  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon here  now,  and  in  Washington  many  of  our 
friends  are  preparing  for  bed;  the  first  show  is 
just  out  at  the  Fox;  if  it  is  cold,  father  is  down 
l)utting  a  little  coal  in  the  furnace  and  mother 
is  putting  out  the  cat.  Over  in  the  west,  here, 
the  sun  is  still  u])  in  the  clouds.  There  is  a 
broad,  clear  streak  on  the  horizon,  though,  and 
the  surgeon  just  told  me  that  a  beautiful  sunset 
is  brewing.  We  have  not  seen  a  sunset  yet ;  the 
two  preceding  evenings  being  cloudy.  All  are 
anxious  to  see  old  Sol  take  a  naked  j^lunge  into 
the  sea.  It  looks  as  if  he  would  make  it  to- 
night. 

Last  night,  on  the  upper  deck  they  had  a  pic- 
ture show,  and  to  enliven  it  the  Hawaiian  or- 
chestra played  occasional  numbers  and  sang  fre- 
quently. The  sky  was  overcast,  the  ship  rolled 
in  darkness  and  at  one  time  the  quartette  of 
male  voices  sang  a  Hawaiian  melody  which  was 
so  weird,  so  plaintive,  so  tenderly  mournful,  so 
sweetly  touching  in  its  gentle,  melodious,  tear- 
ful cadences  that  some  of  us  got  homesick.  Such 
things  can  be  endured  when  one  is  at  home,  safe 
under  his  own  roof,  with  cheese  and  crackers 
in  the  pantry  and  coal  in  the  cellar,  but  away 
out  here  a  thousand  miles  from  "gutta  percha," 
as  our  friend  from  Kentucky  says,  it's  excru- 
ciating-. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  57 


LETTER  XI. 
"Peg-gy"  Transfers 

still    at    Sea,    October    8.    1921 

A  lady  at  the  breakfast  tahle  tljis  morning 
remarked:  "We  now  know  what  it  means  to 
be  rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep."  She  made 
that  remark  jnst  after  a  nice  little  collection  of 
plates,  spoons,  knives,  forks,  etc.,  liad  slid  from 
onr  table  off  onto  the  floor  as  the  ship  made  an 
unnsnal  side  dip.  As  for  me,  I  narrowly  escap- 
ed rolling-  from  my  chair  ont  over  the  floor.  Only 
a  qnick  grab  at  the  firmly  attached  table  saved 
me. 

As  onr  readers  will  surmise,  we  are  rolling- 
some  today.  Last  night  it  rained  heavily. 
There  was  no  storm  here,  but  the.  sailors  say 
there  was  a  storm  somewhere  on  the  Pacific  and 
we  are  getting-  the  ground  swell.  In  the  great 
sea  troughs  onr  boat  dips  nntil  one  can  barely 
save  ones  self  from  tumbling  with  every  new 
wave  encountered. 

Last  night  we  passed  the  Maui,  the  sister 
ship  to  the  Matsonia  upon  which  we  are  sailing. 
The  Maui  is  north  bound,  to  San  Francisco.  We 
transferred  mail.  I  hope  it  did  not  go  to  the 
bottom  of  the  sea.  The  transfer  and  its  attend- 
ing incidents  Avere  a  thrilling  sight.  It  had 
rained  during  the  afternoon  and  the  sea  was 
fairly  rough.  As  night  came  on,  it  looked  all 
the  blacker  and  more  threatening.  For  a  long 
while  we  peered  ahead  into  the  darkness  thru 
the  mist  and  the  fog  anxious  to  catch  a  glimpse 
of  the  oncoming  ship.  The  mists  raised,  the  new 
moon  shone  faintly  beliid  the  clouds  and  up  over 


58 


A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


the  liorizon  came  the  Maui,  her  decks  and  ports 
abhize  with  light.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight 
viewing  it  across  the  rolling  waves,  but  not  one 
of  us  landlubbers  who  were  on  the  ship  Init 
wondered  how  it  would  be  possible  to  launch 
a  boat  from  either  ship  and  carry  the  mail 
across,  for  I  had  been  told  during  the  afternoon 
by  one  of  the  officers  of  our  ship  that  the  two 
big  boats  would  not  be  brought  nearer  to  each 


"PEGGY" 

The  movie  actress,  who  involuntarily  staged  a  thrilling 

sea  scene  for  us. 


other  than  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
on  such  a  sea. 

But,  the  mail  was  not  all  that  was  to  be 
transferred.  A  young  woman  had  come  out  on 
the  Maui  to  meet  us  and  she,  too,  was  to  be 
transferred.  That  meant  that  the  Maui  would 
])ut  off  a  small  boat  and  deliver  the  mail  and 
the  young  woman,  and  get  our  mail. 

On  our  ship,  however,  another  small  boat 
was  made  ready  for  immediate  launching  in 
the  event  of  a  call  for  help.    The  big  ships  ap- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRKSS   CONGRESS  59 

proacliod  cncli  other  slowly  until  they  were 
nearer  than  a  half  niih'  ai)art,  we  thought.  The 
search  lii»ht  from  our  ship  played  over  the  sides 
of  the  Maui  fi'om  stem  to  stern  foi-  several  mo- 
ments. We  were  so  close  that  we  conld  see  the 
people  on  tlie  other  vessel. 

Suddenly  we  saw  the  boat  being  low^ered 
from  the  Mani.  There  were  six  or  eight  people 
in  it  a^;  near  as  w^e  conld  see.  Dow^n,  dow^i,  it 
went  along  the  side  of  the  big  shi]).  We  saw- 
it  strike  the  water.  From  the  decks  of  the  Maui 
there  were  cheers.  The  small  boat  cast  off  and 
pulled  out  into  the  sea;  we  could  see  it  bobbing 
over  the  crests  of  the  waves  and  then  disappear 
and  be  ont  of  sight  for  a  full  half  minute.  For 
an  hour  it  bobbed  out  over  the  weaves  as  a  wdiite 
speck,  making  no  perceptible  headw^ay  toward 
us.  Once  it  seemed  to  be  going  back  to  the 
Maui.  The  big  boats  were  getting  farther  and 
farther  apart.  Then  our  ship's  engines  started 
up;  we  were  soon  swinging  around  slowly  and 
we  realized  that  our  officers  were  steering  to- 
w^ard  the  little  boat  in  order  to  shorten  the 
course. 

After  a  little  while  the  boat  from  the  Maui 
was  discovered  off  the  prow  of  our  ship,  on  the 
opposite  side  to  that  from  which  it  had  been 
planned  to  receive  our  visitor.  The  little  boat 
was  making  the  waves  nicely.  The  six  men  at 
the  oars  were  working  like  mad  but  they  were 
not  working  ineffectually.  Our  search  light  now 
full  upon  them  showed  the  boat  tossing  upon 
the  crests  of  the  waves  as  a  most  beautiful  pic- 
ture. 

'No^v  they  w^ere  so  close  that  the  figure  of 
the  w^oman  could  be  made  out.  It  was  an  odd 
figure.  The  up]ier  part  of  her  body  was  wrap- 
l>ed  in  a  big  life  saving  belt.     We  could  catch 


60  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

an  occasional  glimpse  of  her  white  face,  but  she 
never  looked  up.  One  sensed  the  fact  that  she 
felt  that  she  was  in  serious  business.  As  the 
boat  shot  a  particularly  high  wave  and  a  shower 
of  salt  spray  fell  over  the  occupants  of  the  little 
craft  T  saw  her  grab  the  hands  of  the  officer 
seated  near  by  her  with  a  tense  grip. 

The  sailors  from  our  boat  began  shouting- 
salutations  to  the  boys  below.  Back  from  the 
little  boat  came  the  shout  "Hello  Fat,"  as  one 
of  our  visitors  evidently  recognized  an  old 
friend.  They  didn't  stop  bending  to  the  oars, 
though 

"Some  joy  ride"  another  commented. 
"How's  the  weather?"  someone  called  from 
our  ship. 

"Eolten  as  ,"    came  back  the    piquant 

answer. 

Soon  they  were  close  to  the  side  of  our  ves- 
sel. There  was  a  scurrying  about  in  the  little 
boat,  a  flinging  of  oars,  a  nervous  bustle,  each 
movement  meaning  something  worth  while,  I 
surmise,  in  the  effort  to  keep  the  little  boat 
from  getting  too  far  under  the  big  one. 

"Out  with  a  line"  the  officer  from  below 
shouted,  but  the  line  didn't  come  quick  enough. 
In  an  instant  the  little  boat  was  out  in  the  sea 
again;  back  she  came  in  a  few  moments. 

"Out  with  your  line,  quick!" 

Out  the  line  shot,  and  then  another  one.  The 
girl  was  quickly  "hung"  with  a  rope  about  the 
waist,  nnder  the  arms.  A  ladder  of  rope  with 
wooden  steps  was  cast  down  and  she  was  push- 
ed onto  it. 

She  started  to  climb  nervously  and  then  slip- 
ped back;  the  rope  around  the  waist  held  her. 
The  officer  in  charge  climbed  up  behind  her, 
pushing  her   on  up   and  up  while  the  ladder 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  61 


swiin^'  like  a  streamer  in  the  breezes.  Arms 
reached  far  down  and  j>ral)bed  tlie  j>irl  and  she 
was  piiHed  through  a  port  hole  white,  and 
tremblin.^,  and  temporarily  undone. 

From  above  there  shot  out  a  small  hag  which 
fell  into  the  boat  below  with  a  clang.  It  was  a 
bag  of  silver  that  the  passengers  on  our  boat 
had  made  up  for  the  sailors  who  had  dared  the 
deep  to  deliver  the  girl  and  get  the  mail.  The 
mail,  too,  was  safely  landed  into  the  small  boat. 
We  hope  it  got  safely  to  port  without  accident. 

The  little  boat  was  quickly  away  from  us 
again.  Our  ship  signaled  with  two  long  whistle 
blows  and  we  were  soon  under  full  headway. 
Looking  back  we  could  see  the  little  boat  of  the 
Maui  still  tossing  about  on  the  waves  its  course 
covered  now  by  the  search  light  from  the  Maui. 
We  do  not  doubt  that  they  got  home  all  right 
for  the  trip  back  would  be  with  the  wind  and 
the  boat  rode  the  sea  beautifully,  anyway. 

And  the  young  woman — who  was  she?  I 
don't  know  much  about  her  yet,  nor  do  I  know 
her  mission,  aside  from  that  thrilling  one  wdiich 
she  staged  as  a  companion  of  the  Maui  crew 
that  delivered  her  to  us.  I  did  overhear  one  of 
the  women  from  our  party  remark  after  she  had 
viewed  the  sea  scene:  "And  all  this  for  a  per- 
oxide blonde!"  Gosh,  how  jealous  these  wom- 
en folks  are!  I  have  learned  since  that  the  girl 
is  '  *  Peggy, ' '  a  moving  picture  actress,  the  hero- 
ine of  some  Hawaiian  scenes  which  are  being 
shown  on  shipboard  these  evenings. 

Well,  I've  seen  "Peggy's"  show.  It  was  a 
free  show,  too,  one  of  the  most  i-ealistic  that 
"Peggy"  ever  appeared  in,  I  am  inclined  to 
think.  Anything  else  that  she  may  offer  doesn't 
interest  this  writer  at  present.     Peggy  hit  the 


62  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

liigli  ])uiiit  in  lier  career  last  niglit  when  she 
came  across  in  the  mail  boat. 

It  must  be  said  in  Peggy's  favor,  too,  that 
she  has  the  stuff  in  her  that  success  is  made  of. 
Many  a  person,  in  fact  the  very  great  mass  of 
persons,  would  not  have  dared  the  sea  as  she 
did  last  iright.  Sailors  on  the  Matsonia  all 
agreed  tliat  it  took  nerve  and  lots  of  it  for  a  girl 
to  venture  out  in  a  small  boat  on  such  a  sea. 
While  they  agreed  that  there  was  no  great  dan- 
ger, yet  there  was  some  danger  and  the  situa- 
tion was  at  all  times  tense,  and  nerve  trying. 
The  sailors  are  used  to  it,  hardened  to  it.  Even, 
capsized,  most  of  them  could  swim  for  hours, 
and  would  not  have  felt  that  even  such  a  ca- 
tastrophe Vv^ould  have  meant  sure  death  to  them 
but  for  a  girl  to  face  such  dangers,  that  did 
take  nerve.    Peggy  had  it. 

The  sea  still  is  swelling  mightily;  great  1)il- 
low^s  roll  under  us  and  toss  the  boat  up  and 
down.  They  hit  us  sideways  and  we  tip,  tip 
until  we  have  to  grab  something  to  hold  us  up. 
Why  shouldn't  it  swell!  It's  the  biggest  sea 
in  the  world,  and  just  now  it  has  the  full  sweep 
from  China  east  in  which  to  gather  its  moment- 
um. There  was  a  whole  lot  of  peo])le  who  didn't 
go  to  breakfast  this  morning  and  if  it  stays 
"thusly,"  there  will  be  many  others  who  will 
be  too  busv  at  dinner  time. 


WITH    WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  63 


LETTER  XII. 
The  "Matsonia" 

At  Sea,  October  8,  1921 

Tlic  vessel  oil  wliieli  we  are  making-  tlie  trip 
is  the  Matsonia,  of  the  Matson  Navigatino;  (Com- 
pany line.  At  this  moment  we  are  in  latitude 
27  degrees  and  18  minutes  north  and  longitude 
147  degrees  and  86  minutes  west.  We  are  675 
miles  out  of  Honolulu  and  ]irobably  about  1400 
miles  from  San  Francisco.  The  Matsonia  is  a 
vessel  of  17,000  tons  displacement,  501  feet  long 
and  58  feet  wide.  Its  gross  tonnage  is  9728,  reg- 
istered tonnage  5901.  It  has  a  triple  expansion 
engine  with  a  single  screw,  if  you  know  what 
all  that  means — I  don't.  I  do  know,  however, 
that  the  vessel  will  carry  350  passengers  nicely 
housed,  besides  about  8000  tons  of  other  ballast. 
We're  carrying  a  nice  load  this  trip,  not  over- 
loaded, or  so  heavily  loaded  that  we  can't  make 
time.  We  are  making  good  time  and  expect  to 
dock  in  Honolulu  Monday  morning  at  eight 
o'clock  if  all  goes  well. 

The  state  rooms  on  the  vessel  contain  an  up- 
per and  lower  berth,  a  settee,  a  locker,  a  com- 
Ijined  dresser  and  wash  stand,  electric  fan,  elec- 
tric lights,  armed  camp  chair  and  many  of  them 
have  bath  connections.  The  settee  can  be  made 
into  a  bed,  making,  in  that  case  ample  room  for 
three  in  a  room.  That's  the  way  most  of  the 
press  people  were  booked,  where  it  could  be  so 
arranged.  Messrs.  Coutoupis,  Saxe  and  myself 
fill  one  state  room  more  than  comfortably.  In 
fact,  after  two  nights  in  my  upper,  I  found  I 
wasn't  sleeping  real  well,  too  warm,  so  I  went 
to  the  ]iurser  and  we  found  another  room  for 


64  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

me,  ono  well  forward  on  the  top  deck,  a  room 
ordinarily  used  by  some  of  the  ship  men  I  think, 
for  it  was  rather  far  away  from  the  regular 
group  of  compartments.  In  that  room  I  had 
everything  to  myself  and  did  not  lack  for  fresh 
air  and  all  the  attending  blessings.  The  roll  of 
the  boat  was  probably  a  little  more  noticeable 
but  that  didn't  bother  me  nearly  so  much  as 
had  the  surplus  heat  and  now  we  are  getting 
down  toward  the  real  tropical  climate. 

There  are  three  decks  to  our  vessel,  as  there 
are  to  all,  I  presume,  main  deck,  "prom-e-nod" 
deck  and  top  deck.  On  the  main  deck  are,  in 
addition  to  some  state  rooms,  the  kitchen,  pan- 
try, general  bath  rooms,  dining  room,  etc.;  on 
the  promenade  deck  are  state  rooms,  the  social 
hall  and  some  general  bath  rooms;  on  the  top 
deck  are  state  rooms,  sun  parlor,  men's  smok- 
ing room,  pursers  and  officers'  rooms  and  of- 
fices and  the  open  air  sitting  room  and  sport 
parlors. 

Every  afternoon  there  are  competitive  sports 
on  the  top  deck.  I  played  ''shuffle  board"  with 
such  youthful  enthusiasm  the  first  day  out  that 
I  was  almost  laid  up  for  a  couple  of  days;  at 
least  I  was  out  of  the  sports,  for  the  time  being. 
Last  evening  on  the  top  deck  we  had  a  picture 
show,  and  yesterday  afternoon  in  social  hall  a 
mock  trial  was  held.  This  morning  at  eleven 
o'clock  we  had  a  lecture  in  the  same  place  on 
Hawaii.  Tonight  there  will  be  vaudeville,  and 
I  suspect  that  the  local  talent  will  be  supple- 
mented by  "Peggy,"  the  girl  of  the  sea  about 
whom  we  wrote  in  a  preceding  letter. 

Tonight  at  10:30  a  special  Italian  dinner  will 
be  serv^ed  in  the  dining  room,  after  the  show. 
Dinner  on  shipboard  means  something,  too.  The 
meal  service  is  something  scandalous  in  quan- 
tity and  superlatively  good  in  ciuality.     Only 


WITH    WORLDS   PRESS   CONGRESS 


65 


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66  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

the  fresh  salt  air,  and  tlie  general  toning  up  of 
all  the  physical  machinery  by  means  thereof 
makes  possible  the  successful  assimilation  of  the 
quantities  of  food  that  are  devoured  by  "well" 
people  on  a  trip  like  this.  Not  only  do  they 
serve  three  big"  meals  daily,  but  tAvice  daily,  in 
the  forenoon  and  in  the  afternoon,  deck  stew- 
ards pass  hot  boullion  and  crackers  to  those 
who  get  hungry  between  meals.  Today  the  peo- 
ple sailing  on  this  ship  are  offered  four  big 
regular  meals  and  two  lunches.  At  the  meals 
anything  and  everything  on  the  bill  of  fare  is 
brought  to  the  passenger  if  he  wants  it.  There 
is  no  '"choice  of"  on  this  bill.  It's  a  case  of 
take  evervthing  you  want  and  all  vou  want  of 
it. 

Just  for  the  edification  of  our  readers  I  Avill 
give  herewith  the  luncheon  menu  for  today,  and 
the  luncheon  is  one  of  the  light  meals.  There 
was  no  limit  to  one's  order  and  no  limit  to  the 
number  of  times  one  orders.    This  is  one  of  the 

simplest  menus  we  have  had  at  luncheon  hour. 

Spiced    Herrings 

Green    Olives  Radishes 

Green   Onions  Plain   Lettuce 

Poi  Salami 

Consomme  Vegetable  Soup 

Fried  Halibut  Lemon   Butter 

Chili    Con    Carne    with    Beans 

Baked   Potatoes  Steamed    Rice 

Creamed  Turnips  Hot  Corn   Bread 

Liberty  Steak   with  Fried    Bananas 

Spring   Chicken   with    Bacon    Strips 

Roast   Beef  Pigs   Feet  Ox  Tongue 

Roast  Mutton  Assorted  Sausage 

Roast  Pork  Turkey  Gelatine 

Combination  Salad 

Diplomat   Pudding  Strawberry   Sauce     ■ 

Plum   Pie  Peach   Sherbet 

Almond  Jumbles 

Sliced  Hawaiian   Pineapple 

Fresh  Fruit 

Cheese:      American,    Swiss,    Edam,    Imperial 

Crackers 

Coffee  Cocoa  Tea  Milk 


WITH   WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  67 

And  think  of  it:  a  lot  of  that  stuff  is  hardly 
oaten  l)efore  it  is  fed  to  the  fishes.  No  donbt 
ship  companies  can  afford  to  feed  their  passen- 
gers well,  at  least  such  passengers  as  eat,  for 
they  do  not  all  eat,  certainly  not.  Some  scorn 
food  in  its  most  tempting  forms.  Many  of  them 
liave  the  feeling  of  that  poor  woman  who  sang, 
''Please  Mr.  Captain,  stop  the  ship — I  want  to 
get  out  and  walk." 

Today  as  I  staggered — we  all  staggered  to- 
day, the  swell  is  still  on — as  I  staggered  to- 
ward the  dining  room  I  encountered  friend 
Golthwaite,  of  Boone,  at  the  top  of  the  stair. 
"Isn't  it  beautiful  today,  the  sea?"  I  comment- 
ed. 

''I'm  getting  about  enough  of  it,"  he  said. 
"I  always  wanted  to  experience  this,  but  I'm 
about  fed  up  on  it  now." 

He  had  a  sort  of  a  sickly  expression  on  his 
face;  it  was  a  face  upon  which  distrust,  disgust, 
disdain,  disturbance,  dislike,  disappointment, 
distress  and  other  such  emotions  were  blended 
into  a  somewhat  repelling  composite.  He  really 
didn't  seem  very  sociable  for  a  fellow  lowan. 
I  feel  that  when  two  or  three  people  from  the 
same  state  are  far,  far  away  from  home  togeth- 
er, surrounded  only  by  hundreds  of  compara- 
tive strangers,  on  a  ship  that  is  out  at  sea,  three 
to  four  thousands  of  miles  from  their  mutual 
home,  they  ought  to  be  kind  to  each  other. 
Golthwaite  was  not  kind  to  me.  Ho  didn't  look 
as  if  he  wanted  to  be  kind  to  anybody,  so  I  went 
on  down  and  ate  my  lunch;  and  coming  back  I 
found  him  at  the  same  spot,  in  the  same  mood. 
I  could  not  resist  a  final  effort  at  cordiality  so 
I  commented:  "They  have  some  nice  sausage 
on  the  bill  today,"  and  then  I  passed  right  on, 
quickly,  not  pausing  even  long  enough  to  let 


T' 


68  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

liim  know  that  I  bad  caiiglit  the  look  of  dis- 
tressiim'  dis^iist  and  malevolent  resentment  that 
flickered  over  his  conntenance. 

We  just  sighted  the  government  transport 
''Logan"  northward  bonnd.  It  made  a  beauti- 
ful appearance,  perhaps  six  miles  to  the  "gee" 
side  of  our  ship.  A  deck  hand  tells  us  that  we 
are  hardly  ever  more  than  one  hundred  miles 
from  some  vessel  and  always  we  are  in  wireless 
reach  cf  comparatively  nearby  neighbors.  We 
are  in  the  land  of  the  flying  fish,  too,  now.  Ev- 
ery once  in  a  while  we  strike  a  little  school  of 
them  and  they  dart  through  the  air,  their  silver 
bodies  glinting  brightly  in  the  sunlight. 

Yesterday  standing  up  at  the  ]irow  of  the 
boat  I  saw  a  little  bird  flying  along  by  the  side 
of  the  ship.  It  looked  much  like  an  Iowa  bird, 
brownish  with  little  yellow  spots  on  it.  It  flew 
ahead  of  the  boat  and  on  and  on  out  of  sight, 
di]i]iing  frequently  close  to  the  water. 

Looking'  back  I  saw  another  bird  of  the  same 
appearance.  I  saw  them  for  a  little  while,  only. 
I  wondered,  naturally,  where  they  could  have 
come  from.  Certainly  they  were  not  in  familiar 
haunts.  Later  in  the  day  I  learned  that  a  lady 
passenger  was  taking  the  birds  to  Honolulu  and 
by  some  means  they  got  out  of  the  cage,  and 
were  lost  at  sea.  They  no  doul)t  flew  on  and  on 
as  long  as  they  could  looking  for  land  and  fin- 
ally fell  weakened  and  helpless  into  the  sea. 
■"Nor  could  thev  ask  tomb  more  magnificent." 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  69 


LETTER  XIII. 
Water,  Water  Everywhere 

At    Sea,    October    !),    1921 

Sliortly  after  we  embarked  at  San  Francisco 
I  went  down  into  the  dining  room  of  our  boat 
to  see  what  they  were  doing  about  cliecking*  din- 
ner seats.  There  was  a  big  crowd  there  waiting. 
I  could  get  in  line  and  stay  there  for  an  hour  or 
so  and  be  assigned  to  some  particular  seat. 
There  was  scenery  up  higher  and  I  didn  't  want 
to  wail,  so  I  asked  one  of  the  dining  room  at- 
taches if  there  were  enough  seats  in  the  dining 
room  to  seat  all  the  passengers  and  he  assured 
me  that  there  were,  so  I  let  the  checking  go, 
satisfied  in  knowing  that  there  would  be  a  seat 
for  me,  somewhere.    There  was. 

When  I  came  down  that  evening  for  dinner 
(supper  at  our  house)  the  steward  quickly  as- 
signed me  to  table  C,  seat  1,  and  T  have  been 
there  ever  since.  I  had  told  the  steward  that 
I  didn't  care  whom  I  sat  with,  or  where.  It  all 
looked  good  to  me.  Before  I  had  been  in  ray 
seat  very  long  a  tall,  gray  haired,  rather 
heavily  built  gentleman  came  in  and  sat  down 
beside  me.  I  have  since  learned  that  he  was 
like  me,  not  particularly  concerned  where  he  sat, 
or  whom  he  sat  with.    He  took  pot  luck,  too. 

I  don't  think  I  could  have  mado  a  selection 
more  agreeable  to  myself  had  I  checked  tlie  list 
over  and  taken  my  choice.  The  gentleman  is 
Her])ert  L.  Bridgeman,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  busi- 
ness manager  of  the  "Standard  Union."  The 
card  he  gave  me  said  also,  "Secretary  of  The 
Peary  Arctic  Club."  It  was,  he  ex])lained,  an 
old  card,  the  Peary  Arctic  Club  being  no  more 


70  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

now  since  Mr.  Peary  is  dead  and  since  he  ac- 
complislied  his  life  aim  and  his  life  work. 

Mr.  Bridgeman  has  made  three  Arctic  trips 
himself;  has  traveled  all  over  the  world,  has  had 
larg'e  newspaper  experience,  is  an  exhaustive 
reader,  highly  educated  and  yet  a  man  of  "com- 
mon ordinary"  demeanor,  one  who  impresses 
yon  as  a  student  always  of  common  sense  meth- 
ods in  all  things.  He  is  a  mighty  good  man  to  sit 
and  listen  to  and  he  is  also  a  good  listener,  a 
ha]ipy  combination. 

Since  I  had  always  been  a  Peary  fan,  never 
falling  a  victim  of  the  great  Doc  Cook  hoax,  I 
could  enter  whole-heartedly  into  a  discussion 
of  Peary's  accom]ilisliments,  with  a  man  who 
had  had  a  large  ])art  of  the  heavy  burden  of  fin- 
ancing Peary  expeditions  to  the  north  on  at 
least  three  different  occasions. 

Referring  to  Doc  Cook's  sensational  claims, 
Mr.  Bridgeman  laughingly  admitted  that  he 
didn't  think  the  doctor  realized  what  he  was 
saying  when  he  gave  out  the  word  that  he  had 
reached  the  pole.  Cook  never  dreamed  what  a 
sensation  such  a  statement  would  create.  He 
had  made  claim  to  having  climbed  Mt.  Mc- 
Kinley,  and  got  by  with  it,  why  not  claim  that 
he  made  the  pole. 

]\[r,  Bridgeman  was  in  charge  of  the  ex]ie- 
dition  that  went  north  to  get  Peary  in  1901,  the 
last  expedition  made  by  Peary  prior  to  his  suc- 
cessful one.  On  that  trip  Mrs.  Peary  and  one  of 
their  daughters  had  gone  far  north  with  the  ex- 
plorer and  when  Mr.  Bridgeman  with  his  boat 
arrived  to  get  them,  he  found  the  Peary  boat 
under  Capt.  Bartlett  iced  in  comfortably  at  the 
l)lace  where  the  Greeley  expedition  had  perish- 
ed. 

On  this  occasion  Peary  refused  to  return, 
but   his  wife  and  daughter  returned   with  Mr. 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  71 

Bridgeiiian  and  the  next  season  Peary  came 
back  to  pre])ai-e  for  liis  final  dasli  for  tlie  pole. 
He  had  jn-evionsly  sailed  aronnd  Greenland 
proving'  tliat  the  Greenland  island  did  not  ex- 
tend np  far  enongh  toward  the  pole  to  ^ive  him 
a  substantial  ])asis  for  operations  and  after  that 
discovery  he  mapped  ont  the  plan  that  was  fin- 
ally supcessfnl  in  his  attainment  of  the  pole. 

Mr.  Peary  spent  over  half  his  life  in  the  Arc- 
tics, making  explorations  in  the  interest  of  sci- 
ence and  geography.  He  did  a  stupendous 
amount  of  practical,  useful  work,  ,  and  Mr. 
Bridgeman  as  the  secretary  of  his  club  had  al- 
ways on  hand  the  job  of  raising  funds  for  this 
w^ork.  Tie  admits  though  that  the  achievements 
were  worth  the  effort  required  on  the  part  of 
Peary's  friends  in  his  behalf.  The  complications 
attending  the  consummation  of  their  ambitions 
in  the  attainment  of  the  pole  were  transient  in 
effect  only.  Mr.  Peary  is  today  known  for  what 
he  was  really  worth. 

At  our  table,  too,  we  have  two  bright  young 
literary  women,  one  a  teacher  in  the  Los  An- 
geles schools,  in  the  journalistic  department  of 
the  high  school;  the  other  a  special  Avriter  on  an 
eastern  pa]ier. 

Mrs.  Dow,  of  Sioux  Falls,  S.  Dak.,  who  was 
hurt  just  a  week  ago  today  in  the  Grand  Canyon, 
is  with  us  and  with  the  aid  of  her  husband  she 
is  now  able  to  walk  about  some.  She  is  cheer- 
ful and  both  she  and  her  husband  are  having  a 
good  time  despite  the  accident.  They  never 
give  u]). 

T  do  not  know  whether  I  have  given  the  full 
list  of  foreigners  on  board,  or  not.  If  not,  here 
they  are,  as  nearly  as  I  can  determine  at  this 
time:  V.  R.  Beteta,  Nicaragua;  Thales  Cou- 
tou]Ms,  Athens,  Greece;  Dr.  Henry  Chung, 
Korea;  T.  Feiteira,  Maui,  T.  H.;  Col  and  Mrs. 


72  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Frederick  Lawson,  London;  A.  Lazo,  Havana, 
Cuba;  Oswald  Marand,  Montreal;  P.  J.  0 'Con- 
ner, Guam;  Ludwig-  Saxe,  Christiania,  Norway. 

A  number  of  the  more  modern  of  our  lady 
companions  smoke  cigarettes,  which  is  quite  a 
novel  thing  to  some  of  the  unsophisticated  of 
our  country  editors.  The  London  lady  performs 
the  act  as  handily  as  her  husband  handles  his 
pipe;  and  still  another  girl  was  puffing  a  stick 
a  few  evenings  ago  on  the  upper  deck.  I  didn  't 
bother  to  identify  her.  I  am  more  than  ever  in 
favor  of  woman's  rights — her  right  to  bring 
herself  down  to  man's  level  if  she  wants  to,  but 
I  wish  she  wouldn't. 

The  sea  today  is  calmer.  The  roll  of  yester- 
day is  gone,  much  to  the  delight  cf  several  of 
our  friends.  The  flying  fish  are  getting  larger 
and  flying  farther.  We  have  seen  no  large  fish 
since  we  left  San  Francisco,  where  I  saw  one 
in  the  bay,  rolling  along  through  the  waters  and 
occasionally  jumping  up  high  enough  to  be 
seen.  There  will  be  a  religious  service  in  social 
hall  this  evening  at  seven  o'clock  and  sometime 
during  the  afternoon  the  moving  picture 
man  on  board  will  take  a  picture  of  the  dele- 
gates to  the  Congress.  Tomorrow  morning,  if 
all  goe,^  well,  we  will  be  at  the  island  of  Oahu, 
upon  which  Honolulu  is  situated.  The  luncheon 
bell  (dinner  at  our  house)  has  just  rung.  If 
you  will  excuse  me  I  will  report.  I  haven't 
failed  to  report  at  any  meals  yet  and  I  don't 
want  to  break  mv  record  now. 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  73 


LETTER  XIV. 
Drawing  Near  to  Land 

Honolulu,   H.    T.,   October   10,    1921 

Yesterday  was  Siniday,  October  tlie  9tli,  our 
last  day  on  the  sea  before  reaching  Honolulu. 
It  was  the  busiest  day  of  all  since  we  left  San 
Francisco;  busy  for  those  who  participated  in 
all  the  events  of  the  day.  I  didn't.  At  noon 
the  Italian  dinner  was  served,  having  been  post- 
poned from  the  night  before,  as  originally  ])lan- 
ned.  The  cause  of  the  postponement  was  the 
heavy  sea.  It  had  been  planned  to  have  a  vaude- 
ville show  Saturday  night  and  after  that  the 
Italian  dinner  but  the  heavy  sea  put  so  many 
to  bed  that  that  plan  had  to  be  cancelled. 

After  dinner  they  had  deck  sports.  These 
consisted  of  j^otato  races,  cracker  eating  con- 
tests, neck  pulls,  nail  driving  contests,  cracker 
smashing  battle,  chair  chase,  etc.  We  will  have 
to  say  this  for  the  English  woman  who  rolls  her 
own:  she  is  a  real  all  round  sj^ort.  Any  contest 
that  she  could  possibly  get  into  she  did,  and 
she  showed  good  mettle.  I  doubt  though  if  her 
smoking  helps  any.  Also,  her  husband  was 
there  with  the  goods.  Neither  of  them  was 
afraid  to  join  in  contests  where  one  might  be 
expected  to  make  one's  self  look  ridiculous. 
They  enter  in.  The  colonel,  who  is  one  of  the 
proprietors  of  the  London  Telegram,  enjoys, 
with  all  the  rest,  the  usual  call  for  <Jol.  Lawson, 
"from  Ireland."  He  saw  very  active  service  in 
the  World  War  and  has  a  record  which  credits 
him  hi  gill  y. 

After  the  deck  sports  came  the  "captain's 
dinner,"  the  most  Invisli  feast  that  we  have  yet 


74  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

liad.  Souvenirs  were  passed  out  to  each  pas- 
senger; little  tissue  wrapped  bundles  that  ex- 
ploded when  they  were  opened  and  gave  forth, 
also,  tissue  caps  and  a  prize  for  each  one.  At 
the  close  of  the  dinner  small  balloons  were  turn- 
ed loose  over  the  tables  and  we  were  expected  to 
treat  tliem  rough. 

Following  the  dinner  came  the  religious  serv- 
ices in  the  social  hall.  And,  there  was  the 
young  English  woman,  assisting  in  the  chorus 
work  and  singing  a  very  pretty  solo.  No  one 
would  have  thought  in  listening  to  her  warble 
sweetly  a  numlier  from  the  sailor's  hymnal  that 
she  could  blow  smoke  through  her  nose  and 
never  jjat  an  eye. 

We  had  excellent  talks  by  J.  W.  Brown,  the 
editor  of  Editor  &  Publisher;  Mr.  Chung,  of 
Korea;  Mr.  Coutoupis,  of  Greece,  and  Mr.  Wil- 
liams i)f  Columl)ia,  Missouri.  The  service  was 
led  by  Mr.  J.  E.  Junkin,  of  Miami,  Florida.  It 
was  a  good  interesting  service  from  which  no 
one  at  all  interested  in  good  things  could  fail  to 
get  some  inspiration. 

After  that  meeting  I  wandered  up  into  the 
gentlemen's  smoking  room,  and  there  I  found 
a  lively  poker  game  going  on.  Money  was  on 
the  table  in  good  liberal  quantities.  I  had  heard 
before  that  large  sums  of  money  had  been 
changing  hands  in  that  department  of  the  ship's 
activities,  but  I  am  glad  to  report  that  none  of 
the  press  congress  peo]ile  were  partici])ating  in 
this  part  of  the  ])rogram.  Few  newspaper  men 
can  safely  indulge  that  game,  so  far  from  home. 

AVandering  up  to  the  upper  deck  where  I 
sleep,  I  found  the  orchestra  grinding  away  mer- 
rily while  such  young  people  as  so  chose  were 
tripping  the  liglit,  fantastic  toe  in  truly  modern 
style.  How  long  the  dance  continued  I  do  not 
know  as  sweet  slee])  intervened  between  me  and 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  75 

the  later  festivities  of  tlie  iiiglit.  I  detail  this 
])ro<2,Tain  simply  to  show  that  comforts,  conven- 
iences, amusements  and  all  such  are  i^rovided 
on  ship  board  for  all  classes  of  people.  You  pay 
your  money  and  take  yonr  choice. 

Pernaps  the  most  interesting  literary  Avom- 
an  that  we  have  aboard  is  Mrs.  Anna  Blake 
Mezquida,  of  San  Francisco.  She  is  a  splendid 
success  as  a  story  writer  and  her  work  appears 
frecpiently  in  high  class  magazines.  She  is  now^ 
engaged  in  movie  work,  reducing  some  of  her 
stories  to  screen  form.  She  has  been  sick  all 
the  way  over,  and  has  not  made  herself  at  all 
conspicuous;  in  fact,  she  is  not  conspicuously 
disposed;  is  a  frail,  little  modest  creature  avIio 
carries  her  literary  success  without  undue  in- 
flation, 

This  brief  little  sketch  of  the  last  day's  do- 
ings at  sea  has  been  finished  since  we  landed 
at  Honolulu.  The  governor's  reception  is  over; 
the  banquet  of  the  evening  has  been  finished; 
it  is  past  midnight  and  I  have  just  come  up  from 
below  where  I  sat  for  a  little  while  by  the  side 
of  Waikiki  beach  under  a  banyan  tree  and  lis- 
tened to  the  surf  beat  its  soft  song  upon  the 
sands  of  the  shore  and  studied  the  silver  ]^ath 
that  stretched  out  across  the  undulating  face 
of  the  Pacific  toward  the  moon  slowly  sinking 
into  the  waters  far  across  the  way.  It  was  a 
dream  picture,  a  visualized  poem  writing  it- 
self deep  into  the  heart. 


76  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XV. 
On  Land  Again 

Honolulu,   October   10,    1921 

This  morning-  before  I  was  up  I  heard  a  boy's 
voice  calling  "Land  ho!"  and,  getting  up  as 
soon  as  I  conveniently  could,  I  found  that  the 
boy  was  right.  "Land  ho!"  was  not  far  from 
us.  On  the  right  the  mountainous  coast  of  Oahu 
reared  itself  and  to  the  left  the  coast  line  of 
Molok-ii,  the  leper  island  was  disapj^earing. 

It  was  not  yet  daylight  and  the  lights  from 
the  light  houses  were  still  blinking.  The  first 
we  saw  was  Mokapuu  light  house,  on  the  point 
of  the  same  name.  This  point  extends  far  out 
to  sea  and  is  an  admirable  and  a  very  necessary 
place  for  a  light  house,  we  would  naturally  as- 
sume. Someone  stated  that  in  times  past,  be- 
fore the  light  had  been  i)ut  there,  two  vessels 
liad  gone  to  wreck  on  it.  Our  ship  traveled 
slowly  along  here,  for  we  were  ahead  of  time. 
We  had  been  billed  for  entrance  into  the  harbor 
at  7:00  to  7:30  o'clock. 

Next  came  Koko  head,  another  mountainous 
point,  and  after  that  we  were  in  sight  of  Dia- 
mond liead  and  Diamond  head  light  house, 
around  Avhich  we  had  only  to  swing  in  order  to 
be  in  sight  of  Honolulu.  We  hurried  below  to 
get  breakfast  and  after  breakfast  the  show  be- 
gan. Even  while  breakfast  was  on  we  heard 
the  whiz  of  an  airplane  and  going  on  deck  again 
we  found  three  airplanes,  two  hydroplanes,  four 
submarines  and  two  Eagle  boats  guarding  our 
craft.  Above  and  on  all  sides  the  airplanes 
were  giving  a  wonderful  exhibition,  flying 
close   to    the    ship   at    times    and    other    times 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  77 

k(M'])iii<>'  lii,i;ii  in  ilie  air  and  "doiiii;'  lliiii.ns." 

( )ti('  by  one  llio  suhiiiarincs  dipped  down  un- 
der tin  water  and  were  gone;  on  the  farther 
side  of  our  boat  we  heard  sini»ino-  and  liurrying 
over  lliere  we  found  tliat  a  small  s^teamer  had 
eonie  out  to  meet  us  brinoinii;'  with  it  a  native 
orchestj-a  and  ehorns.  They  san,i>'  ITaw\niian 
sonii's  from  a  beautifully  bedecked  boat  wdiile 
native  and  white  boys  in  scant  bathing  suits 
dived  from  the  top  of  the  little  steamer  into  the 
ocean  as  carelessly  as  you  and  I  might  step  from 
an  office  into  the  street. 

The  quarantine  boat,  a  IT.  S.  yacht,  came 
close  to  us  and  tw^o  doctors  boarded  and  lined 
us  all  up  for  (piarantine  inspection.  They  were 
not  very  particular  on  this  occasion,  the  per- 
sonnel of  the  visitors  being  such  that  they  did 
not  need  to  fear  anything  very  serious.  That 
was  soon  over  and  we  were  again  back  to  en- 
joy the  amazing  spectacles  which  the  HaAvaiians 
were  staging  for  our  benefit.  Such  ^v^ater  sports 
few  of  us  had  ever  seen  before.  Many  of  us  got 
our  first  glimpse  of  the  outrigger  canoes,  the 
little  craft  that  the  skillful  natives  use  in  rid- 
ing the  surf  and  in  penetrating  to  interesting 
sea  ]wints  on  the  island  coasts  that  cannot  be 
reaclied  by  larger  boats. 

To  the  right,  too,  we  got  our  first  glimpse 
of  Honolulu,  pronounced  here  "Hone-o-lu-lu." 
The  mountainous  coast  line  wdiicli  we  had  pre- 
viously passed  presents  principally  a  barren 
face,  with  here  and  there  evidences  of  rather 
profuse  greenery  in  the  little  valleys.  But  Hon- 
olulu lies,  in  part,  in  a  valley  and  there,  spread 
out  before  us,  when  we  got  in  visual  range  of 
the  city,  was  such  a  glorious  spectacle  of  trop- 
ical beauty  as  few  of  us  had  ever  seen  before. 

Slowly  drifting  in  through  the  harbor  gate 
we  were  met  by  the  small  boy  brigade  of  swim- 


78  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

mers;  tliey  were  of  all  colors,  "and  black," 
black  all  over,  too.  These  little  iads  bad  no 
doubt  been  barred  from  making  the  trip 
farther  out,  but  now  they  were  on  hands,  and 
their  mission  was  to  beg.  All  they  asked  was 
for  the  passengers  to  toss  coins  down  into  the 
ocean;  they  would  see  that  the  coins  never  got 
to  the  bottom. 

I  threw  a  dime  to  a  little  black  fellow;  it 
toiicheci  the  water  a  full  ten  feet  in  front  of 
him,  I  thonght.  Down  went  his  head;  two  little 
black  legs  wiggled  in  the  air  and  then,  they, 
too,  disappeared.  In  a  very  short  while,  np 
popped  the  little  black  boy;  he  held  the  dime 
l)etween  his  tlmmb  and  finger  and  np  where 
T  could  see  it  glisten  in  the  sunlight  and  then 
he  chucked  it  into  his  mouth.  The  last  I  saw 
of  him  he  had  one  side  of  his  mouth  bulged 
out  as  if  it  contained  at  least  a  couple  of  dol- 
lars in  small  coins  and  he  was  still  waiting  for 
more. 

Yes,  I  must  not  forget  that  with  the  recep- 
tion committee  that  met  us  farther  out  was 
Duke  Kahanamoku,  the  champion  sprint  swim- 
mer of  the  world.  Duke  stood  on  the  top  deck 
of  the  ^-eception  steamer,  his  brown,  tense  legs, 
muscular  neck  and  body  standing  out  in  strik- 
ing relief,  as  the  boat  came  in  sight.  When 
within  a  few  rods  of  us  he  sprang  high  and 
far  out  and  dived  deep  into  the  ocean.  He  gave 
a  short  exhibition  of  swimming,  crawling  the 
water  with  an  overhand  stroke  that  carried  him 
with  tlie  speed  of  our  big  boat. 

At  -Ihe  dock  at  Honolulu  an  immense  crowd 
was  awaiting  us  and  as  our  ship  svv^ung  into  the 
narrower  part  of  the  harbor  we  were  saluted  by 
the  whistling  of  the  dozens  of  craft  lying  in 
there,  two  large  oriental  vessels  n'oining  in  the 
penetrating  refrain.  The  native  Hawaiian  band 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  79 

l^layed  patriotic  airs  and  a  g'reat  cliorus  of  lit- 
tle Japniioso  hoys  and  s'ii'l^  di-essed  in  flowing- 
robes  of  briglit  colors  and  waving  the  Hawaiian 
and  onr  national  colors  sang  to  ns.  This  part 
of  the  scene  was  oriental  enongh  in  its  setting  to 
make  a  trip  to  Japan  nnnecessary. 

Soon  we  were  docked  and  down  the  gang 
plank  we  were  welcomed  by  a  reception  com- 
mittee which  directed  ns  to  antomohiles  re- 
served for  the  delegates  and  we  were  bronght 
to  the  Moana  hotel,  Press  Congress  headquar- 
ters. 

The  hotel  is  a  six  story  structure,  built  more 
especially  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists, 
ap])are]itly.  It  does  not  have  the  air  of  a  com- 
mercial hostelry,  but  it  is  large,  roomy,  elegant, 
the  service  fine,  and  the  rates  for  this  occasion 
moderate.  It  is  on  Waikiki  beach,  one  of  the 
famous  lia thing  beaches  of  the  world  and  the 
court  at  the  rear,  within  the  two  arms  of  the 
hotel,  opens  out  flush  on  the  beach,  while  with- 
in the  court  is  a  beautifully  lawned  tract,  with 
banyan  trees,  royal  palms,  shrubbery  of  daintily 
variegated  colors,  flowers  in  a  lavish  profusion, 
and  about,  through  it  all,  settees  looking  out 
upon  the  beach.  This  is  the  center  of  a  verit- 
able riot  of  tropical  shrub  beauty  with  the  add- 
ed attraction  of  the  ocean  sweeping  up  to  the 
very  door. 

From  the  window  of  my  room  I  look  out 
over  the  bay  on  one  side,  while  in  front,  below, 
are  palms  and  vines  and  cocoanut  palms  and 
bread  plant  trees,  banyans,  a  wonderful  wide 
spreading  tree  with  large  red  flowers,  vine  and 
■shrub  smothered  gardens,  and  beautiful  little 
homes  clothed  in  like  manner. 

Beyond  are  the  green  mountains,  parked 
with  small  cultivated  tracts,  here  and  there 
rough  and  rugged,  again  showing  little  homes 


so  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

outstanding'  in  the  background  of  green.  The 
scene  is  rarely  l)eautiful,  liard  to  describe,  and 
yet  just  about  what  one  miglit  expect  in  a  trop- 
ical country  in  which  the  jungle  has  been  con- 
verted into  a  garden,  the  waste  places  made  to 
blossom  harmoniously  and  all  of  it  graced  by 
the  ha]^py  touch  of  beauty  loving  men  and  wom- 
en. The  sun  has  just  gone  down  in  the  bay  and 
catching  the  spirit  of  the  hour  it  glorified  the 
waters  and  the  sky  with  amazing  shades  of  red, 
pink,  lavender,  green,  blue  and  all  the  rest  of 
them,  thrown  together  in  a  mighty  splash. 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  81 


LETTER  XVI. 
The  First  Day  on  Shore 

Honolulu,    October    11,    1921 

Yesterday  afternoon  the  o-ovei'nor's  recep- 
tion was  lield  in  the  s'overnment  building,  for- 
merly the  throne  roooni  of  the  royal  palace. 
That  was  back  in  the  time  when  Hawaii  had 
kings  ^^.nd  queens,  not  so  very  far  away  at  that. 
Gov.  and  Mrs.  Farrington  and  Dean  Walter 
Williams  and  daughter  were  the  receiving 
party  and,  of  course,  we  all  passed  around  and 
shook  liands,  made  some  ])assing  remarks  about 
the  weather,  the  price  of  hogs,  the  crop  pros- 
pects, the  beauties  of  Hawaiian  scenery,  the 
large  size  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  the  result  of  the 
world  championship  ball  games,  etc.,  etc.,  and 
then  passed  on  to  the  kickless  punch  bowl,  got 
a  nice  iittle  sample  cup  of  grape  juice  and  a 
toy  piece  of  cake. 

After  those  onerous  formalities  were  dis- 
posed of  we  were  at  liberty  to  pass  around  thru 
the  throne  room,  feel  of  the  heavy  silk  cover- 
ings of  the  erstwhile  royal  sitting-down-place, 
inspect  the  elaborate  furnishings  of  the  room, 
admire  the  style  of  finish,  the  evident  age  of 
the  wood  used  in  upholstering  the  ceilings,  and 
above  all,  to  look  at  the  great  life  sized  pictures 
of  Hawaiian  royalty  long  since  gathered  to 
their  illustrious  fathers. 

The  first  thing  that  struck  me  as  strange 
was  the  discovery  that  on  the  walls  were  the 
pictures  of  King  itvamehameha  II.  and  his  wife. 
The  inscription  under  each  read  that  they  had 
died  in  London  in  1824,  and  I  noted,  too,  that 
they  died  within  a  few  days  of  each  other.  That 


82  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

was  strange,  and  why  did  tlioy  die  so  nearly  at 
the  same  time.  I  could  not  rest  nntil  I  had 
found  the  answer,  but  I  did  not  find  it  until  I 
had  asked  a  number  who  didn't  know.  Finally, 
one  man  was  found  who  did  know  and  his  story 
was  briefly  this. 

The  missionaries  had  come  to  Hawaii  in 
1820.  They  were  received  kindly  and  were  al- 
ways a  great  influence  for  good  on  the  islands. 
King  Kamehameka  II  learned  from  these  mis- 
sionaries that  there  were  other  interesting  lands 
in  the  world  besides  the  land  of  his  nativity. 
He  was  told  about  the  grandeurs  of  European 
industj-ial,  commercial,  architectural  and  art 
development  and  he  concluded  he  wanted  to 
see  it. 

The  English  were  at  that  time  strong  on  the 
islands  and  the  king  decided  that  he  wanted  to 
go  to  England  and  so  he  and  his  queen  ]^acked 
their  belongings  and  shipped  toward  the  far 
east  to  see  the  world.  In  England  they  con- 
tracted the  measles  and  died,  eacli  without  the 
knowledge  that  the  other  was  gone,  the  deaths 
occurring  some  eight  days  apart.  In  Britain 
the  king  and  queen  had  been  received  at  the 
royal  palace  as  royal  people  and  were  accorded 
all  the  honors  usually  extended  in  favor  of  roy- 
alty. Their  bodies  were  returned  in  state  and 
they  are  now  l)uried  here  with  the  other  kings 
and  (jueens  whose  monarchies  have  long  since 
met  the  inevitable  fate  of  all  other  mortal 
things 

We  find  among  the  pictures,  too,  the  inter- 
esting ])ainting  of  Kamehameka  I  the  king 
who  conquered  Oahu  and  in  so  doing  com- 
pleted Ihe  conquest  of  all  the  islands  and  joined 
them  under  a  monarchy.  That  union  has  never 
ceased,  although  the  form  of  govei*nment  has 
changed.       Kamehameka  I  reigned  from  1782 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  83 

to  1S1!).  hilt  lie  (lid  not  succood  in  iiiakiii.i;'  llic 
islniuls  Olio  i>'oveniiU('iii  until  in  171)3, 

At  iliis  governor's  reeeption  one  was  struck 
by  the  <'rent  nuuil)er  of  nationalities  repre- 
sented h\  tlie  throne  room.  There  were  English, 
French,  Portuguese,  native  Hawaiians,  Japan- 
ese, Chinese,  Norwegians,  Koreans,  people  from 
the  states,  New  Zealand,  Canada,  etc.,  etc.  They 
mingled  in  pleasant  harmony.  There  was  an 
entire  absence  of  formality,  just  a  "general 
good  time"  as  we  say  when  writing  up  an  Iowa 
social  function. 

In  the  evening  at  the  Moana  hotel  a  dinner 
was  given  to  the  delegates  to  the  congress  and 
their  fiiends  by  tlie  Honolulu  committee.  This 
was  the  first  formal  gathering  of  the  Congress 
and  friends  in  Honolulu.  It  was  a  full  dress 
affair  on  the  part  of  those  who  had  such  ar- 
ticles, but  fortunately  the  announcement  had 
said  that  such  a  form  of  dress  was  optional,  so 
those  of  us  who  had  no  full  dress  went  just  the 
same.  All  the  society  of  the  island  of  Oahu 
was  present  and  here  we  discovered  that  many 
of  our  shi])  friends  had  smuggled  fine  clothes 
in  with  them  for  they  appeared  all  dressed  and 
undressed  in  regular  society  form. 

This  writer  and  a  few  others  felt  quite  com- 
monplace mixed  in  with  the  splendidly  arrayed, 
vast  majority  of  those  in  attendance,  but  we 
didn't  Dermit  that  to  scare  us  out.  I  remem- 
bered that  at  a  Masonic  gathering  in  Washing- 
ton, Iowa,  some  few  weeks  ago  a  number  of  us 
had  gone  in  "regular"  clothes  while  a  few 
others  such  as  Will  Bowers,  Leigh  Wallace, 
Alex  Miller,  Jim  Glasgow,  Ellitt  Grayson,  Ralph 
Shannon,  Col.  Wilson,  et  al.,  had  rented  dress 
clothes  and  were  present  in  all  the  radiant  glory 
and  comfort  of  people  who  wear  rented  clothes 
that  don't  fit  them  and  know  that  other  people 


84  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

know  it.  Certainly,  I  tlionglit,  I  oannot  look 
any  worse  at  this  Honolulu  banquet  arrayed 
in  my  "ordinaries"  than  the  above  named  felt 
at  the  Masonic  event  above  referred  to. 

In  the  great  hotel  lobby  the  two  hundred 
people  assembled  prior  to  going-  to  the  dining 
room  made  a  lieautiful  picture.  It  was  all  the 
more  beautiful  because  of  the  cosmo])olitan 
character  of  the  guests.  All  the  society  folk  of 
Honolulu  were  there,  including  among  them, 
Chinese,  Japanese,  native  Hawaiians  and  those 
from  the  states  and  elsewhere  who  had  chosen 
Hawaii  as  their  home.  I  was  standing  in  a 
rather  lonesome  manner  looking  over  the  ex- 
hibits "A,"  "B,"  "C,"  etc.,  and  wondering 
what  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  do  to  show  to 
various  of  the  fully  dressed  and  undressed  folks 
that  I  wasn't  proud,  and  would  talk  to  any  of 
them  when  a  nice  looking  Chinese  man  came 
up  to  me  and  extending  his  hand  said:    "I  am 

Mr. ."    Well,  I  think  he  said  "Chang,"  or 

' ' Lang, "  or  "  Whang, "  or  "  Bang, "  or  "  Fang, ' ' 
or  something.  At  any  rate  his  name  rhymes 
wdth  "gang,"  and  he  wound  up  his  self-intro- 
duction with:  "and,  what  is  your  name." 

I  told  him  my  name,  where  I  was  from,  how 
long  I  expected  to  stay  in  Honolulu  and  engag- 
ing in  a  still  further  conversation  with  him 
learned  that  he  is  a  graduate  of  the  dental  de- 
partment of  Northwestern  College,  Chicago.  A 
dainty  little  oriental  creature  arrayed  in  native 
Chinese  silks  approached  us  and  1  was  intro- 
duced to  Mrs.  "Chang,"  or  "Lang,"  or 
"Grang" — at  any  rate  it  rhymes  with  "sang" 
having  a  very  definite  "ang"  at  the  end  of  it. 
Both,  I  learned  were  born  in  Hawaii,  so  they 
are  Chinese  native  Hawaiians.  I  asked  the  al- 
mond eyed  little  woman  if  she  had  ever  been  in 
America   and   she   informed   me   that   she   had 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  85 

never  been  out  of  Hawaii,  the  island  of  Oaliii. 
T  attempted  to  tell  her  something  about  the 
wonders  of  our  country  and  was  on  the  point 
of  asking-  her  and  lier  husband  to  eome  np  and 
camp  with  us  some  year  during  ehantauqua 
when  the  dinner  call  was  sounded. 

I  was  seated  with  an  lowan  on  one  side  and 
a  Hawaiian  newsi)aper  man  on  the  other  and 
did  not  lack  for  entertainment  during  the  even- 
ing. The  Honolulu  news])a])er  man  is  a  re- 
porter on  the  morning  paper  in  this  city  and  he 
told  me  many  interesting  stories  8 bout  his  in- 
terviews with  notables  who  pass  this  way.  I 
had  not  thought  about  it  before,  but  instead  of 
being  isolated  Honolulu  is  very  much  the  op- 
posite. 

Few  big  vessels  plying  between  San  Fran- 
cisco and  the  orient  fail  to  touch  at  Honolulu, 
and  on  ever^^  big  vessel  there  are  generally  some 
big  men,  or  big  women.  It  is  the  mission  of 
this  reporter  to  see  them  all,  chat  with  them, 
get  interviews,  and  he  admitted  that  that  is 
not  hard  to  do.  By  the  time  they  get  to  Hono- 
lulu from  either  east  or  west  they  are  ready  to 
talk,  and  they  will  talk  to  anybody  Avho  ap- 
proaches them  tactfully  and  avoids  delicate 
topics. 

He  told  me  that  some  leading  Japanese 
statesmen  were  to  pass  through  today  en  route 
to  Washington  and  this  afternoon,  as  we  were 
driving  through  town,  I  noticed  that  there  was 
a  Japanese  steamer,  an  immense  one,  docked 
in  the  harbor. 

Not  long  since  Admiral  Jellico,  of  the  Brit- 
ish navy  passed  this  way;  General  Wood  and 
party;  jajjanese  and  Chinese  officials  are  very 
common  and  Australian  notables  coming  by  way 
of  the  states  or  Canada  never  fail  to  dock  a  few 
hours  at  Honolulu.     Once  in  a  while  a  super- 


86  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

attraction,  such  as  a  Jack  Jolinson,  or  a  movie 
star  of  great  fame  stops  at  the  islands  and 
then  all  Hawaii  is  agog. 

The  conclusion  of  the  dinner  and  the  open- 
ing of  the  formal  program  interrupted  the  very 
interesting  part  of  the  reporter's  story  in  which 
he  was  telling  me  about  Hawaii's  experience 
with  the  big  German  vessel  marooned  in  Hono- 
lulu harbor  during  the  war.  There  was  a  brush 
between  a  German  vessel  and  Japanese  war- 
ships iust  outside  the  three  mile  limit,  to  the 
east  of  Oahu,  and  with  that  success  in  favor 
of  the  Japanese  and  the  internment  of  one  Ger- 
man w:!r  vessel  in  Honolulu  liarbof  the  German 
fleet  passed  off  the  Pacific.  These  rather  thrill- 
ing Pacific  activities  gave  the  Hawaiiaus  a 
taste  of  the  excitement  of  real  war,  long  before 
we  in  th©  states  had  gotten  into  it. 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  8  7 


The  First  Day  on  Shore 

(Continued) 

Honolulu,    October    11,    1921 

Tlie  speaking  })rogram,  after  tlie  dinner  re- 
ferred to  in  the  preceding  letter  was  something 
nni(|ne  in  international  history,  I  helieve.  No 
doubt  there  have  been  some  religions  and  some 
political  assemblies  so  international  in  char- 
acter as  to  include  such  a  variety  of  speakers 
a^  appeared  at  this  dinner,  but  they  have  been 
few  and  far  between.  There  were  speakers  from 
China,  from  the  Philippines,  from  New  Zealand, 
from  Australia,  from  England,  from  Japan, 
from  Spain,  from  Cuba,  from  Canada,  from 
Korea,  from  Greece,  from  Norway,  from  Hawaii, 
from  the  United  States,  and  perhaps  I  have  ov- 
erlooked a  few  others. 

The  splendid  showing  of  the  British  empire 
was  the  subject  of  wide  remark.  Delegates 
from  all  parts  of  the  empire  were  on  hand  and 
in  their  addresses  they  evidenced  a  sincere  sym- 
pathy with  any  movement  that  would  tend  to 
bring  tiie  nations  of  the  world  together  in  a  bet- 
ter understanding  of  each  other  and  in  that 
mannei'  make  for  the  perpetuation  of  cordial  re- 
lations. 

Governor  General  Wallace  R.  Farrington 
presided  and  made  an  address  in  opening  the 
program  which  was  a  revelation  to  many  of  the 
visitors  from  the  states  in  those  particular  feat- 
ures which  had  to  do  with  Hawaii  and  its  con- 
glomerate ])0])ulation.  One  striking  thing 
brought  out  by  Gov.  Earrington,  wliicli  niany 


/ 


88  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

of  lis  had  never  tliQiiglit  about  before,  was  tlie 
success  with  which  the  island  authorities  con- 
trol the  mixed  population  of  the  islands.  In 
fact  there  is  little  need  for  control.  They  be- 
have. They  live  together  in  peace  and  happi- 
ness. 

While  the  United  States  as  a  nation  has  long 
been  looked  upon  as  the  melting  pot  of  the 
world,  yet  Hawaii  stands  as  an  example  of  melt- 
ing pot  utility  that  registers  a  very  much  high- 
er percentage  of  net  results  than  does  the  United 
States  proper.  Here  in  the  islands  of  Hawaii, 
as  our  ]'eaders  will  gather  from  other  parts  of 
this  correspondence,  is  such  a  mixture  of  popu- 
lation as  no  other  United  States  territory  of  like 
total  population  has,  and  I  doubt  if  any  other 
countr>'  in  the  world  has  such  a  complexity  of 
racial  inhabitants,  in  so  narrow  a  space. 

The  native  Hawaiians  are  as  a  race,  gentle, 
companionable,  social,  kind,  company-loving 
people.  They  are  not  Avarriors;  they  are  not 
pugnacious;  they  are  not  aggressive.  They 
are  kindly.  I  am  told  that  the  stranger  entering 
the  native  Hawaiian  gates  is  made  welcome  al- 
ways and  he  is  asked  to  come  in  and  break 
bread,  stay  a  while,  stay  longer,  stay  even  long- 
er. That  prompts  the  speculation  ns  to  whether 
it  may  not  be  possible  that  that  spirit  of  the 
natives  has  had  its  salubrious  effect  upon  all 
the  races  here  gathered  together  in  a  common 
home. 

While  we  know  that  there  are  racial  antag- 
onisms here,  yet  we  do  not  feel  that  they  are  of 
that  violent  type  that  manifests  itself  on  some- 
times rather  slight  provocation  in  the  United 
States  proper.  Certainly  we  of  the  states  can 
well  wonder  how  they  do  it  in  Honolulu.  How 
do  they  get  along  so  well;  how  is  it  that  in  this 
city  of  Honolulu  there  is  less  crime  tlian  in  any 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  89 

other  city  of  its  size  in  tlie  woi'ld  ?  That  is  the 
record  which  tlie  mayor  of  tlie  city  chiiins  for 
Honolulu.  We  met  the  mayor,  Mr.  John  11.  Wil- 
son. He  is  half  Hawaiian  and  half  American,  a 
^•ra dilate  of  Stanford  University,  and  I  have  it 
on  the  authority  of  tliose  who  know  that  he  is 
a  ftood  mayo]',  a  fine,  conscientious  officer  and  a 
gentleman. 

The  Hawaiian's  word  of  welcome  is 
"Aloha,''  a  word  of  greeting,  of  good  cheer,  of 
welcome,  of  goodbye.  It  means  all  that  is  sin- 
cere in  hosintality.  It  is  a  benediction.  Here 
I  might  well  mention  the  fact  that  tJiere  are  but 
twelve  letters  in  the  Hawaiian  alphabet.  They 
include  all  the  vowels.  Consonants  are  not 
needed.  The  few  that  are  used  are  used  under 
protest. 

Governor  Farrington  extended  a  warm  word 
of  welcome  to  the  visitors  from  the  states  and 
the  one  outstanding  point  that  he  brought  out 
in  his  direct  address  to  newspaper  people  was 
that  the  sensible  limitation  of  armaments  in  the 
Avorld  could  best  be  accomplished  by  the  dis- 
armament of  the  press  of  the  world.  The  dis- 
couragement of  jingoism,  by  the  I'ress,  with  a 
greater  effort  to  make  the  people  of  the  differ- 
ent nations  of  the  world  one  in  high  ideals,  and 
more  intimate  in  their  racial  understandings, 
are  essential  to  the  furtherance  of  more  pacific 
conditions  in  the  world. 

Governor  Farrington  was  followed  by  the 
mayor  of  Honolulu  who  deplored  the  fact  that 
he  could  not  offer  the  keys  of  the  city  to  the 
visitors,  simply  because  there  are  no  keys  to 
the  city.  Everything  is  left  open  in  Honolulu. 
They  don't  need  keys. 

Following  the  mayor  came  an  address  of 
welcome  by  the  president  of  the  local  press  club; 
then  tlie  president  of  the  chamljer  of  commerce 


90  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

si)oke  and  after  liim  came  addresses  from  tlie 
different  eonntries  represented.  Is  it  any  won- 
der tint  it  was  well  past  niidniglit  when  the 
festivities  of  this  occasion  were  conclnded.  The 
whole  assemblage  in  perspective  was  pictures- 
que, very  picturesque;  a  sight  never  seen  in 
the  United  States,  unless  under  conditions 
which  inay  sometimes  develop  in  AVashington, 
1).  C,  when  the  various  foreign  representations 
join  with  our  representatives  in  an  official  func- 
tion. 

The  music  of  the  evening  was  furnished  by 
native  Hawaiians,  whose  orchestral  numbers 
were  interspersed  with  those  plaintive  native 
songs  which  always  ai)peal  so  tenderly.  It  was 
a  wonderful  meeting,  deep  in  its  inspirations, 
stuiDcndous  in  its  broadening  effect.  We  were 
in  the  presence  of  the  whole  world;  we  got  flit- 
ting glances  of  the  orient  and  the  Occident  from 
different  angles.  There  was  good  will  in  super- 
abundant quantities  and  I,  for  one,  turned  awa^^ 
from  this  scene  listening  to  the  still,  small  voice 
which  echoed  and  re-echoed  the  sentiment  of 
one  of  the  foreign  speakers  who  insisted  that 
this  is  not  a  world  in  which  to  "live  and  let 
live,"  but  a  world  in  which  to  "live  and  help 
live." 


WITH   WORLD'S   I'RESS   CONGRESS  91 


WALTER    WILLIAMS 
Columbia,    Missouri,    U.    S.    A. 

Light  in  corporeal  equipment,  but  heavy  in  brain. 

The  worthily  popular  president  of  the 

World's  Press  Congress 


92  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XVIII 
First  Session  of  Congress 

At  Sea.    En  Route  to  Hilo,  Oct.   12,   1921 

We  are  at  sea  again.  Early  tliis  morning 
at  three  o'clock  we  pnt  out  from  Honohihi,  for 
a  five  days'  visit  of  the  islands.  The  first  meet- 
ing of  the  World  Press  Congress  was  held  yes- 
terday morning  at  the  hotel  headquarters  at 
10:00  o'clock.  The  meeting  was  called  to  order 
by  President  Williams.  The  first  significant 
incident  of  the  congress  was  the  reading  of  a 
message  from  President  Harding,  honorary 
president  of  the  congress,  by  Governor  Gen- 
eral Farrington.  After  the  reading  of  the 
message  Ed  Medary,  of  Wankon,  leaned  over 
to  me  and  said:  ''That's  a  world  message." 
Indeed  it  was  a  significant,  a  common  sense 
message,  one  which  we  are  going  to  publish  in 
this  connection,  so  that  our  readers,  if  they  have 
not  already  read  it  may  do  so  now.  It  was  as 
follows: 

President    Harding'.s   Message 

The  White  House,  Washington,  D.  C, 
September  10,  1921. 

My  Dear  Governor  Farrington : 

At  one  time  I  dared  to  hope  that  it  might 
be  possible  for  me  to  come  to  Honolulu  at  the 
opening  of  the  Press  Congress  of  the  World, 
and  say  in  person  some  of  the  things  that  I 
think  would  be  appropriate  to  so  notable  an 
occasion.  I  find  it  impossible  for  me  to  be 
away  from  Washington  at  that  time,  and  there- 
fore am  asking  you  to  extend  in  my  behalf  the 
greetings  of  our  government  to  the  delegates, 
and  to  assure  them  of  the  great  importance  we 
attach  to  this  world  gathering  of  representa- 
tives of  the  press. 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS   CONGRESS  93 


I  hope  the  fact  that  I  chance  to  have  been 
most  of  my  life  a  newspaper  man  will  not  have 
distorted  my  judgment  so  far  as  to  cause  me 
to  overrate  the  importance  of  journalism  in 
the  present-day  world.  Not  only  have  the 
World  war  and  the  events  transpiring  since  the 
armistice,  impressed  us  all  anew  with  the  use 
and  value  of  the  public  press,  but  they  have 
demonstrated  the  possible  danger  which  re- 
sides in  a  press  too  freely  employed  for  mere 
propaganda.  In  the  overwhelming  emergency 
of  the  war.  propaganda  became  a  well  nigh 
universal  habit,  I  might  almost  say  a  code, 
among  journalists.  It  was,  of  course,  intend- 
ed to  be  the  propaganda  of  patriotism,  of  de- 
vout nationalism,  of  well-intended  aspiration 
for  the  salvation  of  the  best  in  human  society; 
but  it  was  not  always  extremely  fair,  judicial 
or  discreet.  On  the  whole,  it  served  a  splendid 
purpose  in  the  circumstances  of  war-time,  but 
we  newspaper  men  could  indulge  ourselves  in 
no  more  grievous  error  than  to  assume  that 
propaganda  is  the  first  or  even  a  leading  aim 
of  a  properly  conducted  press. 

Your  own  letter,  which  has  just  come  to 
hand,  concerning  the  educational  conference 
of  this  summer  at  Honolulu,  suggests  to  my 
mind  the  idea  that  might  well  dominate  an 
ideally  conducted  press.  I  cannot  but  feel  that 
the  primary  purpose  of  the  press,  as  a  social 
institution,  is  the  opening  of  men's  minds, 
rather  than  the  closing  of  them.  Propaganda 
aims  primarily  at  shutting  up  the  mind  against 
other  conclusions  than  those  which  the  propa- 
gandist designs  to  implant.  Education  on  the 
contrary,  aims  to  open  the  mind,  to  prepare  it, 
to  make  it  receptive,  and  to  urge  it  to  formu- 
late its  own  conclusions.  Propaganda  would 
at  last  mean  intellectual  paralysis;  education 
is,  when  properly  employed.  Intellectual  stim- 
ulus. It  is  better  that  men  should  think  than 
that  they  should  accept  conclusions  formulated 
by  other  men  for  them. 

We  have  need  in  these  times  that  men 
should  think  deeply,  that  they  should  realize 
the   necessity   of   settling   their    own    problems. 

The  world  has  well-nigh  become  a  great 
aggj-egation  of  democracies.  No  democracy 
will  rise  far  above  the  level  of  its  average 
thinking  capacity,  and  no  aggregation  of  de- 
mocracies will  rise  very  far  above  the  average 
intellectual   ability   of  its  members.      In   short. 


94  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


democracy  has  come  to  its  great  trial,  and  the 
verdict  will  depend  largely  on  its  capacity  to 
make  men  think.  It  is  not  enough  to  say  that 
other  systems,  by  their  very  nature,  discourage 
men  from  thinking,  because  they  aim  to  pro- 
vide organizations  at  the  top  to  do  their  think- 
ing for  them.  That  may  be  true,  but  it  is  no 
answer  to  my  proposition  that  if  democracy  is 
to  succeed  it  must  deserve  success  by  proving 
that  it  can  inspire  the  race  of  common  men 
to  serious,  continuous  effective  consideration 
of  the  problems  of  common  men. 

In  this  work  of  education  nO'  single  force 
or  influence  of  which  we  now  know  can  be  ex- 
pected to  exert  so  great  a  potency  as  the  press. 
Perhaps  the  press  never  confronted  so  great 
an  opportunity  tO'  demonstrate  its  adequacy  to 
this  task,  as  now. 

You  peoples  of  the  Pacific  have  invited  the 
Press  of  the  World  to  be  your  guests,  to  con- 
sider the  problems  of  our  time  and  our  race. 
You  are  meeting  in  a  day  when  the  world  is 
looking  forward  to  the  gathering  of  the  na- 
tions to  consider  limitations  of  armament  and 
the  maintenance  of  world  peace.  If  your  delib- 
erations shall  inspire  a  larger,  a  better,  a  more 
humane  view  of  the  elements  which  enter  into 
the  problem  of  peace  and  at  least  a  measura- 
ble disarmament;  if  you  can  encourage  the 
ideal  of  a  world  permanently  at  peace,  then 
you  will  have  given  a  vast  impetus  to  the  ef- 
forts of  statesmen  who  are  presently  to  con- 
sider these   problems   in  Washington. 

We  have  heard  much  in  recent  years  about 
the  problem  of  the  Pacific,  whatever  that  may 
be.  I  take  it  to  be  merely  a  phase  of  the 
universal  problem  of  the  race,  of  men  and 
nations,  wherever  they  are. 

It  is  hard  to  imagine  justifications  in  this 
day  and  age,  especially  in  view  of  the  world's 
late  unhappy  experiences,  for  armed  conflict 
among  civilized  peoples  anywhere  and  espe- 
cially among  peoples  so  widely  separated  as 
those  on  opposite  borders  of  the  Pacific.  They 
represent  different  races,  social  organizations, 
political  systems  and  modes  of  thought.  Be- 
tween them  and  their  widely  varying  systems, 
there  may  well  be  an  amicable  competition  to 
determine  which  community  possesses  the  bet- 
ter and  more  effective  ideas  for  human  ad- 
vancement. But  that  there  should  be  conflict; 
that   warfare  and  controversy  should   interfere 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  95 


with  this  worth-while  demonstration  of  the 
value  of  different  modes  of  progress,  is  almost 
unthinkable.  The  Pacific  ought  to  be  the  seat 
of  a  generous,  free,  open-minded  competition 
between  the  best  ideals  of  eastern  and  western 
life;  between  the  aspirations  and  endeavors  of 
the  oldest  and  the  newest  forms  of  human  so- 
ciety. 

You  are  meeting  at  the  cross-roads  of  the 
Pacific,  amid  all  the  glamour  and  romance  and 
glory  which  have  always  surrounded  the  very 
name  of  the  South  Sea.  You  have  an  opportu- 
nity to  do  a  work  for  humanity,  and  I  believe 
you  have  met  at  a  peculiarly  auspicious  time. 
I  could  express  no  greater  hope,  no  more  ear- 
nest wish  for  your  congress  than  that  it  might 
prove  the  precursor  of  an  understanding  which 
in  our  day,  in  our  very  tomorrow,  I  may  say, 
would  insure  the  peace  of  the  world,  the  prox- 
imate end  of  the  frightful  waste  of  competing 
armaments,  and  the  establishment  of  peace  on 
earth,  good  will  toward  men. 

Very  sincerely  yours, 

WARREN    G.    HARDING. 
Hon.   Wallace  R.   Farrington, 

Executive   Chamber, 

Honolulu,   T.   H. 

Followini>'  President  Harding's  address, 
President  AVilliams  of  the  Congress  delivered 
his  address  which  was  a  masterful  effort,  and 
I  can  best  convey  to  our  readers  a  definite  idea 
of  the  ideals  toward  which  Mr.  Williams  aspires 
by  quoting  briefly  from  his  address  as  follows: 

From  Walter  Williams'  Address 

A  League  of  Journalists — keeping  open 
and  free  the  avenues  of  world  communication 
and  speaking  just  and  fair  may  do  even  more 
to  preserve  sacred  institutions  of  society,  to 
promote  and  maintain  world  peace,  tO'  give 
larger  life  to  all,  than  even  the  most  skillfully 
balanced  league  or  association  of  nations.  In 
the  last  analysis.  Public  Opinion  rules.  Re- 
corded, crystallized,  interpreted,  expressed  by 
journalism  it  is  supreme.  Ideas,  not  navies, 
rule  the  sea.  Ideas,  not  armies,  dominate  the 
land.  Let  us  disarm  the  typewriters  of  the 
jingo   press   in   every  land   and   limitation   of — 


96  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


nay  abandonment  of  armaments  even  without 
the  Washington  conference  is  an  accomplished 
fact.  Without  the  press'  aid,  whatever  the  wise 
men  at  Washington  may  determine,  there  is  no 
peace;  disarmament  is  an  iridescent  dream. 
Increase  the  avenues  of  communication  be- 
tween nations  and  free  news  sources  from  the 
poison  of  interested  propaganda  and  we  there- 
by help  to  make  a  sick  world  well.  Permit 
these  avenues  to  be  clogged,  congested  and  cor- 
rupted and  the  fever  of  war  returns  apace. 
Open  the  door  of  the  Washington  Conference 
and  to  all  conferences  that  involve  interna- 
tional relations  to  the  press  of  the  world  and 
there  is  great  gain  thereby.  Debate  and  de- 
cide the  destinies  of  people  in  secret  and  be- 
hind closed  doors  and  whatever  the  good  de- 
cision, its  effect  is  weakened  by  the  suspicion 
created  by  the  very  secrecy.  The  war  dogs  are 
unleashed  behind  closed  doors,  not  when  men 
talk  with  frankness  at  a  conference  table 
while  the  world  looks  on. 

Our  meeting  m  this  city  suggests  that  no 
longer  are  the  nations  separate.  No  longer 
may  they  be  unconcerned,  the  one  with  the 
welfare  of  the  other,  for  all  nations  and  all 
peoples  everywhere  are  bound  up  in  the  sure 
bundle  of  the  world's  life.  To  serve  the  life 
of  the  world  and  not  to  do  dis-service  to  those 
who  live  next  door  is  the  high  mission  of  the 
journalism   of  today. 

Impossible,  you  say,  the  accomplishment 
of  such  a  mission.  Nay,  nothing  is  impossible 
to  those  whose  hearts  are  young,  whose  faith 
is  sure,  and  who  have  ever  before  them  the 
vision  splendid  of  the  profession  of  journal- 
ism— journalism,  the  great  unfinished,  fasci- 
nating, new  adventure. 

Aside  from  the  a])i)ointment  of  committees 
there  was  little  more  done  at  this  first  meeting-. 
The  Press  Congress  was  presented  with  a  large 
silver  loving  enp  and  a  symholieal  arch  design 
in  solid  silver,  both  beautifnl  creations,  the  gift 
of  the  officials  of  the  government  of  China  to 
the  Press  Congress.  The  Chinese  representative, 
Mr.  Tong,  made  the  presentation  address.  The 
representative  from  Spain  urged  that  the  next 
Congress  he  held  in  that  city.     The  Philippine 


WITH   WORLDS   PRESS   CONGRESS  97 

rcpresuiilativc  askud  that  it  be  licld  in  Alaiiila, 
There  were  other  invitations,  I  believe,  all  duly 
filed. 

'Not  tlie  least  important  part  of  the  program 
was  tlie  taking  of  moving  i)ietiires  of  the  meet- 
ing. President  Williams,  Gov.  Farrington,  Mr. 
Tong  and  other  officers  were  duly  posed  and 
then  the  movie  man  turned  his  camera  on  the 
common  herd  and  they  were  filmed,  too.  The 
movie  man  advised  us  this  morning  that  the 
films  are  already  on  the  way  to  the  states.  He 
has  promised  to  show  the  pictures  to  the  Con- 
gress with  all  others  taken  by  him,  before  we 
leave.  When  the  Congress  adjourned,  it  ad- 
journed to  meet  the  17th,  after  the  tour  of  the 
islands  has  been  made.  That  trip  includes  visits 
to  Maui  and  Hawaii.  The  latter  named  is  the 
largest  of  the  group  of  islands,  larger  than  all 
the  others  combined. 


98  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XIX. 
Touring  the  Islands 

En     Route,     October     12,     1921 

We  boarded  our  steamer  again  last  evening, 
sleeping  on  tlie  steamer  as  it  was  to  leave  at 
three  o'clock  this  morning  in  order  that  we 
might  get  into  Hilo,  Hawaii,  before  six  o'clock 
this  evening,  when  the  festivities  begin  on  that 
island.  Also,  the  scenery  was  to  begin  at  about 
7  o'clock  and  we  are  having  scenery  all  day; 
scenery  for  breakfast,  dinner  and  supper.  The 
course  taken  Ijy  the  steamer  on  this  occasion  is 
an  unusual  one,  the  deviation  being  made  for 
the  sake  of  the  party.  Ordinarily  the  ships  make 
tlie  whole  trip  at  night,  going  by  the  lee  side  of 
the  islands.  This  time  the  trip  is  being  made 
])y  day  on  the  windward,  the  scenic  side,  of  the 
islands. 

Our  course  lies  to  tlie  north  of  I\Iolokai  and 
Maui  and  around  the  coast  of  Hawaii.  When 
w^e  awoke  this  morning  Molokai  was  in  sight 
and  soon  we  were  drifting  along  a  "rock 
l)ound"  shore,  the  cliffs  rising  sheer  from  the 
water,  sometimes  a  hundred,  maybe  five  hun- 
dred feet.  Farther  back  were  higher  mountains 
covered  with  tropical  greenery,  while  here  and 
there  canyons  broke  the  coast  line  and  occasion- 
al evidences  of  life  were  seen.  Over  the  shore 
walls,  too,  frequent  little  streams  tumble  rol- 
lickingly  down  into  the  ocean.  We  passed  near 
enough  to  the  le])er  colony  to  see  the  buildings 
of  tlie  settlement  and  the  steamer  whistled  a 
cordial  signal  to  the  some  six  hundred  pa- 
tients there. 

There  are  (|iiite  a  number  of  citizens  of  Hon- 


WITH    WORLDS    PRESS   CONGRESS 


99 


O 


100  A  TRIP  TO  THE    HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

oliilii  on  the  Itoat  and  Ave  do  not  lack  for  infor- 
mation as  to  what  there  is  to  see  and  where  to 
look  for  it.  The  leper  colony  is  nestled  on  a 
pretty  little  point  in  a  valley  breaking  ont  thru 
the  coast  line.  It  is  so  pretty  we  are  informed 
that  many  patients  do  not  want  to  leave,  even 
after  they  are  cured,  so  attached  do  lliey  become 
to  the  beautiful  spot. 

We  were  surprised,  too,  at  the  suggestion 
that  lepers  are  cured.  They  are,  or,  at  least,  the 
germ  of  the  disease  is  eliminated  from  the  sys- 
tem and  the  i)rogress  of  the  disease  is  arrested 
to  such  an  extent  that  the  patients  are  safely 
discharged  from  isolation.  The  medicine  used 
is  known  as  "Dean's  Derivative."  It  was  work- 
ed out  by  Dr.  A.  L.  Dean,  President  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Hawaii,  in  the  laboratory  of  the  uni- 
versity. The  basis  is  the  oil  of  the  chaulmoogra 
nut,  long  known  as  a  very  efficacious  curative. 

Where  there  were  some  two  thousand  ]:>a- 
tients  at  the  Molokai  leper  colonies  some  twenty 
years  ago  there  are  now  about  six  hundred,  and 
that  number  is  gradually  being  reduced,  by  the 
treatment  above  referred  to.  Within  sight  of 
our  boat  as  we  skirted  this  coast  were  a  number 
of  fine  large  buildings  erected  by  our  federal 
government  a  few  years  ago,  to  supplement  the 
provisions  already  made  for  caring  for  lepers. 
So  raiiidly  did  the  need  for  the  accommodations 
decline  that  the  government  has  never  yet  been 
called  upon  to  use  the  Iniildings,  and  in  all  prob- 
ability never  will.  They  stand  there  idle  now, 
in  charge  of  a  keeper,  who  has  a  lonesome  ,iob. 

At  the  main  colony,  the  one  above  referred 
to,  there  are  some  86  helpers,  nurses,  caretakers, 
etc.,  with  Dr.  Goodhew  in  charge.  The  little 
town,  Kalaupapa  by  name,  has  its  general  store, 
its  church,  its  moving  picture  show  and  all  the 
comforts  of  home.     Everything  ])ossible  is  done 


WiTil    WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  lUl 

to  make  tliu  lot  of  the  l(j[)ers  as  cointortaljlt'  and 
as  ]ia])i)y  as  possible,  and  the  scenic  sui'round- 
ini>s  aic  as  beautiful  as  a  pleasant  di'eani. 

There  is  a  small  second  colony,  some  few 
miles  away  from  the  main  colony.  At  this  sec- 
ond place  the  incurables  and  the  far  advanced 
are  ke])t.  Those  include  the  patients  who  have 
begun  losing  fingers,  toes,  are  blind,  etc.  This 
part  of  the  colony  is  in  charge  of  Brother  Jos- 
eph Button,  now  over  eighty  years  of  age,  and 
he  has  not  been  away  from  the  place,  not  even 
to  the  adjoining  colony  for  thirty  years.  This  is 
a  life  of  sacrifice  but  there  are  always  those  who 
are  willing  to  make  the  sacrifice.  "Greater 
love  hath  no  man." 

There  is  good  fishing  and  bathing  at  the 
leper  settlements  and  the  patients  have  little 
garden  tracts  which  they  cultivate.  On  this 
side  of  the  island  there  is  an  abundance  of  rain 
and  they  are  therefore  relieved  of  the  need  of 
irrigation,  the  system  that  has  to  be  employed 
just  a  few  miles  over  the  mountains  on  the  other 
side. 

Passing  Molokai,  we  were  in  sight  of  the 
island  of  Hawaii  toward  the  capital  city  of 
which,  Ililo,  we  are  driving  our  course  today. 
The  attractions  at  Hilo  and  other  parts  of  the 
island  are  a  ride  through  the  sugar  plantations, 
a  night  stay  at  the  active  volcano  Kilauea,  with 
various  drives  out  into  lava  infested  districts 
where  nature  has  cut  up  in  an  amazing  way. 
PTawaii  is  the  island  that  carries  the  most  mod- 
ern things  in  the  volcanic  line.  The  one  Ave  are 
to  see  is  the  only  one  in  the  world,  I  believe, 
where  one  can  go  right  i\\>  and  wash  his  hands 
in  molten  lava  and  live  to  tell  the  story  to  his 
friends.  Manna  Loa,  a  mountain  almost  14,000 
feet  high  is  on  this  island.  This  mountain,  too, 
is  a  volcano,  active  fre([uently,  and  when  it  be- 


102  A  TRIP   TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

comes  active,  those  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
move,  temporarily  at  least,  for  it  has  a  large 
flow-'  of  lava  and  an  nnbroken  course  to  pursue 
when  it  breaks  loose. 

Mauna  Kea,  another  mountain,  not  actively 
volcanic,  has  been  in  sight  all  day.  It  has  snow 
on  it,  indicating  that  its  summit  does  invade 
the  chilly  realms  of  the  higher  air  in  faithful  ac- 
cordance with  the  claims  of  the  informed  resi- 
dents of  this  connnunity.  Here  as  in  our  west- 
ern country  in  the  I^'nited  States  it  is  sometimes 
hard  to  believe  that  distances  are  as  great,  or 
heights  as  sublime,  as  it  is  claimed  for  them. 
They  don't  look  it. 

The  city  of  Ililo  and  Hilo  bay  are  now  in 
sight.  Here  we  are  to  disembark  and  attend  a 
reception  given  by  the  Hilo  yacht  club  this  ev- 
ening. The  boat  is  slow  about  docking,  since 
the  water  is  shallow.  On  the  dock  the  Hawaiian 
county  band  is  playing  lively  airs  of  welcome. 
There  is  a  great  crowd  awaiting  ouy  arrival  and 
the  outlook  for  lively  entertainment  is  good. 
Hawaii  is  the  largest  of  all  the  islands  and  the 
amount  of  land  under  cultivation  is  greater  than 
that  on  any  of  the  other  islands.  Hilo  is  the  prin- 
cipal city  and  the  one  city  that  has  docking  ac- 
commodations for  vessels  as  large  as  the  Mat- 
sonia,  or  in  other  words,  ocean  going  vessels. 
Inter-island  boats,  much  smaller,  touch  at  var- 
ious smaller  ])laces  around  the  island. 

On  this  island  Captain  Oook,  who  rediscov- 
ered the  islands  in  177!»  was  killed  l)y  the  na- 
tives, at  a  point  now  covered  by  the  village  of 
Jealakekua.  Perhaps  I  have  mentioned  before 
that  the  islands  were  originally  discovered  from 
the  east  by  a  S])anish  ex])lorer,  Juan  Gaetano,  in 
1555.  In  1557  a  Spanish  vessel  was  lost  off  the 
Hawaiian  coast  and  it  seems  to  have  carried 
the  leading  s])irits  in   the   ex|)loraticns   for  at 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  103 

that  point  Spain  (lr()|)|)(Ml  out  of  tlio  limelight  in 
connection  with  llawiian  devclopniont  and  Cap- 
tain Cook  next  came  on  the  scene.  From  tlie 
time  of  Ca])tain  Cook  Hawaii  a,i>'ain  l)ecame  a 
part  of  the  known  worki. 

Well,  we  are  getting  nearer  and  nearer  to 
the  shore.  The  mobs  at  the  wharf  are  cheering 
lustily;  the  band  still  plays  with  careless  aban- 
don as  to  whatever  else  is  happening.  It  is  evi- 
dent that  there  is  to  be  something  doing  here. 
We  will  therefore  stoi3  right  here,  for  the  time 
being,  and  give  closer  attention  to  the  immed- 
iate details  of  the  program  prepared  by  the  Hilo 
people. 


104  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XX. 
An  Evening-  at  Hilo 

Honolulu,    October    18,    1921 

Tlie  activities  of  the  inter-island  tour  made 
tlie  writing-  of  letters  during  that  period  an  im- 
possibility if  one  was  to  keep  np  with  the  pace 
set  by  the  entertainers;  so,  here  we  are  back  in 
Honolnlu  with  the  task  of  making  a  feeble  ef- 
fort to  describe  some  of  the  wonders  seen  and 
the  courtesies  enjoyed  on  Hawaii  still  undone. 
The  last  word  written,  if  I  remember  correctly, 
was  at  the  point  where  we  were  about  to  disem- 
bark at  Hilo,  the  capital  city  of  the  island  of 
Hawaii. 

Yes,  I  mentioned  that  the  band  was  playing, 
and  that  there  was  a  great  crowd  at  the  dock 
and  that  people  were  yelling  and  singing  and 
having  a  gay  time  generally.  I  might  add  that 
Hilo  is  a  city  of  10,000  jDopulation,  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a  deep  bav,  and  a  great  break- 
water which  cost  about  $3,000,000.00  in  the 
Iniilding,  gives  the  city  a  splendidly  sheltered 
deep  water  port. 

Before  going  farther  here  I  will  mention,  too, 
tliat  I  watched  with  very  great  interest,  on  one 
or  two  occasions,  while  in  this  port,  the  load- 
ing and  unloading  of  freight  from  our  vessel. 
The  wharf  at  Hilo  is  an  immense  structure  and, 
observing  the  piles  of  merchandise  scattered 
around,  we  assumed  at  once  that  there  must  be 
considerable  shipping  at  Hilo.  Certainly, 
there  is.  Great  boxes  and  bundles  of  merclian- 
dise  were  lifted  from  the  hold  of  the  Matsonia 
for  hours  interminable,  it  seemed.  Always  when 
we  came  back  to  the  boat  we  found  the  ''der- 


WITH    WOIILUS    PRESS    CONGRESS 


105 


A    HILO    BEAUTY 

She  did  not  go  to  the  World's  Press  Congress; 
the  Congress  went  to  her 


106  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

ricks"  at  work.  Great  rope  baskets  were  let 
down  through  the  hatchways  and  loaded  and 
then  lifted  np  and  swung  out  over  the  wharf 
and  let  down  to  the  men  below,  who  in  all  in- 
stances were  Japanese,  Chinese,  native  Hawai- 
ians,  or  some  other  foreign  nationality. 

I  have  no  way  of  knowing  just  what  the  men 
were  unloading  from  our  ship.  I  take  it  though 
that  in  most  part  it  was  merchandise  from  the 
states.  Since  it  was  in  boxes  and  sacks,  and 
crates,  I  could  not  well  tell  just  what  the  con- 
tents were.  There  was  one  shipment  which  I 
did  recognize  though.  Glancing  forward  at  one 
time  I  noticed  a  "Ford"  dangling  in  the  air. 
It  had  just  been  swung  uj)  from  the  hold  of  the 
vessel  and  was  when  I  observed  it  moving  gent- 
ly down  toward  the  floor  of  the  dock,  prepara- 
tory to  taking  out  its  Hawaiian  natui'alization 
])apers.  Cables  from  the  four  corners  of  the 
Ford  held  it  gently  as  it  dropped  to  the  floor 
l)elow.  There  was  not  just  a  single  Ford  in 
this  shipment,  though.  There  were  some  eight 
or  nine  of  them.  A  full  family  it  seems  had 
emigrated  in  this  ship  to  the  Paradise  of  the 
Pacific.  So  gently  were  they  handled  by  the 
men  unloading  the  vessel  that  not  one  of  the 
little  birds  was  hurt  and  the  last  I  saw  of  them 
they  were  being  whirled  gaily  up  street,  three 
in  a  row,  drawn  by  a  fully  naturalized  Ford 
driven  by  a  smiling  faced  brown  boy.  One  hun- 
dred thirty  thousand  bags  of  sugar  were  loaded 
on  our  ship  while  it  stood  at  Hilo  awaiting  our 
return. 

But  we  are  far  from  the  subject.  As  soon 
as  we  were  docked  a  reception  connnittee  from 
Hilo  came  aboard  and  the  usual  formalities  of 
such  occasions  were  observed.  There  were 
s])eeches  and  more  speeches  and  ladies  bedeck- 
ed the  visitors  with  the  end)lem  of  welcome  in 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  107 


this  country,  collars  of  flowers,  or  of  fancifiiU}^ 
designed  |)a])er.  Then  at  7:15  o'clock  we  all  dis- 
embarked and  were  di'iven  in  antomobiles  to  the 
Hilo  Yacht  Club,  on  llilo  Bay,  where  there  was 
a  general  recei)tion  and  a  concert  by  the  Haili 
Churcli  All-Hawaiian  Choir.  This  choir  re- 
ceived the  first  iionors  this  year  in  the  contests 
between  singing  gronps  from  all  parts  of  the 
islands.  The  singing  is  typically  Hawaiian,  of 
tlie  best  type. 

It  is  difficult  to  find  words  with  which  to 
describe  the  beauty  of  the  scene  that  greeted  us 
at  the  Hilo  Yacht  Club  grounds.  There  we  had 
as  almost  everywhere  else  tropical  trees  and 
plants  in  glorious  profusion,  with  the  added 
touch  of  designedly  artistic  arrangements. 
There  were  the  cocoanut  palms,  the  royal  palms, 
the  banyan  tree,  great  speary  plants  and  be- 
f lowered  hedges.  To  this  was  added  an  elec- 
trical illumination  which  made  the  scene  en- 
trancing. An  out  door  natural  auditorium  was 
seated  for  the  accommodation  of  the  visitors. 
After  a  brief  address  of  w^elcome  by  the  ]^resi- 
dent  of  the  chambei-  of  commerce,  supplemented 
by  an  address  of  welcome  delivered  by  the  pas- 
tor of  the  Hawaiian  church  in  the  Hawaiian 
tongue,  we  listened  to  the  concert.  There  were 
some  twenty  male  and  female  voices  in  the 
choir,  middle  aged  and  young.  It  would  be 
idle  to  say  that  never  was  such  singing  heard 
before,  but  to  our  delegation  from  the  far  north, 
suddenly  dro])ped  down  into  this  strangely  al- 
luring tro])ical  scene  and  listening  to  splendidly 
harmonizing  voices  singing  plaintive  songs  in  a 
sweet,  simi)le  language,  under  soft  skies  with 
tender  sea  breezes  gently  fanning  our  faces,  the 
music  did  seem  unspeakably  sweet. 

It  is  needless  to  admit  that  here  we  spent  a 
most   delightful   evening,  enjoying  the  singing 


108  A  TRIP  TO  THE    HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 


and  the  situation.  The  closing  part  of  the  pro- 
gram was  unique  in  its  appeal,  too.  It  was  a 
tableau,  pnt  on  by  the  Hawaiians  illustrating 
certain  official  honors  that  were  paid  to  the 
Hawaiian  rulers  in  ancient  times.  The  Hawai- 
ian minister  announced  the  performance  and  ex- 
plained in  detail  the  several  parts  of  the  cere- 
mony. He  explained,  too,  that  one  feature  of 
the  ceremony  was  the  hula-hula  dance;  which  in 
this  instance  would  l)e  put  on  in  a  refined  man- 
ner by  a  little  girl. 

The  only  criticism  of  the  evening's  enter- 
tainment which  I  heard  was  made  liy  one  of  the 
hard  boiled  members  of  our  delegation  who  ob- 
jected to  the  hula-hula  in  its  "refined"  form. 
Always  in  a  crowd  of  this  kind  and  size  you  will 
find  some  one  to  take  exception  to  the  way 
things  are  done.  As  for  the  most  of  us  we  liked 
the  hula-hula  in  its  refined  form  as  well  as  we 
would  had  it  been  presented  by  the  unrefined. 
The  little  brown  girl,  arrayed  in  the  grass  skirt 
common  to  the  original  Hawaiians  put  on  a 
beautiful  little  dance  while  the  other  scenes  of 
the  ceremony  were  so  primitive  in  their  stage 
settings  and  api^earance  as  to  carry  us  all  away 
back  in  our  thoughts  to  that  time  before  Ca]v 
tain  Cook  had  been  used  as  a  pin  cushion  by 
the  peeved  natives  who  took  exception  to  some 
of  the  doings  of  their  visitors  from  a  distance. 

It  must  be  said  in  explanation  here,  though, 
that  as  we  understand  it,  the  native  Hawaiians 
were  never  savage,  never  vicious.  We  have  ex- 
plained elsewhere  that  they  were  always  a  gen- 
tle, peace  loving  liospitable  people.  Of  course, 
they  could  stand  so  much,  no  more,  and  under 
certain  provocations  they  sometimes  rebelled 
and  would  have  revenge.  Eeally,  the  story  of 
their  experience  is  a  sad  one.  So-called  civiliz- 
ation has  been  their  undoing  as  a  race.     When 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRKSS   CONGRESS  100 


llic  islands  were  (lis('()\ ctcmI  llicrc  were  aWout 
L^()(),00()  natives,  as  nearly  as  could  be  estimated. 
Now  there  ai'e  about  2r),()00. 

Civilization  lias  dissipated  tliom.  AVlien  dis- 
covered tliey  were  a  liealtliy  })eople.  'i'lie  dis- 
coverers brought  disease  to  the  islands;  brought 
diseases  that  made  rapid  inroads  into  their  num- 
bers. Naturally  a  somewhat  careless  peo])]e, 
easy  going,  trustful,  they  easily  fell  the  victims 
of  debauchery  and  during  that  period  when  it 
Avas  often  said  that  there  was  no  God  in  the  Pa- 
cific, thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  of  na- 
tives of  the  Pacific  islands  were  burned  upon 
the  altar  of  sensual  sacrifice. 


110  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXL 
Along-  the  Coast  of  Hawaii 

Honolulu,   October  18,    1921 

I  foro'ot  to  mention  in  the  preceding  letter 
til  at  after  the  concert  by  the  Hawaiian  choir, 
and  the  tableau,  there  was  dancing  in  the  club 
house  to  Hawaiian  music.  Several  of  us  hav- 
ing left  our  dancing  pumjis  at  home  did  not  par- 
ticipate in  those  festivities,  but  wandered  about 
through  the  gTOunds,  looked  out  upon  the  glis- 
tening sea  and  thought  of  home  and  dear  ones, 
once  in  awhile,  too.  What  we  needed  most  of 
all  to  perfect  the  evening  was  the  presence  of 
those  dear  to  us  to  join  in  drinking  of  the 
Ijeauty  and  fragrance  and  tropical  sweetness 
so  inexhaustibly  served  by  nature  on  this  occas- 
ion in  this  place. 

Free  automol)iles  took  us  back  to  our  ship 
and  early  the  next  morning  a  special  train,  car- 
i-ying  o])en  faced  cars,  drawn  by  an  engine  fired 
l)y  oil,  thus  insuring  the  absence  of  cinder  show- 
ers on  our  trip,  drew  up  to  the  wharf  and  we 
Avere  off  for  a  ride  up  the  coast  over  what  is 
known  as  the  Laupahoehoe  line.  Well,  this  was 
a  beautiful  trip,  too.  I  do  not  think  that  we 
were  out  of  sight  of  the  sea  at  anv  lime  except- 
ing when  we  went  through  a  couple  of  tunnels 
and  occasionally  when  we  were  in  a  deep  cut. 
The  tunnels  and  cuts  were  made  through  vol- 
canic rocks,  so  there  was  no  danger  of  slides, 
and  the  cuts  often  rose  sheer  above  us  some 
thirty  to  forty  feet. 

The  road  extends  up  through  great  sugar 
l^lantations  across  many  deep  ravines  on  high 
bridges.  These  bridges,  some  of  them  were 
over  two  hundred  feet  high,  one  was  220  feet 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  111 

lii^li,  ;iii(l  some  were  as  long  as  lUOO  feet.  For 
the  aeeominodatioii  of  ilie  ])liotograi)hers — we 
had  two  professionals  with  ns,  one  movie  man 
representing-  the  Patlie  people — the  train  was 
freciiiently  sto])ped  on  the  high  bridges.  That 
gave  the  i)liotographers  the  oi^portunity  to  get 
particnlarly  striking  pictures  and  also  permit- 
ted the  other  passengers  of  the  train  to  specu- 
late on  the  possible  damage  to  rolling  stock  in 
the  event  the  train  should  jum])  the  track,  when 
it  started  u]),  and  ]ilunge  to  the  bottom  of  the 
ravine.  I  might  also  explain  that  other  por- 
tions of  this  track  runs  along  the  tops  and 
faces  of  high  bluffs  from  which  one  may  look 
straight  down  into  the  blue  waters  of  the  Pa- 
cific. We  were  informed  by  our  guides  that 
some  of  these-  precipices  around  which  we  mer- 
rily spun  were  only  two  hundred  feet  high.  Of 
course,  a  train  dropping  off  the  track  at  one  of 
those  points  and  splashing  down  into  the  sea 
would  rudely  disturb  the  fish. 

We  passed  through  several  villages,  saw  a 
number  of  sugar  mills  and  were  interested  in 
the  system  of  cane  floats  which  are  built  all 
across  that  ijart  of  the  country.  There  is  no 
way  of  transporting  the  cane  from  the  fields  to 
the  mills  excepting  by  floating  it  down  through 
flumes,  some  large,  some  small.  That  is,  that 
has  been  discovered  to  be  the  most  practical, 
most  economical  way  to  transport  the  cut  cane. 
The  result  is  that  everywhere  one  sees  the  lit- 
tle flumes,  far  below,  high  above,  the  cane  float- 
ing down  toward  the  mill  hidden  away  some- 
where in  the  distance.  At  one  ])lace  we  saw 
where  the  flume  carried  the  cane  to  the  bottom 
of  a  valley  and  then  an  elevator  system  carried 
it  up  over  tlie  intervening  hill  and  no  doubt 
dro])ped  it  into  another  flume  on  the  other  side 
for  a  continued  water  trip  to  the  mill. 


112  A  TRIP   TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

The  sugar  cane  fields  do  not  look  inviting 
as  places  to  work.  Thereby  hangs  a  tale,  of 
course;  the  tale  of  the  labor  situation  in  Hawaii. 
This  labor  can  be  done  only  by  the  yellow  race, 
it  appears.  The  whites  cannot  stand  the  work; 
the  Filipinos  do  not  take  to  it ;  only  the  Japs  and 
the  Chinese  can  do  it.  They  are  therefore  es- 
sential to  the  industry.  Is  it  any  wonder  that, 
gaining  intelligence,  through  education,  they 
show  some  signs  of  taking  advantage  of  their 
advantage? 

This  trip  gave  the  best  view  of  sugar  plan- 
tations that  we  have  yet  had;  it  combined  with 
that,  too,  rare  opportunities  to  see  the  beauties 
of  the  scenery  along  this  side  of  the  Hawaiian 
coast.  And,  indeed  it  was  beautiful,  much  more 
l)eautiful  in  perspective,  than  otherwise,  for  the 
closer  inspection  of  the  beautiful  cane  fields  al- 
ways showed  a  density  of  growth  that  suggests 
a  niian-killing  job  working  in  it.  There  is  heat 
and  humidity  there  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
satisfy  the  whims  of  the  most  enthusiastic  vot- 
ary of  the  steam  bath  as  a  means  of  relieving 
human  ills. 

This  trip  was  made  in  about  four  hours  and 
on  our  return  to  Hilo  we  were  taken  to  the  Hilo 
hotel  where  a  dinner  was  served  to  the  members 
of  the  press  party  by  the  people  of  Hilo.  This 
was  a  delightful  repast,  free  from  prolonged  or 
sleep  producing  speech  making  and  was  a  very 
happy  termination  to  that  part  of  the  i)rogram 
with  which  the  people  of  Hilo  had  immediate 
connection  at  that  time.  Our  next  trip  was  to 
be  to  one  of  Hawaii's  greatest  of  wonders,  the 
active  volcano  Kilauea.  This  I  might  add,  is 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  It  is  one  of 
the  things  that  has  made  Hawaii  famous  in  a 
world  wide  manner.  The  fame  is  not  misplaced 
in  the  oi)inion  of  the  members  of  the  press  party. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  113 


LETTER  XXII. 
The  Volcano  Kilauea 

Honolulu,    October   18,    1921 

The  only  tame  volcano  in  the  world.  The 
only  active  volcano  that  you  can  walk  right  np 
to  and  pat  on  the  head  and  say,  "  Be  a  nice  little 
volcano  now  and  don't  act  up  violently,  until 
we  have  time  to  get  away;"  and,  it  never  does. 
Always,  it  gives  people  time  to  get  out  of  the 
danger  zone  before  it  belches  up  its  millions  of 
tons  of  red  hot  lava  and  starts  to  rolling  it  be- 
yond its  regular,  immediate  bounds.  That  is  the 
volcano  "Kilauea,"  meaning  in  the  language 
of  the  Hawaiians,  "Beware." 

And  it  was  to  see  this  volcano  that  we  left 
the  dinner  given  in  our  honor  at  the  Hilo  hotel 
rather  early  and  taking  automobiles  started 
from  sea  level  for  a  drive  of  about  thirty  miles, 
up  to  an  elevation  of  a  little  over  four  thousand 
feet  to  Crater  hotel,  on  the  edge  of  the  volcano 
above  named.  The  drive  was  at  first  through 
cane  fields,  later  through  little  forests  of  scrub- 
by pines,  and  still  later  through  fern  lanes,  the 
ferns  being  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  literally 
fern  forests. 

Some  cattle  grazed  on  the  hills.  There  was 
no  other  show  of  life  excepting  at  a  few  small 
settlements,  some  of  them  on  the  railroad  that 
runs  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  volcano,  and 
others  to  accommodate  the  various  families  who 
summer  at  the  higher  elevations  to  escape  the 
heat  below.  There  is  a  good  road  out  to  the  vol- 
cano. For  several  miles  out  of  Hilo  it  is  con- 
crete, and  I  think  the  plan  is  to  complete  a  con- 
crete read  out  to  the  hotel.    At  worst,  however- 


114 


A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


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WITH   WORLDS   PRESS   CONGRESS  115 

tlic  rojul  is  iiol  l:;ul,  siiici'  tlic  rc.^ioii  is  xolcniiic 
and  immodiatoly  holow  tlio  tliin  soil  is  the  lava, 
a  ii,'00(l  hard  loail  toiindalioii. 

The  di-i\('  to  tlic  N-olcnno  is  steadily  ii]),  al- 
tlioiii>li  one  is  liardly  eoiiscioiis  of  the  rise,  so 
Tef2,'idar  is  it.  The  aiitoiiiohile  shows  the  effect 
of  the  eliinl).  tlioii,i>,'h,  and  ours,  before  we  fj,'ot  to 
the  end  of  the  drive,  was  almost  a,  volcano  in 
itself,  so  vi,:oT.rons  was  the  expulsion  of  steam 
from  the  radiator. 

There  is  nothino-  al^oiit  the  a])pearanee  of 
thing's  as  one  apDroaehes  the  universal  d(^stin- 
ation  of  all  visitin^'  travelers  here  to  indicate 
that  one  is  in  a  ])art  of  the  country  especially 
distinguished  from  any  other  of  the  many  in- 
teresting parts.  Suddenly,  though,  we  come  to 
a  little  more  thicklv  poDulated  ])art.  There  are 
some  rather  neatly  ke])t  cottages;  and  an  occas- 
ional smiling  face  greets  us  from  a  nearby  cot- 
tage veranda,  such  a  face  as  prompts  the  per- 
fectlv  natural  surmise  that  some  one  is  planted 
there  for  a  s]")ecial,  transitory  puri:>ose.  It  may 
have  been  the  face  of  an  Iowa  school  teacher 
that  smiled  to  us  at  one  point,  but  we  didn't 
stop  to  investigate.    We  drove  on. 

Soon  we  came  in  sight  of  a  rather  roomily 
spread  building.  ''The  hotel."  our  brown  driver 
commented,  and,  incidentallv,  we  might  men- 
tion that  he  was  a  man  of  few  words  and  far 
between.  But,  we  were  nearing-  our  destination 
and  di])lomacv  dictated  that  he  should  begin  to 
show  a  little  interest  in  us.  That  show  of  con- 
cern might  T)romi)t  us  to  sliv)  him  a  coin  or  two 
in  ai^preciation  of  his  consideration. 

Yes.  we  wei'f  soon  at  th''>  hotel.  I  stei^ned 
out  of  the  car.  From  the  wall  at  the  left  a  slight 
smoke  was  issuing.  I  ])laced  my  hand  over  it 
and  immediately  the  hand  broke  into  a  sweat. 
The  smoke  was  steam.    On  everv  hand,  far  and 


116  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

near,  at  .short  distances  apart,  smoke  and  steam 
was  oozino-  from  the  ground.  I  looked  down  to 
the  left  over  the  shrub  covered  hill  and  beyond 
a  certain  line  of  clear  demarkation  there  spread 
a  solid,  rolling  black  plain  of  "vegetationless" 
ground,  or  stone.  It  was  lava,  some  of  it  so  re- 
cent a  deposit  as  within  the  past  five  months. 
This  gi-eat  field  of  lava  covers  2,650  acres.  The 
sides  about  it  are  from  100  to  700  feet  high  and 
the  whole  is  about  eight  miles  in  circumference. 

The  first  view  of  the  volcano  is  rather  dis- 
appointing for  when  we  speak  of  a  volcano,  we 
expect  to  see  a  mountain,  with  a  smoke  stack  on 
top  of  it  from  which  an  occasional  outbreak  re- 
sults in  a  great  stream  of  lava  belching  from 
the  top  of  the  inverted  cone  and  running  like 
mad  down  the  side  of  the  mountain  and  extend- 
ing on  and  on,  threatening  villages  and  every- 
thing else  devourable. 

We  have  explained  though  that  this  is  a 
tame  volcano.  It  is  not  built  exactly  as  some 
other  volcanoes  are  built.  It  has  a  way  all  its 
own  and  as  a  result  it  is  all  the  more  interest- 
ing. Away  across  the  black  field  of  lava,  ap- 
parently beyond  the  center  of  the  broad  ex- 
panse, we  notice  at  one  point  a  segregated 
smoke  center.  From  that  point  there  is  a  con- 
stant rise  of  rather  dense  smoke  and  steam. 
That  is  the  center  of  the  whole  commotion.  It 
is  the  crater,  called  in  the  language  of  the  Ha- 
waiians  ''Halemaumau,"  the  ''House  of  Ever- 
lasting Fire." 

(Later — At  the  above  point,  gentle  reader,  I 
was  interrupted.  The  telephone  bell  in  my  room 
in  the  hotel  rang  and  ansAvering  it  I  was  greet- 
ed with  the  inquiry:  "Is  there  a  typewriter 
ODeratin.o-  in  your  room?"  To  that  charge  I 
had  to  admit  guilt  and  I  was  then  infonned  that 
a  com])laint  liad  come  from  adjoining  rooms  to 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  117 

tlie  Jiotel  office  to  the  effect  that  the  sleep  of  the 
<)('('iii)ants  of  the  rooms  was  being  disturbed,  by 
I  lie  above  mentioned  typewriter.  The  consider- 
ate voice  over  the  line  suggested  that  if  I  would 
close  the  transoms  of  my  room,  maybe  I  could 
get  by  with  the  noise  awhile  longer.  I  assured 
tlie  voice  that  I  would  "cut  off  for  the  night, 
and  all  was  well.  Glancing  at  my  watch  I  was 
surprised  to  note  that  we  were  just  upon  the 
threshold  of  midnight,  an  early  hour  for  any- 
one to  want  to  sleep  in  such  a  night-beautiful 
world  as  this.  But  I  went  to  bed  and  tried  to 
sleep.  Below  I  heard  the  pounding  of  w^aters 
and  I  was  moved  to  go  to  the  telephone  myself 
and  bombard  the  clerk  below  with  some  such 
query  as:  "Isn't  there  an  ocean,  or  something- 
down  there  in  the  back  yard?  It  won't  let  me 
sleep.  Can't  you  ask  it  to  put  down  its  tran- 
soms?" But  I  didn't.  I  listened  to  the  incess- 
ant beat  of  the  surf  against  the  shore  below  until 
it  became  a  sort  of  a  soothing  lullaby  that  in 
the  end  hurried  me  off  to  sleep,  I  think.  This 
morning  the  surf  is  still  beating  upon  the  shore ; 
it  has  been  doing  the  same  thing  ever  since  we 
came.  It  is  presumed  that  it  did  the  same  thing 
steadily  for  several  thousand  years  before  w^e 
came  and  that  it  will  go  on  doing  so  without 
pausing  for  breath  for  thousands  of  years  more. 
I'm  sorry  the  night  clerk  interrupted  me  last 
night  for  I  was  just  getting  a  good  second  vis- 
ion of  the  volcano  when  that  bell  rang.  I  don't 
know  if  I  can  conjure  up  the  details  of  the 
experience  so  well  this  morning,  or  not,  but  in 
the  next  installment  of  these  epistles  I  will  try.) 


118  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXIII. 
The  Volcano  Kilauea 

(Continued) 

Honolulu,   October   19,   l!i21,   Daylight 

AVliere  was  it  I  left  off?  Oli,  yes,  just  after 
I  mentioned  the  name  of  the  inner  crater: 
"Halemamnan,"  the  "House  of  Everlasting' 
Eire."  We  had  just  glanced  across  the  field 
of  lava  toward  that  center  of  interest,  but  Avere 
not  to  go  that  way  yet.  We  had  to  register  at 
the  hotel  and  it  was  not  very  long  until  dinner 
time  (sui)per  at  our  house),  so  Ave  would  have 
to  delay  our  excursion  to  the  heart  of  the  scene 
until  a  little  later.  In  the  meantime  there  was 
an  op}iortunity  to  walk  about  in  the  nearer  vi- 
cinity of  the  hotel  and  ex])lore  thos?  parts.  Just 
a  short  distance  away,  ]ierliaps  a  hundred  yards, 
was  an  interesting  grou])  (^f  sul])hur  ]:)its.  These 
were  deep  holes  emitting  sulphur  fumes  in 
streams  of  hot  smoke.  One  a])])roached  them 
with  considerable  timidity  for  they  smelt  and 
looked  so  like  something  so  nearlv  connected 
with  things  infernal  as  to  give  us  pause. 

We  were  Avarned  not  to  iuA^ade  the  shrub 
grown  |)arts  of  the  ground  thereabouts,  for 
there  are  hidden  creA^asses,  in  the  thick  growths 
of  Amines  and  small  trees  into  Avhich  one  might 
slip  and  in  doing  so  he  Avould  in  all  ]jrobability 
suffer  seA^ere  burns  befoi-e  he  could  be  rescued 
from  his  plight. 

There  is  a  Avell  marked  trail  from  the  Xol- 
cano  house  doAvn  over  the  two  hundred  foot 
wall,  Avhich  leads  to  the  main  crater.  This  trail 
leads  under  Ioav  growing  ''lehna  trees  and  by 
manv    sturdv    little    A'ellow-green    sandalwood 


WITH    WORLD'S    I'KESS   CONGRESS 


119 


120  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

trees"  and  directly  to  the  shore  of  the  lava 
field.  There  is  a  ]3atli,  too,  across  this  lava 
field  leading  to  the  crater.  A  bridge  or  two 
over  large  fissures  in  the  lava  are  all  that 
is  required  beyond  the  natural  lava  foot- 
ing. At  intervals  all  over  this  lava  field 
are  spots  from  which  hot  steam  arises  and  there 
is  no  doubt  but  that  a  very  few  feet  down  there 
is  intense  heat.  The  surface  though  is  cool  and 
perfectly  safe  for  navigation,  by  pedestrians. 

Only  one  instance  is  recorded  in  modern 
times  in  which  visitors  across  the  lava  field  to 
the  inner  crater  came  near  to  disaster  by  rea- 
son of  the  misbehavior  of  the  volcano.  This 
party  had  walked  across  the  upper  crater  over 
the  lava  to  the  inner  crater  and  charmed  by 
the  strange  scenes  they  had  stayed  on  and  on 
until  far  into  the  night.  Returning  by  lantern 
light  across  the  path  which  they  had  traversed 
in  their  approach  to  the  crater  they  suddenly 
found  their  way  blocked  by  a  large  crack  in  the 
old  lava,  through  which  red  hot  lava  was  ooz- 
ing. This  situation  was  enough  to  startle  the 
most  fearless  of  explorers,  and  indeed  it  is  faith- 
fully recorded  that  this  little  party  felt  the  us- 
ual sensations  of  tragic  consternation  when  they 
saw  the  plight  they  were  in;  but,  they  picked 
their  ways  cautiously  along  the  crevasse  until 
they  came  to  a  narrow  point  where  they  were 
able  by  stepping  upon  a  ledge  to  jump  across 
the  newly  flowing  lava  and  then,  they  hurried 
home. 

We  did  not  try  the  foot  path  to  the  inner 
crater.  There  is  an  automobile  road  that  tra- 
verses some  seven  miles  in  reaching  a  near  ap- 
])roach  to  this  crater  and  since  we  had  little 
time  to  stay  and  wanted  to  make  the  best  of  our 
time  it  was  decided  that  when  we  went  we 
would  all  go  in  cars.    Dinner  at  the  hotel  was 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  121 

served  at  six  o'clock  and  it  was  tiio  i)iaii  that 
we  would  all  drive  over  after  dinner  in  order 
to  see  the  crater  for  tlie  first  time  at  nifi;lit. 
When  1  step])ed  out  from  tlie  dining  room 
after  this  dinner  it  was  already  getting  dark 
and  across  the'  lava  fields  I  noted  that  the  cen- 
tralized smoke  of  the  afternoon  had  now  cleep- 
ened  into  a  centralized  glow  of  light,  varying 
frequently  in  its  intensity,  but  so  strong  in  its 
effects  as  to  assure  one  that  there  was  a  real 
fire  as  the  basis  of  the  smoke  which  had  so  en- 
slaved our  curiosity  during  the  earlier  part  of 
the  evening. 

In  automobiles  we  were  whirled  through  a 
densely  foliaged  road  up  hills  and  down,  around 
sharp  corners,  through  narrow  gorges,  getting 
occasional  glimpsesi  of  the  crater.  The  road 
has  been  dubbed  by  some  the  "path  to  Hell" 
and  like  the  alleged  path  to  "Hell"  it  is  not  a 
hard  road  to  travel.  In  general  it  is  smooth, 
not  dangerously  narrow  and  the  scenery  by  the 
side  is  fine.  The  only  appalling  thing  in  the 
night  is  the  occasional  glim|)ses  of  deep,  dark 
pits,  baby  craters,  we  were  informed,  which  we 
were  to  have  a  better  chance  to  inspect  the  next 
morning;  but  as  for  this  trip,  its  dominant  ob- 
ject was  to  see  the  "House  of  Everlasting  Fire" 
by  night. 

"You  have  to  walk,"  our  driver  briefly  ad- 
vised us,  breaking  another  long  period  of  sil- 
ence as  we  came  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  crater 
and  found  a  bare  road,  free  from  growths  of 
all  kinds  and  directly  across  the  lava  toward 
the  pit.  And,  sure  enough,  soon  we  came  to 
great  obstacles  in  the  road.  They  were  huge 
chunks  of  lava  piled  hit  and  miss  across  our 
pathway.  But  a  few  months  ago  this  road  led 
almost  flush  up  to  the  edge  of  the  inner  crater, 
but,  the  volcano  going  on  a  sudden  rampage 


122  A  TRIP  TO   THE    HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


threw  out  sufficient  floods  of  lava  to  block  the 
road  some  half  mile  back  from  the  pit  and 
therefore  we  had  to  walk  and  climb  over  the 
lava  toward  Halemanman.  The  pathway  was 
marked,  one  side  of  it,  by  streams  of  some  white 
substance  that  clearly  led  the  way.  Occasion- 
ally we  would  pass  a  point  from  which  a  hot 
breath  of  air  would  break  from  the  lava  bed 
and  startle  us  as  it  hit  us  in  the;  face.  Getting 
nearer,  the  suljDhur  fumes  threatened  to  stran- 
gle us ;  but  we  worked  around  toward  the  wind- 
ward side  of  the  crater  in  order  that  the  fumes 
might  go  the  other  way. 

Soon  we  were  within  sound  of  the  crater. 
There  was  a  continuous  hissing  noise  of  escap- 
ing steam;  now  low,  now  so  high  as  to  suggest 
that  a  dozen  railway  engines  were  vying  in 
their  efforts  to  out-hiss  each  other.  We  come 
now,  so  near  to  the  edge  of  the  crater  that  we 
can  look  into  ])art  of  it. 

(I  don't  know  whether  I  like  this  or  not. 
Somewhere,  not  far  from  here,  they  are  firing- 
big  gun  salutes  to  something  or  somebody  this 
morning,  and  just  now,  one  of  them  exploding 
shook  our  hotel  to  the  sixth  story,  where  I  re- 
side, while  a  ])uff  of  air,  the  direct  result  of  the 
explosive  imj^act,  mussed  up  my  desk  supplies 
in  a  disconcerting  manner.  What  I  object  to, 
though,  is  this  top-rocking  of  the  hotel  in  which 
I  sit.  There  goes  another — I'm  going  down 
stairs  until  they  quit  this  foolishness — I  prefer 
volcanoes  to  twelve  inch  guns. 

Later — Well,  I  did.  Stepping  out  into  the 
hallway  I  asked  the  Japanese  "chaml)erman:" 
"Wliat's  all  the  shooting  about? — it  shakes  the 
house."  He  grinned  an  un-understandable  grin 
while  he  looked  at  me,  and  then  he  said 
"Packi"  or  something  like  that.  I  looked  at 
him  and  thought  with  all  the  thinking  power  I 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  123 

had.  What  did  "Packi"  mean.  Suddenly  it 
dawned  upon  nie  that  he  meant  to  say  "prac- 
tice" and  1  surmised  that  the  naval  boys  were 
shooting  at  marks  far  across  the  bay.  "Prac- 
tice?" I  asked.  "  Yez — yez"  the  Jai)anese  boy 
said  and  pointed  across  the  bay.  1  went  on  down 
stairs  and  stepping  out  of  the  elevator  and  over 
into  the  smoking  room  adjunct  to  the  lobby  of 
the  hotel  I  stood  face  to  face  with  Frank  Buck- 
ley of  my  own  home  town,  Washington,  Iowa, 
just  arrived  this  morning  from  the  orient,  and 
headed  states-ward.  "Be  sure  your  sins  will  find 
you  out."  Neither  knew  the  other  was  within 
four  thousand  miles.  If  the  big  gun  shooting 
hadn't  di'iven  me  down  stairs  I  fancy  Frank 
would  have  passed  through  Honolulu  without 
either  of  us  knowing  that  we  were  so  near  to 
each  other.  He  was  just  starting  out  with  a 
party  over  town  so  I  did  not  get  a  chance  to 
visit  with  him  then.  I  hope  to  see  him  again 
before  his  boat  goes  on  tomorrow.  Now  let's 
return  in  i)roper  manner  to  the  consideration 
again  of  the  "House  of  Everlasting  Fire."  If 
Washington  people  will  cease  interruptions  and 
the  navy  will  refrain  from  further'  "packi"  for 
a  while,  we  may  get  through  next  time.) 


124  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXIV. 
The  Volcano  Kilauea 

(Continued) 

Honolulu,   October  19,    1921 

Wlieii  the  naval  practice  shooting  and  Frank 
Buckley  interrupted  our  story  we  had  just 
crossed  the  main  crater  of  the  volcano  Kilauea 
and  were  approaching  the  inner  crater  Hale- 
niaumau,  the  ' '  House  of  Everlasting  Fire. ' '  We 
had  traversed  the  "'Road  to  Hell"  in  automo- 
biles and  had  picked  our  way  over  the  heat 
breathing  lava  paths  to  the  edge  of  Halemau- 
mau.  Yes,  we  had  come  to  the  point  where  we 
could  look  over  the  edge  and  see  down  into  the 
pit  and  we  had  listened  with  considerable  trepi- 
dation, as  we  approached,  to  the  loud  hissing  in 
the  lower  confines  of  the  crater. 

This  inner  crater  of  the  volcano  is  about 
2000  feet  across  and  its  precipitous  sides  lead 
down  sometimes  to  a  depth  of  some  700  feet. 
That  is  Avhen  the  lava  has  sunk  to  its  lowest 
depth  recorded  in  recent  years.  The  evening 
we  visited  the  crater,  the  lava  was  some  200 
feet  up  in  it,  covering  several  acres,  and  rear- 
ing themselves  from  the  molten  lava  were 
two  rather  large  hills  of  hardened  lava  rocks, 
etc.,  while  all  around  about  and  under  the  min- 
iature mountains  bubbled  the  molten  lava. 

AVe  peered  down  into  the  pit  under  a  spell 
of  strange  fascination.  I  remember  I  thought 
that  all  that  was  needed  in  addition  to  the  scene 
below  to  perfect  one  of  my  childish  conceptions 
of  the  real  inferno  to  which  bad  boys  were 
eventually  destined  was  the  moving  figure  of  a 
tall,    slender,    dark    "complected"    gentleman 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  125 

with  horns,  a  tail  with  a  knot  in  it,  and  a  two 
l)ronged  pitchfoi-k  in  liis  hands.  Certainly,  yes, 
we  expected  him  to  have  a  sort  of  a  sardonic 
expression  on  his  face  and  to  be  constantly  wel- 
coming* various  of  our  unloved  acquaintances 
into  his  realms. 

Halemaumau  is  nature's  proudest  illustra- 
tion of  an  inferno.  It  is  Hades  modernized, 
brought  up  to  date,  furnished  free  of  charge  to 
all  comers.  It  is  a  strange,  thrilling,  awe  in- 
spiring experience  to  stand  on  the  side  of  a 
mountain,  look  down  into  an  enormous  pit  and 
see  great  masses  of  boiling  lava,  hear  the  noises 
of  escaping  steam,  and  witness  great  chunks 
of  stone  and  rock  drop  with  a  wild  plunge  into 
the  lava,  throwing  it  up  in  great  yellowish  red 
splashes  and  columns.  Then,  too,  there  were 
pools  of  lava,  great  wide  pools  that  w^ere  in  con- 
stant rolling  motion,  bursting  frequently  up 
into  big  bubbles,  as  the  gases  forced  their  way 
through.  There  were  recurring  bursts  of  noisy 
steam  escapements  followed  often  by  the  col- 
lapse of  certain  portions  of  the  little  mount- 
ains. Moving  around  the  pit  farther,  each  new 
position  diversified  the  strange  scene.  The 
lights  of  the  volcano  dispelled  all  other  lights. 
There  was  nothing  else  in  the  world  to  see  save 
this  deep,  boiling  pit,  of  bubbling  and  flowing- 
lava,  the  helpless  mountains  in  the  midst  and 
the  precipitous  walls  over  which  we  hung  and 
watched  and  watched  and  watched. 

There  is  a  fascination  about  this  volcano 
that  makes  people  want  to  go  back  again  and 
yet  again  and  again.  It  is  the  only  place  that  I 
have  seen  om  this  trip  that  I  would  be  more 
than  delighted  to  go  back  and  see  right  away 
again.  It  grows  upon  one,  I  think,  because  of 
the  constant  change.  Then,  too,  we  know  that 
tomorrow  the  lava  mav  be  three  hundred  feet 


126  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


PEGGY    AND    "BILL' 


"Bill"  is  a  native  Hawaiian  guide  to  the  various  wonder 
points  in  the  actively  volcanic  parts  of  the  island  of 
Hawaii.  It  is  said  of  him,  that  in  the  absence  of  other 
food  he  can  live  for  several  days  on  Kilauea  lava.  He 
never  lost  a  chance  to  help  World  Press  Delegates  in 
their  effort  to  see  and  understand.  What  he  doesn't 
know  about  the  crater  and  the  surroundings  hasn't  been 
found  out  yet.      Thank  you   "Bill"  for  many  courtesies. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  127 

(loop  iiistond  of  two  liinidrcd  feet  deep  and  the 
next  day  it  may  be  still  dcepei"  wiiile  in  a  few 
more  da.ws  it  may  fill  the  whole  pit  to  the  top 
and  he  leaking'  out  over  the  sides,  Oidy  a  few 
moiitlis  a,<;()  it  did  all  that  and  incidentally  de- 
stroyed a  full  half  mile  of  perfectly  <;()()d  road 
that  had  been  built  ri<;-ht  u])  to  the  ed<i,'e  of  the 
crater. 

This  is  a  volcano  of  many  mocxls,  hut  for- 
tunately they  are  not  dangerously  threatening 
moods.  Nature  has  built  a  large  house  for  the 
overflow  of  this  crater  and  it  is  so  arranged 
that  even  when  the  flow  is  on,  and  floods  of 
lava  are  s])reading,  peo])le  may  come  right  up 
close  to  the  lava  and  walk  away  from  it  as  it 
w^orks  its  way  across  the  big  outer  crater.  It 
has  a  wide  spread  and  before  it  has  traveled 
far.  it  is  moving  slowly,  for  it  does  not  di'op 
])recipitously. 

Tt  is  not  so  with  tlie  still  live  volcano  of 
Mauna  Loa  joining  Kilauea  and  towering  some 
ten  thousand  feet  higher.  Mauna  Loa,  when  it 
breaks  out,  frequently  i)Ours  floods  of  lava 
down  the  mountain  side  at  the  rate  of  thirty 
miles  an  hour.  In  recent  years  it  traced  its  wav 
several  miles  to  the  sea  and  on  one  occasion 
lava  came  to  within  a  mile  of  Hilo. 

Kilauea  is  indeed  a  tame  volcano.  It  af- 
fords the  best  ov)portunity  for  volcanic  study  of 
anv  volcano  in  the  woi'ld.  It  keeps  open  house 
all  the  while.  One  can  walk  right  up  and  visit 
with  it.  Even  the  inner  crater  is  not  inacces- 
sible. Scientists  have  gone  doAvn  into  that  part 
of  the  crater  to  a  nearer  approach  to  the  molt- 
en lava.  Extreme  care  must  be  taken  of  course. 
The  path  has  to  be  picked,  the  fumes  must  be 
avoided,  and  one  must  be  supported  against  the 
danger  of  collapsing  crusts,  for  the  boiling 
floods   beloAv   are   constantlv   undei'mining   the 


12  8  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

solids  that  are  so  close  to  the  immediate  fiery 
fluids. 

Adjectives  fail  in  an  effort  to  describe  the 
full  vision  of  this  inner  crater.  It  is  a  nature- 
built  cauldron  in  which  mountains  are  con- 
sumed by  fire;  into  the  flame  of  which  rocks 
drop  and  like  flakes  of  snow  upon  the  breast  of 
the  brook  melt  away  in  an  instant.  There  are 
livers  of  molten  fire  lashing  themselves  into 
cc  nstant  fury  and  hissing  with  a  thousand  ton- 
gues their  message  of  destruction.  All  this  hap- 
pens in  an  area  confined  to  a  few  acres,  deep 
enough  in  the  earth  to  be  securely  observed,  and 
yet  near  enough  to  be  awe-fully  suggestive.  We 
sought  out  high  points  and  stood  in  the  glare 
of  the  ghostly  yellow  light  and  looked  long  and 
deep.  Yes,  one  man's  panama  hat  was  lifted 
from  his  head  and  floated  over,  and  down, 
down,  down.  We  never  saw  it  again — a  sacri- 
fice offered  to  Pele,  the  goddess  of  this  pit  to 
whom  the  natives  long  years  ago  used  to  toss 
fruits  and  beautiful  flowers  in  an  effort  to  ap- 
pease her  wrath.  And,  it  is  sometimes  claimed, 
that  under  great  emergencies  the  chiefs  used 
to  make  even  sterner  sacrifices  to  this  goddess 
in  order  to  bring  success  to  their  arms. 

On  the  evening  of  this  ])ress  congress  visit, 
Pele  must  have  looked  with  amazed  surprise- 
upon  the  number  of  visitors  paying  her  hom- 
age. All  around  the  crater,  excepting  on  the 
*'fume"  side,  ghostly  figures,  stood  and  sat  and 
looked,  and  talked  and  wondered.  The  fiery 
s])ectacle  held  them  spellbound.  Did  she  show 
offf  Not  in  the  quantity  of  molten  lava  dis- 
plaved  in  her  lashings;  but  in  her  hissings  she 
was  unusually  noisy  we  learn.  One  man  fa- 
miliar with  the  scene  and  the  emotions  of  the 
volcano  remarked  to  me:  "Something  is  going 
to  happen  around  here  soon." 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  129 

"How  loiio:"'  I  asked. 

"it  iiin\'  !)('  n  inoiilli,  ;i  week,  an  hour,''  he 
replied.  "That  liissiiii;'  means  that  the  <^as 
pressure  is  increasing  i-apidly.  Sonietliing  has 
to  give  way." 

I  stepped  hack  a  few  feel.     Hv'  laughed. 

"There  is  no  danger,"  lie  said. 

Was  my  informant  correct  in  his  snnnise? 
Here  is  what  I  clijjped  from  tlu'  ironolnlu  Star- 
Bnlletin  this  morning: 

HILO,  Hawaii,  Oct.  19. — There  was  a  sharp 
earthquake  shock  at  the  Volcano  of  Kilauea  at 
10:30  o'clock  last  night  and  at  5:30  this  morn- 
ing the  fire  pit  went  clown  2  6  feet  in  one 
drop.  The  mammoth  crags  tilted  over  and 
there  was  great  activity  with  15  or  20  pools 
fountaining  vigorously  and  the  lava  lakes 
flowing  toward  the  Kau  side  of  the  crater.  A 
slight  earthquake  was  felt  this  morning  in 
Hilo. 

All  of  which  means  that  the  mountains 
which  we  had  seen  in  the  middle  of  the  inner 
crater,  either  of  them  as  big  as  a  half  dozen  10 
story  bnildings,  toppled  over  into  the  molten 
lava  and  created  such  a  commotion  as  goes  far 
beyond  the  most  liberal  imaginations  of  one 
who  has  never  seen  the  workings  of  nature  in 
this  house  of  everlasting  fire. 

And  now  I  come  to  a  feature  of  the  earthly, 
or  unearthly,  conditions  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
crater  tliat  is  even  more  surprising,  or  startling, 
rather,  than  those  about  which  I  have  already 
written.  Stepping  back  a  few  feet,  perhaps  two 
or  three  rods,  from  the  edge  of  the  crater,  I 
suddenly  felt  a  rather  warm  breath  of  air  strik- 
ing me  and  looking  down  I  discovered  that  I 
was  on  the  edge  of  a  crack  in  the  lava,  and  with- 
in two  or  three  inches  of  the  top  upon  which 
I  was  standing  I  could  see  that  down  in  the 
crack  the  lava  Avail  was  red  hot.     it  was  flam- 


130  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

ing  red,  and  to  test  the  reality  of  the  thing,  I 
took  a  little  folder  from  my  pocket  and  held 
the  edge  of  it  down  into  the  crack.  So  terrific 
was  the  heat  that  I  thought  my  hand  would 
burn;  but,  I  scorched  the  paper  and  sent  it  back 
to  the  folks  at  home  with  the  story  of  how  I 
had  stood  over  a  lake  of  red  hot  lava  and  pre- 
pared the  unicpie  souvenir  for  them. 

On  farther,  and  still  farther  away  from  the 
crater,  I  came  to  another  place  where  a  slight 
opening  in  the  top  of  the  lava  revealed  a  red 
hot  pit  below.  How  deep  it  w^as,  how  far  it  ex- 
tended, how  broad  it  became,  there  was  no  way 
of  knowing.  But  we  looked  deep  down  into  a 
pit  of  fire,  upon  the  crust  of  which  we  stood 
in  apparent  safety. 

I  got  no  chance  to  make  inquiry  as  to  the 
scientific  cause  for  such  a  condition;  but  I  am 
not  inclined  to  think  that  underneath  all  that 
broad  expanse  of  cooled  surface  lava,  red  hot 
lava,  is  to  be  found.  I  am  rather  of  the  opin- 
ion that  at  those  particular  places  that  we  ex- 
amined, the  crevices  in  the  lava  still  retained 
air  connections  with  the  molten  pit  below  and 
that  the  red  hot  heat  shown  was  a  local  mani- 
festation rather  than  a  general  condition.  Cer- 
tain it  is,  though,  some  extreme  heat  is  found 
at  many  different  points  all  over  the  2650  acres 
covered  by  the  lava  deposits  of  many  eruptions. 

That  is  in  brief  a  feeble  effort  to  tell  the 
night  story  of  Halemaumau  (pronounced  Ilal- 
lie-mow-mow — sounding  the  "ow"  as  in 
''how.")  It  is  a  sight  never  to  be  forgotten. 
Naturally  we  think  of  volcanoes  and  earth- 
quakes as  nature's  most  violent  physical  mani- 
festations. They  are  things  of  terror,  gener- 
ally, for:  we  know  not  what  tliey  may  do  or, 
when  they  may  do  it.  They  come  as  a  thief  in 
the  night.     They  belch  up  out  of  the  earth  or 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  131 


over  the  earth,  with  a  power  tliat  overwhelms 
iiiau  and  all  of  man's  creations.  In  the  ])res- 
ence  of  an  insecure  earth  we  consign  ourselves 
to  fate.  If  the  ground  upon  which  we  tread 
falls  away  from  us,  we  are  indeed  lost.  If  an 
erstwhile  friendly  hill  from  the  sides  of  which 
girls  have  picked  flowers  and  upon  which  lit- 
tle children  have  played  in  safety  for  centur- 
ies— if  such  a  hill  suddenly  spits  from  its  top 
great  torrents  of  smothering  ashes  and  rocks 
and  millions  of  tons  of  all  consuming  and  all 
covering  molten  lava,  is  that  not  enough  to 
make  people  look  upon  volcanoes  and  earth- 
quakes with  some  considerable  awe  and  re- 
spect. As  the  little  boy  at  our  house  remarks 
once  in  a  while:    ''I'll  say  so." 


132  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XX^\ 
Volcanic  Pranks 

Honolulu,   October    19,    1921 

Did  anybody  in  the  audience  tliink  that  we 
are  tlirong'h  talking  abont  volcanoes?  We  trust 
not,  for  there  are  yet  a  few  things  that  we  want 
to  tell  our  readers  about  Kileau,  Halemaumau, 
Mauna  Loa,  and  certain  of  their  I'ranks  in  the 
vicinity  that  they  have  selected  for  their  re- 
spective fields  of  operation. 

First,  though,  let  me  state  that  I  had  a  nice 
visit  with  Frank  Buckley  this  morning.  He  will 
continue  his  trip  tomorrow^  evening  at  five  to- 
ward the  states,  having  arrived  from  Yokahama 
yesterday  morning  on  the  "Hawkeye  State." 
He  has  made  an  extensive  tour  of  Europe  and 
Asia  and  is  chuck  full  of  information  of  all 
kinds  ]^lucked  first  hand  from  the  trees  of 
knowledge  that  bordered  his  path  of  travel. 

And  now,  back  to  the  volcanoes  and  to  the 
volcanic  ]n'anks.  Early  the  morning  following' 
our  night  visit  to  the  crater  of  Kilauea  we 
started  out  again  in  our  cars,  to  see  all  we  could 
see,  including  a  daylight  visit  to  the  inner  crater 
Halemaumau.  First  we  were  driven  to  see  the 
tree  molds.  These  were  not  the  least  interest- 
ing* of  the  tilings  we  have  seen  on  our  triji. 

And  what  is  a  tree  mold?  We  all  wondered 
until  we  got  into  the  ]H"esence  of  the  tree  molds 
and  then  we  didn't  wonder  any  more.  Let  us 
sup])ose  that  once  there  was  a  great  forest 
standing  near  a  (piiet,  i)eaceable  mountain.  That 
the  forest  had  stood  there  for  years  and  years 
and  years;  the  trees  gradually  growing  larger 
and  laro-er  until  some  of  them  were  one  hundred 


AVlTli   WORLDS    I'lMOSS   CONGRESS  133 


Ic'cl  tall  and  oiu",  two,  llirci',  vwn  six  I'c'ct  in 
(liamcter.  Then  let's  sii])])ose  farther.  Let's 
su))i)ose  that  all  of  a  sudden  the  to])  blew  off 
that  heretofore  pea('e-l()viiii>-  mountain  and  an 
ocean  of  molten  lava  ])()ured  out  inundating-  tlie 
forest  tract,  in  a  few  moments,  to  a  dei)tli  of 
fifteen,  twenty,  tliirty  feet. 

What  lia|)i)ened?  So  rapidly  did  tlie  lava 
flow,  aud  so  cinickly  did  it  cool,  that  it  sur- 
rounded the  trees  and  solidified.  The  trees 
were  of  course  killed,  set  afire  and  burned  to 
death,  but  the  heat  of  a  hnrnino-  tree  was  not 
sufficient  to  keep  the  lava  in  the  licpud  state 
and  the  result  was  that  the  lava  "froze"  about 
the  trunk  of  the  tree,  just  as  it  was  when  the 
inundation  occurred  and  now  we  have  in  the 
tree  melds  big'  and  little  wells,  the  exact  size  of 
the  tree  trunks  that  once  occupied  the  space 
now  occupied  by  the  holes. 

The  tree  molds  are  holes  in  the  ground  sur- 
rounded by  hardened  lava  that  shows  on  the 
face  of  it  the  grain  of  the  tree  that  the  lava  de- 
stroyed, probably  thousands  of  years  ago.  It 
must  have  been  long,  long  ago,  for  there  is  a 
new  soil  over  the  old  lava  now;  a  soil  deep 
enough  to  nourish  another  forest  which  has 
grown  upon  the  site  of  the  old;  but  here  and 
there  and  all  about  are  those  deep  tombs  of  the 
great  trees,  the  trunks  of  which  were  surmerged 
and  incinerated  long,  long  ago  hy  the  petulant 
whim  of  a  fire-belching  mountain. 

It  was  probably  Mauna  Loa  that  was  guilty 
of  this  indecency  toward  the  lumber  trust.  All 
about  are  ruins  of  her  spiteful  work.  She  has 
never  been  dependable,  while  Kilauea,  has  very 
sehhmi  been  otherwise,  so  far  as  history  shows. 
Yes.  once  in  1790  it  is  claimed  that  Kilauea,  in 
a  sudden  burst  of  anger,  threw  stones  and  ashes 
so  far  that  a  band  of  native  soldiers  was  caught 


134  A  TRIP   TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

aiKi  several  smothered  under  the  far  flung  de- 
bris. That  is  the  only  comparatively  modern 
record  of  dire  destrnction  attributed  to  this  gen- 
erally docile  and  well  behaved  creature. 

Leaving  the  scene  of  the  tree  molds  our  au- 
tomobiles again  turned  toward  the  road  that  led 
to  the  craters  and,  by  daylight,  we  had  the  priv- 
ilege of  again  traversing  that  interesting  path. 
There  were  several  miles  of  travel  through  most 
interesting  tropical  foliage,  the  most  striking 
of  which  were  the  specimens  of  tree  ferns,  but 
there  were  other  interesting  growths  such  as  the 
ohelo  bushes  which  yield  a  refreshing  fruit,  ber- 
ries the  size  of  a  small  grape  and  bluish  in  color 
when  ri]3e. 

Along  this  road  by  daylight,  too,  we  had  the 
oi)portunity  to  view  more  understandingiy  some 
of  the  smaller  extinct  craters  which  abound 
hereabouts.  One,  "Little  Kilauea,"  is  particu- 
larly interesting.  It  is  about  a  half  mile  across 
and  some  seven  hundred  feet  deep,  the  l)ottom 
being  as  smooth  as  a  ball  room  floor,  apparent- 
ly. The  walls  are  very  precipitous  and  the  for- 
mation perfectly  conical,  the  cone  inverted 
There  is  no  break  in  the  walls.  Our  driver  again 
released  his  tongue  long  enough  to  explain  that 
three  men  and  a  Ford  had  gone  over  the  walls 
and  liuri-ied  to  the  bottom,  never  to  ride  in  a 
Ford  in  these  realms  again.  Such  a  thing  was 
possible,  we  could  readily  observe,  but  not  at  all 
necessary,  since  there  was  plenty  of  load  room 
without  crowding  tlie  crater  and  f^ven  to  get  to 
the  edge  of  the  decline  one  must  ciimli  a  small 
ridge. 

"How  did  it  happen?"  we  asked. 

"Drunk!"  was  the  brief  response.  In  a  dar- 
ing, drunken,  uncaring,  unthinking  frenzy  the 
driver  liad  wiggled  liis  machine  a  little  too 
closely  to  tlio  od^e,  and  over  it  went  carrying 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  135 

w  illi  il  tlii'eu  iiiaudliii  liuiiian  bciii^s  all  luil'it  at 
that  time  to  face  St.  Peter  at  the  [>early  gates. 

There  were  two  or  three  of  tliose  roadside 
craters,  l)al)y  craters,  and  then  we  came  sud- 
denly to  a  sionl)oard  that  pointed  the  way  to 
the  lava  "tul)es. "  Here  we  left  our  cars  and 
treading  our  way  througli  the  dense  brush  we 
came  after  a  short  while  to  the  edge  of  a  deeply 
foliaged,  steep  decline.  Standing  oa  the  edge  of 
it  and  looking  about  we  could  see  that  it,  too, 
was  a  ci-ater,  but  evidently  a  crater  of  long 
standing.  It  was  tree-grown  all  up  and  down 
the  sides  and  in  the  bottom.  The  trees  were 
tall,  gangling.  There  were  great  masses  of 
vines,  and  other  obstructing  shrubbery,  the 
whole  taking  on  the  aspect  of  age,  age,  8^e  and 
more  age.  A  steep  trail  of  short  zig  zags  led 
down  into  this  damp  declivity.  AVater  dripped 
from  the  trees,  the  hand-built  wooden  steps 
over  which  we  i)assed  were  soft  to  the  feet  as  a 
cushioned  ])ath.  Down  and  down  and  still  down 
we  went  until  we  finally  touched  the  bottom, 
perhaps  six  hundred  feet  below  the  starting 
point.  It  was  but  a  short  distance  across  the 
bottom  and  then  we  climbed  ui^  a  few  feet  un- 
til we  came  in  sight  of  a  wooden  bridge,  a  stair- 
way across  a  dark  crevice  and,  in  the  wall 
above,  a  great  dark  hole. 

We  walked  rather  carefully  over  that  slen- 
der bridge  and  we  hung  closely  to  the  railings 
as  we  climbed  the  dripinng  stairway  and  then 
we  stepped  Avitli  a  little  hesitation  into  the  great 
tunnel.  This  was  the  lava  tube.  We  had  no 
lanterns  but  flash  lights  supplied  by  the  guides, 
carried  our  closely  huddled  group  on  into  the 
tube.  Occasionally  some  one  would  shriek  for 
more  light.  I  remember  that  we  clung  to  each 
other  close! V.  T  kc^t  my  fingers  lightly  touch- 
ing the  di'ess  of  a  woman  in  front  of  me  while 


136  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

a  siuklen  flask  of  light  revealed  the  fact  that  she 
was  clinging-  tenaciously  to  the  hand  of  one  of 
the  Chinese  members  of  our  party.  A  woman 
behind  clawed  intermittently  up  and  down  my 
coat. 

On  we  went  through  that  deep,  dark  tunnel 
for  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  There  was  no  danger, 
no  pits,  the  highway  had  been  established  by 
an  engineer  who  created  no  hazards.  We  finally 
came  to  the  end,  out  into  the  light  again,  on  a 
side  hill  and  we  had  traversed  a  highway  which 
perha]is  a  hundred  thousand  years  ago  had  been 
the  tunnel  through  which  a  roaring  volcano  had 
discharged  its  lava  product  out  u])on  the  face  of 
the  earth.  By  some  means  it  had  established  a 
path  that  way,  and  that  path  is  still  there,  good 
as  it  was  long  before  Adam  pitched  horse  shoes 
in,  the  garden  of  Eden  while  Eve  played  the 
ukelele  under  a  banyan  tree. 

This  lava  tunnel  was,  I  should  say  a))out  15 
feet  in  diameter.  At  one  place  it  narrowed 
down  to  a  point  where  I  could  just  touch  the 
ceiling,  but  in  general  it  maintained  its  full 
rounded  form.  One  could  easily  imagine  the 
flood  of  lava  pouring  through  the  tube,  and  the 
size  of  it  ]^rompted  the  further  surmise  that 
such  a  quantity  was  carried  as  filled  full  a  dee]) 
hole  in  the  sea  and  raised  the  level  of  the  adja- 
cent territory  rapidly.  The  wonder  is  that  at 
the  finish  the  tube  was  not  left  full  of  lava;  but 
it  wasn't.  Nature  had  left  another  wonderful 
thing  for  men  to  speculate  al)Out. 

Some  looked  upon  this  natural  curiosity  as 
one  of  the  most  amazing  of  all  in  this  vicinity 
of  wonders.  This  tube  had  just  been  discov- 
ered in  recent  years,  we  learn.  Two  boys  prowl- 
ing througli  the  jungles,  dared  to  climb  down 
into  the  crater  and  while  nosing  around  through 
the  bottom  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  great  dark 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  137 

liole  in  the  wall  above.  T  was  told  !jy  one  of  the 
i>iii(l('s  that  at  one  ]>oint  in  the  tnbe  another 
breaks  away  to  the  left  and  goes  on,  indel'inite- 
ly,  some  snrniising  that  it  leads  so  great  a  dis- 
tance as  thirty  miles,  to  the  sea.  No  one  eares 
to  ex])l()r('  it.  Tliere  were  no  volnnteers  in  onr 
party. 


138  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXVI. 
Kilauea  in  Daylight 

Honolulu,   October   20,   1921 

Leaving  the  lava  tube  we  drove  directly  to 
the  crater,  iKilaiiea  again.  The  inspection  of 
the  crater  is  not  complete,  no  difference  how 
often  it  is  visited,  but  it  is  far  from  complete  if 
it  is  not  seen  in  both  daylight  and  dark.  We 
had  seen  it  the  night  before;  now  we  were  to 
see  it  by  daylight,  at  a  time  when  all  the  details 
of  the  wall  formations  could  be  observed  and 
when  the  lava  beds  could  be  more  closely  in- 
spected. Indeed  the  old  lava  beds  present  a 
large  field  for  exploration  in  themselves.  There 
are  caverns  and  tunnels  and  other  odd  forma- 
tions at  many  i)oints  in  the  2(550  acres  covej-ed 
and  one  might  wander  for  days  and  weeks  over 
that  broad  expanse  finding  something  new  and 
interesting  to'  look  at  every  few  moments.  Of 
course,  there  is  danger  in  such  adventures  and 
great  care  must  be  taken. 

The  daylight  view  of  Halemaumau  is  not  so 
vivid  in  its  suggestion  of  infernal  things,  but  it 
is  vivid  enough.  The  redliot,  molten  lava  still 
boils  in  the  pit  and  the  escaping  steam  still 
makes  its  threatening  noise.  The  walls,  the 
cracks,  the  crevices,  the  swirling  ])ools,  the 
steam,  all  comlune  to  make  the  daylight  view 
a  thing  to  })roduce  unmeasured  astonishment. 
We  saw  it  when  the  lava  level  was  compara- 
tively low.  Sometimes,  as  stated  before,  it  rises 
almost  flush  to  the  top  and  under  such  condi- 
tions the  lake  is  many  times  larger  than  it  was 
when  we  saw  it  and  the  extreme  heat  prevents 
people  from  going  so  near  to  it  as  we  could,  on 


WITH   WORLDS   PRESS  CONGRESS  139 


our  visit.  We  could  i»()  riglil  up  to  llie  edge  and 
hang*  over. 

This  daylight  visit  was  the  occasion  for 
much  picture  taking.  The  two  movie  men  were 
there  and  one  invaded  the  lower  realms  getting 
a  "close-up"  of  the  lower  parts  of  the  crater. 
At  one  point  one  can  climb  down  quite  a  dis- 
tance into  the  inner  crater  when  the  lava  is  low. 
Above  we  examined  in  a  bigger  way  the  con- 
fines of  the  house  of  fire  and  enjoyed,  too,  the 
view  of  the  field  of  lava,  glistening  in  many  var- 
iegated shades  of  black  and  l)ronze  m  the  bright 
sunlight. 

Dr.  T.  A.  Jagger,  of  the  Massachusetts  In- 
stitute of  Technology  is  in  charge  of  the  observ- 
atory on  the  edge  of  the  volcano.  He  makes 
daily  observations  and  is  devoting  his  whole 
time  to  the  study  of  tlie  phenomena  in  connec- 
tion with  this  volcano.  He  delivered  a  short 
lecture  to  our  assembled  grou]),  after  he  had  in- 
vited tlie  rather  extensive  crowd  to  come  a  lit- 
tle farther  away  from  the  edge,  observing  that 
he  didn't  think  it  best  to  have  too  much  weight 
so  close  to  the  fiery  depths.  Such  a  suggestion 
coming  from  him  was  quite  reassuring,  our 
I'eaders  will  surmise. 

He  explained  that  the  heat  required  to  melt 
the  lava  in  this  volcano  seemed  to  be  about  1750 
degrees  Fahrenheit,  a  temperature  below  the 
usual  heat  required  in  other  volcanoes.  That, 
he  stated,  was  the  reason  that  the  volcanic  ac- 
tion was  not  more  explosive.  The  gases  es- 
cape without  great  pressure  and  Kilauea  is 
therefore  not  so  threatening  as  many  others  of 
the  active  volcanoes.  He  explained,  also  that 
this  volcano,  and  all  others,  are  merely  sur- 
face manifestations.  The  theory  that  the  lava 
comes  from  deep  down  in  an  earth,  the  center 
of  which  is  fire  and  li(iuid,  is  not  tenable.   We 


140  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

do  not  live  on  an  earth  that  is  in  danger  of  col- 
hqj.se  b}^  reason  of  internal  weakness.  The  earth 
in  general  is  a  solid  ball,  rigid  as  steel,  heavy 
as  iron.  \^olcanoes  and  snch  external  manifes- 
tations are  but  little  pimples  on  the  face  of 
mother  earth,  occasioned  by  gaseons  combina- 
tions which  ])econie  inflammable  the  moment 
they  connect.  Science  has  demonstrated  these 
facts  definitely.    They  are  demonstrable. 

Earthquakes  are  but  the  settling  of  the  sur- 
face crust  over  some  points  disturbed  by  vol- 
canic eruptions.  A  great  loss  of  earth  substance 
by  volcanic  eruption  at  one  point  weakens  the 
crust  at  that  point  and  the  surface  seeks  bal- 
ance by  shifting.  But,  the  great  round  earth 
itself  is  as  sound  as  a  ball  of  solid  steel. 

The  possibility  of  the  utilization  of  volcanic 
heat  is  now  coming  in  for  some  consideration. 
The  heat  may  eventually  be  used  in  electric 
storage  processes.  Prof.  Jagger's  observations 
are  principally  for  the  general  satisfaction  of 
the  scientific  world  and  it  is  hoped  that  by 
keeping  an  exact  record  of  the  behavior  of  Kil- 
auea  they  may  be  able  to  get  the  cycle  of  i)er- 
formances  and  by  that  means  make  such  de- 
ductions looking  toward  practical  use  as  are 
possible. 

In  the  course  of  their  explorations  Prof. 
Jagger  and  his  liel])ers  found  the  l)ones  of  a 
woman,  in  sitting  posture,  facing  the  volcano 
through  the  opening"  in  a  rock  cave  on  the  side 
of  an  adjoining  mountain.  Around  the  bones 
of  the  woman  were  certain  ol)jects,  evidently 
put  there  by  human  hands,  leading  to  the  be- 
lief that  the  woman's  body  was  placed  that  way 
inirposely  after  death,  her  tomb  being  the  cave 
facing  the  pit  of  fire.  In  another  ])lace  they 
found  bare  foot]irints  of  human  beings  set  in 
lava  sand  which  must  have  been  at  least  130 


WITH    WORLD'S    i'llKSS   CONGRESS  141 

to  l."j()  years  of  a,t;('.  These  studies  iiatiii'ally 
niako  a  stroii<;'  api)eal  to  certain  types  of  mind 
and  Prol'.  Ja^'ger's  mind  is  of  that  type. 

To  those  of  us,  used  to  solid  earth,  and  un- 
used to  earth(|uakes  and  voleanie  eru])tions,  the 
tlnniiilit  of  living  in  such  a  country  is  not  a])- 
l)ealing.  The  people  of  Hawaii  seem  to  liave 
no  fear.  Even  though  Hilo  lias  been  threat- 
ened a  couple  of  times,  the  residents  do  not 
seem  to  look  upon  their  position  as  particularly 
dangerous.  The  lava  flows  slowly  by  the  time 
it  gets  down  as  far  as  they  live.  They  will  have 
time  to  climb  a  hill  or  get  out  into  the  sea.  The 
rancher  on  the  uplands,  it  is  stated,  is  always 
careful  to  build  on  the  hillside,  instead  of  in  the 
depressions,  realizing  that  the  lava  will  natur- 
ally seek  the  depressions  first  and,  "while  he 
knows  that  he  may  awake  any  morning  and 
find  the  greater  })art  of  his  fann  cnisted  over 
with  hard,  sterile,  black  rock,"  ^yet  he  realizes, 
also,  that  eventually,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
thousand  years,  that  rock  will  melt  down  again 
into  good,  productive  soil,  so  he  doesn't  worry. 
Should  we? 

We  turned  away  from  the  House  of  Ever- 
lasting Fire,  reluctantly.  We  wanted  to  stay 
longer.  Pele's  bluster  is  fascinating.  She  sings 
a  song  of  many  tones.  They  are  strangely  ap- 
])ealing,  and  slie  is  beautiful  in  her  way.  We 
do  not  know  if  we  shall  ever  see  her  again,  but 
certain  it  is,  she  has  rarely  had  as  devoted  an 
audience  as  she  had  on  this  occasion  when  the 
group  of  press  peo])le  gathered  about  her  throne 
of  fire  and  made  obeisance  to  her  flaming  maj- 
esty. 

Leaving  the  volcano  we  went  immediately 
to  the  Volcano  hotel  and  had  luncheon,  (dinner 
at  our  house)  and  then  were  driven  back  to 
Hilo,  Avliere  a  special  function  was  in  prepara- 


142  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

tion  for  the  evening,  and  at  midnight  we  were 
to  sail  for  Maui,  where  there  were  to  be  a  series 
of  other  festivities,  put  on  by  the  people  of  that 
amazingly  rich  little  island. 

As  Ave  drove  back  toward  Hilo  the  thought- 
fulness  and  care  of  our  driver  was  illustrated 
by  the  sudden  discovery  that  we  had  run  out  of 
gasoline,  while  yet  but  about  half  way  to  our 
destination.  While  we  were  waiting  for  gaso- 
line to  be  brought  to  us,  from  a  station,  for- 
tunately not  far  away,  a  delegate  from  Quebec 
and  this  writer  walked  on  until  w^e  came  to  a 
village  and  turned  up  into  the  school  yard  where 
Japanese  boys  aged  from  eight  to  twelve  were 
playing  ball.  A  great  host  of  little  girls  were 
playing  in  another  part  of  the  yard  and  m> 
companion,  Oswald  Mayrand,  sought  to  take 
their  pictures.  They  fled  into  the  school  house, 
but  later  ventured  out,  under  their  teacher's 
encouragement,  and  permitted  the  picture  to  be 
taken.  There  were  some  one  hundred  fifty 
pupils  in  the  school.  The  principal  was  a  Jap- 
anese man  and  his  assistant  a  Japanese  girl, 
who  was  arrayed  in  Japanese  costume,  wore 
sandals,  a  many  colored  kimono  with  a  cushion 
at  the  back  and  had  a  short  body  with  a  big 
head  and  face  with  a  great  bulk  of  jet  black 
hair. 

We  visited  with  the  teachers  and  the  chil- 
dren, had  our  pictures  taken  enmasse,  and  all 
in  all  were  very  glad  that  our  Hawaiian  driver 
had  been  so  careless  as  to  run  out  of  gasoline. 
Finally  the  gasoline  came,  and  on  the  second 
attempt  we  made  the  grade.  We  had  turned 
our  backs  upon  the  road  to  "hell;"  had  desert- 
ed the  "House  of  Everlasting  Fire"  and  we 
were  to  have  nothing  more  to  do,  at  that  time, 
with  the  spitfire  goddess  Pele,  although  we  all 
still  confess  to  the  enslaving  quality  of  her 
charms. 


WITH   WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  143 


LETTER  XX\'ii. 
Mr.  Kawasaki  Talks 

Honolulu,    October   20,    1921 

From  the  Nolcanoeis  we  returned  to  Hilo  and 
prepared  for  a  dinner  to  be  given  by  the  Hilo 
Yacht  Ghib  and  later  to  attend  a  special  enter- 
tainment to  be  put  on  in  the  Japanese  theater 
for  the  benefit  of  the  visitors  to  the  city. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  much  about 
that  Yacht  club  dinner.  Will  it  not  be  sufficient 
to  just  print  the  menu  and  let  it  go  at  that?  A 
study  of  the  menu  by  our  readers  will  demon- 
strate to  them  at  once  that  Iowa  people  don't 
know  anything  about  high  living  at  all.  Out 
here  in  the  Hawaiian  islands  we  hit  the  high 
spots  only  when  it  conies  to  eating.  Well,  here 
is  that  menu.  Read  it  and  see  what  you  missed: 

Kai-Helo  O  Ka  Hie  Inai  Barena  Mikomiko 

Oliva  O  Italia  Akaakai  Onaona 

Mau'u  Hilo 

la   Lawalu   O   Kanakea 

Uwala    Mahikihiki 

Puaa  Kaliia  Waiono  O  Ka  Apala 

Uwala  Uwai   O   Puna 

Maia  O  Ka  E-A  Na  Ulu  O  Weli 

Luau  O  Waipio  He  Ono  Kaohi  Puu 

Koele-Palau 

Hau  Huihui  O  Maiina  Kea 

Na  Meaono 

Kope  O  Kona  Pua  Ka  Uwahi  O  Kilauea 

All  this  was  served  on  beautifully  decorated 
tables,  gorgeous  yellow  and  red  flowers  being 
used  in  an  abundant  profusion,  while  stream- 
ers of  big  leaved  greenery  were  everywhere  in 
evidence.  There  were  a  number  of  special  dig- 
nitaries present  at  this  dinner,  among  them 
General    Charles    Summerall,    in   command    at 


144  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Scliofield  Barracks,  U.  8.  Army  Department  of 
Hawaii;  Admiral  Simj^son,  in  command  of  the 
naval  forces  with  headquarters  at  Pearl  Har- 
bor; Japanese  Consul  General  Yadda;  Senator 
John  Wise;  Mayor  John  Wilson  and  others. 

The  most  interesting  jDart  of  the  dinner  to 
this  writer,  though,  and  the  j^art  that  will  be 
most  interesting  to  our  readers,  if  they  are  at 
all  interested,  was  the  prejiaration  of  "Puaa 
iKalua."  That  we  watched  and  it  Avas  interest- 
ing l)ecause  it  was  ]H-epared  in  the  old  Hawaiian 
method.  The  "Puaa  Kalua"  was  roast  pig,  and 
it  was  roasted  out  in  the  front  yard,  in  a  hole 
in  tlie  ground.  Native  Hawaiians  presided  over 
the  operation  and  it  was  accomplished  by  the 
use  of  hot  stones,  upon  which  the  dressed  pig 
was  laid  in  a  pit  and,  not  satisfied  with  making 
the  pig  lie  upon  a  bed  of  red  hot  rocks  they  also 
stuffed  his  "innards"  with  the  same  material. 
He  was  wrapped  then  in  big  leaves,  called  ti 
(tee)  leaves,  and  sweet  potatoes  and  bananas 
were  also  snugly  tucked  round  about  him  and 
he  was  left  in  tropic  comfort  for  some  two  or 
three  hours. 

I  watched  the  disinterment.  The  dusky  col- 
ored cook  would  bathe  his  hand  in  cold  water, 
grab  a  rock  from  the  pig's  interior,  take  an- 
other hand  l)ath  and  drag  out  another  rock  un- 
til the  naked  pig  was  in  shape  to  be  lifted  in 
fragments  from  the  grimy  looking  pit.  The 
scene  was  not  conducive  to  the  develo]3ment  of 
a  good  ai)petite  for  roast  pig,  or  anything  else, 
and  the  ing  served  was  not  nearly  as  tasty  as 
are  the  portions  of  roast  pork  that  are  dished 
up  after  they  have  gone  through  the  modern 
cooking  processes  at  home;  but,  this  was  done 
for  the  novelty  of  the  thing,  and  no  doubt,  as 
a  novelty,  we  ought  to  be  able  to  stand  for  it 
at  least  once. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  145 


After  llic  (liiiner,  which  was  (•oncludcd  as 
above  noted  witli  "i)ua  Ua  mvahi  o  kilauea," 
which  ill  this  iiarticiihii'  instance  was  intended 
to  mean  ''smokes,''  tliere  was  a  ])i-oftTam  of 
speakiiifi'  as  usual  and  tlien  the  guests  were 
driven  to  tlie  loeal  Japanese  theater  where  a 
special  sliow  was  to  be  given  in  honor  of  the 
press  delegates  ))y  the  Japanese  of  the  city. 

The  Japanese  population  of  Hilo  had  made 
great  preparation  for  this  performance  and  it 
was  a  splendid  entertainment.  Not  the  least  in- 
teresting part  of  the  show  to  the  visitors  was 
the  Japanese  audience.  S])ecial  seats  had  been 
left  for  the  press  delegates  but  all  others  were 
occupied  by  the  Japanese  residents  of  Hilo. 
There  were  hundreds  of  them,  all  sizes,  shapes 
and  forms;  all  in  good  humor,  smiling,  happy. 
This  was  their  night! 

There  was,  of  course,  deliberately  on  the 
l)art  of  the  Japanese,  a  strong  flavor  of  Ameri- 
icanism  throughout  the  most  of  the  program. 
It  opened  with  the  singing  of  Ameiica  by  some 
fifty  or  sixty  little  Japanese  girls  and  boys  pret- 
tily grouped  upon  the  stage  and  waving  U.  S. 
flags.  Following  that  came  the  first  "insinu- 
ating" part  of  the  progTam,  an  address  of  wel- 
come by  little  Miss  Higachi,  a  cute  little  Jap- 
anese miss  of  about  fifteen  years  of  age;  one 
who  s]:)oke  unl)roken  English,  and  one  who,  had 
it  not  been  for  the  almond  turn  to  her  eyes  and 
the  little  deeper  than  usual  dark  to  her  com- 
plexion might  have  passed  very  easily  for  a 
bright  student  of  an  Iowa  high  school. 

I  question  if  she  wrote  her  address  all  her- 
self. There  were  some  adroit  references  to  the 
race  problem  made  and  there  was  a  delicate  un- 
dercurrent of  appeal  for  sympathy  for  the  Jap- 
anese. There  was  nothing  objectionable  about 
the  little  talk,  but  there  was  a  transparency  in 


146  A  TRIP   TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

it  tliat  did  not  escape  detection  on  the  part  of 
the  members  of  the  press  company  present.  In 
a  very  gentle  way  the  little  girl  nrged  upon  her 
hearers  the  claim  that  the  Japanese  children 
here  are  won  to  American  customs  and  institu- 
tions; irrevocably  devoted  to  them,  and  the  fin- 
al thought  left  with  the  audience  had  to  do  with 
the  fact,  that,  since  these  children,  born  of  Jap- 
anese parents  in  the  United  States,  had  been 
reared  under  advanced  institutions  fostered  by 
the  Americans  it  would  be  impossible  for  them 
to  be  anything  but  Americans.  Reared  in  our 
schools,  under  our  flag,  taught  our  way  of  liv- 
ing, it  would  be  impossible  for  the  children  of 
the  common  Japanese  living  in  the  United 
States  to  go  back  to  Japan  and  exist  as  they 
have  to  exist  in  Japan.  In  other  words,  un- 
less they  ;are  allowed  to  stay  in  America  they 
will  be  homeless.  The  little  girl  made  a  hit,  de- 
spite her  daring,  but  at  that  she  wasn't  a  mark- 
er to  what  followed  later  in  the  evening. 

Following  this  address  of  welcome  tliere 
was  a  very  pretty  exercise  by  little  Japanese 
girls,  probably  five  to  eight  years  of  age.  Spe- 
cial instrumental  numbers  on  the  "koto"  and 
flute  by  the  Misses  "Uyemoto,"  "Hiratsuka" 
and  "Shimamura"  and  Messrs.  "Maruliashi" 
and  "Takuchi. "  Then  there  were  more  exer- 
cises; the  song  "Aloha;"  an  exercise  "Yama- 
to-Sakura;"  a  beautiful  Japanese  dance  given 
by  two  of  the  young  women  in  Japanese  cos- 
tume and  following  that  a  very  spectacular,  l^ril- 
liant  and  all  together  novel  parade  of  ancient 
Japanese  characters.  These  were  supposed  to 
represent  legendary  characters  and  some  some- 
what obscure  historical  characters,  no  doul)t. 
The  spectacle  was  a  very  novel  and  beautiful 
thing. 

Followino-  that  came  the  second  sensation  of 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  147 

the  c'veiiiiii;'.  Mr.  K.  Jvawasaki  was  billed  Tor 
an  address,  and  he  was  "there  with  the  goods." 
As  has  been  stated  before:  this  was  Japanese 
evening.  Mi-.  Kawasaki  had  j)rei)ared  for  it. 
He  opened  his  address  with  the  most  extrava- 
gant words  of  res])e('t  in  favor  of  his  audience  of 
"ilhistrions"  people  representing  the  "most 
powerful  influence  in  the  world"  and  deplored 
liis  unwortliiness  to  presmne  to  address  them  in 
a  fitting  manner;  but,  he  did  his  best!  And,  he 
launched  into  a  bold,  unequivocating  discussion 
of  the  race  question;  challenging  the  charge 
that  the  Japanese  are  not  loyal  to  the  United 
States  and  hesitating  not  a  minute  to  discuss 
any  ])hase  of  the  controversy  from  A  to  Z. 

Mr.  Kawasaki  is  a  graduate  of  one  of  our 
eastern  colleges;  speaks  perfect  English;  is  a 
ready  orator  and  his  arguments  were  made  in 
about  the  same  manner  that  is  used  by  ])rofes- 
sional  de))aters.  He  was  as  logical  as  could  be 
expected,  fairly  convincing  in  many  of  his  as- 
sertions and  claims,  but  his  address  just  about 
confirmed  the  suspicion  already  gaining  ground 
in  the  minds  of  many  that  the  Japanese  had 
staged  this  show  just  for  the  purpose  of  getting 
in  one  good  shot  at  the  press  people;  feeling  that 
unless  they  did  so,  the  press  people,  in  the  hands 
always  of  the  Americans  would  go  away  en- 
tirely too  prejudiced  against  the  Japs. 

I  can  hardly  say  that  the  members  of  the 
press  party  were  provoked  when  they  learned 
that  they  had  been  sort  of  double  crossed  by 
the  Japanese.  Some  were  amused.  Some  ex- 
cused them.  Others  scolded  because  a  good 
show  had  been  interrupted  by  too  much  propa- 
ganda effort.  C.  Yada,  the  Japanese  consul  at 
Honolulu,  was  present  and  the  day  after  the  in- 
cident he  apologized  to  the  president  of  the 
press  congress  for  the  "nerve"  of  the  Jap  ora- 


148  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

tor,  and  all  was  forgiven.  To  the  credit,  too, 
of  the  Japanese  chairman  of  the  evening,  it 
must  be  stated  that  he  began  to  feel  that  the 
orator  was  getting  too  long  winded,  so  he  called 
him  down  by  advising  him  that  there  was  still 
considerable  "show"  left,  it  was  getting  late 
and  the  "illustrious  visitors"  were  billed  to  sail 
from  the  island  of  Hawaii  at  11  o'clock  that 
night. 

Mr.  Kawasaki  quit  rather  abruptly.  He  had 
imposed  good  naturedly  upon  good  nature. 
There  was  no  i^articular  harm  done.  The  Jap- 
anese of  Hilo  had  prepared  for  the  Press  Con- 
gress visitors  such  a  show  as  few  of  them  had 
ever  seen  before;  none  might  ever  see  again. 
The  event  was  all  the  more  interesting  because 
of  the  Kawasaki  event.  This  was  something 
strikingly  different;  typical,  perhaps.  It  gave 
the  "illustrious  visitors"  another  view  of  the 
Japanese,  and  we  were  out  for  "views."  Many 
were  seeking  knowledge.  This  came  at  an  un- 
expected moment.  It  came  in  a  way  that  was 
a  little  annoying  to  the  one  who  was  seeking 
after  entertainment  only,  but  to  those  who  like 
to  see  into  the  depths  of  things  this  incident 
was  a  real  happy  occurrence. 

Next  came  some  demonstrations  of  ju-jitsu 
by  Japanese  athletes  and  this  ])art  of  the  pro- 
gram made  a  never  to  be  forgotten  hit.  Few  of 
those  present  had  ever  seen  anything  like  it  be- 
fore, and  the  performance  was  really  marvelous 
in  its  illustration  of  Japanese  skill  in  the  art 
above  named.  It  was  so  interesting  because  it 
was  so  different.  The  finale  of  this  part  of  the 
program  was  not  as  pleasant  as  the  wrestling 
demonstrations.  One  of  the  muscular  Jap  boys 
ran  a  few  long  ]uns,  they  looked  like  hair  pins, 
through  the  muscles  of  his  right  arm  and  let 
them  stay  there  quite  a  while,  while  several  in 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  14i) 

tlie   audicTico   joined    tliis   writer   in   sliivering. 

The  final  reatiire  oi'  tlie  show  was  the  most 
spectaeiihir  thing  of  the  evening;  a  wordless 
play,  entitled  "The  Spirit  of  Spider."  This 
was  so  splendidly  oriental  in  all  its  features  as 
to  l)e  a  rare  treat  to  all.  The  acting  was  bril- 
liant; the  costumes  gorgeously  Japanese  in  ev- 
ery ]iavticular. 

Thus  ended  Japanese  evening  in  liilo.  The 
events  in  connection  were  sufficiently  signifi- 
cant to  get  large  press  notice,  but  no  one  was 
liui-t  and  the  press  people  got  a  chance  to  hear 
most  of  Mr.  Kawasaki's  carefully  prepared  ad- 
dress, in  which  the  Jap  cause  was  interestingly 
and  cleverlv  defended. 


150  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXVIIL 
"The  House  Built  By  the  Sun" 

Honolulu,    October  24,    1921 

We  left  Hilo  the  evening"  of  October  14th, 
hound  for  Kahnhii,  ishmd  of  Maui,  where  we 
arrived  tlie  morning  of  the  15th  and  were 
received  by  tlie  peoj^le  of  Ivahnhii  in  the  cor- 
dial way  common  to  all  the  people  of  the  Hawai- 
ian islands.  There  was  a  county  fair  on  and  im- 
mediately after  the  boat  had  docked,  as  nearly 
as  it  could  at  this  shallow  water  port,  and  the 
visitors  had  been  taken  ashore  by  small  boats, 
they  were  transported  in  automobiles  to  the 
fair  grounds  where  they  had  a  fine  opportun- 
ity to  see,  not  only  the  products  of  the  island 
representing  modern  forms  of  things  agricul- 
tural, Init  very  many  uniquely  interesting  cre- 
ations, the  work  of  native  Hawaiians  who  still 
do  clever  weaving,  etc.,  out  of  native  grasses. 
Also  there  was  on  display  very  many  relics  of 
ancient  Hawaii. 

Aside  from  the  purely  native  features,  typi- 
fying early  Hawaii,  the  fair  was  not  much  dif- 
ferent from  an  Iowa  fair,  in  its  exhibits  and  its 
entertainments.  They  had  their  grain,  fruit  and 
floral  exhibits;  their  fancywork  booths,  their 
stock  show,  their  automobile  and  implement  ex- 
hibits, etc.  Then,  too,  they  had  the  merry-go- 
round,  the  baby  rack,  the  cane  racks,  the  ferris 
wlieel,  fruit  stands,  "hot  dog"  sandwiches  (or 
something  that  smelt  like  scorched  dog,)  ice 
cream  cones,  candies,  balloons,  etc.,  etc. 

The  "different"  thing  about  it  all  though 
^vas  the  conglomerate  crowd:  the  (liinese,  the 
Japanese,  the  Portuguese,  the  Filii)inos,  the  na- 


)-> 


WITH    WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  151 

t'wo  I  l.iwniiniis,  tlio  Koreans,  tlic  four  or  five 
other  iiatioiia lilies  ('ons])it'iiously  in  evidence, 
big*  and  little,  roaniini^'  al)oiit  over  the  grounds, 
eating  cones,  licking  all-day  suckers,  smoking 
cigarettes,  laugliing,  chattering  in  many  ton 
gues  and  liaving  a  regular  "county  fair"  of  a 
time. 

There  were  boys  of  fifty-seven  different  var- 
ieties, it  apix'ared,  and  of  as  man^^  sizes.  Not 
an  uncommon  sight  was  that  of  Japanese  moth- 
ers, dressed  in  native  costume;  short  little 
women,  with  big  heads,  big  l)undles  of  hair  on 
the  summit,  wearing  kimonos  and  sandals  and 
shuffling  along  over  the  grounds  leading  a  baby 
or  two,  with  three  or  four  or  five  straggling 
along  behind.  There  were  the  Kiwaiian  mat- 
rons and  misses,  too.  They  run  to  corpulency 
rather  freely  and  they  dress  a  great  deal  like 
the  women  of  the  United  States  dress,  although 
the  short  skirt  has  not  engaged  the  attention 
of  tlie  Hawaiian  women  yet.  Tliey  still  wear 
long  slvirts  and  seem  to  favor  the  train.  On  a 
little  stage  at  the  end  of  one  of  the  exhibit  halls 
little  Hawaiian  girls  in  grass  skirts  danced  the 
hula  hula  to  rather  crude  music  made  by  an  an- 
cient Hawaiian  dame  on  a  very  simph^  formed 
stringed  instrument  which  may  have  been  in- 
tended for  a  ukelele. 

The  most  interesting  girls  we  saw  were 
Chinese  girls,  young  ladies  about  sixteen  to 
nineteen  years  of  age.  They  dressed  in  silk  or 
sateen  pantaloons  and  coat,  the  pantaloons 
loosely  hanging,  the  coat  in  some  instances  a 
sort  of  a  cut-away,  rather  long.  They  wore 
dainty  American  shoes,  no  hats  and  their  hair 
was  either  in  a  braid  down  the  back,  or  in  two 
coils  at  the  back  of  the  head,  the  coils  held  up 
by  pretty  white  ornaments,  made  of  ivory,  or 
bone.    A  group  of  those  dainty  little  creatures 


152  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

nioviiift"  about,  neatly  though  iiiii(|uely  dressed, 
never  failed  to  attract  the  admiring  attention 
of  the  visitors  from,  abroad.  No  one  could  fail 
to  l)e  impressed  by  the  common  sense  simplic- 
ity of  the  garments  and  there  was  an  entire  ab- 
sence from  the  attire  of  anything  that  might 
be  regarded  as  suggestive  or  daring.  It  takes 
our  own  American  girls  to  pull  that  kind  of 
stuff. 

I  don't  remember  whether  I  explained  be- 
fore that  the  Hawaiian  islands  are  all  volcanic. 
They  extend  from  the  southeast  to  the  north- 
west, some  1600  miles.  There  are  about  thirty 
of  them,  but  only  a  few  of  the  larger  ones  are 
large  enough  to  he  usefully  inhabited.  The  one 
of  those  farthermost  southeast  is  Hawaii,  and 
it  is  the  newest  in  volcanic  formation.  It  is  not 
finished  yet.  Its  volcanoes  are  still  at  work, 
some  of  them  as  heretofore  described. 

The  island  of  Maui,  next  northwest,  is  the 
next  youngest  island.  It  has  no  live  volcanoes 
on  it,  but  it  has  the  biggest  dead  one  in  the 
world,  it  is  claimed.  That  is,  the  l)iggest  ex- 
tinct crater.  It  is  called  Mt.  Haleakala— "The 
House  Built  by  the  Sun."  Arrangements  had 
been  made  to  care  for  those  of  our  party  who 
wanted  to  make  the  ascent  of  Haleakala  to  the 
number  of  thirty,  there  being  night  accommo- 
dations for  about  that  number  at  the  summit. 
Some  forty-five  of  our  party  had  expressed  a 
wish  to  make  the  ascent,  but  in  the  final  an- 
alysis but  twenty-six  lined  up  for  the  tri]).  This 
writer  was  one  of  that  number  and  in  conse- 
quence the  twenty-six  left  the  rest  of  the  party 
at  noon  and  started  for  the  sunnnit  of  the  mount- 
ain-, the  object  being  to  get  there  l)efore  sunset. 

Haleakala  is  a  little  over  10,000  feet  high, 
and  in  making  the  ascent  we  started  at  sea 
level.    It  is  not  like  our  western  mountains,  nl- 


WITH   WORLDS   I'llESS   CONGRESS  153 


ready  six,  seven,  ei,i;lil  tlioiisaiul  feet  lii^li  be- 
fore they  start  to  go  higher.  Here  you  start 
ch'ai-  at  tlie  bottom  and  go  clear  to  the  to]).  For 
thai  ii'ason  tlie  trip  is  not  an  easy  one.  It 
means  a  \ery  great  change  of  temperature  in  a 
short  \vhih%  as  well  as  a  sudden  change  from 
heavy  sea  level  atmosj^here  to  an  exceedingly 
more  ra rifled  brand  of  ozone. 

We  went  as  far  as  we  could  in  the  automo- 
biles and  then  changed  to  horses  for  the  last 
eight  miles  of  the  trip  and  the  final  cliral)  of 
between  five  and  six  thousand  feet.  The  north 
side  of  Haleakala  edges  on  a  narrow  strip  of 
the  island  of  Maui  and  shortly  after  the  ascent 
begins  the  ocean  can  be  seen  on  both  sides  of 
this  narrow,  low  strip  while  the  mountainous 
country  beyond  contributes  a  fascinating  ele- 
ment to  the  scenery.  With  each  increasing  rise 
of  a  few  hundred  feet  new  lieauties  come  in 
view  and  at  any  time  during  the  u])ward  jour- 
ney, if  one  will  just  stop  and  look,  he  can  get 
such  a  breath  of  delightful  scenery  as  will  fill 
him  full  to  overflowing  with  poetical  thoughts. 

Of  course,  though,  poetical  thoughts  and 
rocky  mountain  paths  over  which  one  rides  on 
a  somewhat  reluctant  horse,  or  mule,  do  not  al- 
ways blend  into  a  perfectly  harmonious  com- 
bination. One  sometimes  has  difficulties  in  ad- 
justing his  mental  self  to  that  nicety  of  bal- 
ance that  will  permit  him  to  forget  the  rather 
precii)itous  declines  at  his  side,  ignore  the  ever 
present  thought  of  what  might  happen  if  his 
horse  would  stuml)le  and  fall,  and  persist  in  fix- 
ing his  mind  and  thoughts  upon  the  sweeping 
landscape  beyond,  the  green  towering  mount- 
ains in  the  distance,  the  soft  bed  of  sea  weaving 
into  pretty  little  bays,  and  the  gentle  horizon 
of  blue  wrapping  its  tender  arms  around  the 
whole  scene. 


154  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

We  could  not  look  at  scenery  all  the  while 
as  we  ]Hcked  our  deliberate  way  up  the  rough 
and  rugged  path  heavenward.  True,  some  ten 
guides  and  other  local  companions  Avatched 
carefully  that  there  were  no  accidents  and  that 
no  one  wandered  from  the  path,  or  lagged  too 
far  behind,  but  with  all  those  safeguards  each 
rider  had  his  own  important  duties  to  perform 
in  saving  himself  from  possible  eml)arrassment. 

Most  of  us,  as  on  previous  occasions,  trusted 
to  our  mounts,  hung  on  to  our  saddles,  and,  of 
course,  glanced  outward  once  in  a  while,  just 
often  enough  to  make  it  appear  that  we  were 
not  helplessly  afraid.  We  added  frequently  to 
our  bold  attitude  the  testimony  of  such  an  ex- 
clamation as  "Isn't  that  i)erfectly  wonderful." 
And  it  always  was,  so  we  were  safe  at  all  times 
in  extravagant  comments  whether  they  were 
heart-prompted  or  not. 

We  reached  the  top  of  the  mountain  before 
sundown  and  we  stood  upon  the  rim  of  Halea- 
kala  in  broad  daylight  and  looked  down  into 
the  immense  crater  before  the  shades  of  night 
had  begun  to  darken  the  depths.  We  saw  the 
shades  finally  come,  the  rim  of  sunlight  slowly 
creep  up  along  the  walls,  and  the  deep  of  the 
crater  take  on  an  unspeaking  darkness. 

Before  night  had  come  we  had  distinguished 
tlie  thirteen  little  craters  within  the  big  one, 
tiny  cones,  from  700  to  1000  feet  high  insignif- 
icantly dotting  the  great  bed  of  the  crater  prop- 
er. We  could  detect,  too,  at  a  depth  of  about 
3000  feet  evidences  of  some  vegetable  life  on 
the  floor  of  the  crater.  The  ages  have  built 
a  floor  of  soil  over  a  ])art  of  the  crater  bottom 
and  on  that  has  grown  up  trees  and  other 
greenery  and  in  this  comparatively  safe  zone 
wild  goats  make  merry  as  the  centuries  come 
and  go. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  155 

The  ra.i>'i>'('(l  rim  of  tliis  crater  is  20  miles  in 
eirciimference.  'I'lie  mount;! in  em))lie(l  its  flow 
of  lava  out  tliroii<2,li  an  openiiiii,-  that  reaches  to 
the  sea  but  the  <;i-eatest  (lei)th  within  the  crater 
is  oOOO  feet.  8ome  have  i)ronounced  the  grand- 
eur of  llaleakala  more  impressive  than  tliat  of 
the  (irand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado.  As  for  this 
writer,  I  ])refer  to  remain  nentral  in  tlie  con- 
troversy. The  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado 
illustrates  the  worlv  of  erosion.  The  flow  of 
many  waters  during  liundreds  of  centuries  has 
torn  great  gaps  through  the  mountains  and 
left  on  the  exposed  walls  such  marvelous  color- 
ings on  such  wide  stretches  of  rock  canvas  as 
make  all  men  marvel.  At  Halekala  another 
nature  force  wrought  its  wonderful  picture.  Fire 
in  a  blatant  mood  stirred  up  such  a  commotion 
in  the  heart  of  this  mountain  as  resulted  in  an 
exi)losion  that  threw  an  ocean  of  flames  and 
lava  floods  tlirough  the  to])  of  the  mountain 
and  left  the  poor  old  mountain  with  its  heart 
exposed  to  the  changing  weathers  of  countless 
centuries.  Ai)proaching  the  summit,  one  would 
ex])ect  to  find  the  usual  top  of  a  mountain,  an- 
other side  moving  off  toward  the  distant  sea. 
Instead,  one  comes  suddenly  to  a  ragged  rim 
and  looks  down  into  a  hole  in  the  mountain 
to]);  a  deep,  uninviting,  yet  wonderfully  beauti- 
ful cavity,  large  enough,  someone  has  said,  to 
bury  all  of  the  buildings  of  new  New  York  City 
within  and  still  have  room  enough  to  dump  the 
buildings  of  Chicago  on  top,  leaving  still  more 
volcanic  space  as  a  dum]nng  ground  for  other 
cast  off  materials. 

We  have  made  no  verification  of  the  fig- 
ures above  quoted.  We  do  not  confirm  them. 
All  we  do  know  is  that  we  have  stood  upon  the 
edge  of  the  "House  Built  by  the  Sun"  and  we 
have  decided  that  the  sun  is  some  artisan,  some 


156  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

builder  of  world  wonders.  There  is  a  legend 
in  Hawaiian  history  which  says  that  while  the 
sun  was  building  the  house  in  Haleakala  he  fell 
in  love  with  a  beautiful  princess  cf  the  reign- 
ing house  of  the  Hawaiians  and  told  the  prin- 
cess that  whatever  she  asked  she  might  have. 
The  i)rincess  asked  that  the  terrible  heat  of 
Maui  might  be  modified  so  that  the  people  of 
the  island  would  not  in  the  future  suffer  so 
much  from  it.  The  sun  therefore  caused  a  gen- 
tle, cooling  breeze  to  mark  its  perpetual  course 
across  the  low  lands  of  Maui  and  thus  bring  to 
the  people  of  that  land  the  cooling  comfort  so 
mucli  needed.  p]ver  since,  the  breeze  has  been 
there.  It  was  there  when  we  arrived;  it  was 
there  when  iwe  left.  The  natives  have  faith  that 
it  will  be  there  for  ever  and  ever. 

Up  at  the  top  of  Haleakala  the  breeze  is 
never  needed,  but  its  always  there,  too.  It  is  a 
cold  breeze  at  that  elevation;  very  cold.  Just 
as  soon  as  the  sun  went  down,  and  darkness 
came  on,  and  it  comes  very  cpiickly  after  sun- 
down there,  the  cold  became  rather  bitterly 
penetrating,  and  the  guests  at  the  summit  hast- 
ened to  put  on  sweaters  and  hunted  the  breeze- 
less  corners  under  the  protection  of  the  walls  of 
the  stone  house.  By  the  way,  the  summit  house 
is  a  one  story,  one  roomed  house,  and  we  found 
upon  counting  noses  that  in  all  there  were 
forty-two  people  to  eat  and  sleep  in  the  one 
room  of  that  one  roomed  house  that  night.  The 
guides,  who  were  much  like  cowboys  in  their 
appearance  and  demeanor,  seemed  perfectly  at 
ease  under  such  circumstances.  They  were  of 
several  different  nationalities  but  all  a  happy 
go  lucky  lot  of  chaps  and  it  fell  to  their  lot  to 
do  all  the  cooking,  serve  the  evening  dinner, 
etc.  One  short  little  Chinaman  was  the  cook 
in  the  interior  of  the  summit  house  where  he 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  157 

was  prei);iriii,i2;'  in  what  looked  like  an  old  lard 
can,  a  mixture  wliicli  he  described  to  curious 
investigators  as  a  "stew."  Outside,  on  the 
lee  side  of  tlie  buildino-  another  cook,  a  Hawai- 
ian, was  preparing  the  coffee,  over  an  ini])ro- 
vised  grate  wluch  balanced  threateningly  at  all 
times  on  the  ragged  edge  of  collapse. 

It  was  a  good  supper  though;  there  was 
l)lenty  of  stew  and  plenty  of  coffee.  No  one 
asked  what  the  stew  was  made  of,  and  unchew- 
able  fragments  of  rags,  etc.,  were  pleasantly 
expectorated  upon  the  floor  by  those  who  hap- 
pened to  discover  them,  and  the  merry  music 
of  lapping  up  the  soup  went  on.  The  coffee, 
too,  was  hot,  and  heat  was  the  primary  thing 
in  demand.  The  diners  dined  in  installments 
and  then  after  all  had  eaten,  the  most  of  the 
party  got  out  on  the  lee  side  of  the  summit 
house  and  danced  and  sang  and  yelled,  "just  to 
])ass  the  time  away." 

The  crater  of  Haleakala  shows  dark  by 
night,  very  dark,  black.  The  thing  terrifies  in 
its  utter  depths  of  dark,  but  off  toward  the 
course  of  our  afternoon's  journey  upward, 
great  banks  of  silver  clouds  rolled.  They  were 
])erhaps  about  three  thousand  feet  below  ns, 
and  the  full  moonlight  gave  them  their  silver 
sheen.  There  was  an  ocean  of  these  clouds  fill- 
ing all  the  valleys  aliout  us  to  the  north,  and 
even  the  lights  of  the  towns  below  were  shut 
off  from  us.  This  was  a  spectacular  cloud  ex- 
hibit which  had  not  been  billed  as  a  part  of  the 
regular  program. 

We  sle]3t  as  best  we  could  that  night.  I 
think  the  extent  of  disrobing  consisted  of  tak- 
ing off  the  shoes,  only.  I  know  that  was  all  I 
took  off,  and  that  was  enough.  I  awoke  early, 
too;  and  I  got  up  just  as  soon  as  I  could  get 
out  from  under  the  various  parts  of  five  or  six 


158  A  TRIP   TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

other  imoiintain  climbers  who  liad  spread  them- 
selves sort  of  indiscriminately  around  over  the 
lar^e  but  sufficiently  numerous  bunks  up- 
on which  the  guests  were  supposed  to  lie.  A 
cowboy  was  sitting  up  smoking  a  cigarette.  I 
asked  him  the  time.     It  was  3:30. 

Wrapping  a  blanket  about  myself,  over  all 
my  other  clothes,  I  went  out  to  look  for  the 
southern  cross.  I  didn't  find  it.  I  am  not  sure 
there  is  such  a  thing,  or,  if  there  is,  if  it  is 
worth  looking  for.  The  clouds  had  broken,  how- 
ever, and  away  below  us  I  could  see  the  lights 
of  Kahului,  Wailuku  and  Puu  Hele.  After  a 
little  while,  though,  a  cool,  damp  cloud  settled 
down  over  the  top  of  our  mountain  and  I  was 
driven  in  for  a  time.  Later  ^n  the  morning  the 
clouds  drifted  away,  the  sun  came  up  radiant- 
ly bright,  the  crater  was  again  an  open  book 
and  we  looked  once  more  u])on  its  myriad  beau- 
tiful colorings  and  marveled  again  over  the 
magnitude  of  the  spectacle. 

The  ascent  of  the  Haleakala  is  worth  while. 
The  biggest  extinct  crater  in  the  world  is  a 
deeply  impressive  thing  to  look  upon.  One  who 
sees  it  w-ill  never  forget  it;  will  always  remem- 
ber it  with  strange  emotions,  and  often,  no 
doubt,  try  to  tell  about  it.  But,  it  is  "untell- 
able, "  just  as  are  so  many  other  things  which 
one  may  see  and  may  feel  in  one's  heart.  Hale- 
akala marks  one  of  the  most  stupendous  vol- 
canic upheavals  that  nature  carries  any  o])en 
record  of.  Here  one  may  see  the  pit  from  which 
flowed  oceans  of  lava  and  from  which  were 
thrown  up  immeasurable  quantities  of  ashes, 
flames,  rocks,  etc.  The  marvel  of  it  all  is 
though  that  tlie  pit  is  left  so  perfectly  formed, 
such  an  unbroken  outline  of  the  scene  of  Halea- 
kala's  one  time  activities. 

Our  tri])  down  the  mountain  was  uneventful. 


WITH    WORLD'S    PRF.SS   CONGRESS  159 

oxccptiii.n'  ill  so  t;ir  as  tlie  appropriation  of 
inoiintaiu  dirt  and  dust  by  the  travelers  con- 
tributed toward  tlie  sensational.  None  of  our 
])arty  having  washed,  or  combed,  or  changed 
their  ch)thes  since  we  left  sea  level  the  day  be- 
fore, it  is  not  strange  that  the  order  of  the 
"dirty  dozen"  witli  fnll  membersliip  and  wait- 
ing list,  was  organized  as  we  wended  our  ways 
to  the  foot  of  the  hills. 

Ex-Senator  Frank  P.  Glass  of  Birmingham, 
Alabama,  was  made  president  of  the  new  or- 
der; Reginald  Ortcnff,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  vice 
president,  and  J,  Zerby,  of  Pottsville,  Pa.,  sec- 
retary and  treasurer.  "J"  was  honored  by 
being  chosen  treasurer  because  he  seemed  to 
be  the  one  who  excelled  in  the  quantity  of  dirt 
accumulated. 

At  a  half  way  |)oint  at  the  foot  of  the  isteep- 
er  part  of  the  mountain  we  were  turned  aside 
up  a  little  road  and  to  the  residence  of  one  of 
the  wealthy  phuitation  owners  of  the  island 
where  we  were  permitted  to  "clean  up"  a  bit 
and  then  were  ushered  into  the  presence  of  a 
turkey  sandwich  luncheon  which  will  not  be 
forgotten  much  sooner  than  Haleakala's  won- 
ders. 

After  the  luncheon  we  took  our  deliberate 
time  in  driving  back  to  Kahului  where  after  an 
hour's  wait  on  the  dock  we  were  finally  gath- 
ered up  by  our  sliip's  motor  boat  and  taken 
out  to  the  Matsonia.  Soon  the  other  members 
of  our  party  came  drifting  in  from  a  tri])  around 
the  ishmd,  telling  us  about  the  Avonderful 
things  they  had  seen  and  the  splendid  treat- 
ment which  had  been  accorded  them  every- 
where they  Avent.  We  feel  though  that  we  had 
the  best  of  the  bargain  even  if  we  did  come  back 
from  the  mountain  top  tired.  Some  of  our  party 
admitted  a  few  days  later  that  the  Iri]^  had  been 


160  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

a  severe  one  on  tliem.  It  had  left  them,  as  one 
man  said,  "depressed."  I  am  of  the  opinion 
tliat  the  wide  spread  in  altitude,  with  the  at- 
tending si)read  in  temperature,  all  accomplish- 
ed in  so  short  a  time,  was  a  sort  of  physical 
shock,  like  the  sudden  j^lunge  into  cold  water, 
excepting  that  the  exhilarating  effect  of  the 
cold  water  plunge  was  not  felt  after  the  de- 
scent from  the  somewhat  frigid  temperature  of 
the  summit  of  Haleakala. 

The  evening's  entertainment  was  a  swim- 
ming exhibition  in  a  local  pool.  Duke  Kahan- 
amoku,  world  sj^rint  champion,  Warren  and 
Pua  Kealcha,  Marie  Wehselau  and  Helen  Moses 
of  the  American  Olympic  team  were  there  and 
of  course  put  on  some  show.  They  were  as- 
sisted by  some  fifteen  other  of  the  swiftest 
swimmers  of  the  islands.  Of  course  the  small 
boy  swimmer  w^as  there,  chuck  full  of  what  the 
announcer  called  "nut"  stunts.  We  left  Ka- 
hului  at  midnight  and  arrived  at  Honolulu  by 
breakfast  time  the  next  morning. 


WITH    WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  161 


LETTER  XXIX. 
The  World's  Press  Congress 

Honolulu,   October   27,    1!)21 

The  return  from  Maiii  to  Ilonolnhi  marked 
the  end  of  the  inter-island  tours.  Henceforth, 
our  stay  in  the  Hawaiian  ishmds  was  to  be  cen- 
tered on  the  island  of  Oaliu,  city  of  Honohilu. 

Tlie  Workl's  Press  Congress  convened  in 
this  city  the  morning  of  Oct.  17th  for  its  regu- 
hir  i)rogram,  to  cover  four  full  days  with  a  fifth 
day  to  be  given  over  to  the  meeting  of  what  is 
known  as  the  Pan-Pacific  Union  Press.  I  shall 
not  enter  into  an  extended  report  of  the  meet- 
ings of  this  congress.  Many  addresses  and 
papers  as  delivered  and  read  were  not  clearly 
"understandable"  to  me,  or  to  a  very  great 
number  of  the  other  people  in  atteadance.  They 
will  all  come  out  in  English  in  the  official  re- 
port of  the  proceedings,  some  day,  and  then, 
those  of  us  who  attended  the  meetings  will  be 
able  to  find  out  what  was  said. 

While  English  was  the  official  language  of 
the  Congress  and  while  it  was  presumably  used 
throughout  all  the  meetings,  yet  it  came  in  such 
broken  form  in  so  many  instances  that  it  was 
not  possible  to  follow  the  speakers.  There  were 
addresses  by  Spanish,  Greek,  French,  Korean, 
Chinese,  Japanese,  Norwegian,  etc.,  etc. 

Most  of  the  representatives  in  the  Congress 
were  from  the  United  States.  Many  of  those 
from  the  states  belong  to  the  same  class  as 
does  this  writer.  We  came,  not  because  we 
could  be  of  any  considerable  use  to  the  Con- 
gress, but  because  the  opportunity  for  travel, 
at  a  minimum  cost  with  maximum  advantages 


162  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

was  offered  us,  and  because  we  are  in  hearty 
sympatliy  witli  any  movement  wliicli  looks  to- 
ward the  hnprovement  of  international  condi- 
tions and  feel  that  a  better  understanding' 
among-  the  publishers  of  papers  in  the  differ- 
ent countries  of  the  world  will  tend  to  establish 
a  better  feeling  generally  between  the  different 
peoples  of  the  world. 

Man}'  of  the  papers  of  the  United  States 
represented  at  the  World's  Press  Congress  are 
not  papers  of  large  international  imr)ortance. 
The  publishers  did  not  so  pretend;  but  they  are 
in  all  instances  papers  of  considerable  local  im- 
]^ortance  somewhere.  It  takes  only  a  grouping 
of  local  fields  to  make  a  national  field  and  a 
gTOuping  of  national  fields  to  make  an  inter- 
national field.  There  was  not  a  paper  honestly 
represented  from  any  ])art  of  the  earth  at  this 
congress  that  was  not  of  some  heli)ful  import- 
ance in  the  great  convention. 

The  president  of  the  World  Press  Congress 
is  Walter  Williams,  head  of  the  School  of  Jour- 
nalism, Columbia,  Missouri,  the  first  school  of 
Journalism  ever  established  in  the  world.  The 
World  Press  Congress  is  largely  the  idea  of 
President  Williams.  It  is  as  yet  an  idea  that 
has  not  expanded  to  the  point  where  it  has 
g-ained  the  attention  of  the  most  important 
papers  in  the  world,  to  the  extent  to  be  desired. 
I  do  not  mean  by  that  that  the  effort  is  insig- 
nificant. It  is  widely  significant,  but  there  is 
much  room  yet  for  expansion.  There  are  a 
great  many  newspapers  in  the  world  that  are 
sort  of  sufficient  unto  themselves.  They  are 
aristocrats.  They  are  big  and  prosperous  and 
self  reliant,  and,  in  a  sense  so  headless,  or  with 
so  many  different  heads,  that  it  takes  quite  a 
splash  to  attract  their  attention. 

The  bigger  papers  of  tlie  United  States  were 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  163 

not  .nearly  all  represented  here.  Europe  was 
Avell  re])resente(]  from  (Jreat  I>i-itain,  but  from 
llie  iiin inland  there  was  not  enough  represen- 
tation, although  Greece,  Norway  and  Spain 
were  present  in  good  force.  The  next  Press 
Congress  will  perhaps  be  held  in  Europe  and 
in  that  event,  continental  Europe  will  no  doubt 
come  into  very  much  more  active  life.  But,  if 
the  newspapers  of  the  country  were  not  all  here, 
we  had  good  "movie"  representation  at  all 
times,  and  that  will  help  some.  AVherever  we 
went,  there  was  the  Patlie  man;  a  general  man 
who  supplies  all  weeklies;  and  still  another 
movie  man  who  took  everything  he  could  get. 
And,  there  were  "still"  pliotogra]ihers  by  the 
score,  at  times. 

As  I  have  stated  before,  the  object  of  the 
World  Press  Congress  is  to  establish  "World 
Press  Understanding."  We  all  know  that 
"newspaper  talk"  is  sometimes  the  cause  of 
trouble.  We  all  know  that  "newspaper  gos- 
sip," like  small  town  gossip,  is  often  uninten- 
tionally malicious,  and  frequently  the  basis  for 
quarrels  that  ought  to  have  been  avoided  and 
are  very  often  the  continuing  cause  of  resent- 
ment between  people  or  nations.  President 
William's  ideal  is  to  reduce  world  news  to  the 
lowest  possible  minimum  of  unreliability.  It 
is  doubtful  if  he  "will  get  the  boys  out  of  the 
trenches  before  Christmas,"  but  his  ambition 
is  to  help  get  them  out  and  in  that  movement 
substantial  headway  has  been  made  in  the  meet- 
ings here. 

As  a  presiding  officer  President  Williams  is 
all  that  might  be  desired.  He  is  at  all  times 
master  of  the  situations  developed  in  the  regu- 
lar course  of  the  ])roceedings.  He  has  a  keen 
sense  of  humor  that  helps  to  carry  him  through 
painfully  threatening  periods  of  monotony.  He 


164  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

has  nerve  .sufficient  to  "call"  tlie  self  import- 
ant individnal  \vlio  lias  an  uncontrollable  de- 
sire to  hear  his  own  voice  long  and  frequently. 
He  did  not  let  things  drag;  he  hurried  and  he 
urged  others  to  hurry.  He  made  friends  on 
every  hand  l)0cause  he  was  friendly;  is  friend- 
ly, naturally.  He  is  not  impressive  in  appear- 
ance, lie  wins  by  sheer  force  of  mental  dom- 
ination. He  is  not  pugnaciously  aggressive.  He 
insiiniates  himself  gently,  but  effectively  into 
the  heart  of  things  and  so,  there  was  no  drag 
in  the   World's   Press   Congress   i;roceedings. 

James  Wright  Brown,  the  secretary-treas- 
urer of  the  Congress,  is  Publisher  of  the  Editor 
&  Pul)lisher,  New  York  City.  He  was  usefully 
conspicuous  in  the  Honolulu  meetings  at  all 
times.  He  is  a  man  of  high  journalistic  ideals; 
like  President  Williams,  a  fine  Christian  gen- 
tleman, and  the  contagion  of  his  personality 
built  friends  for  him  on  every  hand.  Under 
such  officer  leadership  the  World's  Press  Con- 
gress should  radiate  peace,  justice,  good  will, 
charity  in  quantities  sufficient  to  rapidly  ])er- 
meate  the  world  which  was  never  before  in  a 
more  receptive  mood  for  such  influences  than 
it  is  now.  If  officership  will  insure  the  suc- 
cess of  this  Congress  we  have  won! 

One  could  not  fail  to  be  ])leasantly  impressed 
by  the  splendid  feeling  shown  between  the  dele- 
gates from  the  different  countries.  Ja])anese, 
Chinese  and  Koreans  fraternized,  apparently, 
in  the  most  cordial  manner.  They  treated  each 
other  with  the  most  considerate  courtesy,  and 
each  country  was  well  represented.  There  was 
a  grand  old  man  here  from  New  Zealand,  Mark 
Cohen,  by  name.  He,  too,  radiated  good  will 
and  peace  on  earth  at  all  times.  In  his  ad- 
dresses he  would  lose  himself  frequently  in 
gentle  eloquence.    Australia  with  three  or  four 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS 


165 


JAMES    WRIGHT    BROWN 

Secretary-Treasurer  elect  World's  Press  Congress 


Mr.  Brown  is  editor  of  "The  Editor  and  Publisher," 
New  York  City.  He  is  one  of  the  most  enthusiastic 
and  able  votaries  of  the  "World's  Press  Congress"  idea. 
AVe'll  say  he's  a  fine  gentleman!      He  was  always  busy. 


166  A  TRIP   TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

representatives,  too,  assumed  a  conspicuous 
l)art,  always,  in  those  debates  that  had  to  do 
with  anything  that  presumably  sought  to  bring 
the  people  of  the  world  into  a  closer  under- 
standing of  the  different  problems  that  face 
each,  individually. 

All  in  all,  we  can  sum  up  the  object  of  the 
World's  Press  Congress  about  as  above  out- 
lined. It  is  simply  a  get-together  organization; 
starting  in  a  small  way,  receiving  splendid 
treatment  on  every  hand,  and  recording  "suc- 
cess" as  the  verdict  passed  upon  the  results  at- 
tained at  this  meeting,  and  a  success  I  believe 
which  really  goes  beyond  what  might  have  rea- 
sonably been  hoped  for  prior  to  the  meeting. 
The  outlook  at  first  was  a  little  discouraging. 
The  attendance  from  the  United  States  was  a 
little  short  of  expectations;  but  it  was  suffic- 
ient, when  augmented  l)y  the  delegations  from 
the  orient  and  from  the  southern  lands,  to  make 
a  good  big  convention. 

Mr,  Williams  was  re-elected  president  of  the 
Congress  with  James  Wright  Brown  as  Vice 
President,  as  above  noted.  A  more  compact 
organization  has  l)een  ])erfected;  there  is  wider 
and  deeper  interest  in  the  movement  than  be- 
fore and  the  future  of  the  organization  as  a 
means  of  world  usefulness  is  not  at  all  un})roni- 
ising.  In  fact,  it  is  one  of  those  organizations 
from  which  the  negatives  seem  to  be  banished. 
It  must  either  do  good,  or  be  neutral  in  its  ef- 
fect. There  is  little  possibility  of  any  harm 
emanating  from  a  movement  which  has  as  its 
object  good,  only,  and  which  appeals  only  to 
the  unselfish  impulses  of  those  who  are  inter- 
ested in  it. 

in  caring  for  the  delegates  to  the  congress 
Honolulu  has  done  herself  proud.  Numerous 
round-the-island  excursions  have  been  given  the 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  10  7 

delegates,  s])eeial  shows  Iiunc  l)eeii  staged,  lec- 
tures on  siibjeets  of  particular  Hawaiian  inter- 
est have  been  delivered,  tours  of  inspection  to 
points  of  s])ecial  interest  in  and  near  the  city 
have  been  made,  and  all  has  been  free  from  ex- 
]  tense  to  the  visitors. 

One  evening  there  was  a  special  o])en  air  ex- 
hibition given  by  the  native  Hawaiians  in  which 
historical  scenes  of  Hawaiian  history  were  re- 
produced and  Hawaiian  singers  in  solos  and  in 
concert  entertained  in  a  way  peculiar  to  them- 
selves. Today  was  ])ublic  school  day;  tomor- 
row will  he  a  visit  to  the  jienitentiary  and  to 
the  leprosarium;  next  day  it  is  a  trip  to  the  navy 
yard  and  Friday  night  the  Chinese  in  the  citv 
are  staging  a  special  production:  "The  Yel- 
low Jacket"  to  which  the  delegates  are  admit- 
ted complimentary.  Saturday  night  there  are 
prize  fights  and  Sunday  there  are  special  serv- 
ices in  two  of  the  churches  and  a  football  game 
in  the  afternoon  for  those  who  care  to  go.  Mon- 
day free  automobiles  will  carry  us  out  into  the 
mountains  and  show  us  the  heauty  heights  of 
the  country  immediately  around  Honolulu, 
while  earlier  in  the  week  we  were  taken  in  an 
automol)ile  trip  clear  around  the  island  and  at 
that  the  half  has  hardly  been  told,  for  we  have 
been  to  a  pineapple  plantation  and  cannery, 
out  over  a  sugar  cane  plantation  and  through  a 
mill,  to  say  nothing  of  a  special  luncheon  init  on 
by  the  Ad  Club  and  a  swimming  party  staged 
by  the  "Out-rigger  Club."  Our  readers  will 
readily  note  that  there  are  certain  expenseless 
advantages  that  go  with  a  trip  of  this  kind 
that  are  not  common  to  one  when  he  tours  alone. 


168 


A  TRIP  TO   THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  169 


LETTER  XXX. 
Seventeen  Varieties 

Honolulu,    October   28,    1921 

Last  evening-  avo  heard  an  illustrated  lecture 
on  the  active  volcanoes  on  the  island  of  Hawaii 
and  it  filled  us  so  full  of  "lava"  again  that  I 
was  tempted  to  write  something  more  about  the 
great  volcanoes  of  Manna  Loa  and  Kilauea,  but 
this  morning  we  went  out  to  visit  the  peniten- 
tiary and  later  on  to  the  Ivalilii  Leprosarium 
and  we  saw  so  much  of  peculiar  interest  at 
these  places  that  this  little  sketch  will  be  a 
weak  effort  to  describe  something  of  what  we 
saw  and  heard  today. 

At  the  ])enitentiary  we  were  met  by  the 
TTigh  Sheriff,  Wm.  Jarrett,  who  took  us  all 
through  the  institution  and  explained  the  sys- 
tem under  which  they  operate.  Their  method 
of  operation  is  not  particularly  different  from 
that  under  which  many  of  our  state  peniten- 
tiaries are  operated,  so  it  is  not  necessary  to 
touch  upon  that  feature  of  the  work.  The 
prisoners  are  housed  in  a  fire  proof  building 
and  the  interior  showed  that  it  is  well  kept  at 
all  times.  Good  beds,  good  clean  food  and  dining 
rooms  and  plenty  of  l)athing  facilities,  in  the 
most  modern  fashion,  indicates  that  these  pris- 
oners have  all  the  comforts  of  home,  so  far  as 
those  essentials  go. 

It  was  interesting  to  know  that  the  authori- 
ties have  to  provide  three  different  kinds  of 
food  for  their  prisoners.  There  are  ])eople  of 
seventeen  different  nationalities  in  this  peni- 
tentiary and  it  so  happens  that  they  are  so 
widelv  different  in  racial  customs  that  what  is 


170  A  TRIP   TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


food  for  one  is  not  food  for  some  of  the  others. 
The  orientals,  who  contri))nte  a  liberal  part  of 
the  jail  population  have  to  have  rice,  etc.;  the 
Hawaiians  have  to  have  poi  and  fish,  while  the 
whites  and  other  nationalities  not  above  taken 
care  of  require  such  food  as  you  and  I  want. 
The  result  is,  they  set  three  tables  in  this  pris- 
on. 

Maybe,  our  readers  will  be  interested  in 
knowing-  that  the  Filipino  is  the  most  regular 
attendant  in  the  penitentiarv  on  these  islands. 
Out  of  642  all  told  in  the  prison,  209  are  Fili- 
])inos,  almost  a  third  of  the  total  number,  while 
the  population  of  Filipinos  on  the  islands  is 
probably  not  more  than  one-tenth  of  the  total 
population.  The  Hawaiians,  with  perhaps 
about  twice  the  number  on  the  islands  have  but 
133  in  prison,  while  the  Japanese  and  Chinese 
with  still  larger  po])ulations  have  a  less  num- 
ber of  their  ])eo])le  in  prison. 

The  Filii)ino  is  not  much  admired  here.  He 
has  done  nothing  to  win  admiration.  As  a 
worker  he  is  rated  low,  as  a  criminal  he  is 
rated  high.  That  is,  he  is  long  on  "evil  doing." 
I  happened  to  have  a  chance  to  talk  a  few  mo- 
ments with  one  of  the  heads  of  the  Boy  Scout 
movement  here.  He  has  been  here  eight  years 
and  has  put  in  a  great  deal  of  time  assisting  in 
the  athletic  and  other  helpful  work  in  the  prison 
and  he  confirmed  the  common  report  that  the 
Filipinos  are  not  in  general  measuring  up  to 
the  average  standard  of  our  modern  civiliza- 
tion. 

''The  Filipino  is  unnecessarily  brutal,"  my 
informant  explained.  "He  will  hold  up  a  man, 
and  then  kill  him,  even  when  there  is  no  neces- 
sity for  murder,  but  evidently  for  the  sheer  de- 
light that  he  gets  out  of  the  kill." 

They  are  remorseless,  too,  and  unconcerned 


WITH   WORLD'S   I'UESS  CONGRESS  171 

nlx.iit  ('()iis('(|ii('ii('es.  As  an  exainpk'  ol'  their 
bravado  this  Boy  Scout  worlver  told  the  story 
of  the  execution  of  two  of  them  for  murder 
some  months  ago.  The  niglit  before  they  died 
they  danced  jigs  to  music  made  by  fellow  pris- 
oners and  at  the  execution,  my  friend,  who  wit- 
nessed it,  said  that  just  before  they  ])ulled  the 
black  cap  down  over  the  head  of  one  of  the  boys 
he  caught  the  Scout  w^orker's  eye  and  grin- 
ningly  winked  at  him, 

"What  kind  of  stuff  are  they  made  off"  I 
asked.  "Certainly  they  are  not  even  indirect- 
ly connected  with  the  Hawaiians,  are  they?" 

"They  seem  to  have  the  brutal  instincts  of 
the  Turk,  and  I  think  that  perhaps  their  close 
association  with  Mohammedans — many  Fili- 
])inos  are  Mohammedans — may  have  contribut- 
ed elements  to  their  character  that  make  for  a 
careless  regard  for  human  life  and  pro])erty," 
my  friend  explained,  and  added,  "No,  they  are 
not  remotely  like  the  Hawaiians,  excepting  in 
color." 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  many  long  years 
under  Spanish  rule,  suffering  the  l^rutal  treat- 
ment that  Spain  meted  out  to  her  savage  and 
semi-civilized  colonial  holdings  had  the  effect 
of  innoculating  the  Filipinos  wnth  some  of  the 
most  vicious  of  the  Spanish  spirit.  Certain  it 
is  the  Filipino  in  Hawaii  has  done  little  to  win 
the  esteem  of  the  people  of  these  islands.  He 
does  not  recommend  himself  for  self-govern- 
ment and  any  recommendation  for  self-govern- 
ment, iimnediately,  for  the  Filipino  prompts  the 
surmise  here  that  he  who  recommends  such  a 
course  does  not  have  the  good  of  the  Filipino  at 
heart,  and,  where  the  recommendation  comes 
from  outside  the  Philipiune  islands  and  out- 
side of  continental  U.  S.  the  inference  is  that 


172  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

he  who  makes  the  reeommendatioii  has  some- 
thing in  view  for  himself. 

"Any  'lifers'  heref "  a  gentleman  asked  one 
of  the  guards  as  we  stood  looking  out  at  a  bunch 
of  ])risoners  in  the  prison  yard. 

"That  one  right  over  there,  soldier — just 
came  in — here  for  life,"  explained  the  gaiard 
pointing  to  a  young  white  man,  perhaps  twenty 
to  twenty-two  years  of  age.  "Killed  the  auto 
driver  rather  than  pay  the  fare  charges.  Hit 
him  over  the  head  with  a  wrench.  That  fel- 
low's brother,"  the  guard  added,  pointing  to 
a  husky  young  Hawaiian,  who  was  with  us  as 
one  of  the  drivers  of  the  cars  we  had  come  out 
in.  The  brother's  eyes  were  full  of  tears.  Out 
in  the  yard  the  murderer  had  caught  our  cur- 
ious glances  and  was  enjoying  the  situation  im- 
mensely, apparently. 

He  and  a  boy  companion  had  been  in  the 
city  for  the  evening  and  at  about  two  o'clock 
in  the  morning  had  called  a  taxi  to  take  them 
out  to  Scofield  barracks.  They  had  no  money, 
but  tills  young  man  had  tucked  a  wrench  under 
his  coat  and  when  they  came  to  the  end  of  the 
ride  he  calmly  hit  the  driver  a  blow  over  the 
head  with  the  heavy  wrench  and  there  was  no 
longer  any  demand  for  fare.  The  driver  was 
silenced  forever  in  this  life.  The  soldier  boys 
could  go  on  in  to  their  bunks  and  slee|j  in  ])eace. 
The  cliauffeur  would  trouble  them  no  more. 

"IIoAv  long  you  here  for?"  we  asked  a 
Chinaman  wlio  was  trying  to  sell  us  cuff  but- 
tons which  he  had  made  during  his  odd  hours. 

"Me  here  long  time,"  Chinaman  advised, 
''killee  wife." 

We  didn't  buy  any  cuff  buttons.  If  "John" 
is  in  for  a  long,  long  time  he  doesn't  need  the 
money  and  if  he  killed  his  Avife,  she  doesn't 
need  it,  so  we  iiassed  on  to  where  a  couple  of 


WITH   WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  173 

I  loiiolulu  st('U()i;r;i pliers  were  Irving'  to  iii\('iiz,ie 
;i  .\()uii,i>'  Kore.-iu  (lelec;'ate  into  buyiiiii'  tlieni 
i\()i>  necklaces  "just  to  romeiiiber  nou  by." 
Mr.  Koi-eaii  didn't  Tall  tor  it  llioii.n'ii.  Maybe 
lie  di(hrt  care  to  be  remembered.  At  any  rate 
tlie  bold  manners  and  tlie  artifi(*ially  colored 
cheeks  di(bi't  seem  to  im])ress  him  1o  the  extent 
of  loosening  liis  pni'se  strings,  noticeably. 

But,  talking-  about  the  Philippine  islands, 
there  was  a  party  of  congressmen  here  some 
months  ago,  bO  in  number.  They  landed  at 
Hilo  first,  evidently,  for  while  they  were  driv- 
ing out  to  the  volcano  one  of  the  congressmen 
got  sore  at  the  driver  of  theii*  car  because  he 
was  unable  to  tell  them  how  far  it  was  to  Man- 
ila where  he  wanted  to  go  to  spend  the  night. 
He  had  a  "friend  there."  My  informant 
stated  that  the  congressional  ignorance  con- 
cerning the  Hawaiian  islands  was  something 
pitiful.  The  congressman  above  referred  to 
thought  Hawaii  was  a  part  of  the  Philip- 
pine islands  and  that  when  he  was  on  the 
island  he  was  but  a  few  miles  from  Man- 
ila; W'hile  in  fact  he  was  nearer  to  Yokohama 
than  he  was  to  Manila  and  was  about  4000 
miles  of  sea  away  from  where  he  thought  he 
was. 

From  the  penitentiary  we  went  to  the  Kalihi 
Leprosarium,  where  an  entertainment  had  heen 
prepared  for  us  by  the  patients  in  the  institu- 
tion. Both  the  penitentiary  and  leper  hosi^ital 
are  on  the  outskirts  of  Honolulu,  beautifully 
located,  surrounded  by  much  tropical  vegeta- 
tion, with  plenty  of  nature's  other  beauties 
near  at  hand  to  contribute  to  that  demand  of 
the  human  heart. 


174  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXI. 
The  "Leprosarium" 

Honolulu,   October   28,    1921 

Before  I  knew  it  I  had  stretched  the  story 
about  the  Honolulu  penitentiary  out  into  a 
whole  letter  and  it  was  hardly  worth'  the  space 
given  to  it,  but  the  subject  now,  the  Kalihi  Lep- 
rosarium, is  worth  many  stories,  the  only  trou- 
ble is,  it  is  very  difficult,  impossible  in  fact, 
to  do  it  justice.  I  cannot.  In  this  hospital  there 
are  168  patients  who  have  leprosy.  We  were 
met  at  the  gate  by  Dr.  Hasseltine,  the  physician 
in  charge,  and  were  conducted  by  him  and  his 
lady  assistant  through  the  various  buildings 
and  over  the  grounds  that  constitate  the  insti- 
tution. 

The  first  feature  of  the  program  was  a  phys- 
ical culture  exhibition  by  about  one  hundred 
of  the  patients.  It  was  given  out  doors  and 
was  very  like  any  regular  athletic  exhibition 
by  school  children. 

"Are  these  lepers?"  was  the  surprised  in- 
quiry of  many. 

"All  lepers,"  admitted  the  lady  who  was 
leading  us  about  at  that  time. 

"Serious  cases?" 

"Some  of  them;  others  are  about  ready  for 
parole." 

After  this  exhibition  we  were  led  to  a  neat, 
one-story  building  which  we  were  told  was  one 
of  the  boys'  buildings.  We  glanced  in  at  the 
doors  as  we  walked  by.  There  were  pretty  little 
white  beds,  little  center  tables,  chairs,  pictures 
on  the  walls,  flowers,  and  in  addition  to  those 
thinii's  were   numberless   other  more   real    evi- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  175 

dencos  of  hoy  life,  siicli  as  pictures  of  iiioxic 
actresses,  ball  hats,  mitts,  etc.,  etc. 

"Each  hoy  takes  care  of  liis  own  room,  keeps 
it  clean,  makes  the  bed,  sweei)s  and  scrubs,  etc., 
etc.,"  explained  onr  prond  lady  i>ni(k',  wlio  was 
a  fine  looking,  intelligent  Hawaiian  woman. 

Next  we  came  to  the  girls'  (juarters.  If 
there  w^as  any  difference  in  neatness  and  clean- 
liness it  w^as  in  favor  of  the  girls,  but  all  de- 
partments were  in  "apple  pie"  order.  On  the 
veranda  of  this  dormitory  there  were  a  num- 
l)er  of  little  girls,  smiling,  cnrions,  willing  to 
speak  to  everybody  with  their  welcoming 
"Aloha." 

We  walked  down  by  the  row^  of  little  girls 
and  spoke  to  them,  looking  rather  closely  into 
their  faces  to  see  if  we  could  see  anything  that 
suggested  disease,  and  we  could,  in  some  in- 
stances, in  others  we  could  not.  That  is  tlie 
nature  of  the  disease,  the  doctor  explained.  It 
takes  the  microscope  to  detect  it  sometimes, 
but  these  all  have  it  in  some  form,  or  other,  but 
most  of  them  we  hope  to  cure. 

We  came  next  to  a  building  npon  the  ver- 
anda of  which  some  eight  or  ten  women  w^ere 
standing.  Here  we  w^ere  in  the  presence  of  real 
leprosy.  One  ^voman  was  sightless,  her  eyes 
sticking  out  as  reddish  balls,  her  nose  was  sunk- 
en in  until  there  w^as  only  the  outline  of  a  nose 
on  her  face,  her  features  were  hideousl}^  dis- 
figured. 

"This  case  had  progressed  several  years  be- 
fore we  found  it,"  the  doctor  explained.  "She 
was  found  recently  back  in  the  mountains." 

And,  her  daughter  was  there,  too,  and  her 
grandmother,  all  victims  of  the  disease  who 
had  been  kept  hidden  from  the  authorities.  The 
little  girl  might  be  saved;  the  mother  helped; 
the  grandmother  would  have  to  go  to  Molokai 


176  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

and  to  tlint  colony  which  cares  for  the  liopeless- 
ly  afflicted.  On  most  of  these  ])atients  leprosj^ 
had  left  conspicuous  marks;  disfigured  faces, 
sightless  eves,  twisted  fingers  and  deformed 
feet. 

Next  we  came  to  another  dormitory  where 
there  were  some  twenty  of  the  patients,  all  in 
gay  regalia,  carrying  flags  and  flowers  and 
wearing  wreatlis  over  their  brows  and  shoul- 
ders. Most  of  them  were  smiling  and  a])parent- 
ly  happy  and  we  learned  that  they  were  ready 
and  anxious  to  begin  giving  the  program  which 
they  had  been  practicing  a  number  of  days  in 
anticipation  of  our  visit. 

The  guests  all  went  out  to  a  little  grand- 
stand that  was  used  for  the  purpose  of  seating 
visitors  on  such  occasions  and  the  orchestra 
and  choir,  composed  of  j)atients,  sang  a  beauti- 
ful number.  In  the  meantime  those  who  were 
to  stage  the  exhibition  were  marching  down 
from  the  dormitory  and  ])lacing  themselves  in 
a  group  that  was  distinctly  artistic  and  pretty. 

At  the  head  of  the  procession  was  an  old 
lady  carrying  the  Bible  and  on  either  hand  and 
behind  were  others,  men,  women,  boys,  girls 
and  three  or  four  little  children  bearing  flowers 
and  many  other  decorations  and  carrying  flags 
of  many  nations  with  Old  Glory  in  the  fore- 
front. The  scene  reminded  one,  in  some  of  its 
features,  of  a  summer  evening  festival  l)ack  in 
Iowa. 

Peering  deeply  enough  under  the  outside 
though  one  could  see  that  amidst  all  that  show 
of  floral  and  beribboned  glory  there  were  some 
human  beings  who  were  in  distress.  Here  was 
a  man  with  no  nose,  with  ])ut  one  eye,  a  deeply 
sunken  face,  great  wrinkles  in  his  forehead,  im- 
perfect feet.     The  progress  of  the  disease  had 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  177 

been  stayed  willi  liiiii,  hut  no  troatintmt  could 
give  back  to  him  the  things  tliat  were  gone  be- 
fore the  treatment  came.  Jlere,  too,  was  a  girl 
who  apparently  had  no  fingers;  and  another 
woman's  face  showed  great  blotches,  and 
wrinkles,  and  a  sunken  nose.  There  were  others 
with  minor  disfigurations.  There  was  misery 
here,  but  hope,  too,  and  a  spirit  of  n.ake  the  best 
of  it. 

Suddenly  the  group  of  lepers  started  to  sing. 
It  was  "I^raise  God  From  Whom  All  Blessings 
Flow."  The  singing  was  as  sweet  as  any  choir 
music;  there  were  many  good  voices  there,  and 
the  s])irit  of  the  song  touched  deeply,  for  I 
learned  afterward  that  many  others  joined  this 
writer  in  the  operation  of  brushing  away  a  tear 
or  two  as  an  accompaniment  to  the  music.  And 
after  that,  they  repeated  the  Lord's  prayer,  and 
then  an  old  woman  prayed  that  the  world  might 
be  freed  from  the  scourge  of  leprosy  and  that 
the  sufferers  here  might  be  "washed  in  the 
blood  of  the  Lamb,"  and  be  made  clean — 
"whiter  than  snow." 

After  the  singing  and  the  prayer  there  step- 
ped into  the  foreground  a  nicely  formed, 
young  white  woman,  some  eighteen  years  of 
age,  I  should  say,  light  colored  hair,  a  typical 
blonde,  graceful  in  her  movements,  daintily  at- 
tired in  white  with  low  necked  gown.  She 
made  a  short,  elegantly  prepared  address  of 
welcome  and  then  just  before  she  retired  she 
announced  the  next  number  on  the  program. 

This  girl  was  a  Caucasian  of  good  birth,  a 
native  of  Hawaii,  and  there  was  nothing  about 
her  appearance  to  indicate  that  she  was  a  leper 
or  that  she  was  diseased  excepting  a  slight  evi- 
dence of  reddish  blotches  under  her  eyes  and 
across  the  u])per  part  of  her  cheeks.  She  look- 
ed in  her  face  much  as  does  anv  white  girl  who 


178  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

has  exercised  rather  "strenuously  on  a  hot  day 
and  tlien  pantingly"  stopped  to  rest.  This  girl 
is  responding  to  treatment  nicely,  and  will 
probably  be  cured.  Her  mother  is  also  in  the 
hospital,  a  more  advanced  case,  and  she  asked 
to  be  excused  from  appearing  in  public.  Her 
daughter  though,  added  a  splendid  touch  of 
grace  and  dignity  to  the  exhibition. 

The  first  numlDer  on  the  program  was  a  song 
by  a  young  man,  a  Hawaiian,  a  splendid  speci- 
men of  physical  manhood,  with  fine,  even  feat- 
ures, and  I  am  pleased  to  say  that  we  w^ere  ad- 
vised by  the  doctor  that  he  would  be  paroled 
as  cured  at  once.  He  had  escaped  disfigura- 
tion. In  his  song  he  was  accompanied  on  the 
guitar  l)y  anotlier  young  man,  more  advanced 
in  the  disease,  but  not  showing  it,  while,  a 
toothless  woman,  with  gnarled  fingers  and  a 
slightly  sunken  face  and  crippled  feet,  and  an- 
other showing  leper  marks  not  so  plainly,  but 
unmistakably,  joined  in  the  chorus  of  the  young 
man's  song. 

A  grou)i  of  garlanded  girls  sang  a  tribute 
to  the  Hawaiian"  Princess  Kalanianole  who  with 
a  small  ])arty  was  in  the  audience.  The  calling 
of  the  islands  in  song  brought  to  the  fore  little 
boys  and  girls,  eight  in  number,  each  decorated 
with  a  lei  and  carrying  other  flowers  and  some 
other  things  to  represent  each  of  the  inhabited 
islands  of  the  Hawaiian  group.  This  was  a 
pretty  little  ])art  of  the  program  and  gave  the 
smaller  boys  and  girls  an  opportunity  to  figure 
in  a  pleasantly  cons])icuous  way  in  the  pro- 
gram. There  followed  a  pageant  cf  the  whole 
group  of  inmates  to  exjn^ess  in  that  way  their 
appreciation  of  and  their  love  for  the  United 
States  Health  Service  which  has  done  so  much 
to  alleviate  the  suffering  of  the  ]iatients  of  this 
institution. 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  179 


The  ]);itioiits  sang  a  song  in  honor  of  a  i'or- 
nuT  olTicial  of  the  liosi)ital  niidci'  wliosp  dii-ec- 
lion  tlie  first  siu'cessful  use  of  the  present  meth- 
ods of  treating  leprosy  was  made.  Ihiring  tliis 
song  there  came  upon  the  scene  a  Jittle  ])roces- 
sion  of  eh'ven  people,  representing  eleven  dif- 
ferent nationalities,  each  carrying  luggage  and 
dressed  to  represent  the  way  they  appeared 
\vhen  they  came  to  the  hos]utal  for  treatment. 
These  eleven  people  made  a  particularly  strik- 
ing api)earance  because  of  the  individual  dif- 
ferences in  appearance.  There  were  Chinese, 
Japanese,  Portuguese,  Porto  Rican,  Chilian, 
Hawaiian,  Negro,  Filipino,  etc.,  etc.  One  was 
a  big,  stalwart  white  young  man  Avliose  nation- 
ality I  did  not  learn;  he  looked  like  a  Russian. 
The  Portuguese  was  a  girl  of  about  eighteen 
years,  a  very  pretty  girl,  showing  no  external 
signs  of  the  disease  so  far  as  we  could  see  and 
she  was  dressed  in  street  attire,  wearing  a 
dainty  blue  suit,  sailor  hat,  daintily  fitting  mod- 
ern shoes  and  looked  very  like  she  was  just  out 
for  an  afternoon  stroll  in  the  park. 

The  one  part  of  the  program,  though,  which 
illustrated  the  effects  of  leprosy  upon  human 
beings  most  graphically  was  that  in  which  Dr. 
Hasseltine  brought  forward  different  lepers  and 
showed  to  the  audience  just  what  this  dread 
disease  does  when  once  it  gets  a  hold  on  peo- 
]3le.  He  i)resented  first  a  man,  who  was  appar- 
ently sightless;  his  nose  had  flattened  into  his 
face;  there  were  great  furrows  across  his  brow 
and  extending  back  over  his  forehead;  his  feat- 
ures were  frightfully  distorted  in  every  partic- 
ular. He  did  not  look  like  a  human  being,  and 
yet,  the  treatment  used  at  Honolulu  is  staying 
the  progress  of  leprosy  in  this  case.  The  doc- 
tor showed  two  or  three  women  whose  hands 
were  twisted,  faces  disfigured,  joints  refusing 


ISO  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

to  function,  eyes  affected,  bones  in  nose  de- 
cayed, etc.,  etc.  They  were  not  a  pretty  spec- 
tacle. 

He  presented  two  young  Hawaiian  women, 
girls  of  perhaps  twenty  years  of  age.  They 
showed  no  signs  of  leprosy  externally  after  a 
few  weeks  of  treatment.  They  were  apparently 
as  clean  and  as  perfect  as  any  one,  hnt  in  re- 
sponse to  the  bacteriological  test  they  still 
showed  that  they  have  the  disease.  Otherwise 
they  are  jnst  as  whole  as  anyone  else,  the  doc- 
tor explained.  There  came  forward  a  little  girl 
of  abont  eight  years.  "This,"  stated  the  doc- 
tor, "is  onr  prize  case.  After  a  few  treatments 
she  refnsed  to  show  any  fnrther  ^igns  of  le])- 
rosy  at  all.  All  tests  failed.  We  conld  hardly 
believe  it,  bnt  it's  trne.  She  will  be  paroled 
soon,  now."  Several  other  cases  in  varions 
stages  of  development  were  shown. 

Next  there  was  a  sort  of  a  tablean  pre- 
sented, in  which  a  nnrse  advanced  to  Dr.  Has- 
seltine  carrying  a  tray  npon  which  were  a  nnm- 
ber  of  vials.  From  this  tray  the  doctor  lifted 
in  turn  and  held  n])  before  the  andience  the  lit- 
tle vials  that  contained  the  chanlmoogra  oil  in 
the  different  forms  throngh  which  it  ]iasses  in 
its  laboratorical  develo])ments  into  the  specific 
form  in  which  it  is  now  nsed  in  treating  lep- 
rosy. 

In  a  former  letter  I  think  I  ex])lained  that 
this  specific  as  now  nsed  has  lately  been 
brought  to  its  present  state  of  useful  effective- 
ness through  the  experiments  of  Dr.  A.  L.  Dean, 
President  of  the  Hawaiian  I'niversity.  The  oil 
in  its  newly  developed  form  is  injected  into 
the  muscles  of  the  patient  and  its  curative  ef- 
fects are  marvelous.  Leprosy  has  for  a  long 
time  baffled  ex]:)erimenters  in  many  of  their  ef- 
forts to  understand  it.     Thev  think  thev  have 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  ISl 

isolated  ilic  bacteria,  l»iit  llicre  is  no  way  of 
knowing-  positively,  as  this  wiiter  understands 
it,  since  the  human  being  is  the  onl}^  animal  that 
responds  to  the  infection.  Tliey  iiave  discov- 
ered no  other  aninud  upou  which  to  exi)eriment 
and,  tlierefore,  such  experiments  as  are'  made 
must  he  nuule  \\\)(m  human  beings  who  offer 
themselves  voluntarily  for  that  purpose.  In 
the  (Kalihi  institution  Mrs.  Rosalie  Blaisdell,  a 
patient  of  Hawaiian  nationality  has  offered  her- 
self as  the  medium  for  further  experimentation 
looking  toward  still  greater  developments  in 
tlie  treatment  of  leprosy. 

The  lepers  at  this  hospital  have  named  their 
retreat  "Mount  Happy."  A  rather  odd  name 
for  such  a  place,  but  it  is  an  amazingly  pretty 
])lace  with  a  most  delightful  atmosphere  about 
it,  everything  considered.  In  this  institution 
there  are  few  hopeless  cases.  The  result  is,  of 
<'ourse,  that  all  are  looking  forward  to  some- 
thing better.  There  is  a  rainbow  in  the  sky 
always  for  most  of  them.  It  costs  $250,000.00 
a  year  to  maintain  Mount  Happy.  It  enter- 
tains peo})le  of  all  nationalities  as  the  above  in- 
dicates. Time  was  when  it  Avas  a  difficult 
thing  to  find  lepers  and  to  get  them  into  the 
hosjiital.  Now  they  come  willingly.  It  is  rare- 
ly necessary  to  send  officers  for  them  now. 
They  know  and  understand  that  the  institution 
will  help  them;  will  probably  save  their  lives. 
The  incubation  period  of  leprosy  is  long, 
though.  It  may  be  in  the  system  of  a  ])erson 
for  eight  or  ten  years  before  showing  itself.  So, 
the  leper  problem  is  by  no  means  solved  3^et. 
For  years  yet  there  will  be  new  crops  of  lepers 
coming  on.  People  have  it  now,  all  unaware  of 
the  fact.  Some  day  it  will  develop.  Then,  if 
the  case  is  promptly  and  properly  diagnosed, 
the  victim  can  be  taken  at  once  to  a  Leiirosar- 


182  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

ium  and  treated  witli  a  splendid  chance  to  be 
cnred. 

The  doctors,  though,  don't  like  to  say  yet 
that  they  cure  leprosy.  They  discharge  their 
patients  on  a  i)arole,  with  the  statement  that 
the  disease  has  been  "arrested."  In  1921  nine- 
ty-four |)atients  have  been  discharged  from  this 
hosi)ital  and  only  four  recalled  from  all  pre- 
viously discharged.  In  1919  only  a  few  w^ere 
recalled  for  further  treatment.  Many  are  ap- 
parently cured,  showing  no  signs  of  the  dis- 
ease after  several  years  of  release.  In  1920 
none  were  recalled.  The  disease  is  infectious, 
but  not  violently  so.  The  doctors  and  nurses 
handle  the  patients  without  fear,  although  the 
infection  is  probably  from  personal  contact. 
Cleanliness  is  a  safeguard  and  an  essential  one. 

An  interesting  thing  about  the  treatment 
used  now  to  cure  the  lei)ers!  is  that  the  good  ef- 
fects of  the  oil  have  long  been  known,  and  it  ha? 
been  used  for  several  years,  but  the  oil  in  its 
original  form  is  too  strong  for  general  prac- 
tical use.  The  reaction  from  its  use  was  so  se- 
vere that  in  many  cases  the  reaction  itself  was 
worse  than  the  disease  treated.  It  then  became 
the  studv  of  investigators  to  see  if  the  dross 
of  the  oil  could  be  eliminated  from  it  and  the 
healing  qualities  retained.  That  has  been  ac- 
comi^lished. 

What  medical  science  has  done  in  the  hand- 
ling of  leprosy  is  one  of  the  greatest  of  modern 
benefactions.  For  many  centuries  leprosy  has 
been  the  most  dreaded  plague  in  many  parts 
of  the  world.  It  was  looked  upon  as  absolutely 
fatal.  The  leper  was  an  unclean  thing,  doomed 
to  death  and  destruction.  There  was  no  hope. 
Not  so  now.  The  treatment  of  the  disease  has 
been  perfected  to  the  ]ioint  where  a  leper  in 
the  earlier  stages  of  the  disease  has  a  better 


WITH    VVOULUS    I'llESS   CONURESS  IS 3 

cliaiu'c  I'oi'  lii'c  than  do  tliosc^  arnicted  witli  sev- 
eral other  liiuiiaii  contagions,  the  mastery  of 
which  has  not  yet  been  accomplished. 

Those  of  ns  wlio  visited  this  Leprosarium 
feel  that  we  have  had  a  rare  opportunity  to 
witness  one  of  the  most  advanced  pieces  of 
medical  accomplishment  that  the  world  has 
ever  witnessed,  but  we  witnessed  more  than 
that.  We  see  again,  in  another  form,  another 
illustration  of  what  our  country  has  done  for 
the  helpless  in  the  world.  Leprosy  has  always 
been  a  devastating  disease  among  the  Hawai- 
ians.  "My  people  suffer  most  from  it,"  our 
lady  friend  at  the  hospital  informed  us.  Here 
in  this  institution  Hawaiians,  Chinese,  Japan-. 
ese,  Filipinos  and  all  the  afflicted  of  whatever 
color  or  race  are  cared  for  at  the  expense  of 
the  state.  No  one  is  allowed  to  suffer  because 
of  poverty.  Here  the  people  of  all  nationalities 
find  a  friend  indeed.  Uncle  Sam  takes  them 
in  his  arms  and  cares  for  them.  Lepers  in  this 
institution  enjoy  such  comforts  as  they  had 
never  in  the  moments  of  their  most  extravagant 
])rimitive  imaginations  dreamed  of  having.  I 
doubt  if  they  have  perceptions  keen  enough  to 
appreciate  in  full  what  they  receive.  We  can 
only  hope  that  all  these  beneficient  efforts  will 
not  be  in  vain. 


184  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXII. 
Our  Hawaiian  Army 

Honolulu,   October   28,    1921 

"Military  Day"  and  "Naval  Day"  were 
great  days  for  the  World's  Press  Congress  del- 
egates. Special  programs  liad  been  prepared 
at  Camp  Seofield  and  at  Pearl  Harbor.  They 
were  wonderful  programs,  too.  To  novices  in 
the  art  of  war  the  exhibitions  were  marvelous. 
There  were  in  our  i)arty  those  to  whom  the 
scenes  of  the  demonstration  were  not  so  new, 
for  they  had  been  in  real  war;  had  seen  service 
on  the  European  battle  fronts.  Most  of  the 
party  though  were  unaccustomed  to  military 
doings  on  as  large  a  scale  as  we  were  privileged 
to  witness  while  in  Hawaii. 

Camp  Seofield  covers  several  thousand 
acres.  It  is  a  permanent  camp,  and  there  are 
about  ten  thousand  soldiers  stationed  there  now. 
All  modern  war  equipment  is  in  store  there  and 
the  army  is  supported  by  fortifications  and 
naval  forces  Avhich  make  the  people  of  Hawaii 
feel  that  they  are  well  taken  care  of.  The  for- 
tifications of  Diamond  head,  covering  the  ap- 
proach to  Honolulu  harbor  and  the  opposite 
side  of  the  island  also  are  said  to  l)e  second  to 
Gibraltar  in  their  cai)acity  for  trouble  making 
for  any  contem])lated  invader. 

We  went  out  to  Seofield  barracks  Saturday, 
October  22nd.  Automobiles  called  for  us  at  our 
hotels  and  we  were  taken  directly  to  the  bar- 
racks, some  six  miles  out  of  the  city.  As  each 
car  entered  the  cam])  domains  an  officer  step- 
ped on  the  rnnning  board  and  directed  the  line 
of  travel,  and  stayed  with  the  car  and  its  oc- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  185 

cni)aiits  until  tlic  final  official  ceremonies  of 
the  day  were  over.  'I'liei-e  ai'e  luindrecLs  of  lar^'e 
and  small  permanent  l)uildini;s  here  to  house 
the  men  and  officers  and  in  addition  to  that 
many  large  structures  essential  to  the  re(iuire- 
ments  of  such  a  great  camp. 

One  of  the  first  things  we  saw^  as  we  ap- 
proached the  camp  from  around  the  hills  was 
the  great  observation  balloon  hanging  over  the 
camp,  and  later  towed  al)0ut  by  a  big  army 
truck,  while  the  balloon  maintained  its  altitude 
of  some  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  our  heads. 
We  had  hardly  anticipated  such  a  pretentious 
show  as  we  Avere  to'  see.  After  being  driven 
all  over  the  spacious  camp  grounds  we  were 
taken  to  a  little  grandstand  where  seats  had 
been  reserved  for  our  party  and  such  an  exten- 
sive military  program  was  given  as  w^e  w^ould 
never  see  again  outside  of  w^ar,  we  were  told  by 
our  guide,  a  young  lieutenant. 

The  guests  of  honor,  occupying  the  review- 
ing stand  w^ere:  the  Governor  of  the  Territory, 
Wallace  R.  Farrington;  the  Commander  Gen- 
eral of  the  Department  Major  General 
Charles  P.  Summerall;  The  Commandant 
14th  Naval  District,  Rear  Admiral  Edw^nrd 
Sim])son,  United  States  Navy;  President  Walter 
Williams  of  the  World  Press  Congress.  Even 
if  it  is  a  little  long  I  am  going  to  publish  the 
full  list  of  program  events  in  order  that  our 
readers  may  have  some  idea  of  the  variety  of 
war  activities  which  are  cultivated  in  this  great 
camp.  Brigadier  General  Joseph  E.  Kulin,  U. 
S.  A.,  was  in  command  and  the  first  feature  of 
the  program  was  the  salute  to  his  honor,  the 
Governor,  after  which  came  the  review  of  the 
Hawaiian  Division  and  attached  units  of  the 
Hawaiian   C.  A.  District  and  the  Air  Service. 


186  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

The  Divisions  and  attached  nuits  passed  in  re- 
view in  the  following  order: 

Commanding  General. 

Division  Headqnarters. 

21st  Brigade:  27th  Infty.,  35tli  Infty.,  44th 
Inftv.,  3rd  Engineers;  11th  Signal  Corps. 

ilth  Fiekf  Artillerv  Brigade:  13th  Field 
Artillery,  8th  Field  Artillery,  11th  Field  Artil- 
lery, Ilth  Ammnnition  Train. 

Division  Trains:  Ilth  Ordinance  Company, 
1st  Batterv  Hawaiian  Anti-Aircraft  Regiment, 
12th  Search  Lights,  1st  Battery  55th  Artillery 
G.  P.  F.,  3rd  Balloon  Companv,  59th  Ambnlance 
Co. 

Mnsic  by  massed  bands  250  pieces,  com- 
posed of  the  27th,  35th  and  44th  Infantrv  and 
the  Ilth  and  13th  Artillery  and  the  3rd  Engin- 
eers. 

Onr  readers  will  gather  from  the  reading  of 
the  above  that  to  most  of  the  members  of  this 
jjress  party  this  review  parade  was  a  stupen- 
dous show.  Ten  thousand  soldiers  were  in- 
volved and  before  us  passed  soldiers  and  sol- 
diers and  soldiers  in  such  enormous  quantities 
as  made  us  all  look  on  in  amazement,  and  yet  as 
our  friendly  lieutenant  explained  this  was  but 
a  baby  show  to  what  the  full  manned  army  puts 
on  when  war  is  the  order  of  the  day. 

Over  us  airplanes  buzzed  and  from  the  cap- 
tive balloon  two  soldier  boys  jumped  and 
gracefully  sank  to  the  ground,  a  half  mile  away 
from  us,  the  violent  wind  dragging  one  of  the 
boys  over  the  ground  rather  brutally  before  he 
could  disentangle  himself  from  his  parachute. 
The  bloody  marks  of  his  bruises  showed  rather 
plainly  a  few  moments  later  when  he  and  his 
companion  were  brought  up  and  presented  to 
the  reviewing  party. 

Next  came  the  special  features  of  the  pro- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  187 

gram  dcmoiistratiiig  the  activities  of  the  differ- 
ent d(^i)arti]ieiits  of  the  service  here  ]-e])resented. 
First  was  air  service  illustrating  aerial  cond)at, 
l)oiid)ing  raid,  radio  coninmnications,  attack 
i-aid,  followed  by  the  passing  in  view  of  the  5tli 
Grou])  air  service.  As  a  i)art  of  this  show,  too, 
two  fast  planes  engaged  in  mock  l)attle,  wire- 
less operators  commnnicated  from  i)lane  com- 
manding officers  headquarters,  photograi)her 
took  i)ictures  of  the  grounds  and  party  from  air- 
l)lane  and  distributed  proofs  in  less  than  an 
hour,  airplanes  raided  position  and  destroyed 
ground  targets,  and  finally  a  fleet  of  planes 
passed  in  review  before  the  stand,  first  in  V 
sha]ied  formation  and  later  in  single  file  and 
flying  low  to  salute. 

Next  came  the  infantry  in  demonstration  of 
disciplinary  drills,  physical  training  with  band 
music,  massed  boxing,  recreational  games.  This 
was  all  very  interesting,  the  exhibition  reveal- 
ing without  further  elaboration  the  reasons  why 
soldier  boys  are  in  such  fine  physical  trim  while 
on  active  duty.  They  exercise,  and  they  exer- 
cise for  fair. 

Following  came  the  Infantry  Combat;  an  in- 
fantry battalion  demonstrating  automatic  rifles, 
machine  guns,  37  milimeter  guns  in  attack  sup- 
ported by  light  and  heavy  artillery.  Here  was 
noise  a  plenty  with  the  distant  targets  suffer- 
ing terribly  from  the  gun  fire  directed  their 
way  and  hitting  with  a  painful  regularity. 

Next  came  Lighter  Than  Air  Service,  dem- 
onstrating the  manii)ulation  and  operation  of 
balloons  and  balloon  observation  for  artillery 
practice. 

And  to  wind  it  all  up  they  blew  the  whole 
top  off  with  demonstration  of  Anti-Aircraft 
firing.  Light  and  Heavy  Artillery  firing,  and  a 
light  and  heavy  artillery  barrage.    Some  juni])- 


188  A  TRIP  TO   THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

ed  from  their  seats  in  the  grand  stand  and 
rnshed  for  the  rear,  so  piercino-  did  the  noise 
become  at  times.  Many  of  us  had  heeded  the 
advice  of  an  officer  who  told  ns  to  keep  our 
mouths  open  so  the  sound  could  hit  both  sides 
of  the  eai'  drum  and  maybe  that  helped  a  little. 

Anyway,  it  was  a  big  show,  and  yet  so  small 
compared  to  what  so  many  of  our  boys  in  the 
U.  S.  A.  saw  and  experienced  at  a  time  when  it 
all  meant  something  sterner  than  did  this  ex- 
hibition! We  turned  away  from  these  scenes 
with  a  better  understanding  of  the  science  of 
war,  realizing  that  the  great  expense  that  at- 
tends the  maintenance  of  armies  is  an  unavoid- 
able expense,  and  few  of  us,  after  spending  a 
few  weeks  in  the  Hawaiian  islands,  only  ten  per 
cent  American,  are  ready  to  assert  that  we  do 
not  need  quite  a  ready  army  and  navy  yet  a 
wliile  in  the  middle  Pacific. 

The  practice  with  the  big  guns  was  noisily 
spectacular.  They  were  across  the  field  from 
us  so  far  that  the  puff  of  smoke  when  the  gun 
was  fired  showed  some  few  seconds,  it  seemed, 
before  we  heard  the  report,  and  then,  away  over 
in  the  mountains,  after  such  a  "long  while," 
we  would  see  the  dirt  fly,  a  great  cloud  of  smoke 
arise,  and  then  after  waiting  another  "real  long 
while"  we  would  hear  the  dull  rumble  of  the 
echoing  explosion.  The  anti-aircraft  guns  were 
stationed  near  us  and  when  they  broke  loose  to 
repel  the  oncoming  enemy  planes  our  ears  split 
wide  open. 

The  scene  of  the  review,  too,  was  especially 
impressive.  Company  after  company  passed  by 
in  such  splendid  marching  form  and  behind 
came  the  field  artillery,  the  guns  and  other 
munitions  drawn  by  bright,  clean  caterpillar 
trucks  moving  in  such  amazing  uniformity  of 
action  as  was  surprising  to  all.     They  were  al- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  189 

most  liiimaii  in  tlicir  i)i'ocisi()ii  of  mai-cliiiig  de- 
])ortTiieiit. 

It  was  a  woiulerriil  show,  fully  appreciated 
by  the  press  party  and  tlie  graudeiir  of  tlie  im- 
pressive scenes  of  tlie  day  will  never  be  for- 
gotten by  those  who  saw  them.  The  soldier 
]3oys,  too,  seemed  to  enjoy  it.  All  entered  into 
the  spirit  of  the  day  with  a  thrilling-  enthus- 
iasm. Nothing  was  left  undone  to  give  to  the 
visitors  of  the  day  as  big  a  peace  time  thrill 
as  can  be  evolved  from  a  great  army  camp.  We 
got  it. 


190  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXIII. 
A  Beautiful  Temple 

Honolulu,   October   28,    1921 

The  big  military  exhibition  closed  at  Sco- 
field  Barracks  at  about  noon  and  our  party 
then  started  on  a  drive  around  the  island.  The 
whole  island  cannot  be  encircled  hj  automo])ile 
but  something  over  a  hundred  miles  can  be 
made  while  the  entire  distance  around  the  is- 
land by  automobile  road  would  probably  be 
about  one  hundred  forty  miles.  The  southeast 
])oint  of  the  island  is  too  rough  for  circumnavi- 
gation by  motor  vehicle. 

Leaving  the  barracks  our  road  led  out  thru 
pineapple  fields,  some  of  the  finest  and  most 
extensive  of  the  islands  being  in  that  vicinity. 
There  are  in  all  in  cultivation  07i  the  islands 
about  50,000  acres  in  pineapples.  There  are 
15  canneries,  8  on  the  island  of  Oahu.  The  pine- 
apple matures  on  the  plant  in  about  18  to  20 
months.  The  usual  process  of  planting  is  by 
using  the  little  knob  at  the  top  of  the  ripened 
frnit  or  by  ])lanting  one  of  the  many  suckers 
that  grow  at  the  side  of  the  i)lant.  The  pine- 
a]}i)le  seeds  like  many  other  seeds  always  run 
wild  when  planted.  Each  seed  produces  its 
own  variety  while  the  plants  remain  true  to 
IJarental  form. 

The  ripe  fruit  is  delicious  beyond  descri]> 
tion.  It  fairly  "melts  in  your  mouth"  as  sis- 
ter says.  That  simph^  means  that  we  do  not 
get  fruit  that  is  fully  ripened  at  harvest  time 
in  the  states.  It  will  not  ship  in  that  condition; 
has  to  be  plucked  green  and  shipped  that  way. 
Tlie  pineap])le  stalks,  or  ])lants,  grow  three  to 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  191 


four  f('(4  lii.u'li.  They  are  squatty.  'I'lie  loaves 
are  spears,  (laj;\i>ei--like,  lon,i>-,  narrow,  i^reen, 
sliarp-ed^-ed  ))la(les.  Tlie  fruit  i^rows  in  the 
center  of  the  ])lant  and  a  pineai)i)le  crop  is  an 
interesting-  apjjearing  crop. 

Lower  down  in  the  trip  along  tlie  island  we 
w^ent  throngli  an  immense  cane  field  and  then 
finally  wonnd  np  at  the  little  town  of  Waialua 
on  the  northwest  corner  of  the  island  where 
there  was  a  beautiful  beach  and  a  hotel,  and 
there  we  had  our  mid-day  meal. 

From  Waialua  after  our  luncli  we  started 
up  the  windward  side  of  the  island  along  a 
beach  so  i)retty  that  there  is  no  use  trying  to 
say  much  about  it.  In  general  this  side  of  the 
island  is  a  scenic  side.  There  are  a  few  culti- 
vated spots  and  some  points  connected  with  the 
other  side  of  the  island  that  make  interchange 
of  activities  possible.  There  were  some  pine- 
apple ranches  stretching  up  along  the  mountain 
sides  and  a  little  cane,  but  very  little  com])ared 
to  what  there  is  in  the  other  side.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  the  backbone  of  all  these  is- 
lands is  a  range  of  volcanic  mountains  that  ex- 
tend through  all  of  them  from  northwest  to 
southeast  and  the  left  hand  side  as  we  go  south- 
east is  the  windward  side.  Against  the  face  of 
the  mountains  leaning  to  the  windward  side  the 
rains  and  the  winds  have  beaten  for  centuries, 
leaving  the  w.dls  precipitous  and  full  of  deep 
gullies  over  which  hundreds  of  little  streams 
make  beautiful  waterfalls  in  the  rainy  season. 

This,  too,  is  the  rainy  side  of  the  mountains. 
It  is  a  peculiar  tiling,  but  it  is  claimed  that  on 
the  island  of  Kauai,  just  north  of  Oahu  there 
are  two  points  barely  two  miles  apart  at  one  of 
which  there  is  the  greatest  rainfall  known  in 
any  part  of  the  world,  while  at  the  other  the 
rainfall   is  as  small  as  at  anv  other  recorded 


19  2  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

point  in  the  world.  The  reason  is  simple  enough. 
The  warm  winds  coming  in  from  the  sea,  sweep 
up  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains  striking 
the  cooler  atmosphere  and  immediately  there 
is  dampness.  It  is  a  dampness  that  goes  no 
farther,  though.  It  doesn't  get  over  the  mount- 
ain to  tliat  dry  point  two  miles  away,  and  the 
result  is  that  they  capture  the  water  on  the 
wet  side  of  the  mountain  where  there  is  little 
tillahle  soil  and  carry  it  by  tunnel  through  to 
the  other  side  of  the  mountains  where  there  is 
no  rain  but  lots  of  soil  that  needs  only  the  water 


L~-            '*'  'f'-.   -^ 

■"*  :*<f'\  '■■■ 

^    -,       ^.    ■■^%>.^"^Xfy 

^^m 

Sy^i 

Some  shady  nook,  with  a  bunch  of  "Banyan  tree"   sup- 
plying   the    shade.      Each    tree    is    a    grove   all    in    itself. 

ai)plied   in   iri-igation   to   make   it   wonderfully 
fruitful. 

But,  if  our  scenic  side  of  the  mountain 
isn't  so  very  fruitful  in  the  matter  of  vegetable 
growths  it  is  certainly  abundantly  supplied  with 
beautiful  scenery.  For  some  forty  miles  our 
road  ran  along  with  the  tall  mountains  at  the 
right,  and  a  beautiful  beach  at  the  left,  the 
ocean  sweeping  in  over  the  lava  points  and  the 
coral  reefs  in  the  most  beautiful  surfs  imagin- 
able. All  along  the  coast  we  would  see  points 
where  the   spi'ay  leaped   high,   and   the  ocean 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  193 

san.^"  lU'vci'  ('(';isin<;'ly.  Aiiollici-  of  lliosc  drcnm 
pictiii'es  ill  w  liicli  I;iii,n'n<-i,i;('  prochiiiiis  its  use- 
lessiioss. 

Such  lial)ilatioiLs  as  we  saw  on  tliis  side  of 
tlic  island  were  very  crude  in  eonstruetion,  gen- 
erally excepting  that  at  a  few  points  there  was 
a  wider  spread  of  low  land  with  considerable 
tillable  soil  and  better  ini])i-()venients.  At  one  or 
two  i)oints,  too,  the  nionntain  range  backed  over 
so  far  toward  the  other  side  of  tlie  island  as  to 
permit  of  rather  extensive  settlements  on  the 
windward  side.  The  good  road  was  one  of  the 
finest  artificial  things  that  we  came  in  con- 
tact with  in  many  miles. 

We  finally  came  to  a  little  town  by  the  name 
of  Leai.  It  Avas  not  nnnsnal  in  ai)pearance.  The 
l)nildings  were  sqnatty  and  the  ^airroundings 
rather  commonplace  in  all  their  features.  The 
leader  of  our  automobile  caravan  turned  up 
one  of  the  streets  of  the  little  village  and  we  fol- 
lowed. We  rolled  along  through  narrow  streets 
by  the  side  of  little  homes,  observing  that  there 
was  rather  more  activity  here  than  we  had  seen 
since  we  left  Waialua.  Suddenly  we  turned 
another  corner  and  came  face  to  face  with  one 
of  the  greatest  surprises  of  our  whole  exper- 
ience in  the  Hawaiian  islands. 

Before  us  on  a  little  hill  with  its  back  to 
the  mountains  and  its  face  out  toward  the  Pa- 
cific was  a  cream  white,  gold  trimmed,  frieze 
decorated  temple.  It  was  approached  by  two 
broad  stone  walks,  with  frequent  sets  of  five 
or  six  steps,  the  space  between  the  walks  being 
occupied  with  pools  of  beautiful  water  with 
fountains  ])laying  in  them  and  all  about  the 
tem])le  stretched  a  beautifully  green  lawn  ui)on 
which  were  many  large,  decorative  tropical 
plants,  while  at  the  rear  of  the  temple  and  on 
either  side,  perhaps  some  one  hundred  and  fifty 


194  A  TRIP   TO   THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

feet  back  were  two  artisically  constructed  fern 
houses  connected  by  a  stone  walk  borderino-  on 
the  termination  of  the  mountain  edge  of  the 
lawn. 

This  whole  scene  burst  upon  us  like  a  light 
out  of  darkness.  Here  men  had  taken  advant- 
age of  the  beautiful  surroundings  of  nature  and 
had  gone  the  limit  in  an  effort  to  attain  to  an 
artistic  effect  that  would  breath  out  something 
suggestive  of  the  divine  to  all  who  looked  upon 
it.  It  was  and  is  a  Mormon  temple,  built  at  a 
cost  of  $250,000;  a  near  replica  of  the  Salt  Lake 
temi)le,  only  in  smaller  form.  It  stands  as  some- 
tliing  startlingly,  strangely,  weirdly  beautiful. 
One  feels  as  if  it  might  really  be  the  *' House  of 
the  Living  God."  The  frieze  work  facing  from 
the  top  of  the  four  sides  of  the  temple  are  re- 
productions of  famous  pictures  of  biblical 
scenes.  The  cornice  stones  at  the  corners  of 
the  upper  parts  of  the  building  are  tipi)ed  in 
gilt.  The  architectural  style  of  the  building 
])roclaims  its  purpose  without  further  explana- 
tion. The  designers  attained  to  their  end  m 
building  it.  Tlie  observer  knows  at  once  that 
the  buihling  was  designed  to  be  a  sacred  place. 

There  were  men  of  the  faith  there  to  receive 
us  and  to  show  us  about  and  to  explain  every- 
thing to  us.  Profane  feet  must  not  enter  the 
temple  so  all  we  saw  was  on  the  f»utside.  We 
asked  many  questions,  many  significant,  others 
not  so  much  so. 

' '  Does  your  church  still  believe  in  and  prac- 
tice polygamy?"  was  the  most  interesting  ques- 
tion ])ropounded  to  our  Mormon  friend. 

"Our  church  does  not  practice  polygamy," 
the  Mormon  rei)lied.  "Polygamy  is  against 
the  laws  of  this  country  and  it  is  not  practiced, 
or  countenanced  by  our  church.  As  a  church 
we  do  not  denounce  the  principle  of  polygamy. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS 


195 


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196  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


I  am  myself  the  son  of  a  father  who  had  eiftht 
wives  and  fifty-seven  chihlren.  Polygamy  was 
practiced  by  onr  people  in  accordance  with  a 
revelation  authorizing-  it.  Revelations  we  be- 
lieve are  just  as  necessary  now  as  they  ever 
were  and  God  makes  his  revelations  to  us.  It 
is  one  of  the  established  principles  of  our  faith 
to  subject  ourselves  to  the  laws  of  the  coun- 
try in  which  we  live.  God  authorizes  that  and 
we  obey.  We  render  unto  Caesar  the  things 
that  are  Caesar's." 

' '  Who  can  enter  the  temple  ? ' ' 
"Only  those  who  are  known  to  be  fit.  They 
must  be  tried  in  the  faith,  true  to  our  doctrines, 
clean.  In  one  part  of  the  temple  we  permit  our 
young  people  to  enter  to  be  married.  There 
they  are  sealed  for  eternity.  The  ordinance  is 
sacred." 

"You  don't  have  divorces  then?" 
"Yes,  we  have  special  provisions  for  that, 
in  case  husband  and  wife  find  they  have  made 
a  mistake." 

I  didn't  quite  get  him  there.  Sealed  for 
eternitv,  unsealed  for  eternity.  The  process 
seems  bewildering,  but  what  of  it.  The  face  of 
our  Mormon  friend  had  settled  into  an  expres- 
sion that  brooked  no  equivocation.  You  and  I 
have  both  seen  them  often  and  will  see  them 
again.  '  That  face  that  looks  upon  you 
proclaiming  that  "I  am  set  in  the  eternal  faith. 
My  understanding  is  final.  What  I  know,  I 
know.'  There  is  'no  power  under  heaven  given 
among  men'  that  can  change  me.  I  am  right, 
eternallv    right,    all    else    is    wrong,    eternally 


Avrong. ' ' 


We  ])urchased  a  picture  card  or  two  and 
then  climbed  into  our  automobiles  meekly  and 
wended  our  way  u]i  along  the  coast  talking 
Mormonism,  plural   wi\es,  big  families,  tariff, 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  197 

])irioap])los,  otc,  etc.,  iiiilil  all,  of  a  sndrloTi  we 
came  to  another  world  wonder.  Well,  tliey  said 
it  was  anyway.  They  say  it  is  one  of  the  ])ig'- 
gest  wireless  stations  in  the  world.  Marconi 
himself  eanie  over  and  snyjervised  its  eonstrnc- 
tion.  It  had  great  tall  steel  poles  and  wires 
enongh  for  forty  sneh  stations  as  I  had  seen 
before.  It  covers  acres  and  acres  of  ground.  It 
stands  on  an  island  ])oint  far  out  in  the  ocean, 
in  radio  line  witli  all  tlie  world.  Dming  the 
Avar  it  grabbed  stuff  from  Germany,  I  was  in- 
formed, etc.,  etc. 

I  must  not  get  away  without  saying  a  little 
more  about  the  IMormons  and  their  Haw^aiian 
people,  though.  A  local  man  w^as  my  authority 
and  he  stated  that  the  membershi])  of  the  Mor- 
mon church  in  Hawaii  is  made  uj)  princi]jally 
of  Hawaiians  and  that  they  are  the  best  be- 
ha^"ed,  the  most  prosperous,  the  most  indus 
triaily  useful  Hawaiians  on  the  islands.  He 
thinks  that  it  is  the  show  of  the  thing  that 
attracts  them  and  that  some  features  of  the 
Mormon  faith  are  like  their  old  religion.  Then, 
too,  there  is  always  something  to  strive  for. 
Tliey  must  be  real  good  so  that  some  day 
they  will  be  permitted  to  get  into  that  "Holy 
of  Holies"  and  look  around.  The  Mormon 
teachings  insist  upon  clean,  regular  personal 
habits,  no  drinking,  no  chewing,  no  swearing, 
no  other  forms  of  unseemingly  conduct.  No 
wonder  they  are  thrifty.  They  seem  to  have 
helped  the  HaAvaiians. 


198  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXIV. 
A  Visit  to  Pearl  Harbor 

Honolulu,    October    30.    1921 

There  is  a  wonderful  naval  base  here,  far 
back  in  narrowly  approached  but  fine  deep  lit- 
tle bays  on  the  Oahu  coast.    Our  program  said: 

Pearl  Harbor  is  a  deep  inlet,  extending  some 
six  miles  inland,  through  a  long,  narrow, 
winding  channel  of  river-like  proportions.  It 
is  divided  into  three  arms  or  locks,  and  has 
some  30  miles  of  deep  water  front  and  depth 
enough  to  float  any  vessel  of  the  Navy. 

The  United  States  government  has  deepened 
and  straightened  the  entrance  channel,  con- 
structed fuel  oil  and  coaling  stations,  a  first- 
class  concrete  di-ydock,  construction  and  repair 
shops,  flying  field,  hangars  for  both  army  and 
navy,  submarine  base,  naval  and  marine  bar- 
racks, and  generally  has  made  a  naval  station 
of  the  first  class,  which  is  being  constantly 
added  to  and  improved.  Pearl  Harbor  is  de- 
fended by  a  series  of  Coast  Artillery  forts. 
Plans   for  extension  have   been  formulated. 

We  visited  Pearl  harbor  October  29th.  Si)e- 
cial  street  cars  took  us  from  our  hotels  to  the 
naval  dock  on  Allan  street  at  9  o'clock  in  the 
mornino'  and  there  we  boarded  mine  swee])ers 
that  were  to  transport  us  to  the  naval  base.  The 
trip  out  however  was  not  to  be  featureless.  In 
fact,  that  was  a  larg'e  part  of  the  show.  Our 
transports  were  under  escort,  one  destroyer,  tw 
eagle  boats  and  a  seaplane  being  our  ])rotec- 
tive  companions  as  we  steamed  out  from  the 
dock  at  Honolulu. 

We  were  well  protected,  for  understand, 
there  was  danger  of  an  attack  from  submar- 
ines, and  Axlmiral  Simpson  himself  in  com- 
mand, was  determined  t]iat  we  should  be  guard- 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  VJ\) 

vd  Oil  evciy  luiiid  and  I'lotii  above.  Our  traiis- 
])orts,  miiio  sweepers  that  had  seen  active  war 
service  in  the  Atlantic,  were  (jiiite  different  in 
size  and  accoiinnodations  from  the  'hift-  slii])  that 
we  had  sailed  into  Ilonohilu  on.  We  ,i>()t  a  real 
taste  of  sea  ,G,oin<;'  on  a  wai'  boat  diii'ino-  this  tri[). 
The  boats  reacted  to  the  swell  of  the  sea  read- 
ily and  tlie  result  was  considerable  internal  dis- 
tress on  the  i)art  of  some  of  our  party,  but  the 
ride  was  not  a  prolonged  one,  so  there  was  not 
so  much  trouble  of  that  kind  as  we  would  have 
had  had  the  excursion  canned  us  far  out  upon 
the  more  distant  waves  of  the  Pacific. 

There  was  one  interruption  to  the  morn- 
ing's program  that  was  indeed  interesting.  We 
had  just  got  nicely  under  headway,  driving  out 
into  the  sea,  with  our  escorts  all  strung  out  in 
regular  formation  covering  perhaps  two  and  a 
half  miles,  when  a  decrepit  old  boat  s])itting  out 
huge  columns  of  smoke  and  })lougliing  awk- 
wardly and  deliberately  through  the  waves, 
came  in  on  our  left,  threatening  to  disru])t  our 
formation,  and  mar  the  even  tenor  of  our  ap- 
pointed way. 

The  Captain  of  our  boat  used  language 
which  we  will  not  rejiroduce  here.  We  all  sym- 
pathized w^ith  him  in  his  vocalizations,  but  that 
didn't  help  any.  On  came  that  dirty,  measly 
old  trani]^  steamer,  headed  for  the  orient, 
standing  on  her  rights  evidently,  and  she 
wasn't  going  to  vary  her  plan  of  lu-ocedure  for 
any  other  boat  on  the  high  seas.  The  water  was 
as  much  hers  as  ours.  We  assumed  at  once 
that  she  was  an  oriental  vessel  whose  captain 
and  crew  didn't  give  a  tinkers  "durn"  for  any 
thing  or  anybody. 

It  looked  as  if  our  whole  ])lan  of  procedure 
was  to  be  interru])ted.  Of  course,  we  assumed 
that  it  was  a  Japanese  freighter,  and  it  was. 


200  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

What  did  tliey  care  for  iis  ?  We  were  all  just 
ready  to  join  the  anti-Jap  movement  for  all 
time  to  come;  to  enroll  ourselves  with  the  ir- 
reconcilables  of  our  Pacific  coast  in  a  persistent 
and  uncompromising  crusade  against  the  Jap 
wherever  he  might  be.  "Down  with  the  Jap," 
we  were  ready  to  shout.  "To  Hades  with  the 
mikado."  Yes,  we  were  beginning  to  more  fully 
appreciate  the  real  danger  to  the  civilized 
world  of  the  "yellow  peril"  when  something 
happened.  The  ragged  old  tramp  steamer  fal- 
tered a  trifle  in  her  course;  she  hesitated  a 
moment  or  two,  and  then  like  a  hog  rooting  in 
the  garden  she  nosed  her  way  around  until  she 
was  headed  due  south  and  lumbered  off  through 
the  great  waves,  giving  us  a  semi-circle  lee- 
way more  than  abundant  for  the  perfection  of 
all   our  ])rogram  maneuvers. 

And,  when  all  was  said  and  done,  we  learned 
that  the  boat  which  has  threatened  our  plans 
for  the  day,  was,  as  above  noted,  a  Japanese 
freighter;  a  slow  going,  deliberately  inclined 
vessel  that  sort  of  drifted  hither  and  thither  as 
the  exigencies  of  commerce  encouraged  her  so 
to  do.  On  this  particular  morning  of  our  great 
"naval  show"  the  Jai)anese  freighter  started 
westward  for  Yokahama,  all  unaware  of  the 
fact  that  the  World's  Press  Congress  party  was 
being  transported  with  elaborate  escort  out  to 
Pearl  harbor. 

The  captain  of  the  Japanese  boat  soon  ob- 
served, however,  that  there  was  something  un- 
usual doing  in  the  waters  and  by  wireless  and 
signalling  he  was  informed  as  to  the  character 
of  the  morning's  exhibition  and  just  as  soon  as 
he  got  that  information  he  ordered  his  vessel 
to  vary  its  course  far  enough  to  give  us  abund- 
ant room  for  the  perfection  of  the  scheduled 
program  and  on  he  went  with  his  old  tub  lum- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  201 


hi'fin,!!,'  1  lif()iii;li  the  nii^lity  waves.  And  what 
about  us  who  were  just  upon  tlie  verge  of  be- 
ing couvei-ted  to  an  uu compromising'  attitude 
toward  the  Jai)anese?  We  revised  our  con- 
clusions, at  least  to  the  extent  of  admitting 
tliat  this  ohl  dap  (^a]).  was  a  luiglity  decent  soi't 
of  a  fedow. 

Later,  when  1  went  beh)w  in  our  boat,  I  dis- 
covered that  one  of  the  under  officers  on  this  U. 
S.  A.  mine  sweeper  was  a  Jai)anese  boy.  Was 
I  horrified"?  Well,  I  was  surprised.  A  Jap  boy 
actually  a  ])art  of  our  naval  force!  What  might 
he  not  do  against  us?  I  voiced  my  misgivings 
to  one  of  oui"  own  ]ieople,  an  officer  on  this 
same  boat,  and  he  didn't  seem  to  l)e  much  con- 
cerned about  it;  simi)ly  called  my  attention  to 
the  fact  that  the  particular  Jaj)  officer  whom  I 
had  seen  and  many  other  Jap  bo^s  had  serv- 
ed all  through  tlie  World  war  side  by  side  with 
regular  "United  States"  l)oys  on  U.  S.  boats 
and  all  liad  served  efficiently  and  patriotically. 
He  admitted  that  he  wasn't  "scart  a  bit." 

The  discussion  of  the  Japanese  <|uestion  was 
interrupted  by  the  thrilling  announcement  that 
we  were  being  attacked  by  submarines.  Of 
course  that  threw  us  all  into  a  ])anic  of  excite- 
ment. Periscopes  were  in  sight  all  over  the 
waters,  on  every  hand.  Most  of  them  ])roved 
to  be  imaginary  periscopes,  though.  Finally, 
we  did  see  a  real  one,  then  another,  then  an- 
other. There  were  four  subs  right  on  our  trail. 
And  one  of  them  fired  a  torpedo.  We  saw  it 
leave  the  submarine  and  trace  its  rippling 
course  out  across  the  sea.  Farther  and 
farther  it  went,  the  line  of  its  passage  being 
clearly  seen  by  the  naked  eye.  Far,  far  out  we 
saw  it  make  a  sudden  lunge  or  two  and  then  it 
floated  on  the  surface  of  the  sea  and  two 
launches  wliicli  liad  l)een  ]:»ursuing  it,  later  drag- 


202  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


ged  it  into  dock  where  it  was  lifted  back  to  its 
home  on  the  submarine  which  had  fired  if. 

Fortunately  no  torpedoes  hit  us.  We  es- 
caped the  attack  without  injury.  Perhaps  that 
was  a  part  of  the  program.  Anyway,  the  one 
torpedo  which  we  saw  fired  was  directed  away 
from  us.  The  subs  submerged  for  our  benefit, 
came  to  the  surface,  dropped  down  again  and 
finally  drifted  away.  In  our  lead  a  destroyer 
that  had  been  quietly  moving  along  making  no 
especial  display  of  herself  suddenly  began  spit- 
ting out  the  hugest  quantities  of  smoke  we  had 
ever  seen  coming  from  such  a  segregated  center 
and  we  intuitively  realized  that  said  destroyer 
was  putting  on  a  smoke  screen  in  order  to  dem- 
onstrate to  us  the  manner  in  which  transports 
are  shielded  from  periscopic  observation  when 
there  is  real  submarine  danger. 

Above  us  we  heard  the  hornet  like  buzz  of 
sea  planes  and  then  there  came  great  explos- 
ions. Hastening  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
boat  we  discovered  that  two  sea  planes  were 
bombing  a  traget  set  in  the  sea.  The  bombs 
drop]:»ed  from  the  plane,  a  half  mile  high, 
struck  the  water  with  great  exi)losions  that  ex- 
])ressed  themselves  in  the  form  of  huge  geysers 
in  which  the  water  seemed  to  spray  up  to  a 
height  of  a  couple  of  hundred  feet. 

Next,  the  sea  planes  appeared  again,  after  a 
short  withdrawal  for  change  of  proi^erties,  one 
plane  towing  a  target  which  was  attacked  with 
great  destructive  ability  by  the  other  plane 
manned  by  a  pilot  and  a  sliar])  shooter.  Before 
this  exhibition  was  over  the  target  was  a  sad- 
ly mutilated  ol)ject. 

After  we  were  landed  at  the  naval  station 
we  were  taken  to  the  great  dry  dock,  sufficient 
in  capacity  to  accommodate  the  largest  of  our 
war  shipsj  and  the  dock  was  partially  flooded 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  203 

in  order  that  we  iiii,<>lit  see  that  process.  We 
nia(h'  a  tonr  of  the  radio  station,  visiled  tiie 
submarine  stations  and  inspected  the  submar- 
ines at  short  range.  One  of  tliem  dipped  nn- 
<lei"  the  water  as  we  stood  witliin  a  few  feet 
of  it.  A  deep  sea  diver,  weighted  down  witli 
all  the  necessary  paraphenalia  in  making  a  voy- 
age to  the  l)ottoni  of  the  sea,  clind)ed  over  the 
rail  of  a  vessel  and  took  the  i)lunge.  To  wind 
it  all  up  there  was  a  reception  in  the  "Reception 
Hall"  where  we  had  the  chance  to  shake  hands 
with  the  admirals  and  the  captains  and  such 
like,  including  their  wives  and  other  illustrious 
citizens  of  the  Pearl  Harbor  station.  Mess  was 
served  in  Mess  Hall,  the  banquet  provided  by 
the  officers  of  the  station,  and  it  was  a  very 
nice  mess,  thank  you;  plenty  to  eat,  good  in 
quality,  ample  in  (|uantity  and  the  s])eecli  mak- 
ing was  short  and  to  the  ])oint.  Admiral  Sini])- 
son,  who  Avas  at  all  times  the  perfection  of  cor- 
diality to  all  spoke  briefly  for  the  Navy  de- 
partment and  Walter  Williams  responded  in 
an  equally  brief  manner. 

Trains  took  us  by  land  back  to  the  city.  The 
path  lay  through  rice  fields,  taro  patches,  small 
sugar  fields  and  the  like.  There  was  a  little 
moisture  in  the  air  and  it  sprinkled  frequently. 
Rainbows,  radiantly  bright  in  their  colorings 
hovered  around  us  all  the  while.  This  is  a  land 
of  rainbows.  They  seem  to  make  their  head- 
quarters in  Hawaii.  They  come  right  up  into 
the  back  yai'd  and  sit  down.  There  is  no  pot 
of  gold  at  the  end  of  the  rainbow  in  this  land  of 
many  strange  beauties,  either.  We  know  be- 
cause many  and  many  a  rainbow  ended  within 
a  few  feet  of  us  in  the  fields  as  we  traced  our 
way  back  to  Honolulu  this  day.  They  tell  us, 
too,  that  they  have  lunar  rainbows  on  the  Ha- 
waiian islands.  I  did  not  get  to  see  one  of  those. 


204  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


o 


there  were  none  of  them  ont  the  nights  I  was 
out. 

Tlie  rice  fields  were  the  most  interesting 
fields  we  noticed  from  the  train  on  this  trip 
Some  of  them  were  being  flooded,  but  the 
unique  features  about  the  rice  patches,  was  the 
scare  crow  exliibit.  All  over  the  fields  but  a  few 
feet  apart  were  scarecrows;  human  forms  "ef- 
figied,"  rags  dangling  in  the  air,  strange,  un- 
couth, bedraggled  figures  whose  purpose  it  was 
to  frigliten  the  rice  birds  away. 

These  birds  w^e  learned  are  especially  de- 
structive of  the  rice.  They  know  a  good  thing 
when  they  meet  it.  They  care  for  no  other  food 
as  they  care  for  the  rice  grain.  They  eat  it 
alive  without  sugar,  or  cream  or  pungent  con- 
diment. Therefore,  the  Chinese  and  Japanese 
growers  of  rice  hate  the  rice  l)ird  and  the  rice 
bird  knows  of  that  hatred.  They  know  it  to 
their  sorrow.  They  know  it  so  well  that  they 
fear  the  angry  rice  grower  and  they  shy  even 
from  the  wind  swept  rags  that  wave  their  flesh- 
less  arms  about  over  the  fields.  The  scarecrow 
gets  the  rice  bird's  goat. 

The  taro,  like  the  rice,  grows  in  the  mud. 
We  saw  Chinese  and  Japanese  farmers  working 
in  taro  fields;  following  the  plow  drawn  by  the 
carabao,  the  water  buffalo,  domesticated  here 
and  used  for  work  in  the  mud,  because  it  loves 
mud.  The  field  prospect  was  not  alluring.  It 
was  hard  for  us  to  understand  how  one  could 
endui'e  plodding  along  behind  a  plow  through 
the  mud  mush  of  a  taro  or  rice  field,  but  the 
Japanese  and  Chinese,  do  it  and  seem  to  like  it. 
They  come  in  from  the  fields  heavy  with  the 
murk  of  the  rice  or  the  taro  ]iatch,  they  bathe 
in  a  garden  pool,  or  in  the  sea  if  it  is  near  by, 
and  then  in  the  evening  they  take  the  wife  and 
the  children  and  go  to  the  ])icture  show,  if  there 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  20i 


is  OIK'  near  by.  Tlic  piclurc  sliow  Jias  I'caclied 
its  anus  even  over  into  tlie  obscure  little  vil- 
luft'i's  of  tile  Hawaiian  islands.  There  are  Jap- 
anese and  (hinese  picture,  houses  in  which  \ai'- 
ious  of  oui'  American  screen  stars  seem  to  l)e  as 
well  known  as  they  are  in  tlie  heari  of  ilie  main- 
land of  the  United  States. 

Just  one  word  here  about  the  taro  plant,  the 
plant  that  has  been  the  vegetable  basis  of  the 
food  for  tlie  native  Hawaiians.  from  time  im- 
memorial. It  is  a  root  food  like  our  parsni]), 
ov  sweet  i^otato. 

P^roni  it  the  natives  make  "poi."  Cooked 
poi  looks  like  a  ground  wheat  cereal  but  it 
tastes  differently.  It  is  put  through  a  process 
of  fermentation  and  the  result  is  that  the  per- 
fected food  has  a  sour  flavor.  It  is  easy  to 
learn  to  like  it,  but  few  like  it  at  first.  The  na- 
tives used  to  soften  the  taro  plant  in  hot  water 
and  then  pound  it  into  a  dry  powder  in  a  great 
stone  bowl,  using  a  stone  in  the  pounding  pro- 
cess. The  task  of  preparing  the  poi  was  no 
easy  one,  and  that  was  the  work  of  the  old 
women  of  the  tribes.  The  more  thoroughly  it 
was  pounded  the  more  delicate  the  texture  of 
the  finished  product.  The  chiefs  were  always 
fed  with  the  l)est,  of  course,  and  that  evolved 
the  official  position  of  *'clief"  to  the  king,  or 
to  the  chief,  and  his  poi  had  to  be  real  classv 
stuff. 

The  poi  was  eaten  from  the  bowl  in  which 
it  was  cooked;  the  diners  dipping  their  fingers 
into  the  food  and  then  sucking  it  off.  One  way 
of  determining  the  (piality  of  the  poi  served  by 
a  host,  or  hostess,  was  by  the  quantity  that 
one  could  lift  on  one  finger.  If  one  finger  did 
not  carry  a  sufficient  quantity  to  make  a  good 
mouthful,  then  the  guest  used  "two  fingers," 
and  if  two  fingers  were  not  sufficient,  the  poi 
became  "three  finger"  poi. 


20  6  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

It  lias  taken  quite  a  while  to  get  back  into 
Honoluln  by  railway  train  from  the  naval  sta- 
tion, hasn't  it?  Bnt  here  we  are  at  last — back 
to  the  great  metropolis  of  the  islands.  There 
is  the  bnsy  hnm  of  commerce  on  every  hand. 
Were  it  not  for  the  conglomerate  popnlation  we 
wonld  hardly  know  that  we  are  outside  of  the 
United  States.  There  they  go,  deliberately 
moving  Chinese,  rather  inclined  to  corpnlency; 
quickly  moving  Japs,  sturdy  Hawaiians,  naval 
officers,  Jackies,  Chinese,  Japanese,  Portuguese 
children,  an  occasional  white  boy,  street  cars. 
Fords,  Buicks,  Studebakers,  Packards,  Pierce 
Arrows  and  a  horse  drawn  vehicle,  the  horse 
a  sorry  equine  specimen,  having  picked  its  way 
into  the  city  from  some  outlying  district  under 
the  encouraging  influence  of  an  unusual  native 
who  persistently  scorns  all  the  overtures  of  civ- 
ilization. He  sits  stolidly  on  the  seat  of  his 
sadly  dilapidated  cart  and  looks  out  u])on  the 
swirling  crowds  in  contemptuous  indifference. 
He  swerves  neither  to  the  right,  nor  the  left. 
Automobiles,  pedestrians,  street  cars  side  track 
for  him.    He  fears  nothing.    He  is  a  fatalist. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  207 


LirrTKK^  XXX w 
A  Friend  at  Court 

Honolulu,    October    30,    1921 

It  lias  ))eeii  an  advaiitai>'e  to  me  to  meet  in 
Honolulu  a  former  resident  of  my  own  county 
in  Iowa,  Mr.  ('.  K.  Pringle.  No  one  could  have 
been  more  liberal  Avitli  his  time  and  g-asoline 
than  he  has  been  in  helping  me  to  see  all  that 
could  be  seen  in  the  brief  time  that  the  World's 
press  delegation  are  spending  in  Honolulu.  He 
it  was  who  i)iloted  us  on  our  trip  around  the 
island  and  he  it  was  wdio  took  me  one  day  to 
visit  his  pineapple  i^lantation  on  the  top  of  a 
mountain  in  whose  ascent  we  encountered  more 
natural  obstacles  than  one  would  encounter  in 
fifty  times  the  same  distance  in  placid  Iowa. 
The  road  led  up  the  side  of  a  mountain  over 
rocks  and  tree  stumps  and  ragged  mountain 
points  for  some  two  or  three  miles  and  to  a 
lieight  of  several  hundred  feet  above  the  city 
of  Honolulu.  It  twisted  here  and  there  at  many 
points  to  make  the  grade  and  ever  and  anon  we 
were  coming  to  s]iots  where  dynamite  had  been 
used  to  blaze  the  way.    Some  way  it  was! 

My  host  had  ex])lored  all  this  afoot  and  had 
founcl  on  the  top  and  side  of  this  mountain  a 
beshrubl)ed  tract  of  some  one  hundred  forty 
acres  which,  underneath  its  ragged,  uncouth 
surface  promised  something  if  it  were  cleared 
off  and  planted  in  pineapples.  Now,  there  is  a 
good  pineap])le  crop  on  the  way  on  the  top  of 
this  hill.  This  little  ])ineapple  plantation  is 
one  of  the  first  cultivated  points  that  comes  in 
view  as  the  boats  round  Diamond  head,  com- 
ing into  Honolulu   harbor.     For  several   miles 


208  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

one  can  discern  the  tract  on  the  top  of  a  ragged 
monntain,  and  it  stands  ont  in  nnfailing  testi- 
mony tliat  enterprising  hnman  liands  are  busy 
even  on  the  mountain  tops  of  the  Jiawaiian  is- 
hmds. 

I  went  with  my  friend  one  day,  too,  to  his 
little  home  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
many  beautiful  valleys  adjoining  Honolulu.  He 
has  a  valuable  five  acre  tract  upon  which  he 
has  his  fine  little  cottage  home  with  orange 
trees,  banana  plants,  papaia  and  other  tropical 
vegetation  in  his  back  yard,  and  some  pretty 
floral  foliage  in  the  front.  Yes,  back  in  one 
corner  of  his  tract,  too,  he  has  a  real  for  sure 
chicken  pen  with  some  big  white  hens  rusticat- 
ing through  the  deep  foliage.  There  was  some- 
thing familiar  looking  about  those  hens.  They 
looked  upon  me  with  unconcealed  interest,  too. 
Had  w^e  met  before? 

Maybe  we  had  never  met  before  in  person, 
but  in  spirit  we  were  the  same.  All  of  us  were 
from  Iowa.  These  hens  and  one  stalwart  roost- 
er of  the  same  type  had  made  the  same  trip  I 
have  so  recently  made.  They  had  shipped 
from  Washington  county,  Iowa,  and  are  now 
residents  of  Honolulu,  Oahu,  Hawaiian  islands. 
They  do  not  seem  to  have  learned  the  Hawaiian 
language  yet,  since  they  cackled  in  the  same  old 
familiar  tones  that  I  learned  to  understand  in 
Iowa,  and  in  manners  they  seem  to  have  chang- 
ed little  for  my  friend  had  a  row  with  one  of 
them  in  my  presence,  the  controversy  being  ov- 
er whether  the  hen  should  be  allowed  to  "set" 
or  not.  While  the  "man"  seemed  to  master  the 
situation  while  we  were  all  together,  yet  I  have 
no  doubt  that  immediately  we  were  gone  the 
hen  "squatted"  again  on  tlu^  di'ied  lemon 
which  seemed  to  be  the  center  of  her  attentions 
when  we  first  came  on  the  scene.    We  tried  to 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  209 

make  a  joke  out  of  "lemonade"  and  "lemon- 
laid,"  etc.,  but  we  didn't  <'et  very  iar  with  it. 

Til  is  home  is  liio'll  up  in  a  little  valley.  Go 
just  a  little  farther  u]),  as  we  did,  and  one  eomes 
to  the  jum})iug  off  ])laee;  to  the  place  where  the 
valley  becomes  too  narrow  and  the  liills  too 
steep  for  further  vehicle  navig'ation.  On  either 
side  are  great  high,  green  mountains.  The 
scenery  is  beautiful.  I  spent  one  delightful 
night  in  this  valley  home,  out  of  sight  and 
sound  of  the  ocean  and  so  far  around  the  cor- 
ner from  Honolulu  that  its  existence  was  not 
in  evidence,  although  a  short  drive  down  a  good 
road  was  all  that  was  required  to  again  bring 
us  into  stirring  city  activity. 

( )ne  other  day  we  drove  from  Honolulu  across 
the  island  to  the  sea  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
island.  There  were  coral  reefs  over  there,  and 
glass  bottomed  boats  from  which  to  view  the 
deep  sea  scenery.  Of  course  we  enjoyed  it  all. 
It  was  all  amazingly  beautiful.  In  the  drive 
from  PInnolulu  at  sea  level  to  the  sea  level  at 
the  opi)osite  side  of  the  island  we  went  but 
about  twelve  miles  in  distance,  but  we  reached 
an  altitude  of  1200  feet  at  the  Pali,  the  mount- 
ain  pass. 

The  Pali  is  the  point  where  Kamehameha 
first  won  the  final  victory  that  made  him  ruler 
of  the  consolidated  islands.  Here  there  is  a 
sheer  precipice  dropping  to  the  windward  side 
of  the  island  several  hundred  feet.  Up  this 
point  the  king  forced  the  enemy  army  and 
then  rolled  them  over  that  precipice.  The  pass 
has  l)een  perfected  now  by  the  building  of  a 
road  around  the  Pali.  The  path  has  been  blasted 
out  and  cement  Availed  at  the  outside.  Through 
this  little  crack  in  the  mountain  range  the  pas- 
sage is  effected.  So  strong  is  the  wind  current 
through   this   gorge,   opening   out   toward   the 


210  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

ocean  on  both  sides  that  a  steel  wire  is  attached 
by  heavy  iron  bolts  to  the  walls  of  the  mount- 
ain in  order  tliat  pedestrians  may  cling  to  it  as 
they  pass  around  the  point  and  not  be  flung-  by 
the  sometimes  terrific  wind  over  the  precipitous 
wall. 

On  tlie  windward  side  of  tlie  decline,  the 
more  precij^itous  side,  the  road  is  protected  on 
the  outside  by  a  heavy  cement  wall  built  about 
three  feet  high  and  two  feet  thick.  This  wall 
extends  a  distance  of  about  three  and  one-half 
miles  and  the  eliml)  in  that  distance  is  about 
nine  hundred  feet. 

I  owe  much  to  my  friend  too  for  informa- 
tion about  Hawaii  and  Hawaiian  history.  He 
has  spent  thirty-one  years  on  the  islands  and 
he  knows  them  and  knows  their  history. 

The  political  history  of  the  islands  has  been 
very  interesting  ever  since  their  value  to  the 
world  became  apparent.  We  early  recognized 
their  strategical  value  to  us;  so  did  Japan.  The 
English  flag  flew  over  them  for  awhile  as  did 
the  Russian  flag.  There  were  insurrections  and 
insurrections,  but  they  were  never  very  formid- 
able in  character,  because  of  the  fact  that  the 
larger  powers  would  not  permit  it.  War  ves- 
sels and  marines  were  always  on  hands  and 
supervised  the  situation  very  closely. 

Queen  Liliuokalani  early  in  her  brief 
career  as  queen  clashed  with  the  interests  in 
Hawaii.  The  king  preceding  her  had  discov- 
ered that  the  king  wasn't  very  much  of  a  king- 
any  more  and  he  had  sought  to  gain  l)ack  some 
of  the  lost  power.  The  queen,  too,  set  about  to 
do  the  same  thing,  to  proclaim  a  new  constitu- 
tion and  to  reorganize.  Too  late!  The  island 
had,  we  might  say,  fallen  into  other  hands.  Civ- 
ilization, as  we  call  it,  was  introducing-  democ- 
racv   into   the   islands.     There   are   those   Avho 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  211 

claiiii  tlint  ilic  new  (Iciiiocrncx'  was  rcall\'  an 
autocracy  foiiiulcMl  u\)()\\  the  wish  to  exploit  the 
resoTivees  of  the  ishiiuls.  Be  tliat  as  it  may, 
the  fact  develoiis  tliat  (^)ueen  Jjil  was  dethroned, 
the  islands  were  made  a  repiiljlic  and  hnter  on, 
as  we  all  know,  became  a  part  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  f-aid  that  there  are  still  living  in 
Ilonolnhi  men,  very  prominent  in  the  financial 
affairs  of  the  islands  n])on  whose  lieads  ())neen 
Lii  had  set  a  price  and  whose  physical  annihil- 
ation would  have  given  her  great  joy.     Some 


NATIVE   HAWAIIAN    BOYS 

Dressed  up,  all  ready  to  go  to  Sunday  School.  The 
picture  was  taken  late  in  the  fall  and  the  youngsters 
had  their  heavy  clothes  on.      They  are  splendid  singers. 

in  the  islands  still  say  she  w^as  right;  that  she 
and  her  people  were  greatly  wronged. 

We  are  not  here  to  pronounce  judgment. 
Much  injustice  has  been  wrought  in  the  name 
of  civilization.  Does  the  end  justify  the 
sometimes  imjierfect  and  erring  means?  Which 
would  be  best  for  the  good  of  the  world 
in  general:  that  200,000  natives  should  live  on 
the  Hawaiian  islands  as  they  did  prior  to  civ- 
ilization's appearance  thereon,  or  that  200,000 
])eo])le  should  live  there  as  they  do  today?  Or, 


212  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


does  it  make  any  particular  difference  liow  tliey 
live,  since  all  ninst  qnit  living  so  soon,  anyway? 

There  seems  bnt  one  answer,  regardless  of 
the  possible  imperfections  of  today.  The  ter- 
ril)le  slavery  of  the  snbjects  of  savage,  super- 
stitious, sometimes  brutal  kings  and  cliiefs  is 
not  for  this  day  and  age.  The  kings  of  the  an- 
cient Hawaiians  were  looked  upon  as  almost 
divine.  It  was  death  to  pass  under  the  king's 
shadow,  to  stand  in  his  presence,  to  remain 
standing  at  the  mention  of  his  name,  to  be  near 
Avhen  food  that  he  was  to  eat  was  being  car- 
ried by  one  consecrated  to  that  special  service. 
He  willed  the  death  of  any  of  his  subjects  at 
any  time.  The  common  people  owned  no  prop- 
erty. They  could  be  dispossessed  at  will  and 
with  each  new  chief,  generally,  the  old  land  oc- 
cupants were  dispossessed  and  the  foUow^ers  of 
the  new  ruler  were  installed,  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  we  pass  out  our  postoffices  today 
when  a  nev^  chief  takes  charge  of  the  White 
House  in  Washington,  excepting  that  in  the  an- 
cient Hawaiian  system  there  was  a  greater 
flow  of  real  blood,  generally,  with  each  change 
of  administration. 

The  people  were  idol  worshippers  and  they 
were  held  in  a  constant  state  of  fear  by  the 
priests,  or  kahunas,  who  were  supposed  to  be 
in  commmiication  with  the  gods  and  who  pos- 
sessed the  power  to  pray  people  to  death.  Here 
the  black  arts  were  indulged  to  perfection  and 
as  usual  the  common  people  were  the  goats. 


WITH    WORLD'S    I'UESS    CONUKESS  213 


LETTER  XXX\1. 
The  Plantations  and  "Old  Hawaii" 

Honolulu,   October   31,    1921 

111  none  of  these  letters  have  1  told  of  oiii- 
trij)  to  the  Hawaiian  pineapple  plantations,  to 
the  canneries,  to  the  sugar  mills  and  through 
the  great  cane  fields.  There  is  not  so  ninch  to 
those  incidents;  not  so  much  that  is  interest- 
ing in  a  novel  way.  We  have  canneries  in  the 
United  States  and  we  have  cane  fields,  too. 

The  Hawaiian  pineapple  has  the  reputation 
of  being  the  finest  pineapple  in  the  world.  It 
justifies  its  reputation.  It's  a  peach  of  a  pine- 
ai)i)le.  They  grow  to  weigh  as  high  as  twelve 
to  fifteen  pounds,  here,  and  if  I  am  not  mistak- 
en the  market  value  in  the  field  today  is  about 
$2().()0  a  ton.  This  fruit  grows  at  a  higher  level 
than  does  the  sugar  cane;  a  little  different  cli- 
mate is  required.  Cane  and  pineapples  do  not 
grow  well,  side  by  side.  I  am  no  authority  on 
the  subject  but  the  pineapi^le  seems  to  me  to 
be  an  odd  animal.  Does  it  belong  to  the  cacti 
tribe?  The  fruit  itself  is  covered  with  stubby 
bristles  and  the  blade  of  the  plant  is  like  a  two 
edged  sword.  The  men  who  work  in  the  pine- 
apple fields  wear  mittens,  or  gloves  to  resist 
the  onslaughts  of  the  pineapple  spear.  Yes  it's 
a  real  cactus,  but  the  most  interesting  species 
of  them  all.  There  is  another  wild  cactus  which 
bears  an  edible  fruit,  too,  but  the  pineapple 
cactus  has  all  others  beat  for  real  food  value. 

There  is  one  unique  feature  in  connection 
with  the  cultivation  of  pineapples  here  that  oc- 
casions considerable  comment  when  it  is  first 
observed  l)y  visitors.       The  growers  in  some 


214 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


instances  "paper"  their  fields.  EoUs  of  paper 
are  s])read  over  tlie  fields,  holes  cnt  in  it  to  let 
the  h'dhy  j^ineapple  plants  through  and  by  that 
means  the  pernicions  forms  of  ve^'etation  are 
smothered  ont.  It's  a  great  idea,  isn't  it  ?  When 
the  naughty  plants  and  the  bugs  get  entirely  the 
best  of  old  Mr.  "Man"  they  are  going  some.  In 
this  country  a  happy  comparison  is  frequently 


A    PINEAPPLE    FIELD 

This  is  on  the  top  of  a  mountain  of  lava;  time  having 
melted  it  into  a  soil  fit  to  produce  large  quantities  of 
one  of  the  most  delicious  fruits  that  nature  has  put 
on  her  versatile  menu. 


made  when  the  native  says  to  his  girl  disport- 
ing her  new  grass  skirt:  "It  fits  like  tlie  ])a- 
])er  on  dad's  pineapple  patch." 

Some  rather  steep  inclines  are  utilized  in 
pineai)ple  growing.  Wherever  the  soil  is  right 
l)inea])ples  are  ])lanted  no  difference  how  steep 
the  incline  of  the  ])atch.  They  tell  the  story  of 
one  Japanese   meeting   another,   the   latter   all 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  215 

loi'ii  and  ci-ippk'd,  and  when  in(|iiiry  was  made 
!)>•  Ja})  No.  1  as  to  the  cause  of  Jap  Xo.  2's 
(lilai)idated  condition,  Jap  No.  2  admitted  tliat 
lie  had  fallen  off  his  ))inea])))le  ])atcli,  and  Jie 
staled  further  that  that  was  the  iliii-d  time  he 
had  "falleu  off  that  summer." 

The  Hawaiian  PineaDule  Co.  took  the  press 
deleg'ates  out  to  their  great  cannery,  the  largest 
in  the  world,  showed  us  all  through,  fed  us  on 
pineap])le  until  it  ran  out  of  our  ears,  then  top- 
ped off  with  a  fine  lunclieon  in  their  great  din- 
ing room  wliicli  is  run  in  connection  with  the 
cannery  works,  for  the  acconnnodation  of  the 
workers,  almost  all  of  whom  are  Japanese  and 
Chinese.  The  canning  process  is  interesting. 
Not  a  "smell"  of  the  pineapple  is  wasted,  or 
not  very  many  "smells"  anyway.  They  are 
peeled,  cored,  centered,  scraped,  squeezed,  and 
in  several  ways  treated  "rough."  We  saw  the 
whole  process  from  the  picking  of  the  fruit  in 
fields  to  the  boxing  of  the  canned  goods  in  the 
cannery.  Tlie  pineapples  are  fed  into  the  can- 
ning machinery  whole  and  they  don't  stop  un- 
til they  are  solidly  under  lock  and  key  in  half 
pound,  |)Ound,  and  various  other  sized  tins. 

The  Sugar  Plantations 

Also,  we  spent  a  half  day  studying  the 
Hawaiian  Sugar  Industry,  as  the  guests  of  the 
Hawaiian  Sugar  Planter's  Association.  Here 
we  drove  through  the  cane  fields  and  saw  them 
strip  the  cane  by  the  burning  process.  That  is 
the  sim]ilest  system  yet.  They  set  fire  to  the 
field  and  let  it  burn.  The  fire  kills  off  the  in- 
sects, burns  the  loose  leaves  and  injures  the 
cane  none.  At  the  mill  we  saw  the  cane  dumped, 
from  the  little  cars  that  haul  it  in  from  the 
fields,  onto  a  conveyor  and  in  it  goes  never  stop- 
ing  until  it  is  poured  out  in  the  form  of  brown, 


216  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

unrefined  sugar  into  sacks,  read}^  to  be  shipped 
to  the  refinery. 

The  plantation  we  visited  was  the  Oahn 
Plantation,  one  of  some  forty-five  on  the  Ha- 
waiian islands.  The  average  yield  of  these 
plantations  annually  is  about  600,000  tons 
of  sug-ar,  enough  to  make  a  whole  lot  of  taffy. 
What  say  you?  The  crop  on  the  Hawaiian  is- 
lands is  about  an  eighteen  months  crop.  That 
means  that  there  are  always  three  crops  in  the 
ground  in  process  of  development;  the  crop  be- 
ing harvested,  the  cro])  Ijeing  planted  and  the 
crop  being  cultivated.  This  keeps  the  labor  em- 
i)loyed  all  the  while. 

The  great  complaint  here  now  is  shortage  of 
labor.  Because  of  the  shortage  of  labor  the 
cane  is  not  being  harvested  as  rapidly  as  it 
si]ould.  If  it  is  not  harvested  at  the  right 
time,  it  depreciates  some,  and  there  is  the  dou- 
ble loss  of  both  sugar  yield  and  idle  acreage. 
Efforts  are  being  made  now  to  get  more  labor 
to  the  islands.  More  oriental  labor  is  what  the 
planters  want,  for  the  orientals  are  the  best 
possible  kind  of  labor  for  this  work. 

After  the  inspection  of  the  plantation  and 
tlie  mill  the  delegates  were  taken  to  the  home 
of  the  plantation  for  luncheon.  The  luncheon 
was  served  on  a  canopied  portion  of  the  beau- 
tiful lawn.  The  manager's  residence  is  a  state- 
ly home  in  the  midst  of  the  plantation  with 
great  tropical  trees  and  plants  immediately 
surrounding  the  building.  The  scene  here  was 
another  of  those  strangely  different  ones;  an 
ocean  of  cane  field,  with  a  break  in  the  cen- 
ter permitting  the  building  of  a  beautiful  home 
and  with  tropical  surroundings  of  extravagant 
l)eauty  suggestive  of  story  pictures  rather  than 
of  a  reality.  But  it  was  real.  We  were  there 
and  we  ate  "hearty"  and  after  that  we  lis- 


WITH    WORLD'S    PRESS    CONGRESS 


217 


ti'iK'd    to    a    Few    addresses    and    then    we    re- 
turned by  automobile  and  ti'ain   to  Honolulu. 

The  Spirit  of  Hawaii 

There  was  an  evenino-  s])ent  in  Memorial 
Park,  Waikiki,  while  the  Hawaiian  I^itiiotic 
Societies  i)resented  "The  Spirit  of  Hawaii,  Past 
and  Pres(Mit"  to  the  AVorld  Press  Delegates. 
The  presentation  was  outdoors,  under  the  big 
trees  of  the  park,  the  andience  facing  the  sea 
while  between  them  and  the   sea  the  players 


HULA   HULA   DANCERS 

appeared  in  their  portrayal  of  ancient  Hawaiian 
life  and  customs,  music,  dances,  etc. 

The  spectacle  was  a  wonderful  one.  There 
were  weird  ceremonies  in  which  old  men  and 
women,  native  Hawaiians  appeared,  illustrat- 
ing the  customs  of  long  ago.  Dancers  in  grass 
skirts  presented  the  hula  hula  in  a  most  strik- 
ing manner.  There  were  j^laintive  incanta- 
tions in  which  old  women  chanted  in  heart-tear- 
ing tones   some   tragic   story  of  long-time-ago 


218  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Hawaiian  history.  The  dark  figures  moved  in 
and  ont  from  amoug'  the  night  wrapped  trees, 
making  a  ghostlike  api)earance.  The  sweetest 
of  all  the  Hawaiian  singers  sang  in  concert  and 
in  solos.  There  were  reproductions  of  cere- 
monies in  which  royalty,  |)resumably  appeared, 
and  the  occupations  of  the  ancient  Hawaiians 
were  illustrated  in  tableau. 

Finally,  an  epochal  period  in  Hawaiian  his- 
tory was  shown  by  a  select  group  of  the  Ha- 
waiians. Legend  has  it  that  the  first  people 
from  the  outside  world  to  reach  the  Hawaiian 
islands  were  some  Spaniards.  Their  vessel  was 
wrecked  near  one  of  the  islands  and  two  young 
people,  a  brother  and  sister,  alone  reached 
shore.  They  were  received  kindly  by  the  na- 
tives, were  taken  into  the  family  of  one  of  the 
chiefs  and  eventually  became  a  part  of  the  roy- 
alty. The  landing  of  this  brother  and  sister  on 
the  island  in  the  throes  of  physical  exhaustion, 
their  discovery  by  two  little  Hawaiian  children, 
their  kindly  reception  by  the  older  [teople  of  the 
tribes,  all  was  shown  in  a  grapic  manner. 

There  came  next  the  reproduction  of  the 
scene  when  Kamehameha  I  made  that  great  ad- 
vanced step  in  methods  of  conquest  and  offic- 
ially proclaimed  the  entirely  new  law  that 
henceforth  in  battle  the  old  men  and  the  women 
and  children  should  be  spared.  He  had  dis- 
covered a  law  in  economics  that  had  been  over- 
looked by  previous  rulers  of  the  tribes  of  the 
Hawaiians,  for  it  had  been  their  custom  in  con- 
(juest  to  spare  none,  exce])ting  the  fairest  dam- 
sels. 

The  finale  of  the  evening  was  a  sea  scene 
in  which  a  fleet  of  Hawaiian  canoes  passed  in 
review  close  to  the  AVaikiki  shore,  the  canoes 
and  occupants  showing  as  dim  shadows  under 


WITH    WOliLirS    rUESS   CONGRESS  219 

llic  |inl('  li^lils  ol'  llic  pi'liiiit  i\-('  t<)|-<'li('s  cai'- 
I'icd  Ity  Hie  I [awaiiniis  who  inaiiiKMl  llic  boats. 
This   was    ati    cveiiiiig    in    "ohl    Hawaii,"    suru 

(MlOllgh. 


220  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXVII. 
A  Rotary  Meeting 

Honolulu,   October   31,    1921 

They  have  all  kinds  of  clubs  in  Hawaii,  all 
kinds  of  organizations.  In  Honolulu  they  have 
a  wonderfully  active  Ad  Club  and  that  organ- 
ization entertained  the  World  Press  Delegates 
at  an  alleged  luncheon  one  da^^  at  the  Outrigger 
Club  House.  We  say  ' '  alleged ' '  luncheon,  ad- 
visedly. The  members  of  the  club  issued  a 
bulletin  shortly  after  the  event  fixing  a  stain  of 
guilt  ui)on  the  shoulders  of  a  "Greek"  caterer 
whom  they  charged  Avith  having  "hornswog- 
gled"  them.  It  was  alleged  that  he  had  failed 
miserably  on  the  occasion  of  the  above  men- 
tioned luncheon  in  his  contract  to  fill  the 
World's  Press  delegates  full  of  certain  defin- 
itely specified  Hawaiian  edibles,  each  to  meas- 
ure u])  to  a  well  understood  standard  of  quality. 
As  will  be  surmised  from  the  above,  the  mem- 
bers of  the  "Ad  Club"  feel  that  they  didn't  get 
their  money's  worth.  As  for  us,  the  visitors, 
we  got  more  than  our  money's  worth,  but  we 
want  to  be  just  as  amiable  as  possible  so  we 
are  going  to  stand  by  the  Ad  Club  in  any  of 
their  ]:>ronouncements.  If  they  want  us  to  kick, 
we  will  kick.  The  Ad  Club  put  on  a  nice  pro- 
gram, plenty  of  good  music,  good  speeches,  good 
stunts,  good  time,  goodbye! 

I  attended  two  Rotary  Club  meetings.  The 
Rotarians  in  Honolulu  are  very  like  the  Rotar- 
ians  in  the  cities  of  our  home  country.  The^^ 
are  "peppy."  Hugh  Powell  of  Coffeyville, 
Kansas,  and  I  count  ourselves  lucky  in  that  we 
happened  to  attend  the  regular  meeting  of  the 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  221 

ilunoliilii  ivolary  Club  at  iiuoii,  October  tlie  27tli. 
The  speaker  on  that  date  was  V.  S.  McClatchy, 
editor  of  "The  Bee,"  Sacramento,  California. 

Mr,  McChitchy  spoke  on  the  race  question 
and  wliat  he  didn't  say  about  tlie  Ja])  and  the 
"Yelhnv  Peril"  isn't  worth  mentioning.  Lie 
Jiad  facts  and  fig'ures  to  stagger  the  natives,  in 
which  he  showed  that  at  the  present  rate  of 
multiplication  it  would  only  be  b.  few  short 
years  before  the  Japs  would  out  number  the 
whites  in  our  western  country  and  completely 
absorb  everything,  if  sometliing  isn't  done  to 
check  their  progress,  numerically  and  acquis- 
itively. Mr.  McClatchy  affirms  that  the  Japs 
are  non-assimilable;  that  they  are  devoted  to 
their  own  form  of  government  and  loyal  to  the 
emperor,  first,  last  and  forever;  that  Japan  as 
a  part  of  her  "national  policy  to  preserve  the 
solidarity  of  the  race,  does  not  permit  the  as- 
similation of  her  citizens  by  other  nations."  The 
Sacramento  editor  urges  the  "absolute  of  exclu- 
sion" of  all  Japanese  immigration  into  the 
United  States  or  any  of  its  possessions,  in  the 
future.  He  makes  no  exceptions.  He  bars  them 
all. 

In  this  address  the  speaker  gave  figures 
concerning  the  birth  rate  of  the  Japanese  in 
California  which  indicate  that  they  are  multi- 
plying about  three  times  as  fast  as  the  whites. 
That  is  one  of  the  "yellow  perils;"  they  bear 
more  fruit  than  we  do;  they  are  more  thrifty 
in  the  ])ropagation  of  human  kind,  and  the  Sac- 
ramento man  doesn't  like  the  kind.  Honolulu 
evidence  sort  of  supports  Mr.  McClatchy 's 
testimony  as  to  the  child  bearing  proclivities 
of  the  Japanese.  Everywhere  we  go,  on  the 
streets,  or  in  the  parks,  there  are  flocks  of  Jap 
children.  They  hatch  easily.  The  speaker 
called  rather  disturbing  attention,  also,  to  the 


222  A   TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

way  the  Japanese  have  of  taking  economic  ad- 
vantages whenever  and  wherever  they  can.  They 
are  absorbing  a  great  deal  of  California  land; 
tliey  control  the  fisheries  in  Hawaii;  they  are 
seeking  to  control  the  cane  and  ihe  pineapple 
plantations  of  Hawaii.  But  the  most  comi)ell- 
ing  point  that  the  speaker  emphasized  was  the 
thonglit  that  the  race  is  an  alien  race;  an  im- 
possible race.  He  feels  that  we  are  inherently 
different;  that  ages  of  devotion  to  different 
customs,  religions,  manners,  etc.,  have  made  ns 
so  unchangeably  antagonistic  that  we  can't  be 
reconciled.  We  are  hopelessly  apart;  there  is 
no  use  of  trying  to  get  together.  Tliose  are  Mr. 
McClatchy's  sentiments  and  he  spoke  them 
plainly  in  a  territory  in  which  the  population  is 
40%  Japanese  and  there  was  no  attempt  made 
to  kee]i  his  sentiments  secret.  The  address  was 
pul)lished  in  full  in  the  evening  jjaper  on  the 
date  that  it  was  delivered.  Of  course  there  was 
discussion.  There  was  no  discussion  at  this 
Rotary  meeting  but  the  newspapers  took  it  up; 
private  citizens  took  it  u]);  preachers  and  teach- 
ers took  it  u]);  tlie  Hawaiian  l^orn  Ja]ianese  took 
it  up. 

Briefly,  the  answer  is:  the  Japanese  are  still 
more  primitive  than  we  are.  The  friend  of  the 
Japanese  claims  that  as  the  Ja])  takes  on  the 
civilization  of  tlie  Occident  he  becomes  more 
and  more  like  the  people  who  forced  him  to 
open  the  doors  to  the  "Hermit  Kingdom,"  of 
only  a  little  over  a  half  a  century  ago,  and  let 
the  light  in,  As  he  takes  on  western  culture  he 
becomes  westernized.  As  it  costs  more  to  keep 
children  and  educate  them,  there  will  be  a  less 
number  born.  When  children  are  cheap,  they 
are  plentiful;  when  they  become  more  expen- 
sive they  will  become  less  i)lentiful,  even  among 
the  Japanese. 


WITFI   WORLDS   PRESS   CONGRESS  223 

The  iiiimi.nrniil  Japanese  Itcat  as  (Uil  oco- 
rioiiiicallN'.  '1'1k'\'  li\e  on  nothing',  of  near  iiotli- 
iiiii,-,  ill  this  coiuitry,  even  as  tliey  did  in  Iheir 
native  coiintrN.  Tlie  second  generation  be- 
comes Aiiiei-icanized  to  the  extent  of  wanting 
to  do  like  and  live  like  his  schoolmates  do  in 
the  public  scliocL  'They  want  to  go  to  shows, 
eat  ice  cream  cones,  phiy  base  hall,  sing  in  the 
choir,  ri(k'  on  the  merry-go-ronn(L  It  is  all  a 
matter  of  adjustment,  the  friend  of  tlie  Hawai- 
ian Ja})  says,  and  tlie  adjustment  will  take  care 
of  itself  as  the  influence  of  our  enforced  school 
training  works  out  in  the  daily  life  of  the  de- 
velo])in<!,'  oriental. 

The  plea  of  the  Hawaiian  l)orn  Japanese  is 
that  if  they  are  not  permitted  to  live  in  Hawaii 
there  is  no  place  left  in  the  world  for  them  to 
live  in  comfort,  foi*  they  have  been  trained 
away  from  Japan.  To  go  back  to  Japan  and 
assume  their  native  station  there  means  serf- 
dom. The  culture  of  American  institutions  has 
enlarged  their  souls  to  the  ])oinl  where  the 
coolie  life  of  the  parent  country  would  crush 
them. 

In  writing  in  the  Honolulu  Advertiser  Kengi 
Hamada,  a  Hawaiian  l)orn  Japanese  said  in 
part,  as  follows: 

"I  am  here  to  teH  Mr.  McClatchy.  or  any- 
one else  for  that  matter,  that  aU  this  talk 
about  racial  characteristics,  heridity  and  re- 
ligion is  tommyrot.  He  does  not  know  the 
Hawaiian  born  Japanese.  Turn  the  lining  of 
the  heart  of  the  latter  inside  out  and  you  will 
find  out  the  truth.  What  is  racial  character- 
istics, what  is  heridity,  what  is  religion  when 
compared  to  the  impregnable  colossos  of 
American  environment  and  ,educa(tion?  Do- 
you  think  so  lightly  of  the  vast  influence  of 
your  own  civilzation  as  to  yield  for  a  moment 
to  the  belief  that  it  cannot  surmount  the  ob- 
stacles of  an  alien  civilization?  Study  the 
psychology  of  the  Hawaiian-born  Japanese,  his 


224  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

mental  and  moral  attitude,  his  inclinations,  his 
yearnings,  his  ambitions,  his  sense  of  loyalty, 
aye,  and  his  sense  of  justice,  and  you  will  find 
that  he  is  an  American  to  the  core.  You  will 
find  that  he  cannot  and  will  not  be  a  Japanese 
in  the  true  sense  of  the  word." 

Well,  there  you  liave  it.  There  is  room  for 
argument  and  more  argument.  And,  it  is  not 
a  one  sided  question  by  any  means.  Anti-Jap- 
anese leaders  frequently  ask:  "What  would 
Japan  do  to  immigrants  who  threatened  to  over- 
run her  the  way  the  Japanese  threaten  to  over- 
run us?" 

There  is  only  one  answer.  Japan  wouldn't 
stand  for  it. 

On  the  other  hand,  Japan  never  invited  oc- 
cidental labor  over  into  her  domains  to  do  her 
menial  work  as  we  invited  the  orientals  over 
into  our  country  to  do  work  that  our  own  peo- 
ple will  not  do.  Japan  never  sought  occidental 
labor  in  an  effort  to  get  a  cheaper  labor  product 
than  she  was  able  to  get  from  her  own  people. 
We,  for  many  years,  invited  cheap  labor  to  this 
country.  We  encouraged  laborers  to  come.  The 
Japanese  and  the  Chinese  came  from  the  Pa- 
cific side  of  our  domains;  the  central  and  south- 
ern Euro]3eans  from  the  Atlantic  side.  We  have 
not  been  blameless.  Now  it's  up  to  us  to  be 
square  with  the  people  whom  we  invited  "to 
our  party." 

Api)arently  they  don't  let  the  race  question 
bother  them  very  much  in  Hawaii.  They  are 
all  here  together;  living  in  comparative  peace 
and  plenty.  They  accept  the  situation  as  it 
is.  They  are  so  much  better  as  they  are  than 
they  might  be  tliat  they  are  glad  to  make  the 
best  of  their  good  thing.  At  an  exhibition  which 
we  witnessed  just  Thursday  of  last  week  at  the 
Roval  school  on  Emma  Street  several  thousand 
children  particii)ated  and  there  were  few  white 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  225 

faces  to  be  seen  in  tlic  wliole  vast  asseml)lage. 
Tliero  \v(M'e  some  of  inany  colors  tliougli  and 
tlic  exiiihitioii  demonstrated  conclnsively  that 
the  Hawaiian  o-overnment  is  making  a  si)lendid- 
ly  effective  effort  to  Americanize  the  different 
nationalities  tliat  are  grouped  in  the  schools  of 


GOVERNOR   WALLACE    R.    FARRINGTON    (Center) 

His  companions  are  members  of  the  Australian  delega- 
tion to  the  Congress.  Australia  and  New  Zealand  were 
represented  by  an  enthusiastic  group  of  men  and  women. 

the  territory.  The  teachers  like  the  orientals. 
They  find  them  bright,  responsive.  They  enter 
into  all  the  school  activities  with  a  devoted 
abandon  that  wins  the  respect  and  admiration 
of  their  teachers. 

As  for  us,  first  let's  remember  that  the  or- 
ientals are  human  beings;  emanating  from  the 


226  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

same  ori.^inal  source  as  we.  They  came  into 
the  world  in  the  same  manner  that  we  entered; 
they  g'o  out  in  the  same  way.  They  eat  and 
drink  and  have  pain  and  pleasure.  We  do  no 
less,  no  more.  But,  we  are  different  breeds. 
There  are  certain  racial  characteristics  that 
separate  us.  Therefore,  it  is  necessary  that  we 
draw  a  reasonable  line  of  demarkation  between 
as.  We  can't  be  a  dumping-  ground  for  a  sur- 
plus population  from  any  part  of  the  earth 
without  sacrificing  some  of  ourselves,  and  if 
the  imported  product  curdles  in  the  melting  pot, 
then  it  will  be  best  not  to  mix.  The  yellow  and 
the  white  blend  into  a  sour  mixture,  it  is  claim- 
ed. That  being  the  case  the  issue  does  present 
itself  in  a  different  light.  It  is  necessary  that 
we  handle  this  particular  phase  of  the  race 
problem  in  a  manner  different  from  the  way  it 
is  handled  where  the  mixtures  do  not  result  in 
a  pernicious  coagulation. 

It  is  the  duty  of  all  good  citizens  to  do  all 
they  can  to  see  that  we  up  build  our  stock 
ratiier  than  down  build  it.  If  the  yellow  and 
the  white  races  need  to  be  kept  from  mixing 
let's  do  it  in  an  amiable  manner;  let's  take  the 
situation  philosophically,  agree  upon  our  do- 
mains and  fully  respect  each  other's  rights  and 
deal  in  a  manner  entirely  fair  to  those  who  are 
innocently  enough  somewhat  awkwardly  situ- 
ated today. 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  227 


LETTER  XXX^^II. 
The  Yellow  Jacket 

Honolulu,  October  31,   1921 

The  most  spectaciihir  stage  production  that 
the  World's  Press  delegates  have  witnessed 
while  in  the  Hawaiian  islands  was  shown  to  us 
Friday  evening,  the  28th,  in  Mission  Memorial 
Hall.  The  Chinese  community  of  the  Hawaiian 
islands  entertained  the  delegates  with  a  pre- 
sentation of  the  comedy,  "The  Yellow  Jacket," 
put  on  by  the  Chinese  Student's  Alliance  of 
the  islands. 

We  hardly  expect  much  comedy  from  Chin- 
ese but  here  in  this  play  we  discovered  that 
there  is  comedy  in  them.  It  is  safe  to  say  that 
none  of  the.  delegates  who  saw  this  play  were  in 
the  least  disappointed  in  it  as  an  entertainment, 
and  in  addition  to  that  they  had  the  conclusive 
evidence  that  the  Chinese  can  be  westernized 
even  to  the  extent  of  teaching  them  to  interpret 
and  appreciate  the  more  delicate  qualities  of 
western  humor. 

"The  Yellow  Jacket"  is  cast  for  Chinese 
characters,  but  it  was  written  by  George  Hazle- 
ton  and  Harry  Benrimo.  Prior  to  the  presenta- 
tion of  the  play  a  tall,  fine  looking  Chinaman, 
in  dress  suit  and  with  a  most  radiant  smile  on 
his  face  took  the  platform  long  enough  to  wel- 
come the  delegates  for  the  Chinese  Community. 
This  gentleman  was  Mr.  William  F.  K.  Yap 
and  in  opening  his  brief  address  he  said: 

"The  Chinese  here  realize  the  importance 
and  far-reaching  effect  of  your  work  relative 
to  the  peace  of  the  world  and  to  the  far  east, 
and  in  appreciation  of  this  fact  we  wish  to  en- 


228  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


tertain  you  tonight  by  presenting  a  famous 
play.  The  cast  is  composed  of  Chinese  young 
men  and  women,  born  and  brought  up  here, 
all  of  whom  are  good  American  citizens.  They 
have  spared  neither  time  nor  effort  in  rehears- 
ing this  play,  and  are  glad  to  be  given  the 
opportunity    of    presenting    it    to    you." 

We  were  glad  of  the  opportunity  to  witness 
the  play,  too,  and  just  to  give  our  readers  an 
idea  of  the  characters  of  the  play  we  intend  to 
here  ])resent  the  cast  in  the  order  of  their  in- 
troduction to  us  upon  the  stage: 

Property  Man James  Chun 

Chorus Jen  Fui  Moo 

Wu  Sin  Yin  (Great  Sound  Language)  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Province__Charles   T.   T.Yap 
Due   Jung  Fah    (Fuschia   Flower),   second 

wife    of   Wu    Sin    Yin Bertha    Ing 

Tso    (Fancy    Beauty)    maid    to    Due    Jung 

Fah Lucy  Seong 

Tai  Fah  Min   (Great  Painted  Face),  father 

of  Due  Jung   Fah Hen   Kong  Ing 

Assistant  Property  Men Ah  Hung  Ho 

James    Zane,    Yin    Fo    Mark,    Joseph    Ting 
Chee    Moo    (Kind    Mother)     first    wife    of 

Wu    Sin    Yin Ah    Hee    Young 

Suey  Sin  Fah    (Lily  Flower),  wife  of  Lee 
Sin  and  maid  for  the  first  wife,  Chee 

Moo    Mary    Li 

Lee  Sin    (First   Farmer) Raphael  A.   C.  Ai 

Ling  Won    (Spirit) Ken    Kiu    Liu 

Wu   Hoo  Git     (Young    Hero    of    the    Wu 

Family)    Lawrence   Lit    Lau 

Wu  Fah  Din    (Daffodil) Richard   C.   Tong 

Yin  Suey  Gong   (Purveyor  of  Hearts) 

Kong   Fat   Chun 

See  Quoe  Fah    (Four  Season  Flower) 

Florence  Chock 

Mow    Dan    Fah    (Peony)    Hazel    Dang 

Kong  Soo  Kow    (Hydrangea) Jannie   Luke 

Chow   Wan    (Autumn   Cloud) Ngan    Sin   Loo 

Moy   Fah    Loy    (Plum    Blossom)    daughter 

Tai   Char  Shoong Beatrice    Chong 

See  Noi    (Nurse)    in  charge  of  Plum   Blos- 
som     Ruth    L.    T.    Yap 

Tai  Char  Shoong   (Purveyor  of  Tea  to  the 

Emperor)     , Yuk    Jay 

The  Widow  Ching Loi  Tsin   Chong 

Maid    Rebecca    Young 


WITH   WORLD'S    PRESS   CONGRESS  229 


Mauii  Giiug   (Blind  Man) Daniel  K.  Low 

Git    Hok    Gar    (Philosopher    and    Scholar) 

Wallace  K.  Y.  Lee 

Ley  Gong    (God   of  Thunder) Robert  Kahea 

Kom    Loi    (Spider) Edward    H.    Leong 

Nung    Fu    (Humble    Farmer) __ Jen    Fong    Moo 
The   Scene   Represents   the   Stage  of  a   Chinese 

Theatre 
Music  by  Quon  Lok  Hin  Society 

Stage    decorated    by    Henry    Inn 

Furniture  and  decorations  loaned  bij- 
Fong  Inn  Co. 

Costumes  are  those  used  originally  by  the 
Chinese  theatrical  company  known  as  Han  Kow 
Sing,  which  played  at  the  old  Aala  Theater  un- 
til it  disbanded  several  years  ago. 

Producing   ("oniniittee 

Jen   Fui  Moo,   Chairman  James    Chun 

Mary    L.    S.    Li  Hen   Kong  Ing 

Lawrence   Lit   Lau  Peter  Chang 

Staff 

Peter  Chang Business   Manager 

Daniel  K.  Low Assistant  Business  Manager 

Yo   Ken   Mau    Publicity 

Hen    Kong    Ing Stage    Manager 

Linn  Dtih Lights 

Eleanor  Moo Prompter 

Does  not  that  sound  Chinese  enough  for 
anyone  seeking  more  orientalism?  It  was  Chin- 
ese in  appearance  and  setting  only.  The  Eng- 
lish language  was  used,  and  as  above  mentioned 
the  interpretation  was  English  in  that  there 
was  absolutely  nothing  obscure  about  the  pro- 
duction. Its  demand  for  artistic  acting  was 
met  in  full  by  these  young  Chinese  people  of  the 
Hawaiian  islands.  They  seemed  to  enter  into 
the  spirit  of  the  piece  with  the  fullest  possible 
understanding  of  the  demands  of  the  comedy. 

The  "property  man,"  James  Chun,  for  ex- 
ample, never  in  three  long  scenes  changed  the 
expression  of  his  face  from  that  of  a  disgust- 
ingly bored  manipulator  of  stage  accessories. 
The  properties  were  a  part  of  the  open  stage 


230  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

equipment  and  it  was  his  professional  duty  to 
build  mountains  and  bridges,  create  storms, 
represent  trees,  provide  the  utensils  for  trag- 
edies, assist  tlie  departing  spirits  to  make  tlieir 
get  away  by  means  of  ladders,  linger  carelessly 
about  while  kings  and  queens  stalked  the  stage 
in  regal  grandeur  and  complacently  ])rovide  the 
long  slim  dagger  with  which  a  cruel  old  man  was 
to  remove  an  heir  a]:)]:»arent  from  any  apparent 
chance  of  gaining  a  kingdom. 

Jim  Chung  took  it  all  as  a  matter  of  course. 
He  was  unmoved  by  the  dazzling  beauty  of 
"Moy  Fall  Loy."  He  nonchalently  held  the 
paper  flower  that  she  might  in  tense  ecstasy 
breathe  in  its  fragrance  and  when  she  had 
breathed  and  sighed,  and  sighed  again  he  toss- 
ed the  paper  "gew  gaw"  carelessly  into  the 
property  trunk  and  proceeded  then  to  dig  from 
the  depths  of  the  same  enclosure  the  bag  of  con- 
fetti that  was  to  form  the  basis  of  a  rapidly  ap- 
proaching snow  storm. 

And  the  chorus,  "Jen  Fui  Moo,"  that  man 
of  a  thousand  conceits  and  as  many  humble 
apologies  to  the  "illustrious"  audience.  Were 
not  his  egotisms,  his  abnegations,  his  extrava- 
gances, his  grotesque  dignities  sublimely  ridic- 
ulous. "I  bow,  I  bow,  I  bow,"  he  said  often 
and  as  often  he  bowed  low  and  long,  and  craved 
a  thousand  pardons,  as  he  told  of  what  his 
"brothers  of  the  pear  tree  garden"  were  pre- 
|)aring  for  the  "illustrious"  guests  of  the  ev- 
ening. 

And  then  there  was  "Wu  Sin  Yin,"  mighty 
governor  of  the  province  who  was  bothered 
with  an  inconvenient  first  wife,  whom  he  wished 
removed,  but  he  did  not  want  her  i-emoved  in 
an  "uncouth"  manner;  he  wanted  the  deed 
done  gentlv  and  delicately  and  so  it  was  willed 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  231 

that  Uvv  brains  should  be  Ijattercd  out,  at  some 
convenient  time  in  a  not  too  public  place. 

And  "Tai  Fah  ]\[in,"  the  father  of  the  g-ov- 
ernor'8  second  wife;  he  lent  himself  willingly 
to  tlie  governor's  plans  for  dis])osing  of  the 
inconvenient  first  wife  and  encouraged  him,  in 
liis  moments  of  doubt,  as  to  the  practicability 
of  tlie  murder  plan  by  calling  attention  to  the 
glories  of  the  spectacle  that  conld  be  made  "at 
the  funeral  and  thronghout  the  attending  cere- 
monies." It  had  been  a  long  time  since  they 
had  had  a  "royal  funeral;"  the  people  of  the 
province  were  "hungry  for  a  funeral;"  how 
proud  Chee  Moo's  family,  the  parents  and  rela- 
tives of  the  first  wife,  would  be  when  they  saw 
the  great  funeral  procession  and  realized  that 
it  was  one  of  their  own  flesh  and  blood  who 
was  being  buried  in  all  such  regal  pomp. 

It  was  so  willed.  "Chee  Moo"  was  disposed 
of  duly,  but  her  little  son  still  lived.  And  it 
was  he,  "Wu  Hoo  Git"  who  fought  his  way 
through  many  bewildering  vicissitudes  to  the 
eventual  high  honor  of  coming  into  his  own 
and  donning  the  "Yellow  Jacket."  Certainly 
his  path  was  not  a  rose  bordered  one;  he  had  a 
usurper  to  overcome;  and  he  had  to  safely  side 
steji  the  pitfalls  that  lie  in  the  paths  of  all 
young  men.  There  was  wine,  women  and  song, 
and  plenty  of  each  and  all,  but,  first  in  the 
background,  yet  drawing  nearer  and  nearer  all 
the  while  was  the  beautiful,  and  chaste,  and 
svm]iathetic  and  dutiful  "Mov  Fah  Lov" 
(Plum  Blossom.)  She  saved  "Wu  Hoo  Git," 
for  his  ijeople  and  for  herself. 

Ah,  this  was  a  beautiful  play;  staged  in  all 
the  grandeur  of  a  great  Broadway  success  and 
offering  in  its  cast  of  characters  a  Avhole  host 
of  Chinese  performers  entirely  fit  for  Broad- 
way recognition.       This   contribution   of    the 


232  A  TRIP   TO   THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

Chinese  community  to  the  entertainment  of  the 
World's  Press  delegates  was  one  of  the  most 
interesting-  of  the  many  good  things  that  we  saw 
and  heard. 

The  Chinese  of  the  Hawaiian  islands  are 
held  in  rather  higher  favor  than  the  Japanese. 
They  are  credited  with  being  more  reliable; 
more  easily  Americanized;  more  nearly  assim- 
ilable. There  are  many  highly  respected  Chin- 
ese men  of  affairs  on  the  islands,  doing  busi- 
ness' in  true  western  fashion.  The  American- 
ized Chinese  business  man  generally  impresses 
one  as  a  good  substantial  individual.  His  bear- 
ing is  non-obtrusive,  gently  dignified.  But,  I 
know  enough  of  the  other  side  of  it  to  be  equally 
safe  in  stating  that  there  are  some  black  sheep, 
even  among  the  Chinese.  There  are  evil  mind- 
ed Chinese;  Chinese  whose  ways  are  dark;  who 
deal  in  forbidden  opiates  and  lend  themselves 
very  handily  to  the  darker  deviltries  of  the  side 
streets.  In  other  words,  the  Chinaman,  too,  is 
both  human  and  inhuman. 

I  think  they  more  readily  surrender  their 
whole  selves  to  the  Americanizing  ])rocess  be- 
cause they  want  a  home.  Back  in  the  native 
country  there  is  no  established  government; 
all  is  chaos;  all  has  been  chaos  for  years.  The 
whole  cry  of  China;  the  appeal  of  the  Chinese 
delegates  to  the  congress  is  ''help  us."  It  is 
not  strange  that  they  take  kindly  to  the  offer- 
ings of  Christianized  America,  Thev  have 
found  a  heaven  in  Hawaii.  Why  should  they 
complain?  They  don't,  in  Hawaii.  They  like 
to  boast  of  their  x\mericanization,  most  of  them, 
and  some  of  them  do  it  with  the  unveiled  insin- 
uation that  in  their  attitude  they  are  much  truer 
to  America  than  are  the  hated  Japanese. 

I  asked  a  member  of  the  Hawaiian  legisla- 
ture, a  Half  Hawaiian,  if  there  is  any  great  dif- 


WITH   WORLDS   PRESS   CONGRESS  233 

l'(M-t'ii('(.'  between  the  Cliinese  and  Uie  Japanese. 
I  son^i>lit  to  get  his  opinion  as  to  what  we  might 
expecti  of  the  Chinese  were  they  so  dominant  in 
any  part  of  our  country  as  the  Japanese  are  in 
Hawaii.  He  tlionglit  a  wliile  and  tlien  he 
said:  "Down  in  their  liearts  I  don't  think 
there  is  much  difference  l)etween  the  Japanese 
and  the  Chinese,  A  Cliinese  child  is  the  most 
cruel  thing  I  know  of  in  the  world.  I  have 
had  a  i)ecnliarly  favorable  opportunity  to 
watch  them." 

I  know  nothing  about  the  inlierent  traits 
connnon  in  Japanese  and  Cliinese;  Imt  I  do 
know  that  we  have  had  sufficient  evidence  here 
to  convince  me  that  they  can  be  modernized; 
that  they  can  be  converted  to  the  use  of  the  au- 
tomobile, to  the  wearing  of  dress  suits,  to  the 
extravagances  of  western  culture,  to  indulgence 
in  our  sports,  to  our  many  and  varied  methods 
of  increasing  the  individual's  average  expense. 
I  have  seen  enough  of  them  here  to  know  that 
with  very  little  tutoring  they  learn  to  spend 
money  just  like  those  who  are  a  part  of  the 
"white  peril,"  for,  be  it  known  that  while  w^e 
profess  to  fear  a  "yellow  peril,"  the  Jai^anese, 
especially,  profess  to  an  equally  great  fear  of 
the  "white  peril." 


234  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXIX. 
Incidentals 

Honolulu,   November    1,    1921 

Here  we  are  at  the  threshold  of  another 
"sailing"  day  again.  Tomorrow  we  leave  these 
islands,  and  strike  for  the  shores  of  the  United 
States.  We  have  been  filled  to  overflowing 
with  eating  and  seeing  and  hearing.  What 
more  conld  we  possibly  ask  for  in  so  short  a 
while.  And  there  is  much  that  we  have  seen 
and  heard  abont  which  I  have  had  neither  the 
time  nor  the  talent  to  write. 

About  Honolulu  itself  one  might  write  many 
long  letters.  It  is  a  city  of  myriad  wonders, 
especially  to  the  untraveled,  such  as  are  many 
of  the  visitors  on  this  occasion  of  the  World's 
Press  Congress.  Here  in  this  city  is  blended 
the  east  and  the  west  in  such  a  way  as  to  sup- 
ply orientalism  and  occidentalism  in  satisfying 
quantities  to  any  and  all.  You  pay  your  mon- 
ey and  take  your  choice. 

In  the  matter  of  residences — Honolulu  has 
its  typically  Japanese  homes;  its  Chinese 
homes;  its  old  English  homes;  its  homes  fash- 
idned  after  the  plans  generally  Ifollowed  in 
southern  Europe.  It  has  its  modern  American 
homes;  its  old  Hawaiian  homes;  its  Buddhist, 
CVitholic  and  Protestant  cluirches  and  ceme- 
teries; its  Japanese  and  Chinese  shops,  into 
which  you  step  to  immediately  get  the  pungent 
odor  of  incense  and  there  comes  to  your  service 
always,  typical  orientals  who  si^eak  .I'ust  enough 
of  our  native  tongue  to  l)e  able  to  understand 
what  they  want  to  understand  and  no  more. 

And  the  children — hundreds  and  hundreds 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  235 


oL'  c'liildii'ii  who  all  look  alike  to  us.  No  cloiiljt 
to  the  CUiinese  and  tlie  Japanese  their  off- 
si)ring  are  as  different  as  our  own  little  ones 
in  appearance  and  in  deportment;  but  to  ns, 
the  far  east  "tots"  all  look  alike — as  like  as  two 
])eas  in  a  pod. 

The  Ja})anese  and  the  Filipinos  seem  to  be 
the  servants  here.  In  our  hotel,  the  "Moana," 
the  service  is  entirely  Japanese  and  it  is  good 
service.  The  bedroom  "girls"  are  Japanese 
boys.  You  call  for  service  from  your  room  and 
a  Japanese  boy  answers  the  call;  understands 
enough  to  do  yonr  liidding  and  does  it  promptly 
and  well.  In  the  dining  room  the  "waitresses" 
are  all  Japanese  boys;  the  head  "waitress"  is 
a  Japanese  man.  He  receives  you  with  a  smile 
and  directs  you  to  your  seat  with  all  the  grace 
necessary  for  your  comfort.  The  waiters  are 
not  very  communicative.  I  confess  to  a  cer- 
tain feeling  of  awe  in  their  presence.  I  some- 
times feel  that  perhaps  some  of  them  hold  us  in, 
at  least  mild  contempt;  but  they  take  the  tips 
just  the  same.  And  as  for  that  attitude  of  con- 
tempt— I  have  never  felt  it  so  much  since  as 
T  did  once  on  a  vessel  that  had  for  its  state 
room  attendants  a  crew  of  English  men-serv- 
ants. I  think  that  in  that  instance  the  con- 
tempt was  prompted  by  the  fact  that  we  treated 
them  too  nearly  as  equals.  They  had  been  ac- 
customed to  tile  aristocracy  of  England  and 
they  needed  to  be  steadfastly  ignored.  Our  un- 
couth manners  together  with  a  too  familiar  at- 
titude toward  them  branded  us  as  provincials 
in  their  eyes,  at  any  rate  those  English  "cham- 
bermen"  made  us  feel  very  like  inferior  be- 
ings while  we  were  in  their  presence. 

But  I  shall  tell  you  how  I  fell  into  the  good 
graces  of  the  Japanese  boys  in  the  Moana  din- 
ing room.     For  several  days  I  was  but  as  one 


236  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

of  the  many.  I  came  and  went  to  the  meals, 
received  the  conrteous,  bnt  not  enthusiastic  at- 
tention of  tlie  Jap  boys  in  tlie  dining  room. 
They  were  stoical.  I  hardly  knew  if  they  could 
say  more  than  "yes"  and  no"  and  brokenly 
mumble  the  titles  of  the  offerings  on  the  menu 
cards.  They  looked  upon  me  I  assumed  with 
an  interest  that  was  prompted  solely  by  their 
mental  speculations  as  to  how  large  a  tip  they 
might  expect  from  me.    There  came  a  change. 

In  connection  with  the  World's  Press  Con- 
gress meetings  there  were  the  Pan-Pacific 
Press  meetings  and  on  the  first  day  of  the  Pan- 
Pacific  meetings  the  World  Press  delegates 
were  to  be  entertained  at  the  noon  hour  b}"  res- 
idents of  Honolulu  who  received  their  guests 
into  their  homes,  or  took  them  to  a  hotel,  or  to 
a  clul)  for  entertainment.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Regin- 
ald Ortcuff,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  and  this  writer 
fell  into  the  hands  of  C.  Yadda,  Japanese  con- 
sul in  Honolulu.  It  just  so  happened!  And,  it 
should  be  exi)lained  that  C.  Yadda  is  the  biggest 
Japanese  in  point  of  influence  and  position  in 
the  Hawaiian  Islands.  He  represents  his  maj- 
esty, the  emi)eror,  on  the  islands  and  because  of 
the  fact  that  the  Hawaiian  islands  are  looked 
upon  as  the  center  of  things  in  the  Pacific  a 
man  of  high  national  standing  was  chosen  for 
this  i)lace. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  Yadda  decided  that  they 
would  take  their  guests  to  the  Moana  hotel  for 
the  luncheon  so  we  were  driven  to  the  Moana 
hotel  in  the  consul's  elegant  limousine  and  Mr. 
Yadda  led  us  into  the  big  dining  I'oom  of  the 
hotel  with  all  the  dignity  naturally  belonging 
to  so  great  and  so  powerful  a  man  as  is  Mr. 
Yadda.  Well,  well!  didn't  those  Japanese  wait- 
ers stand  up  and  take  notice  when  they  saw  us 
l^eing  ushered  into  the  hotel  under  the  leader- 


WITH    WOKLUS    PRESS   CONGRESS  237 

sliip  ol'  ilK'ii-  \ery  own  "hii;-  ,i;uu"  oi'  tliu  is- 
lands. 

The  head  waitcf  was  'Mohnnic-on-tlic- 
spot. "  We  were  led  to  a  beantifnlly  api)ointed 
tabU^  lookin,^-  ont  witli  the  best  j)Ossible  advant- 
age over  tile  sea.  "Service"  was  the  first, 
hist,  and  micUlle  names  of  Japanese  boys  who 
waited  npon  us,  and  we  discovered  tliat  almost 
all  of  them  had  a  vocabulary  of  English  very 
much  more  extended  than  I  liad  ever  heard 
from  them  before.  Two  stood  about  and  waved 
big  ])alm  leaves  over  us,  while  others  brought 
on  the  edibles.  Our  slightest  wants  were  at- 
tended to  Avith  an  alacrity  that  was  astonish- 
ing. Whatever  we  needed,  that  we  had  just  be- 
fore we  needed  it.  C.  Yadda  and  his  guests  got 
such  service  on  this  occasion  as  was  rarely  ren- 
dered in  this  hotel,  I  am  sure,  and  ever  after 
that  date  I  was  an  object  of  extremely  cordial 
attention  from  those  Jap  boys  whenever  I  drift- 
ed into  the  Moana  dining  room. 

The  city  of  Honolulu  and  all  the  surround- 
ings are  very  picturesque.  To  the  right,  fac- 
ing the  city  from  the  harbor,  is  Diamond  Head, 
a  mountain  promitory  bulging  far  out  into  the 
sea.  Behind  the  city  the  hills  rise  ra])idly  into 
mountains,  beautifully  green,  and  checkered 
here  and  there  with  small  plantations,  country 
residences,  public  buildings,  etc.  The  city  ex- 
tends up  into  a  half  dozen  little  valleys  that 
are  ridged  sharply  on  the  sides  by  precipitous 
hills  that  extend  quickly  to  mountain  heights. 
Diamond  Head,  I  might  add  is  an  extinct  vol- 
cano, and  the  crater  which  is  large  enough  to 
be  utilized  as/  a  drilling  field  for  a  few  regi- 
ments of  soldiers  is  also  the  background  for 
the  extensive  fortifications  of  the  point. 

At  the  edge  of  the  city  just  north  is  another 
extinct  volcano,  the  "Punch  Bowl,"  a   crater 


238 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


about  five  liiindred  feet  high.  From  it  one  gets 
a  most  beautiful  view  of  the  city,  the  harbor, 
and  the  wide  sweep  of  the  Pacific  to  the  south 
and  west.  The  Nuuanno  valley  leads  to  the 
Pali,  the  mountain  pass  referred  to  in  a  recent 
letter.     Instantly  one  is  through  the  Pali,  the 


COL.  AND  MRS.   EDWARD   F.   LAWSON,   LONDON 

Everybody  liked  them,  because  they  made  themselves 
likable  and  useful.  The  colonel  was  busy  all  the  vvhile. 
At  home  he  is  one  of  the  proprietors  of  the  London 
Daily  Telegraph.     "Good  scouts"  was  the  general  verdict. 


ocean  on  the  northern  side  of  the  islands,  comes 
into  view.  In  a  few  moments  driving  from  the 
city  of  Honolulu  one  can  be  hundreds  of  feet 
above  the  city  and  from  those  heights  look  out 
over  scenery*  which  baffles  the  tongue  or  pen 
to  describe.     There  is  a  blending  of  city,  sea. 


WITH  WORLDS   PRESS   CONGRESS  239 


iiioiiiilaiiis,  valleys,  unuiiR'  seacoa.st  i'oriiuitiuns, 
reel's,  islands — such  a  variety  of  things  as  makes 
the  whole  vision  one  to  satisfy  the  most  exact- 
ing- seeker  after  scenic  excitement. 

Fine  roads  back  from  Honolulu  into  the 
mountains  nuike  automobile  travel  a  delight. 
With  each  added  fifty  and  one  hundred  feet  in 
the  ascent  the  beauties  are  enhanced.  There  are 
ridge  sunmiits  on  some  of  the  mountains  along 
which  roads  have  been  built  and  the  grandeur 
of  the  scenic  perspective  beggar  description. 

Within  the  city  of  Honolulu  tlie  vegetation 
beauties  are  fascinating  to  the  visitor  from  the 
north.  Such  beautiful  colors;  such  a  variety  of 
different  foliages,  plants,  trees.  There  are 
flowering  hedges  and  hedges  in  which  the 
leaves  are  of  soft,  variegated  colorings,  brown, 
red,  grey,  and  dainty  yellows.  There  are  flow- 
ering trees,  that  spread  far  and  wide;  great  ban- 
yans, and  i)alms;  such  wonderful  ]ialms!  the 
king  of  them  all  being  that  great,  white  trunked, 
sky  reaching  royal  palm.  The  cocoanut,  the 
]3apaia,  the  bread  fruit  trees  are  everywhere  to 
be  found,  as  are  the  wild  bananas  and  other 
fruit  producing  trees  and  plants.  And  the 
vines.  We  shall  not  forget  them,  for  they  too 
blend  into  the  whole  scene  with  a  delicate,  ar- 
tistic finishing  touch. 

Yes,  and  there  was  the  "Kapu"  tree.  Mr. 
Thales  Coutoupis,  our  Greek  friend,  came  upon 
a  "Kapu"  tree  at  the  entrance  to  a  beautiful 
residence  and  grounds  on  King  street.  The 
beauties  of  the  great  tree  fascinated  him.  It 
towered  high  and  mighty.  It  stretched  its 
arms  far  and  bore  a  burden  of  brightly  leaved 
branches  without  a  murmur.  Mr.  Coutoupis 
paused  to  take  down  the  name  of  the  "Kapu" 
tree  and  write  a  lengthy  description  of  it.  He 
had  just  completed  his  notes  and  was  about  to 


2  40  A  TRIP   TO   THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


move  on  when  a  local  resident  pansed  in  pass- 
ing- to  extend  the  courtesies  of  the  day.  Mr. 
Contoupis  remarked  upon  the  beauties  of  the 
"Kapu"  tree. 

"Kapuf"  queried  the  local  man,  and  then 
g-lanced  up  at  the  sign  on  the  tree  "Kapu." 
He  smiled.  "Kapu,"  he  explained  to  Mr.  Con- 
toupis is,  the  Hawaiian  word  for  "keep  out" 
and  the  "Kapu"  sign  on  the  big  tree  was  to 
suggest  to  passers  by  that  they  pass  on  by  and 
do  not  dare  turn  aside  and  invade  the  priv- 
acy of  the  sacred  grounds  defended  by  the 
"kapu"  sign. 

Mr.  Coutoupis  "kapu-ed"  and  he  made  a 
few  erasures  in  his  note  book,  too.  Have  I 
previously  mentioned  the  fact  that  Mr.  Cou- 
tou]ns  was  a  member  of  the  deposed  Venizelos' 
cabinet  in  Greece  during  the  world  war!  Mr. 
Coutou]ns  is  still  faithful  to  his  chief.  In  that  he 
has  the  entire  sympathy  of  all  his  new  found 
friends  in  these  parts.  By  the  way,  just  to- 
night, at  10  o'clock,  he  and  others  of  our  party 
including  Walter  Williams,  Bill  Smith  and  ex- 
U.  S.  Senator  F.  B.  Glass  and  son  and  their 
wives  sail  westward  for  a  stay  of  a  few  weeks 
in  Japan  and  China. 

The  patriarch  of  our  i)artv  is  Mr.  Frank  M. 
Mills,  of  Sioux  Falls,  So.  Dakota.  Mr.  Mills  is 
in  his  91st  year.  You  wouldn't  think  it.  He's 
as  much  of  a  kid  as  any  of  the  playful  bunch. 
Born  April  4th,  18.31,  in  Indiana,  a  good  state 
to  leave,  as  George  Ade  has  admitted,  he  left 
on  his  25th  birthday  and  went  to  Keokuk,  Iowa. 
Of  course,  we  lowans  are  interested  in  him. 
And  especially  are  the  Iowa  publishers  inter- 
ested in  him,  for  he  was  one  of  us  for  forty- 
six  years.  He  took  such  well  known  Iowa  men 
as  Lafe  Young,  Al  Swalm,  J.  S.  Clarkson  and 
others  from  the  mechanical  departments  of  his 


WITH  WORLD'S  PRESS  CONGRESS  241 

Des  Moines  proporty  the  old  liej^istcr  wliicli  he 
hoii^i^-lit  ill  18G()  aiul  started  them  out  hustling 
news,  later  helped  start  them  in  Inisines.s  and 
look, where  they  are  now.  Mr.  Mills  was  state 
printer  for  four  terms  and  published  fifty-six 
volumes  of  the  Iowa  Su|)reme  Court  records. 
Eventually  he  left  Iowa  and  bought  the  S]u-ing- 
field  News,  111.,  which  he  sold  to  Frank  B.  Lou- 
den. 

For  the  past  seventeen  years  he  has  been 
head  of  the  "Sioux  City  Traction  System."  He 
owns  that  system  and  evidently  he  is  getting 
just  as  much  joy  out  of  the  traction  business  as 
he  used  to  get  out  of  the  publishing  business. 

Oh  yes,  here's  another  interesting  thing 
about  Mr.  Mills:  he  received  his  Masters  De- 
gree from  Wabash  College,  Indiana,  after  he 
had  passed  ninety  years  of  age.  And,  yester- 
day afternoon,  as  I  was  ambling  toward  the  bath 
houses  at  Waikiki  beach,  preparatory  to  taking 
a  plunge,  who  should  I  meet  coming  out  of  the 
great  wet,  as  cai^ery  as  a  kitten,  but  our  dear 
friend  Frank  Mills,  aged  ninety,  plus. 


242  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


LETTER  XXXX. 
The  Maui  Sails 

At  Sea,   November   3,    1921 

We  sailed  yesterday  at  10  a,  m.  on  the  trip 
liomeward.  It  is  sometimes  claimed  that  pas- 
senger ship  sailings  for  any  part  of  the  main 
lands  from  Honolulu  are  made  more  of  than 
from  any  other  port  in  the  world.  We  are  not 
prepared  to  testify  with  authority  as  to  the  jus- 
tice of  such  a  claim,  but  certainly  in  this  in- 
stance the  sailing  was  made  most  interesting 
and  beautiful  by  the  residents  of  Honolulu  who 
simply  followed,  we  are  informed,  the  usual  cus- 
toms of  the  people  of  that  city  under  like  cir- 
cumstances. 

Friend  Pringle  called  for  me  at  the  hotel  at 
about  eight  o'clock  and  as  we  were  leaving  a 
Japanese  steward  hung  a  wreath  of  flowers 
over  my  neck  with  the  remark :  ' '  This  with  our 
aloha."  The  Avreath  was  a  beautiful  collection 
of  lavender  flowers,  woven  into  a  green  back- 
ground and  estimating  its  value  at  about  the 
figures  that  are  usually  ])ut  on  such  trinkets  in 
our  country  we  would  have  to  admit  that  some- 
body had  been  set  back  about  $10.00  in  provid- 
ing such  a  piece  of  harness  for  just  one  hum- 
ble guest,  and  there  were  many  others  receiving 
the  same  treatment.  Hawaii  is  a  land  of  flow- 
ers, though,  so  why  speculate  on  costs,  partic- 
ularly in  a  case  like  this,  Avhere  the  costs  were 
not  to  be  l)orne  by  us,  or  if  they  were  borne  by 
us  the  extraction  was  accomplished  in  such  a 
surreptitious  manner  tliat  we  suffered  no  pain 
in  the  oi)eration. 

However,  the  wreath  around  my  neck  made 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  243 

1110  f  (>ol  as  tliouoli  T  innst  look  iiuich  like  an  over- 
col  larcd  mule.  1  lelt  that  1  was  the  most  coii.spic- 
iious  thing'  in  the  village.  Just  as  soon  as  I  got 
out  to  tlie  car  witli  my  baggage  I  took  the  wreatli 
off  and  laid  it  on  the  back  seat.  At  the  wharf  I 
was  going  to  take  it  on  tlie  l)()at  and  leave  it 
thei-e,  but  niv  friend  insisted  not. 

"Put  it  on,"  lie  said.  "It's  pretty."  Since 
many  others  were  wearing  them,  I  put  mine  on 
again,  reluctantly,  and  went  up  town  to  make 
a  final  arrangement  or  two  before  sailing,  feel- 
ing all  the  while  like  the  above  mentioned  mule 
might  be  supposed  to  feel. 

Strangely  enough,  no  one  looked  at  me  with 
amused,  or  critical  eyes.  Such  a  spectacle  as  I 
must  have  been  seemed  to  be  quite  the  thing  on 
the  streets  of  Honolulu.  At  every  corner  there 
were  girls  and  women,  most  of  them  natives 
with  these  "leis"  for  sale.  They  had  them  in 
all  sizes,  colors,  qualities,  and  very  many  people 
were  wearing  them.  My  friend  bought  two  and 
threw  them  over  my  head.  "This  is  our  way  of 
saying,  good-bye,  good  luck,  bon  voyage,  God 
bless  you,  etc.,  etc.,"  he  said.  At  the  dock  a 
member  of  some  Honolulu  committee  threw  an- 
other yoke  over  my  shoulders  and  soon  another 
newly  found  friend  reached  the  wharf  to  say 
good-bye  to  me,  and  he,  too,  carried  with  him  a 
beautiful  wreatli  of  lilies  which  took  its  place 
with  all  the  others  as  a  floral  neckpiece. 

Had  I  been  the  only  one  so  bedecked  I  think 
I  would  have  jum])ed  into  the  sea  rather  than 
have  faced  the  multitude,  but  I  was  not  the  only 
one;  there  were  hundreds  of  others,  many  of 
them  literally  buried  in  flowers  and  ]^aper 
wreaths.  Some  had  a  dozen  or  so  of  the  beau- 
tiful "leis"  piled  high  upon  their  shoulders: 
thev  could  barely  see  through  them. 

P^rom  the  dock,  the  scene  of  the  hundreds  of 


244  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

passengers  leaning  over  the  deck  rail,  each  dec- 
orated with  a  great  mass  of  flowers  of  myriad 
dainty  colors  mnst  have  been  amazingly  pretty. 
Below  a  band  played  stirring  airs  and  from  the 
deck,  too,  passengers  threw"  out  long  streamers 
of  thin,  narrow  paper  in  variegated  colors  and 
hundreds  of  those  waved  in  the  air  and  played 
into  the  faces  of  the  friends  on  the  dock  below. 
At  ten  o'clock  the  gang  plank  dropped,  the 
great  boat  started  to  swing  gently  out  into  the 


MR.  AND  MRS.  S.   G.  GOLDTHWAITE,   BOONE,  IOWA, 

AND    FRIENDS 

Mr.  Goldthwaite  standing,  rear;  Mrs.  Goldthwaite,  right. 
This  illustrates  the  beautiful  Hawaiian  custom  of  be- 
decking their  friends  with  collars  of  flower  called  "Leas" 

water  and,  amid  shouting  and  singing  and  band 
music  and  waving  flags  and  streamers,  we  were 
away;  off  again  toward  home,  leaving  "the  par- 
adise of  the  Pacific"  behind.  Far  out  in  the 
harbor  we  could  still  hear  the  sweet  voices  of 
the  Hawaiians  singing  the  tenderly  beautiful 
"Aloha  Oe"  as  their  goodbye  to  us. 

The  ship  we  travel  in  this  time  is  the 
"Maui,"  a  sister  ship  of  the  Matsonia  on  which 
we  came  across.    There  are  but  two  of  us  in  our 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  245 

(•n])iii  tliis  time,  my  ('oiii]);nii()n  being-  a  Mr.  E. 
II.  Childress,  of  Fairfield,  111.  ()nr  bedroom 
steward  is  an  Israelite  by  the  name  of  McGoorty 
— J.  MeGoorty.  He  looks  the  part.  When  we 
first  went  down  into  onr  ea])in  tlie  })ort  was 
open  and  a  nice  cool  breeze  was  coming  into  our 
room;  later  in  the  day  we  found  the  port  tightly 
closed,  and  the  air  a  little  close  in  our  compart- 
ment. However,  we  had  traveled  enough  at  sea 
to  be  a  little  careful  about  opening  ports  on  our 
own  responsibility,  and  sure  enough,  soon  after, 
we  heard  a  heavy  splash  and  glancing  up  we 
noticed  that  the  glass  over  the  port  was  turning- 
off  a  deluge  of  water. 

A  few^  moments  later  our  Israelite  friend 
passed  by  our  way  using  old  testatment  lan- 
guage and  carrying  an  armload  of  clothing, 
beautifully    saturated.       We    hailed    him   long- 

enough  to  gather  the  information  that  a  " 

idiot"  in  a  nearby  cabin  had  opened  his  port 
with  the  result  that  a  barrel  or  so  of  loose  sea 
had  come  in  through  the  opening,  submerging  a 
trunk  full  of  clothing  and  a  lower  bunk  in  nice, 
juicy  sea  water.  ''And  the '  is  claim- 
in'  that  he  didn't  open  the  port.    I  closed  every 

of  them,"  protested  McGoorty.  "Now 

he's  got  his  clothes  in  a of  a  shape!"  was 

McGoorty 's  parting  comment  on  that  topic. 

"It's  awfully  wet  out  here,"  I  thoughtfully 
observed,  "roads  never  get  dusty  at  all  do 
they?" 

"Never  a  bit,"  admitted  McGoorty.  "I've 
made  eighty  trips  across  here  now,  and  no  dif- 
ference liow  many  go  over  the  road,  or  how  fast 
they  run,  the  dust  never  bothers  any  at  all,  wet 
weather  or  dry  it  don't  make  no  difference." 

"Out  ill!  Iowa  where  I  come  from,  it  gets 
pretty  dusty  sometimes  along  during  the  sum- 
mer, when  there  is  little  rain,"  I  explained. 


246 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


''lo-way  is  a  pretty  dry  state,  I've  hear-ed," 
]\Ir.  McGroorty  observed  as  lie  trudged  on  with 
his  dripping  Inirden  in  liis  arms. 

The  sea  is  running  a  little  heavy  again.  This 
is  winter  weather.  It  is  always  a  little  rough 
in  Xoveml)er  and  December  one  of  the  officers 
informed  us.  We  were  l^arely  out  into  the  open 
sea  before  people  began  to  get  sick.  Some  of 
them  evidently  decide  that  they  have  to  be  sick 
and  "go  to  it"  at  once.    The  person  I  feel  sorry 


WERE    FROM    I-O-W-A 
"Where  the  tall  corn  grows" 

Ed  Medary  of  W^aukon  and  Hawaiian  friends  who  trace 
their   ancestry  back   to   the   Corn    Belt   District  of   Iowa. 

for  though  is  the  one  who  discovers  that  he  is 
sick  too  late  and  can't  ([uite  make  the  unloading 
port,  but  sort  of  spills  himself  along  the  deck, 
much  to  the  amusement  of  the  more  fortunate 
and  sometimes  unsympathetic  travelers.  There 
is,  it  is  true,  something  sort  of  ridiculously  un- 
dignified about  the  attitude  of  a  sea  sick  per- 
son. He  fails  to  arouse  sympathy.  Better  make 
the  best  of  it;  make  a  joke  out  of  it  if  possible. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  247 


T]]('  (•()in])r('li(Misive  comniciit  of  one  seasick  ])cr- 
soii:  "I  I'aise  all  1  oat  down  liorc,"  covers  more 
than  is  sliown  on  the  snrl'ace  of  the  remark. 

Mv  table  companions  are  Afr.  and  Mrs.  Ilug-li 
Powell,  of  Coffevville,  Kansas,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
C.  H.  McMaster  of  Galveston,  Texas.  Mr. 
McMaster  and  Mrs.  Powell  seem  to  be  the  two 
of  onr  oroiip  avIio  are  liavin.G,-  a  little  difficulty 
in  "li()idini>-  their  own."  Mr.  McMaster  con- 
fes.^es  that  he  didn't  last  night.  Mrs.  Powell 
looks  as  if  she  had  had  equal  success,  but  both 
face  life  bravely.  Mr.  McMaster  says  he  be- 
lieves in  a  hereafter  and  while  Mrs.  Powell  ad- 
mits that  there  has  been  a  time  or  two  when 
she  didn't  care  whether  there  is  or  not,  she  be- 
lieves that  on  the  average  her  sentiments  favor 
an  after  life,  providing-  it  doesn't  "Rock  on  the 
billows  of  the  deep." 

The  only  thing  that  has  had  a  tendency  to 
make  this  writer  sick  is  the  way  the  ship  turns 
around.  I  will  go  down  stairs  and  travel  around 
through  the  boat  and  then  come  up  to  find  that 
it  is  going  southwest  instead  of  northeast;  then 
I  will  walk  across  from  one  side  of  the  boat  to 
the  other  through  a  passageway  and  find  that 
while  I  was  making  that  trip  the  boat  turned 
around  and  is  once  more  headed  the  right  way. 
Then  some  acquaintance  will  come  along  and 
we  will  walk  a  few  steps,  maybe  up  to  the  up- 
per deck,  or  down  stairs  and  come  up  again  and 
find  the  boat  headed  l)ack  to  Honolulu.  Even 
now  as  I  look  out  the  port  hole  the  boat  seems 
to  be  headed  toward  tlie  south  pole  and  going 
farther  and  farther  away  from  home  instead  of 
toward  it.  All  I  need  to  do  though  to  get  things 
right  again  is  to  go  to  the  other  side  of  the  boat 
and  climb  a  short  flight  of  stairs  and  lo  and  be- 
hold the  world  will  be  straight  again! 

The   ocean   is    wonderfully   beautiful    down 


248  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


here  and  there  is  so  niiieh  of  it;  east  2000  miles, 
west  3000  miles,  north  3500  miles,  south  almost 
to  the  south  pole  without  interru])tion.  We 
thought  we  saw  a  whale  yesterday,  but  we  were 
mistaken.  Two  porpoise  were  driving  tandem 
and  they  looked  big  enough  to  be  a  whale.  Later 
we  saw  a  group  of  three  of  the  porpoise.  They 
were  big  fellows  and  are  the  one  big  fish  who 
seem  to  enjoy  showing  themselves  above  water. 
The  ladies  of  our  table  say  that  they  saw  octo- 
puses on  sale  in  the  fish  market  in  Honolulu. 
With  all  our  hatred  of  vested  interests,  Stand- 
ard Oil,  packers,  sugar  trust,  steel  trust,  etc., 
who'd  want  to  EAT  an  octopus!  They  do 
make  a  dainty  dish,  though,  so  they  say. 

I  stood  for  about  an  hour  at  the  aquarium  out 
at  Waikiki  beach  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Powell  one 
afternoon  and  watched  six  live  octopuses  man- 
euver around  through  the  water  and  the  next 
morning  I  wondered  what  had  come  over  the 
spirit  of  my  dreams  the  night  before  that 
prompted  them  to  persistently  deal  with  snake 
subjects  during  the  sad  hours  of  that  night.  I 
saw  snakes  of  all  kinds  and  battled  with  them 
from  every  corner.  They  were  filthy  looking 
snakes,  too,  great  and  small  wrigglers,  always 
threatening  me.  The  moral  to  this  touching 
story  is  don 't  stand  too  long  before  the  octupus 
cage  when  you  go  to  the  aquarium. 

Weir  I'd  better  quit  right  here.  My  room- 
mate has  just  come  in  admitting  that  he  is 
wrong  amidshii^s,  that  he  feels  a  disturbance 
in  his  hatch,  and  that  but  a  few  moments  ago 
while  on  deck  he  was  forced  to  heave  out  a  lit- 
tle breakfast  ballast.  By  the  way,  this  is  what 
our  boat  is  carrying  this  trip  in  addition  to  her 
nice  list  of  passengers:  85,000  bags  sugar;  70,- 
000  cases  pineapple;  4,000  bunches  of  bananas 
and  1,000  tons  of  molasses. 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  249 


LETTER  XXXXI. 
A  New  World 

At  Sea,  November  5,   1921 

We  are  now  three  days  out,  a  tlioiisand 
miles  from  land  and  about  half  way  between 
Honolulu  and  San  Francisco.  Since  leaving- 
Honolulu  we  have  not  seen  anything  excepting 
our  boat  and  its  occupants,  the  big  blue  sea,  an 
occasional  sea  bird  and  the  sky  until  just  a  lit- 
tle while  ago  when  the  Matsonia  the  boat  on 
which  we  went  to  Honolulu,  hove  in  sight  and 
is  now  out  of  sight  again.  We  spoke  in  passing. 
The  Matsonia  lowered  a  small  boat  and  brought 
mail  across  to  us,  receiving  mail  also.  In  addi- 
tion to  that  they  handed  over  two  stowaways, 
who  had  hidden  themselves  in  the  Matsonia  at 
San  Francisco  and  after  a  three  days'  voyage 
out  are  now  headed  back  for  another  three  days 
trip  before  being  landed  at  the  place  they 
started  from.  All  their  dreams  of  wintering  in 
the  tropics  have  gone  glimmering  for  the  pres- 
ent and  they  are  now  diligently  polishing  up 
railings,  scrubbing  deck  floors  and  doing  other 
petty  chores  under  the  attentive  command  of  a 
rather  petulantly  inclined  seaman. 

The  sick  seem  to  be  getting  better  gradually. 
The  sea  is  just  waving  pleasantly.  I  am  in- 
clined to  think  that  this  part  of  the  Pacific  is 
pacific.  Talking  to  the  ship  barber  yesterday 
I  learned  that  he  has  been  on  this  run  for  twelve 
years  now,  making  every  trip  that  his  boat 
makes,  which  is  one  round  trip  every  three 
weeks,  and  in  all  that  time  a  dangerously  se- 
vere storm  has  never  been  encountered  by  the 
boat.     r)n  two  trips  only  has  the  ship  been  de- 


250  A  TRIP   TO   THE   HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS 

laved  by  heavy  seas.  On  those  trips,  he  ex- 
phiined,  the  ship  rolled  all  tlie  way  across.  They 
had  to  run  at  half  speed  and  tlie  waves  swept 
the  decks  most  of  the  time,  hut  he  did  not  sug- 
gest  that  there  was  any  particular  danger.  The 
delay  and  the  unpleasantness  of  such  travel  was 
all  he  complained  about. 

If  all  goes  well  we  should  land  in  San  Fran- 
cisco earlv  Tuesdav  morning.  We  have  had  or- 
ders  to  arrange  to  have  all  our  baggage  open 
for  inspection  by  the  horticultural  authorities 
when  we  reach  San  Francisco.  I  have  there- 
fore begun  arranging  my  soiled  socks,  handker- 
chiefs, shirts,  pantaloons,  etc.,  in  convenient 
form  so  that  they  will  have  no  difficulty  in  as- 
certaining that  they  are  what  they  pretend  to 
be.  The  horticultural  authorities  fear  that  we 
may  smuggle  some  agricultural  pests  into  the 
United  States  through  the  medium  of  trans- 
ported plants,  flowers,  fruits,  etc.  So  near  as  I 
can  learn  there  is  little  to  fear.  Hawaii  is  no 
more  infested  with  insect  pests  than  is  the 
mainland.  In  fact,  to  start  with,  Hawaii  had 
no  ])ests  at  all  and  what  she  has  now  were  im- 
])orted  from  other  countries.  She  never  was  in 
the  pest  export  business.  The  reason  is  simple 
enough.  The  islands  of  Hawaii  are  volcanic  is- 
lands. They  rose  right  up  out  of  the  sea  with- 
out any  advance  notice  to  anybody.  There 
were  no  bugs,  no  insects  of  any  kind,  no  vege- 
tation, no  human  beings  on  that  lava  nose  that 
suddenly,  one  day,  shoved  itself  up  through  the 
blue  waters  of  the  Pacific  and  took'  one  first 
glance  at  the  star  speckled  sky  above. 

Such  an  incident  in  world  development  looks 
like  a  new  creation  almost,  doesn't  it?  Here 
was  a.  new  world  to  be  built.  A  piece  of  lava  and 
upon  this  lava  there  was  to  appear  eventually 
vegetation  and  animal  life.     How  was  it  going 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  251 

to  linpjicii?  Tt  (lid  liapixMi  and  the  process  is 
simple  (Mi()ni;li  after  all.  'riic  now  islands  "'row, 
more  lava  came  np  and  spi'ead  out  and  the  is- 
lands became  larger  and  moi'o  nnmerons.  The 
weather  began  its  i)rocesses  of  mannfactni'ing- 
soil.  It  beat  ui)on  the  lava  with  wind  and  ram 
and  oradnally  melted  the  top  into  dnst.  The  sea 
did  its  part,  too.  It  carried  the  first  veftetable 
seeds  from  the  distant  lands  and  planted  then* 
in  the  virgin  soil  of  this  new  world  of  oni's.  The 
seeds  grew  into  plants;  the  plants  died  down 
and  rotted  and  made  more  soil  and  soil  of  a  dif- 
ferent kind,  and  so  was  bnilt  the  foundation  for 
agricultural  activities  on  this  ])oint  of  lava 
which  had  so  imi)udently  crowded  the  ocean  out 
of  its  way  and  taken  a  front  seat  in  one  of  the 
most  pleasantW  situated  spots  on  the  earth, 
some  hundreds  of  thousands,  mavbe  a  million 
years  ago. 

How  came  animal  life  on  these  islands? 
Much  that  is  here  has  come  since  man  came.  Of 
course,  l)irds  established  themselves  long,  hmg 
ago.  Transportation  is  not  so  difficult  for  birds. 
Two  thousand  miles  of  sea  travel  is  a  long: 
journey  for  a  land  bird,  l)ut  who  knows,  maybe 
two  hundred  thousands  of  years  ago  there  were 
other  islands  in  existence  that  are  not  in  ex- 
istence now,  and  all  those  little  birds  had  to  do 
to  get  to  Hawaii  was  to  hop  from  one  stone  to 
another,  from  one  little  island  to  another  until 
they  finally  got  to  Hawaii  and  finding  in  Ha- 
waii the  safest  place  for  birds  that  they  had 
ever  known,  they  settled  on  those  islands,  built 
homes,  reared  families,  established  bird  schools 
and  churches  and  lived  peacefully  for  many, 
many  centuries. 

They  lived  very  peacefully  in  Hawaii  be- 
cause their  land  enemies  were  not  there  to  both- 
er them.    There  were  no  squirrels,  no  snakes  cf 


252  A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

any  kind.  There  are  no  reptiles  on  any  of 
the  Hawaiian  islands.  A  man  would  be  drawn 
and  quartered  if  he  brought  a  snake  into  any  of 
the  island  ports.  The  mongoose  is  now  destruc- 
tive of  birds  and  their  eggs.  It  is  about  the 
size  of  a  rat,  a  native  of  India  and  may  have 
been  brought  here  by  some  one  who  kept  them 
as  pets,  or  may  have  arrived  by  boat  as  a  stow- 
away. 

When  civilized  man  came  to  these  islands 
there  were  no  mosquitoes,  no  flies,  none  of  those 
common  little  insects  that  so  studiously  ap- 
ply themselves  to  making  life  unpleasant 
for  us  who  live  on  the  larger  continents. 
The  mosquitoes  of  Hawaii  were  imported 
They  are  a  smaller  variety  than  the  Jer- 
sey brand,  or  even  the  Iowa  brand,  but  they 
seem  to  bore  just  as  deep  and  there  is  not  much 
difference  in  the  songs  they  sing  as  they  go 
about  their  work.  The  flies  in  Hawaii  are  not 
so  vivacious  as  are  the  flies  of  Iowa.  They 
move  more  slowly,  are  not  so  light  upon  the 
wing.  They  do  not  seem  to  enter  into  life  with 
that  zest  common  to  our  Iowa  fly  product.  They 
are  lazy  in  action  and  they  fall  into  the  sou]) 
more  deliberately,  with  less  splash  than  do  the 
flies  that  have  been  reared  in  the  more  invigor- 
ating climes  of  the  north. 

Was  there  a  new  creation  of  man,  especi- 
ally for  the  Hawaiian  islands?  No,  it  is  not  so 
assumed.  The  theory  is  that  adventuresome 
islanders  from  the  Samoan  or  Society  groups 
south  were  the  first  to  find  Hawaii  and  that 
they  found  it  only  after  vegetation  and  animal 
bird  life  had  gotten  well  established  on  the 
newly  found  group  of  islands.  Drift,  too,  from 
the  far  north  and  northeast  frequently  reaches 
the  northeastern  coast  of  the  Hawaiian  is- 
lands.     Human    beings    out    on    the    sea    in 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS  CONGRESS  253 

boats  fishing  might  have  been  carried  out 
and  driven  to  tiie  Hawaiian  coasts.  At 
any  rate,  wlien  so-calkul  civilized  man  discover- 
ed the  Hawaiian  islands  he  found  otlier  men 
there,  and  they  were  a  race  advanced  in  many 
ways  beyond  the  savage  stage. 

History  and  legend  tends  to  show  that  there 
were  peo]:)le  of  Tihiti,  some  two  thousand  miles 
from  Hawaii,  many  centuries  ago  who  were  dar- 
ing explorers.  How^ever,  it  is  not  known  wheth- 
er they  were  really  native  explorers,  or  whether 
they  had  reached  Tihiti  from  Hawaii  and  then 
traveled  back  and  forth  in  their  little  canoe 
fleets.  Some  choose  to  believe  that  the  north- 
ern and  eastern  islands  were  inhabited  first  and 
the  spread  was  made  south  and  southeast  in  line 
with  the  ])revailing  winds  and  ocean  currents. 
The  inhabitants  of  all  these  islands  are  linked 
Ti]i  in  a  common  race  parentage.  The  point  of 
dispersement  is  placed,  by  some  authorities, 
at  SaA^aii,  one  of  the  Samoan  group,  two  thou- 
sand miles  south  of  Hawaii.  The  natives  of 
New  Zealand,  (probably  populated  later  than 
Hawaii,)  of  the  Philippine  Islands,  the  Hawai- 
ian Islands,  Society  Islands,  etc.,  etc.,  are  all 
supposed  to  have  originally  proceeded  from  the 
<'ommon  center  above  named. 

The  real  facts  concerning  the  above  are  not 
jcnown.  But,  certain  it  is,  eventually  men  got 
to  Hawaii,  after  the  lava  had  cooled  and  the 
vegetation  had  got  a  good  start  and  there  they 
settled  and  there  they  have  been  ever  since. 
Tlie  history  of  Hawaiian  life  and  rule  under  na- 
tive chiefs  seems  to  be  the  story  of  one  tragedy 
after  another;  battle  after  battle  between  rival 
chiefs  who  sought  to  control.  No  quarter  was 
given  in  battle  and  since  they  were  battling  all 
the  time,  there  was  butchery  going  on  all  the 
time,   too.        A   captured    chief   was    ]irom|)tly 


254  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

cooked,  but  not  eaten.  There  are  no  records 
to  show  that  the  Hawaiians  liked  to  eat  each 
other,  but  they  did  like  to  roast  each  other,  and 
the  human  sacrifice  was  one  of  their  religious 
forms.  Even  so  late  as  within  comparatively 
modern  times,  since  white  men  found  the  is- 
lands, the  custom  of  human  sacrifice  was  con- 
tinued. 

Some  forty  years  after  the  discovery  of  the 
islands  by  Captain  Cook  in  1778,  Queen  Keo- 
puolani,  wife  of  King  Kamehameha  1st,  became 
ill  and  her  condition  was  so  serious  that  the 
king  began  offering  human  sacrifices  in  order 
to  pacify  the  gods.  He  ])icked  out  ten  nice,  fat 
men  for  sacrifice  but  after  three  of  them  had 
been  killed  the  queen  began  to  show  signs  of 
improvement  in  health  and  the  other  seven  men 
were  released.  The  above  named  king  solidi- 
fied the  islands  into  one  group,  under  his  king- 
ship and  it  was  during  the  later  years  of  his 
reign  that  he  began  to  comprehend  that  there 
were  some  defects  in  the  religious  practices  of 
his  people.  He  was  led  to  that  understanding 
by  his  contact  with  the  outside  world.  At  the 
age  of  82,  in  the  year  1819,  one  year  before  the 
missionaries  reached  Hawaii,  this  king  died  is- 
suing on  his  death  bed  the  order  that  the  human 
sacrifice  should  not  be  made  as  a  part  of  his 
obsequies.  This  was  the  beginning  of  a  new 
epoch  in  Hawaiian  history;  an  epoch  sometimes 
beautiful,  at  ether  times  not  so  pretty. 

Once  put  under  restraint  the  Hawaiian  peo- 
ple showed  themselves  to  be  docile,  submissive, 
hospitable,  tender  hearted  and  deeply  respon- 
sive to  the  religious  and  other  emotions.  Some 
of  those  very  dualities,  however,  tended  the 
wrong  way  and  led  the  people  into  snares,  made 
them  willing  and  delighted  participants  in  de- 
Ijaucheries,   and   has   helped   materially  to   de- 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  255 

l)lote  tlu'ir  iinmbers.  Tlioy  cannot  fto  the  '•]ia('(!" 
and  sni*\ive.  From  a  |)o|)nlation  of  perhaps 
lM)(), ()()()  when  Ca])tain  Cook  diseovered  the  is- 
hinds  tlie  nnmber  has  slirnnk  to  al)ont  25,000 
now.  That  does  not  inclnde  the  mixed  famil- 
ies. The  Hawaiian  ])eople  assimilate  readily. 
They  have  intermarried  with  the  Portn^nese, 
the  Chinese,  the  whites  and  with  several  other 
races,  the  ])rodnct  being  of  good  grade. 

The  Hawaiian  as  he  is  today  is  splendidly 
treated  in  his  native  land.  They  are  in  no  way 
looked  down  ii)3on.  They  are  gentle  in  manner, 
courteons,  have  been  reared  with  the  nnder- 
standing  that  they  are  as  good  as  other  people 
and  there  is  never  any  thought  of  anything  dif- 
ferent. One  comes  in  contact  with  them  on  ev- 
ery hand  in  Honokiln,  in  public  office,  in  i)Osi- 
tions  of  trust,  as  police  officers,  as  street  car 
and  train  conductors,  etc.,  etc.  They  are  a  lov- 
able people. 

On  the  boat  the  first  day  out  from  Honolulu 
I  noticed  a  young  soldier  l)oy  in  uniform.  He 
didn't  make  himself  very  conspicuous;  was 
generally  at  the  rear  of  the  boat  in  a  secluded 
spot  alone.  There  came  an  evening  later  when 
I  was  wandering  around  on  the  upper  deck,  and 
in  the  aimlessness  of  my  meanderings  I  thread- 
ed my  way  through  some  boat  paraphernalia 
to  a  seat  well  astern,  hidden  from  the  brutal 
gaze  of  <listurbing  ])assengers.  Nay,  not  so! 
There  was  our  soldier  boy  snugly  crouched  on  a 
roll  of  rope  looking  out  across  sea  that  reflected 
a  brilliant  stream  of  light  from  the  moon  which 
was  deliberately  following  us  across  the  water. 

I  looked  at  the  stream  of  light  a  while,  then 
up  to  the  moon,  then  across  at  the  boy,  out  at 
the  moon  again  and  back  at  the  boy  and  fin- 
ally ventured  the  witty  and  original  comment : 

"It's  a  beautiful  night  on  the  sea,  isn't  it?" 


256  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

"I'll  say  it  is,"  the  boy  said,  brightly,  frank- 
ly, quickly,  pleasantly,  wistfully. 

"I'll  he  glad  enough  to  land,  though,"  I 
continued,  sparring  for  more  opening,  for  I  was 
curiously  anxious  to  find  out  more  about  the 
boy. 

"Maybe  you  think  I  won't,"  piped  in  our 
boy.  "I'll  be  good  and  glad  to  get  back  to 
Iowa. ' ' 

"Iowa?  Why,  I'm  from  Iowa,  too.  What 
part  are  you  going  to?" 

"My  home  is  near  Miles,  Iowa.  My  father 
owns  a  farm  there." 

"Going  home  on  a  furlough,  I  suppose." 

"No,  I'm  discharged,"  the  boy  replied  rath- 
er gleefully. 

"Glad  to  get  out  of  the  army?"  I  suggested. 

"You  know  it,"  he  replied.  "I've  had  two 
years  and  five  months  of  it  and  I've  seen 
enough.     Father  got  my  discharge  for  me." 

"Were  you  in  active  service?" 

"No,  I  didn't  get  over  into  France.  I  was 
too  young,  but  just  as  soon  as  I  was  old  enough 
I  enlisted." 

"Where  have  you  been?" 

"I  was  six  months  in  Siberia,  2000  miles  in- 
land, in  weather  fifty  to  sixty  degrees  below 
zero  part  of  the  time  and  it  was  tough.  It  took 
us  eight  days  to  get  in  and  twenty  days  to  get 
out,  in  little  freight  cars  that  carried  twenty- 
four  men,  crowded  in  like  cattle  in  a  car?" 

"No  fire?" 

"Yes,  we  had  a  little  stove  in  each  car,  and 
someone  had  to  stay  awake  all  the  time  and 
keep  it  going  strong  or  we  would  have  frozen. 
They  jumped  us  down  to  Manila  from  away  up 
there  and  when  we  got  to  Manila  with  no  cloth- 
ing excepting  our  Russian  fur  garments  we 
made  the  natives  look,  I'll  tell  you.     Then  we 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  257 


came  over  to  Scofield  and  I've  been  there  ever 
since." 

''That's  a  nice  i)1ace  to  be  isn't  it!" 

"You  inio'ht  think  so,  but  there  is  nothing- 
doing.  Same  okl  tiling  over  and  over  again. 
I'm  ghid  I'm  out  of  it.  I've  liad  enough  trav- 
el, 11,000  miles  sea  in  a  few  months  and  from 
the  coldest  part  of  the  world  to  almost  the 
warmest  with  no  change  of  clothing." 

"Back  to  the  farm  with  you  is  it!" 

That's  the  jirogram.  Dad  needs  me.  Sol- 
diers ain't  thought  as  much  of  as  they  used  to 
be,"  he  added  rather  plaintively. 

"I  guess  that's  so,"  I  admitted.  "In  war 
time  the  soldier  is  the  boy,  but  in  times  of  peace 
much  of  the  glamour  is  gone." 

"On  the  island  there,  there  ain't  no  girls, 
anyway,"  the  boy  continued.  "One  hundred 
privates  and  two  or  three  officers. to  every  girl 
in  Honolulu." 

"You'll  find  plenty  of  girls  when  you  get 
back  to  Iowa,"  I  commented  encouragingly. 

"You  bet,  and  pretty  ones,  too,"  was  the 
enthusiastic  response. 


258 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


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WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  259 


LETTKK  XXXXII. 
On  Land  Again 

En    Train — Homeward,    November    10,    1921 

We  fog  horned  into  San  Francisco  the  morn- 
ing of  the  eightli.  Away  along  in  the  night,  or 
in  the  early  morning,  rather,  jjerhaps  at  about 
fonr  o'clock,  many  of  us  were  awakened  from 
our  pleasant  or  unpleasant  dreams  as  the  case 
may  have  been,  by  the  intermitten  roar  of  the 
Maui's  fog  horn. 

We  had  heard  the  whistle  but  once  before, 
that  was  when  on  the  afternoon  of  Sunday,  the 
6th,  the  crew  had  been  called  to  fire  drill  by  the 
shriek  of  the  whistle.  To  be  awakened  rudely 
during  the  nis'lit  by  that  same  noise  prompted 
the  mental  surmise  that  there  might  be  a  really 
for  sure  fire  this  time.  A  little  meditation 
though  supplemented  by  an  attempted  glance 
through  the  port  hole  to  see  what  could  be  seen, 
cleared  the  mystery,  or  rather  "mist"-ified  the 
mystery,  for  one  little  attempt  to  see  through 
the  port  hole  showed  that  a  curtain  of  heavy 
fog  was  enveloping  all  the  great  without. 

From  that  moment  we  were  perfectly  satis- 
fied to  listen  to  that  whistle.  If  it  didn't  ring 
forth  its  hoarse  clarion  pretty  frequently  we 
wondered  why  and  were  inclined  to  go  ''for'd" 
and  stand  on  the  deck  in  order  to  call  to  any 
on-coming  boat  that  might  threaten  to  bump 
us  into  kingdom  come.  The  sound  of  a  fog 
horn  on  another  boat  not  far  distant  from  us 
was  not  re-assuring  but  nothing  serious  happen- 
ed. By  the  time  daylight  had  come  there  were 
shrieks  all  around  us.  We  were  anchored  in 
the  harbor;  had  crawled  through  the  Golden 


260  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Gate  by  some  means  and  were  idling-  on  the 
quiet  sea  in  the  deep  fog  waiting  I'or  some  one 
to  find  us.  We  couldn't  go  to  dock  until  after 
the  immigration  officers  had  come  aboard  and 
looked  us  over. 

Finally  a  small  boat  representing  the  steam- 
ship line  found  us  and  brought  great  joy  to 
many  of  the  passengers  by  bringing  aboard  the 
great  mass  of  mail  that  had  accumulated  in 
the  office  during  the  six  days  that  the  Maui 
had  l)een  at  sea.  From  the  bridge  an  officer 
called  down  to  the  small  boat: 

"Tell  the  custom  house  that  we've  been 
swingin'  out  here  in  the  smoke  for  two  hours 
waitin'  for  'em,  an'  be  quick  about  it.  We're 
tired  of  this!" 

Out  into  the  mist  shot  the  little  boat,  squeal- 
ing its  warning  as  it  went  and  in  the  course  of 
an  hour  or  so  a  larger  boat  flying  a  profusion 
of  U.  S.  flags  came  alongside  and  we  knew  then 
that  we  were  in  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  Such 
an  impudent  bunch  of  people  you  never  saw; 
butting  into  our  private  affairs  just  as  if  they 
belonged  to  our  respective  families.  Eeally, 
what  business  has  an  entire  male  stranger 
])rowling  around  through  a  lady's  touch-me- 
nots?  But  that's  the  way  the  customs  officers 
do;  hunting  for  opium,  25%  hair  oil,  forbidden 
fruits  and  the  likes.  They  didn't  find  any  over 
per  cent  hair  oil  on  our  boat.  It  had  all  been 
disposed  of  the  night  before.  Much  as  we  dis- 
like to  admit  it,  yet  it  was  a  fact  that  the 
evening  before  we  landed,  there  Avas  evidence 
that  some  one  had  smuggled  some  wild  cow's 
milk  aboard. 

At  a  dinner  table  not  far  from  where  our 
modest  party  sat  we  suddenly  discovered  that 
the  hilarity  was  increasing  by  leaps  and  bounds. 
I  had  to  turn  around  to  see  what  was  going  on 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  261 

l)iit  1  (lid  nil  that  and  the  fii'st  tliiiio-  I  noticed 
was  that  a  yoiiiin'  woman  witii  shoes  and  stocU- 
in^2i's  and  a  niinoi-  article  or  two  on  was  sniok- 
ini;-  a  cigarette  and  trying  to  see  if  she  could  see 
clear  across  the  table.  Once  in  a  while  she 
would  laugh,  a  wild,  free,  unrestrained  laugh 
thjit  teni])orarily  did  away  witli  the  need  of  any 
foghorn  on  the  boat. 

Also,  a  German  gentleman  by  the  name  of 
McCarty  seated  at  the  same  table  seemed  im- 
mensely pleased  with  himself;  his  eyes  spark- 
led in  merriment,  he  was  evidently  glad  to  be 
aboard  with  such  a  large  and  well  behaved 
conii)any.  He  arose  to  addi'ess  the  audience, 
but  a  friend  considerately  pulled  him  down  and 
he  didn't  get  on  his  feet  again  until  he  and  his 
friends  found  it  necessary  to  make  a  journey 
to  their  state  rooms,  or  to  whatever  point  there 
was  on  the  boat  that  housed  the'  supply  for 
their  thirst  requirements. 

It  is  a  very  great  pleasure  to  be  able  to  state 
that  one  of  the  gentlemen  of  this  party  had 
never  y^et  seen  the  soil  of  America's  main  land. 
Three  were  Australians,  two  were  from  Hawaii 
and  the  wild  woman  was  the  wife  of  a  tenor 
who  had  sung  such  a  beautiful  solo  at  a  social 
gathering  in  social  hall  the  evening  before.  The 
tenor's  part  in  this  evening's  celebration  did 
not  extend  beyond  an  effort  to  eat  the  paper 
cap  with  which  one  of  his  friends  had  decorated 
his  cranium  when  he  first  came  to  dinner. 

The  customs  officers  were  not  such  bad  fel- 
lows after  all.  They  were  nice  about  it,  and  I 
liave  it  on  good  authority  that  they  were  just 
as  gentle  with  the  belongings  of  the  ladies  as 
could  reasonably  be  expected.  At  first  I  had 
thought  what  a  shame  that  men  are  permitted 
to  do  all  this  inspecting  of  baggage,  irrespective 
of  whether  it  is  man's  belongings  or  woman's 


262  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

])e]ongings  that  are  being  gone  throngli.  Why 
not  have  woman  inspectors?  Why  not  be  fair 
about  itf  And  then,  I  remembered  that  the 
customs  boat  had  come  out  early  m  the  morn- 
ing through  a  dense  fog  that  the  surroundings 
on  the  customs  boat  were  rather  bleak  and  bare, 
and  that  when  the  customs  boat  got  to  our  boat 
a  fifty  foot  ladder  rope  was  thrown  from  our 
deck  to  the  customs  boat  and  one  by  one  tlie 
customs  officers  climbed  up  that  swinging  lad- 
der, holding  on  for  dear  life  and  then  when 
each  got  to  the  railing  he  threw  a  leg  up  over 
the  railing  and  struggled  aboard.  This  is 
done  to  expedite  the  process  of  docking  the 
big  boat.  A  fog  delays  it  some,  but  in  fair 
weather,  the  customs  boat  aims  to  meet  the  big 
boat,  and  do  the  inspecting  while  the  steamer 
docks. 

The  boat  landing  is  very  commonplace  as 
com])ared  to  its  sailing.  There  are  no  bands  to 
meet  it,  excepting  bauds  of  taxi  drivers,  bag- 
gagemen and  an  occasional  friend  who  has 
come  down  early  and  stood  waiting  for  an  hour; 
maybe  two.  mavbe  three  for  the  boat  to  dock. 
Our  newspaper  party  broke  up.  Hither  and 
thither  the  people  went,  never  all  to  be  together 
again.  All  were  agreed  that  the  opportunities 
of  the  trip  just  ended  had  been  unprecedented 
in  the  offering  of  interesting  things  to  see  and 
study.  None  of  the  party  had  ever  had  so  much 
crowded  into  so  short  a  time  before.  We  had 
been  a  long  distance  away  from  our  respective 
homes;  had  seen  world  wonders  in  su]^er-almnd- 
ance,  had  attended  interesting  meetings  in 
which  people  from  many  different  nations  had 
participated;  had  dined  with  governors,  gener- 
als, admirals,  mayors,  ca])tains,  consul  gener- 
als, black  people,  white  i)eo])le,  l)rown  people, 
good  natured  people,  grouchy  people  and  man}' 
other  kinds. 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  263 

It  luul  been  a  great  voyage  from  many  points 
of  view;  from  the  social,  tlie  entertaining  and 
the  educative.  Of  course  there  had  been  little 
annoyances.  The  party  was  the  usual  conglom- 
erate party.  There  were  those  who  liked  this 
and  those  who  liked  that,  and  those  who  didn't 
like  this  and  that,  but  there  was  none  who 
didn't  like  something.  There  was  no  place  on 
this  excursion  for  the  animal  wdio  never  finds 
anything  to  his  liking.  There  was  something 
here  for  everybody,  of  wdiatever  temperament. 

I  stayed  in  San  Francisco  just  long  enough 
to  make  arrangements  for  a  direct  passage 
lionie  after  making  a  short  visit  at  Palo  Alto, 
thirty  miles  out.  It  is  but  an  hour's  run  out  to 
this  little  city,  on  the  Southern  Pacific  railway, 
by  trolley  car,  or  by  motor  bus.  There  are  three 
methods  of  rapid  transportation  available  here 
at  any  hour  of  the  day.  Good  roads  make  mo- 
tor travel  a  delight  all  times  of  the  year.  I 
chose  the  railway  line  for  my  path  to  Palo  Alto, 
for  with  all  the  faults  of  the  railway  companies 
of  the  past  "I  love  them  still."  There  is  too 
much  of  a  tendency  to  "inter  the  good  they 
have  done  w^ith  their  bones," 

Even  as  I  write  we  are  rolling  across  the 
country  in  a  Santa  Fe  train  and  we  have  been 
so  rolling  for  ten  hours  and  will  roll  along  for 
twenty  more  hours  at  a  gait  of  about  forty  miles 
an  hour  through  country  stone  covered,  gray, 
dry,  barren  of  all  vegetation  excepting  some 
thin,  struggling  grass,  sage  brush  and  cacti. 
For  liundreds  and  hundreds  and  hundreds  of 
miles  you  see  nothing  that  appeals  to  an  lowan 
as  sufficient  to  justify  human  habitation.  This 
was  for  many  3'ears  the  w^orld  acknowledged 
''Great  American  Desert,"  never  in  human  his- 
tory to  be  more  than  it  was  for  many  centuries 
before  the  new  world  was  known!     It  was  the 


264 


A  TRIP  TO   THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


desperately  dry,  liot,  cacti,  prairie  dog  and  rat- 
tle snake  infested  desert  region  of  tlie  United 
States.  It  took  men  of  great  vision  to  see  clear 
across  these  once  entirely  barren  plains,  out 
into  the  more  promising  tributary  valleys  and 
over  into  a  future  that  would  link  the  east  and 
the  west  into  projects  of  industrial  development 


MR.   AND   MRS.   FRANK  C.   EDGECOMBE 

Geneva,    Nebraska 

Mr.  Edgecombe  does  not  admit  that  sightless  ,eyes 
handicap  him  in  his  work  as  editor  of  one  of  Nebraska's 
brightest  papers.  He  "saw"  the  sights  of  Hawaii 
through  his  wife's  eyes.     A  bright  pair  of  real  "folks." 

sucli  as  were  undreamed  of  save  by  those  dar- 
ing men  who  hiid  the  iron  paths  across  the 
hopelessly  dreary  desert  in  order  that  the  best 
might  be  made  of  nature's  supi)lies.  Foremost 
in  their  minds  may  have  l)een  personal  gain, 
but  it  was  a  personal  gain  that  did  not  always 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  265 

work  out,  and  wlien  it  did  woi'k  out  it  cari'ied 
with  il  i\  national  expansion  of  resources  and 
industrial  (le\'eloi)nient  that  no  human  being 
had  ever  aiitic*ii)ated. 

Now  eonies  the  motor  car.  Just  at  my 
right  out  the  window  I  see  the  Santa  Fe  trail 
and  just  as  I  wrote  tlie  above  line  another  tour- 
ist whizzed  on  toward  the  perpetually  summer 
climate  of  southern  California.  Five  passen- 
gers who  might  have  been  railway  passengers 
go  motoring  to  the  west.  We  pass  them  com- 
ing and  going  every  few  moments,  every  day. 
They  follow  the  railway  lines;  thousands  and 
thousands  of  them.  The  towns  that  the  rail- 
road built  across  the  desert  are  the  towns  where 
the  motorist  stops  at  night,  gets  his  edible  and 
motor  supplies  and  goes  on  his  way  rejoicing. 
If  the  railroad  train  were  a  jealous  animal  it 
would  certainly  hate  the  automobiles  that  go 
rollicking  by,  carrying  erstwhile  railway  pas- 
sengers. But,  the  railway  train  does  not  bite 
and  kick  at  its  new  competitor.  All  it  asks  is 
that  the  motor  car  keep  off  the  railway  track 
when  the  train  needs  it  and  all  will  be  well. 
The  motor  truck,  too,  all  over  the  country  wliere 
the  highw^ays  permit  is  beginning  to  be  a  strong 
competitor  of  the  railway  in  freight  handling. 
The  transportation  problems  of  our  country  are 
changing,  and  pretty  soon  when  we  go  hunting 
in  politics  we  may  have  to  load  our  pop  guns 
with  other  ammunition  besides  anti-railroad 
thunder.  Some  day  we  may  go  gunning  for  jit- 
nevs. 


2  66  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


At  Home 

Washington,  Iowa,   November  20,   1921 

Here  I  am  at  home  again;  have  been  home 
for  several  days.  The  old  town  is  just  the 
same;  so  are  the  old  folks.  A  seven  weeks  ab- 
sence has  not  altered  the  complexion  of  the 
landscape  much  either.  It's  a  little  cooler  at 
niohts;  the  "frost  is  on  the  pumpkin"  and  we 
are  on  the  threshold  of  winter,  but  that  is  the 
way  of  things  here  this  time  of  the  year. 

It  seems  a  long  distance  to  Honolulu,  Hilo, 
Kilauea,  Kahului,  Haleakala,  Waikiki,  Wai- 
alua.  They  are  far  away.  There  is  a  great 
stretch  of  land  and  then  a  whole  lot  of  water 
between  us.  The  wonder  to  me  is:  how  do  the 
boats  ever  find  Hawaii  f  There  is  no  beaten 
path;  no  cow  trail;  no  sign  boards,  excepting 
the  stars  of  heaven;  no  familiar  traveler  to  tell 
you  where  to  turn;  no  farm  houses  at  which  to 
inquire  the  way. 

But  every  day  Honolulu  is  "found"  de- 
spite her  isolation  in  the  vastnesses  of  tlie  Pa- 
cific, and  every  day  people  look  upon  the  won- 
ders of  those  beautiful  islands  and  marvel  over 
nature's  strange  creations.  Thousands  come 
and  go,  and  they  speak  as  they  pass,  and  they 
are  glad  that  fate  turned  their  steps  Hawaii- 
ward,  for  Hawaii  has  much  to  show  to  the 
traveler  who  loves  to  look  upon  nature's  beau- 
ties and  her  wonders. 

I  have  but  one  thing  to  be  particularly  dis- 
tressed about  since  my  return.  I  am  distrust- 
ed by  my  fellow  citizens.  At  a  I^otary  club 
meeting  a  few  evenings  ago,  one  of  my  erst- 
while friends,  one  whom  I  had  always  trusted 
and  one  whom  I  had  thought  believed  in  me 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  267 

arose  before  our  fellow  members  in  the  club  and 
cliallen,^-e(l  my  pretentions  to  having  made  the 
journey  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  He  expressed 
the  belief  that  1  had  gone  no  farther  west  in 
my  travels  than  Kansas  City,  and  that  all  I 
had  written  I  had  surreptitiously  culled  from 
library  books. 

He  charged  that  what  I  have  said,  I  have 
not  said;  that  what  I  have  seen  I  have  not 
seen;  that  what  I  have  heard  I  have  not  heard, 
and  what  I  have  written  I  have  not  written.  He 
branded  me  as  an  imposter  before  my  fellow 
members  of  this  club  and  there  the  matter 
stands  today,  excepting  that  there  are  some 
friends,  some  true  friends,-  who  come  to  me  once 
in  a  while  and  tell  me  that  they  believe  that  I 
was  farther  away  from  home  than  just  to  Kan- 
sas City  and  that  I  did  see  what  I  claim  to  have 
seen.  My  final  declaration  here  is  that  I  did 
go  to  Hawaii  and  that  I  went  with  as  fine  a 
bunch  of  people  as  it  has  ever  been  my  pleas- 
ure to  be  associated  with  and  I  know  that  if 
need  be  I  can  call  upon  several  of  the  delegates 
to  the  Press  Congress  of  the  World  to  certify 
to  the  truth  of  my  claim  to  having  been  with 
them;  for  did  I  not  smoke  of  their  cigars  and 
accept  of  their  social  courtesies  with  a  liberal 
abandon  that  must  have  impressed  my  amiable 
personality  upon  them  indelibly.  Aloha,  till  we 
meet  again. 


268  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


DELEGATES  AND  GUESTS 


In   Attendaiue   at    World's   Press   Congiess,   Honolulu, 
Hawaii,   T.,   Oct.    10   to   Nov.  2,    1921 

Agee,  Mrs.  Hamilton  P.  (Fanny  Heaslip  Lea,  pen  name), 
short  story  writer,  226  Oahu  Ave.,  Honolulu  T.  H. — 
Delegate 

Allen,  Mrs.  Henry  J..  Beacon,  Wichita,  Kansas  (tempor- 
ary address:      Topeka,   Kansas) — ^Delegate 

Allen,  Riley  H.,  Star-Bulletin,  Honolulu,  T.  H. — Delegate 

Bailey,  H.  U..  Republican,  Princeton  Illinois — Delegate 

Bailey  Mrs.  H.  U.,  Princeton,  Illinois — Guest 

Beteta,  Virgilia  Rodrigues,  Spanish  Press  Association, 
Central  American  Press  Association,  Guatemala 
City,  Gautemala  (Temporary  address:  Waldorf 
Astoria,   New   York  City) — Delegate 

Blain,  Thomas  J.,  Daily  Item,  Port  Chester,  New  York — 
Delegate 

Blain,   Mrs.  T.  J. — Port  Chester,  New   York — Guest 

Bowen,  L.  H.,  Linclon  County  Times,  Brookhaven,  Miss- 
issippi— Delegate 

Breede,  Adam,  Daily  Tribune,  Hastings,  Nebraska — 
Delegate 

Bridgman.  Herbert  L.,  Standard  Union,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 
— Delegate 

Bronson,  E.  S.,  American,  El  Reno,  Oklahoma — Delegate 

Brown,   James   Wright,    Editor    &    Publisher.   New    York 

City — Delegate 
Brown  Mrs.  James  W.,  New  York  City — Guest 

Bunker,    F.    F.,    Pan-Pacific   Union,    Honolulu,     T.     H. — 

Delegate 
Burney,  Ivan  T.,  Journal  and  Courier,  Little  Falls,  N.  Y 

— -Delegate 
Cain,  J.  Byron,  News,  Belle  Plaine,  Kansas — Delegate 

Canavan,  Mrs.  Nancy  B.,  El  Reno,  Oklahoma — Guest 

Chien,  P.   Y.,  Social  Welfare,  Tientsin,  China — Delegate 

Childress,  E.  H.,  Wayne  County  Press,  Fairfield,  Illinois 
— Delegate 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  269 


Chung,    Henry,   Korea    Review,     90  5     Continental     Trust 
Hiiilding,    Washington,    D.    C. 

Clark,  H.  J.,  Herald,  Venice,  California — Delegate 

Clark,    Mrs.    H.    J.,   Venice,    California — Guest 

Clarke,  Mrs.  Adna  G.,  Kamehameha  Boy's  School,   Hon- 
olulu,  T.    H. — Delegate 

Cody,     Frank     J.,     Daily     Post-Herald,     Hilo,     Hawaii — 
Delegate 

Cohen,  Mark,  Star,  Dunedin,  New  Zealand — 'Delegate 

Cohen,   Sarah,   Dunedin,  New  Zealand — Delegate 

Coutoupis  Thales,   Nea   Ellas,    Athens,   Greece — Delegate 

Cross,   A.   A.   Kentucky   Press   Association,   Benton,   Ken- 
tucky— Delegate 

Davies,  Herbert  Arthur,  Austrialian  Journalists  Associa- 
tion,   Melbourne,   Australia — Delegate 

Dean,     Mrs.     S.     Bobo,     Metropolis,     Miami,     Florida — 
Delegate 

Dean,  Miss  Dorothy,  Miami,  Florida — Guest 

DeRackin,   S.    E.,    Evening   Outlook,    Santa    Monica,    Cal- 
ifornia— Delegate 

DeRackin,   Mrs.   S.   E.,   Santa   Monica,   California — Guest 

Dotson,    C.    L.,    420    Riverside    Drive,    New    York    City — 
Delegate 

Dow.  B.  C,  Argus-Leader,  Sioux  Falls,   South  Dakota — 
Delegate 

Dow,  Mrs.  B.  C,  Sioux  Falls,  South  Dakota — Guest 

Dunn,  Andrew,  Morning  Bulletin,  Rockhampton,  Queens- 
land,  Australia — Delegate 

Easton,    William,    Times,    Dunedin,    New    Zealand — Del- 
egate 

Edgecombe,   Frank   O.,     Nebraska    Signal,     Geneva,    Ne- 
braska— Delegate 

Edgecombe,  Mrs.  Frank  O.,  Geneva,  Nebraska — Guest 

Elder.    Orville,    Evening    Journal,    Washington,    Iowa — • 
Delegate 

Evans,   Miss   Margaret,    520   Menzies  St.,   Victoria,    B.   C. 

Delegate 
Fogg,  Charles  H.,  Times.  Houlton,  Maine — Delegate 
Fogg,  Mrs.  Charles  H.,  Houlton,  Maine — Guest 

Ford,    Alexander    Hume,    Pan-Pacific    Union,    Honolulu, 
T.   H. — Delegate 


270  A  TRIP  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Farrington,  Wallace  R.,  Star-Bulletin,  Honolulu,  T.  H. — 
Delegate 

Frear.  Mrs.  W.  F.,  1434  Punahou  St..  Honolulu,  T.  H. — 
Delegate 

Frye,  Miss  Helen   ]\I.,  League  of  American  Pen  Women, 
Washington,   D.    C. — Guest 

Glass,   Frank   P.,   American  Newspaper  Publishers  Asso- 
ciation,   Birmingham,    Alabama — Delegate 

Glass,   Mrs.   Frank   P.,   2030   Quinlon,  Birmingham,   Ala- 
bama— Guest 

Glass,  Frank  P.  Jr..  World,  New  York  City — Delegate 

Glass.  Mrs.  Frank  P.  Jr.,  New  York  City — Guest 

Goldthwaite.    S.     G.,    News-Republican,     Boone,     Iowa — 
Delegate 

Goldthwaite,  Mrs.  S.  G.,  Boone,  Iowa — Guest 

Gordon,  Marshall,  Missouri  Press  Association,  Columbia, 
Missouri — Delegate 

Gordon,   Mrs.   Marshall,   Columbia,   Missouri — Guest 

Gresson.    W.    D.,    Miami     Republican,     Paola,     Kansas — 
Delegate 

Grisson,   Miss   Maybel    Louise,   Michigan  Women's    Press 
Association,    Grand    Ledge,    Michigan — Delegate 

Hadley,  Charles  C,  Kennett  News  and  Advertiser,  Ken- 
nett   Square,    Pennsylvania — Delegate 

Hadley,  Mrs.  Charles  C,  Kennett  Square,  Pennsylvania — 
Guest 

Hale,     H.     B.,     Gazette,     East     Hartford,     Connecticut — • 

Delegate 
Hale,  Mrs.   H.  B..  East  Hartford,  Connecticut — Guest 

Harris,  Mrs.  Ralph  A.,  Herald,  Ottawa,  Kansas — Delegate 

Heenan,    David,    Jr.,    250    Kaiulaui    Avenue,    Honolulu, 
T.  H. — .Delegate 

Herrick,    John    P.,    Boliver    Breeze,    Olean,    New    York — ■ 
Delegate 

Herrick,  Mrs.  John  P..  Olean,  New  York — Guest 

Hersey,  Miss  Mary  S.,  Milton,  Massachusetts — Guest 

Hodges,  W.   R.,  Herald-Dispatch,   Sleepy  Eye,   Minnesota 
- — Delegate 

Hornaday,  William  D..  School  of  Journalism,  University 
of  Texas,   Austin,   Texas — Delegate 

Hsu,    Jabin.   China   Press,    Shanghai,   China — Delegate 


WITH  WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  271 

lies,    Harry,    Southwest    Builder     and     Contractor,     Los 

Angeles,    California — JJelee;ate 
Innes,  Guy,  Herald,  Melbourne,  Australia — Delegate 

Innes,    Mrs.    Guy,    Melbourne,    Australia — Delegate 

Johnston,    F.    H.,   Review,    Herniosa   Beach,   California — 
Delegate 

Johnston,   Mrs.  F.  H.,   Hermosa  Beach  California — Guest 

Johnston,    Miss   W.    Valeria,    Hermosa   Beach,    California 
— Delegate 

Junkin.    J.    E.,    National    Editorial    Association,    Miami, 

Florida — Delegate 
Junkin,   Mrs.  J.    E.,  Miami,  Florida — Guest 
Kelly,   Eugene,   Tribune,   Sioux  City,   Iowa — Delegate 
Kelly,    Mrs.    Eugene,    Sioux    City,    Iowa — Guest 

Kern,    Frank    L.,   Worth   While   Magazine,    1021    S.    Ber- 
endO'   Street,   Los   Angeles,    California — Delegate 

Kettle,    William     R.,     Evening     Star.     Greymouth,     New 
Zealand — Delegate 

Kettle,  Mrs.   W.   R.,   Greymouth,  New  Zealand — Guest 

Kettle,   Miss  Vioka,   Greymouth,   New  Zealand — Guest 

Kline,    Gardiner,    Evening    Recorder,    Amsterdam,    New 

York — Delegate 
Kessell,  John   Henry,    Gladstone     Observer,     Queensland, 

Australia — Delegate 

Kessell,  Mrs.   J.   H..   Gladstone,   Queensland,  Australia — 
Guest 

Kim,   Dong-sung,  Dong-a   Daily,   Seoul,   Korea — Delegate 

Klock,   Jay  E.,  Daily  Freeman,   Kinston,   N.  Y. 

Kriegesman,  George  Wm.,  News-Times  Webster  Groves, 
Missouri — Delegate 

Langley,     Doris    H.,     Herald.    Tippecanoe     City,    Ohio — 
Delegate 

Lazo,  Augustin,  Havana  Reporters  Association,  Herald  of 
Cuba,  Havana,  Cuba — Delegate 

LeFavour,  Mrs.  Helen,  Amsterdam,  New  York — Guest 

Logan,    Daniel,    National    Magazine.    Boston,    Massachus- 
ettes — Delegate 

Lawson,   Col.    Edward   Frederick,   Daily  Telegraph,   Lon- 
don,   England — Delegate 
Lawson,   Mrs.    E.    P.,   London,   England — Guest 
Lennon,   Mrs.    C.   W.,   Sioux   City,   Iowa — Guest 


272  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Mayrand,  Oswald,  LaPresse,  Montreal,  Canada — Delegate 

Medary.    Edgar   F.,    Democrat,   Waukon.   Iowa — Delegate 

Mezquida,  Mrs.  Anna  Blake,  League  of  American  Pen 
women,  969  Pine  St.,  San  Francisco,  California — 
Delegate 

McCullough,  William.  Thames  Star,  Thames,  Auckland. 
New    Zealand — Delegate 

Mills,  Frank  M.,  On  the  Cars,  Sioux  Falls,  South  Dakota 
— ^Delegate 

Mills,  Mrs.  Frank  M.,  Sioux  Falls,  South  Dakota — Guest 

Mitchell,  Miss  Frances  C,  Centralia  (Missouri)  Courier, 
Columbia,    Missouri — Delegate 

Morris,  John  R.,  Japan  Advertiser,  Tokyo.  Japan — 
Delegate 

McAdams,   Mrs.  A.   G.,  Dallas.  Texas — Guest 

McClatchy,  V.  S.   Bee,  Sacramento,   California — Delegate 

McClatchy,  Mrs.  V.   S.,  Sacramento,  California — Guest 

McKeown,  Mrs.  Lillian,  Sun  and  Evening  Telegram,  San 
Bernardino,  California — Delegate 

McMaster,  C.  H.,  Tribune,  Galveston,  Texas — Delegate 

McMaster,  Mrs.  C.  H.,  Galveston,  Texas — Guest 

Nevin  C.  E.,  Advocate,  Laurel.  Nebraska — Delegate 

Nolen,  Miss  Anna  E.  News,  Monroe  City,  Missouri — 
Delegate 

Nieva,  Gregorio,  Philippine  Review,  Manila,  Philippine 
Islands — Delegate 

Orcutt,  Reginald  W.,  Linotype  Bulletin,  1219  Madison 
Ave.,  New  York  City — Delegate 

Orcutt,   Mrs.    Reginald   W.,   New   York    City — Guest 

Patton,  H.  W..  Special  Writer,  Hoquiam,  Washington — 
Delegate 

Perry,  Miss  Eugenie,  Canadian  Women's  Press  Club, 
Victoria,   B.   C. — Delegate 

Petrie,  Thomas,  South  China  Morning  Post,  Hongkong, 
China — Delegate 

Petrie,  Mrs.  Thomas,  Hongkong,  China — Guest 

Pierce,  Henry  Douglas.  Vinton-Pierce  Bldg.,  Indianap- 
olis,   Indiana — Delegate 

Powell,   H.  J.,  Journal,   Coffeyville,   Kansas — Delegate 

Powell,   Mrs.    H.   J.,   Coffeyville,   Kansas — Guest 


WITH   WORLD'S   PRESS   CONGRESS  273 

Reed,  Mi's.  Eniina  Livingston,  Southern  California  Wom- 
en's Press  Club,   Los   Angeles,  California — Delegate 

Richardson,  J.  A. — Sunflower  Tocsin,  Indianola,  Miss- 
issippi— Delegate 

Rhodes,  Mrs.  John  F.,  Hutchinson,  Kansas^Delegate 

Saxe,  Ludvig,  Verdens  Gang,  Christiania,  Norway — 
Delegate 

Sugimura,   K,,   Ashai   Shimbun,   Tokyo,   Japan — Delegate 
Schuler,  Mrs.  Maud,  Gadsden,  Alabama — Guest 

Shaw,  Mrs.  Mabel  S.,  Evening  Telegraph,  Dixon,  Illinois 
— Delegate 

Smith,  C.  Stanley,  Evening  Star,  Dunedin,  New  Zealand 
— Delegate 

Smith,  Mrs.  C.  Stanley,  Dunedin,  New  Zealand — Guest 

Smith,  William  J.,  Daily  Sun.  AVaukegan,  Illinois 

Soga,  Y.,  Nippu  Jiji,  P.  O.  Box  897,  Honolulu,  T.  H. — 
Delegate 

Southern,  William  Jr.,  Daily  Examiner,  Independence, 
Missouri — Delegate 

Southern,  Miss  Caroline,  Daily  Examiner,  Independence, 
Missouri — Delegate 

Stone.  John  I.,  Honolulu  Press  Club,  Honolulu,  T.  H. — 
Delegate 

Sturgis,  H.   S.,  Times,  Neosho,  Missouri — Delegate 

Sturgis,  Mrs.  H.  S.,  Neosho.  Missouri — Guest 

Temple,  Mrs.  Oda  M.,  Republican,  Mountain  Home, 
Idaho 

Thorpe,  Mrs.  George  C,  Quarters  A,  Marine  Barracks, 
Pearl    Harbor,  T.    H. — Delegate 

Tong,  Hollington  K.,  North  China  Star,  Peking,  China — 
Delegate 

Thurston,  L.   A.,  Advertiser,   Honolulu,   T.   H. — ^Delegate 

Townsend.  Mrs.  Georgina  S.,  5703  Victoria  Ave.,  Los 
Angeles,  California  (President,  Southern  California 
Women's    Press    Club) — Delegate 

Traer,  Mrs.  Louise  M.,  Eagle,  Vinton,  Iowa — Delegate 

Underbill,  Edwin  S.,  Leader,  Corning,  New  York — Del- 
egate 

Wang,  K.  P..  Shun  Pao,  Shanghai,  China — Delegate 

Wang,  T.  M.,  Shun  Pao,  Shanghai,   China — Delegate 


274  A  TRIP  TO  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Ward,  Miss  Etta  I.,  Courier,  Winchendon,  Massachusetts 
— Delegate 

Warinner,  Emily  V.,  Managing  Editor  of  The  Friend, 
Honolulu 

Warren,  Mrs.  John  Trenholm,  Honolulu  Press  Club,  Box 
769.  Honolulu,  T.   H. — Delegate 

Watts.   Arretta   L.,    Long   Beach,    California — Delegate 

Wilke,    Will,    Gazette,   Gray   Eagle,   Minnesota — Delegate 

Wilke,  Clyde  S.,  Gazette.  Gray  Eagle  Minnesota — Del- 
egate (Wilke's  present  office  address,  7  43  Plymouth 
Building,    Minneapolis.    Minnesota) 

Williams,    Walter,    Columbia,    Missouri — Delegate 

Wong,   Hin,   Star,   Canton,   China — Delegate 

Woodring,  Mrs.  Charlotte,  Journal,  Peru.  Indiana — 
Delegate 

Woods,  G.  A.,  Boomer,  El  Reno,  Oklahoma — Delegate 

Xanders,  Mrs.  Amanda  L.,  League  of  American  Pen 
women,   York,   Pennsylvania — Delegate 

Yamagata,   I.,   Press,   Seoulm,  Korea — Delegate 

Zerbey,  Maj.  J.  H.  Jr.,  Republican,  Pottsville,  Penn- 
sylvania— Delegate 

Zerbey,    Elizabeth,    Pottsville,    Pennsylvania — Guest 

Zerbey,   Mildred,   Pottsville,   Pennsylvania — Guest 

Zumoto,    Motosada,    Herald    of    Asia,    Tokyo,    Japan 


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